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JUNIPERO    SERRA,    FATHER    OF    THE    CALIFORXIA    MISSIONS. 


THE 

CHAMBER  OF  COMMERCE 

HANDBOOK 

FOR 

SAN  FRANCISCO 


Historical   and   Descriptive 


A  GUIDE  FOR  VISITORS 


Published  by  the 

San  Francisco  Chamber  of  Commerce 

under    direction    of    the 

Publicity  Committee 


Written  and  Compiled 
by 

FRANK  MORTON  TODD 


SAN     FRANCISCO 
1914 


Copyright  1914  by  the 
Francisco  Chamber  of  Commerce 


CONTENTS 

Page 

MAP  OF  SAN   FRANCISCO Inside  of  Back  Cover 

Showing  parks,  car  lines  and  different  points  of   interest. 

INTRODUCTORY   5 

SAN  FRANCISCO— HISTORICAL  SKETCH    6 

Spanish  and  English  Navigators;  Mission,  Presidio,  Pueblo; 
Gold;  the  Vigilance  Committee;  Comstock  Days;  Railroad 
Building;    Fire   and   Reconstruction;    Present   Population. 

SAN  FRANCISCO— IN  GENERAL 18 

Setting  of  San  Francisco,  and  the  Bay.     Climate. 

CUSTOMS    REGULATIONS;    MONEY 22 

BRING  NO  FRUIT  INTO  CALIFORNIA 29 

GETTING    UP    TOWN 30 

How  to  Reach  the  Hotel  Section  from  Ferry,  Dock  or  Railway 
Depot.      Taxicab,   Hack   and   Automobile   Fares   to    Hotels. 

GETTING  YOUR   BAGGAGE   UP   TOWN 31 

How  to   Avoid   Delay   and   Risk   of   Loss. 

HOTELS 32 

Quality  of  San  Francisco  Hostelries.  List  of  Fifty  of  the  best 
in  all  classes,  with  Locations,  rates  and  directions  for  reaching 
them. 

TOURIST    AGENCIES,    VALIDATING    OFFICES,    GEN- 
ERAL LOCATION  OF  TICKET  OFFICES 46 

BATHS  AND  NATATORIA 47 

Swimming  baths  and  Hammams. 

RESTAURANTS,  CAFES,  GRILLS 50 

The  Famous  French  Restaurants  of  San  Francisco.  Mexican 
and  Italian  Restaurants,  German  Grills.  The  After-Theater 
Cafes. 

WALKS  ABOUT  SAN  FRANCISCO 

I.  An  Hour's  Walk  in  the  Downtown  District,  from  Lotta's 
Fountain.  The  Diamond  Palace,  Stock  Exchange,  Impor- 
tant Buildings,  Interesting  Shops,  Union  Square,  down 
Market  Street  to  Lotta's  Fountain  again.  Heights  of  Tall 
Buildings    in    San    Francisco 59 

II.  Chinatown — the  People;  their  Manners,  Customs,  Habits, 
Character,  Religious  Worship.  Chinese  Homes,  a  Funeral, 
a  Wedding.  Bazaars,  Restaurants,  Chinese  Telephone 
Exchange,  Joss  Houses.     Chinese  Printing  Shop 67 

III.  The  Waterfront  and  Telegraph  Hill.  Shipping  from  All 
the  Oceans;  Whalers;  Literature  these  scenes  have  inspired; 
Ferry  Building:  the  Old  Grain  Sheds;  Marine  Reporting 
Station  of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce;  Fishermen's  Wharf. 
The  Panorama  of  the  whole  scene  from  the  top  of  Tele- 
graph Hill.  Back  to  the  center  of  the  city  through  the 
Latin    Quarter    83 

868948 


1 


Page 

IV.  Produce  Commission  District,  Nob  Hill  and  Russian  Hill. 
United  States  Custom  House,  Appraiser's  Building,  Old 
Mansions  of   Nob   Hill,   Fairmont   Hotel,   Russian   Hill   and 

its    fine    Views 88 

HOW  TO  SEE  SAN  FRANCISCO  BY  TROLLEY  and  Cable    91 

1 .  Nob  Hill,  Golden  Gate,  Land's  End,  Sutro  Heights,  Sutro 
Baths,  Cliff   House  and  Seal   Rocks 93 

2.  Market  Street,  Affiliated  Colleges,  and  the  Heights  Over- 
looking the  Sunset  District,  the  Golden  Gate  and  the  Pacific 
Ocean    98 

3.  Nob  Hill,  Chinatown,  Fishermen's  Wharf,  Crab  and  Fish 
Market,  North  Beach,  Latin  Quarter,  Stevenson  Monument 
Portsmouth  Square,   Hall   of  Justice 101 

4.  Presidio,  and  Exposition  Site,  by  way  of  O'Farrell  Street 
and    the    Retail    and    Apartment    House    Districts,    returning 

by  Fillmore  Street  Cable,  Nob  Hill  and  Powell  Street 105 

5.  Union  Iron  Works,  Potrero,  Islais  Creek,  Bay  View, 
Visitacion   Valley,   Returning  through  the  Mission 108 

6.  San  Mateo  and  return.  Drives  out  of  San  Mateo  to  Crystal 
Springs  Lake,  Stanford  University,  Pescadero  and  other 
points     110 

7.  Ocean  Beach  and  the  Great  Highway  via  Mission  street, 
passing  the  Mint,  Post  Office,  National  Guard  Armory, 
Mission  District.  Sutro  Forest,  and  Lake  Merced;  Return- 
ing through  Parkside  and  the  Sunset  District,  and  Mounting 

the  Slopes  of  Twin   Peaks 112 

8.  Buena  Vista  Park,  with  its  view  over  the  City,  Bay  and 
Ocean    114 

9.  By  Sight-seeing  Car  of  the  United   Railroads 115 

CHURCHES  AND  DIVINE  SERVICE 116 

How  to  Reach  Churches  of  all  leading  Denominations,  with 
Times  of  Holding  Services. 

THEATERS 127 

San  Francisco  as  a  Theater  city.  Some  Artists  whose  Stage 
Careers  began  here.  Names  and  Locations  of  the  Leading 
Theaters,  Character  of  Entertainment  offered,  and  prices. 
Public   Auditoriums. 

SIGHT-SEEING  AUTOMOBILE  CARS 131 

MONUMENTS    AND    LANDMARKS— THE     BANK     EX- 
CHANGE    131 

Donahue  Monument,  Lotta's  Fountain,  all  the  Monuments  m  the 
Parks  and  Squares;    Portsmouth  Square,  the  Montgomery  Block, 
the  Bank   Exchange  with  its  traditions  of   Bret  Harte  and   Mark 
Twain;    Where  Stevenson   studied   San   Francisco 
LONE  MOUNTAIN   AND  THE  OLD  CEMETERIES 139 

The  "Hill  of  Awe."  Cyclorama  of  the  City.  The  Necropolis, 
with  Tombs  of  famous  San  Franciscans  and  builders  of  empire 
in  the  West. 

]I 


Page 
MISSION    DOLORES    144 

Altars,  "Bells  of  the  Past,"  Former  Wealth  of  the  Mission,  the 
Cemetery  and  the  Graves  of  Governor  Arguello,  "Yankee 
Sullivan"   and  James   P.  Casey. 

GOLDEN  GATE  PARK    .;•.•• '"^^ 

Main   features   noted.   Westward   to   the  "Gjoa"   and   the   Ocean 

Beach. 
MEMORIAL  MUSEUM,  GOLDEN  GATE  PARK 156 

Character  of  the  Exhibits;   California  Painters,  and  old  Masters 

in  the  Galleries. 
INSTITUTE  OF  ART 160 

School  of   Design.      Paintings   in   the  Collection. 

MUSEUM     OF     ANTHROPOLOGY— "MAN     AND     HIS 
WORKS" 161 

Primitive  Man.  Distribution  of  the  California  Indian  Tribes. 
Free  Lectures.  Grecian,  Egyptian  and  Peruvian  Remains.  A 
Contemporary    "Uncontaminated    Savage." 

CALIFORNIA  DEVELOPMENT  BOARD   164 

Exhibit  Hall  and  Free  Lecture  Room.  Finest  California  Fruits 
on  Display.  Large  Relief  Map  of  the  State.  Literature  Mailed 
on    Request. 

STATE  MINING  BUREAU 166 

Large  and  Beautiful  Mineral  Collection.  Models  of  Mills  and 
Mines. 

UNITED  STATES  MINT 167 

How    Money    is    Coined    in    the    Leading    Mining    State.      Private 
Coining. 

POST   OFFICE    BUILDING— UNITED    STATES    COURT 

HOUSE    171 

Most  Ornate  Post  Office  building  in  the  Country.  Postal 
Statistics. 

HALL  OF  JUSTICE 172 

Criminal   Courts,    Police   Headquarters,   Model   City   Prison. 

CIVIC  CENTER 175 

Future  Home  of  City  and  County  Offices;  City  Hall,  Opera 
House,    Auditorium,    Library   and   State    Building. 

PANAMA-PACIFIC  EXPOSITION  177 

MARKETS 180 

Products  of  the  Locality.     Food  Distribution.     Colombo  Market. 

FLOWER  VENDING  ON  THE  SIDEWALKS 182 

LINCOLN   PARK  AND   FORT  MILEY 184 

The  old  City  Cemetery.  Chinese  Mortuary  Chapels.  A  Superb 
View  of  the  Golden  Gate  and  Western  Part  of  the  City. 

FORT  MASON  AND  THE  TRANSPORT  DOCKS 188 

Beauties  of  Black  Point.  Largest  General  Quartermaster's 
Supply  Depot  in  the  Country.     Sailing  Days  of  the  Troopships. 

ALCATRAZ   ISLAND    189 

"The  Rock."     The  Prison  and  the  Lighthouse. 

Ill 


Page 

SAN  FRANCISCO  IN  BOOKS 190 

Famous  Writers  that  have  Developed  here,  and  Translated  the 
Spirit   of    the    Locality    into    Literature.      History. 

LIBRARIES 192 

Public,  Mechanics-Mercantile,  French,  Polish,  Mining,  Tabard 
Inn,  Booklovers',   Paul  Elder's. 

BOOK  STORES,  NEW  AND  OLD 198 

Where  French,  German,  Spanish  and  Italian  Books  can  be  had. 
Elder's,   Robertson's. 

THE  PRESS 199 

Some  Distmguished  Journalists  whose  careers  began  here. 

BANKS  AND  FINANCE  203 

Financial  Strength  of  the  City.  Beauty  of  some  of  the  Bank 
Buildmgs. 

SOME  FRATERNAL  AND  ASSOCIATION  BUILDINGS..  208 
Masonic  Temple  buildmg,  and  others. 

EDUCATIONAL   FACILITIES 210 

Heavy  State  disbursements  for  Education.  The  Public  School 
System. 

UNIVERSITIES  AND  COLLEGES   212 

Professional  Schools  in  San  Francisco.  Great  Universities  close 
at  hand. 

HOSPITALS  AND  SANATORIA 218 

Modern   Institutions  of  the  Rebuilt  City. 

TELEGRAPH  AND  CABLE  OFFICES 221 

SAN  FRANCISCO'S  PRINCIPAL  STEAMSHIP  CONNEC- 
TIONS       222 

CLUBS  AND  SOCIETIES    223 

Leading  Social  Organizations:  Bohemian  Club  and  the  Grove 
Play;  Commonwealth  Club  and  Political  Research;  Camera 
Club  and  Photographic  Facilities;  Sierra  Club  and  Mountaineer- 
ing Information. 

COMMERCIAL  ORGANIZATIONS    231 

Chamber  of  Commerce  and  the  Grain  Pit. 

SPORTS 233 

Salmon  Fishing  at  the  Golden  Gate.  Steelhead  Fishing  near 
San  Francisco.  Fly  Casting,  Hunting,  Trap  Shooting,  Base- 
ball, Football,  Cricket,  Track  and  Field  Athletics,  Yachting, 
Rowing,  Harness  Racing,  Horseback  Riding,  Winter  Polo, 
Year  'Round  Golf  and  Tennis,  Mountaineering  from  San 
Francisco. 

ROUND  ABOUT  SAN  FRANCISCO 253 

EXCURSIONS   ON   THE   BAY 254 

FERRY  LINES,  BAY  AND  RIVER  STEAMBOATS 254 

CITIES  OF  THE  EAST  SHORE 257 

IV 


Page 

KEY  TROLLEY  TRIP  262 

PIEDMONT  PARK  AND  THE  HAVENS  ART  COLLEC- 
TION     263 

BERKELEY,  THE  UNIVERSITY,  THE  HEARST  GREEK 
THEATER    265 

Scenic  Ride,  the  Christian  Science  Church. 

RICHMOND,  A  NEW  INDUSTRIAL  GROWTH 269 

SAN   LEANDRO  AND   LAKE   CHABOT 263 

SAUSALITO,   FORT   BAKER  AND   FORT   BARRY 270 

MT.  TAMALPAIS  AND  MUIR  WOODS 275 

MARIN  AND  SONOMA  COUNTIES 280 

The    Triangle    Trip.       Santa    Rosa    and    the    Home    Farm    of 
Luther  Burbank.     Russian  River.     Inverness  and  Tomales  Bay. 

MARE  ISLAND  NAVY  YARD 285 

UP  THE   NAPA   VALLEY 286 

Typical   California   Wine  Country.      The    Petrified   Forest. 

NETHERLANDS  ROUTE  UP  THE  SACRAMENTO  RIVER  288 

Bay  and  River  Scenery.     Longest  Wire  Span  in   the  World. 

RIVER,    RAIL   AND    RIVER,    TO    SACRAMENTO    AND 
STOCKTON    292 

SAN  JOSE  AND  THE  SANTA  CLARA  VALLEY 294 

MT.  HAMILTON  AND  THE  LICK  OBSERVATORY 296 

DOWN   THE  OCEAN   SHORE 298 

SANTA  CRUZ  AND  ITS  BIG  TREES 299 

DEL   MONTE,  MONTEREY,   PACIFIC  GROVE 300 

SAN  JUAN  BAUTISTA,  MOST  INTERESTING  OF  THE 
MISSIONS   303 

YOSEMITE  306 

BIG  TREES  OF  CALIFORNIA  309 

LAKE  TAHOE,  AND  DESOLATION  VALLEY 311 

The    Wondrous    Mountain    Lake.       The    Garden    of    Granite. 

AUTOMOBILING  IN  AND  FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO 315 

TAXICAB  AND  AUTOMOBILE  RATES 336 

STREET  CAR  ROUTES 337 


Waters,  photo. 
LLOYD    LAKE    AND    THE    "PORTALS    OF    THE    PAST,"    GOLDEN    GATE 

PARK. 


m^ 


Historical  Sketch 


IN  THE  BEGINNING. 

Born  a  drowsy  Spanish  hamlet,  fed  on  the  intoxicants  of  a 
gold  rush,  developed  by  an  adventurous  commerce  and  a 
baronial  agriculture,  isolated  throughout  its  turbulent  history 
from  the  home  lands  of  its  diverse  peoples  and  compelled  to 
the  outworking  of  its  own  ethical  and  social  standards,  San 
Francisco  has  evolved  an  individuality  and  a  versatility 
beyond  any  other  American  city. 

It  mellowed  the  Puritan  and  disciplined  the  Cavalier.  It 
appropriated  the  song  and  art  of  the  Latin.  Every  good  thing 
that  Anglo-Saxon,  Celt,  Gaul,  Iberian,  Teuton  or  Mongolian 
had  to  offer  it  seized  upon  and  made  part  of  its  life. 

San  Francisco  is  today  peculiarly  the  cosmopolitan  city. 
Because  its  social  elements  are  still  so  near  their  equal  sources, 
and  opportunity  still  beckons  every  man  of  talent,  it  is  also 
the  democratic  city.  And  in  spiritual  freedom  and  forward 
impulse  and  the  vivid  hope  of  great  achievement  it  is  the  one 
renaissance  city  of  the  present  day. 

Here  is  no  thraldom  to  the  past,  but  a  trying  of  all  things 
on  their  merits,  and  a  searching  of  every  proposal  or  estab- 
lished institution  by  the  one  test:  Will  it  make  life  happier? 

It  is  to  help  the  visitor  understand,  appreciate  and  enjoy 
this  debonair  metropolis  with  its  surpassingly  beautiful  en- 
virons that  this  handbook  is  issued.  We  know  that  you  will 
find  here  what  you  never  found  and  never  can  find  elsewhere. 
We  shall  try  to  augment  your  pleasure  in  it  by  indicating 
something  of  its  origin  in  the  city's  romantic  past.  We  shall 
give  you  your  bearings,  in  time  and  place.  We  shall  en- 
deavor to  show  you  the  way,  and  smooth  it  for  you  too.  We 
shall  tell  you  what  to  seek  and  how  to  find  it,  and  possibly 
what  it  may  mean  when  you  have  found  it.  In  short,  we 
shall  try  to  make  you  see  why  San  Francisco  is  "the  city  loved 
around  the  world,"  and  by  its  own  people  best  of  all. 


Handboolf  for  San  Francisco 


SAN  FRANCISCO— HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 

So  vital  to  operations  in  the  Pacific  is  the  port  of  San  Fran- 
cisco that  it  became  an  objective  of  international  strategy  nearly 
a  century  and  a  half  ago.  The  need  was  recognized  long 
before  the  bay  w^as  known,  for  the  harbor  was  then  uncharted, 
and  its  name  belonged  to  that  outer  indentation  of  the  coast 
now  called  the  Gulf  of  the  Farallones,  stretchirg  from  Point 
San  Pedro  on  the  south  to  Point  Reyes  on  the  north,  and 
including  the  cove  where  Drake  careened  his  vessel,  to  the 
northward  of  the  Golden  Gate. 

In  the  North  Pacific  the  dawn  of  civilization  was  slow. 
The  dim  light  of  the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth  centuries  shows 
us  the  shadowy  sails  of  the  yearly  treasure  galleon  bound  from 
Acapulco  to  Manila  and  sailing  down  the  California  coast 
on  its  return,  a  few  English  privateers  lying  in  wait  for  it, 
and  little  else  on  that  whole  waste  of  water. 

The  galleon  needed  a  port  of  call,  and  in  1  769  Jose  de 
Galvaez,  Spain's  "visitador"  in  Mexico,  knowing  the  Rus- 
sians were  coming  down  from  the  north  and  hearing  rumors 
cf  English  and  French  approaching  from  the  east,  determined 
on  an  active  campaign  for  colonizing  the  coast  of  California, 
and  especially  that  Bahia  de  Puerto  de  San  Francisco  which 
Vizcaino  had  mapped  by  that  name  in   1  603. 

San  Francisco  still  occupies  its  vital  position  in  relation 
to  trade  routes.  If  we  substitute  Panama  for  Acapulco,  and 
full-powered  steam  vessels,  capable  of  bucking  headwinds, 
for  the  unwieldy  sailing  craft  of  old,  we  can  appreciate  to 
what  degree  this  city  is  the  key  to  the  commerce  of  the  Pacific; 
for  it  lies  so  close  to  the  Great  Circle  route  from  Panama  to 
Yokohama,  Nagasaki,  Shanghai,  Hong  Kong  and  the  Straits 
that  to  drop  in  at  this  port  lengthens  the  run  between  Panama 
and  Yokohama  by  only  1 63  nautical  miles,  an  inconsiderable 
matter  in  a  total  of  7650. 

DISCOVERY   OF    SAN    FRANCISCO    BAY. 

Several  expeditions  were  dispatched  northward,  to  estab- 
lish stations.      One  of  these,  under  command  of  Don  Gaspar 


Historical  Sketch 


de  Portola,  governor  of  the  Californias,  left  San  Diego  in 
July,  1 769,  bound  overland  for  Monterey,  but  overshot  it 
and  fetched  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  instead. 

It  was  November.  The  rains  had  begun.  The  expedi- 
tion had  been  nearly  four  months  on  the  march.  It  had  been 
scourged  by  famine  and  scurvy.  Provisions  were  down  to 
acorns.  Portola  himself  was  ill.  In  poor  condition  the  party 
lingered  a  few  days  in  the  vicinity  of  San  Francisquito  creek, 
where  Stanford  University  now  stands,  while  Sergeant  Jose 
Francisco  Ortega,  chief  of  scouts,  explored  the  country  to 
the  northward  and  thus  was  probably  the  first  white  man  to 
see  the  Golden  Gate ;  which  appears,  until  then,  to  have  been 
remarkable  mainly  for  the  list  of  great  discoverers  that  had 
sailed  by  without  discovering  it. 

Five  years  later,  1  775,  Don  Juan  Manuel  Ayala,  Lieu- 
tenant of  Frigate  of  the  Royal  Navy,  sailed  the  packet  San 
Carlos,  otherwise  the  Toison  de  Oro  or  Golden  Fleece,  into 
the  Gulf  of  the  Farallones,  as  the  roadstead  outside  the  heads 
was  called,  looking  for  that  Port  of  San  Francisco  which  Viz- 
caino had  mapped  in  1603  and  Drake  had  visited  in  1579, 
and  on  August  5th  poked  his  bowsprit  into  the  Golden  Gate, 
the  first  of  all  the  Argonauts  of  the  western  world. 

The  following  year,  1  776,  a  land  expedition  commanded 
by  Col.  Juan  Bautista  de  Anza,  arrived  on  the  peninsula  and 
here  located  the  Presidio  of  San  Francisco  and  the  Mission 
Dolores,  as  it  was  called  from  the  little  creek  nearby — the  Mis- 
sion of  St.  Francis  of  Assissi.  The  next  year  the  venerable 
presidente  of  the  missions  of  upper  California,  Padre  Junipero 
Serra,  arrived,  and  inspected  and  blessed  the  work. 

The  Spanish  plan  of  colonization  had  three  departments; 
the  religious,  the  military  and  the  civil ;  which  were  represented 
respectively  by  the  Mission,  the  Presidio  and  the  Pueblo.  The 
Pueblo  they  called  Yerba  Buena,  after  a  medicinal  trailing  vine 
supposed  by  the  Spanish  to  facilitate  the  advent  of  fresh  popu- 
lation. 


Handhool(  for  San  Francisco 


T       '^<^OMA"|fe 


THE   BASLV   OF   SAN    i- liA.NL  laC  U    H.W. 


Historical  Sketch 


In  1 802  there  were  800  Indiaris  at  the  Mission.  In  the 
main,  they  were  an  unpromising  breed  and  have  utterly  dis- 
appeared. 

In  1 822  Mexico,  with  California,  became  independent  of 
Spain.  In  1  835  Governor  Figueroa  declared  the  Embarcadero 
of  Yerba  Buena  a  port  of  entry,  though  it  was  than  only  a 
"landing  place  for  fishermen  and  hide  droghers,"  with  a  tent 
which  belonged  to  the  harbor  master,  Capt.  W.  A.  Richardson. 

Such  were  the  beginnings  of  San  Francisco.  The  year  of 
the  dedication  of  the  Mission  and  the  founding  of  the  Presidio 
was  the  year  of  the  Declaration  of  American  Independence. 
The  Pacific  Ocean  was  an  unbounded  waste.  Capt.  Cook 
had  not  yet  made  the  English  discovery  of  the  Hawaiian 
Islands.  There  were  no  settlements  of  any  size  on  this  coast 
south  of  Alaska.  Lewis  and  Clarke  had  not  begun  their 
work,  and  there  was  no  Oregon,  no  state  of  Washington,  and 
no  British  Columbia.  As  far  as  the  concerns  of  white  people 
go,  there  was  no  Japan.  China  still  slept,  and  practically  the 
whole  commerce  of  the  Pacific  consisted  of  the  galleon  which, 
once  a  year,  passed  between  Acapulco  and  Manila.  After 
the  time  of  Portola  we  hear  no  more  of  that. 

THE   COVETED   PORT. 

Again  in  the  eighteen-forties,  San  Francisco  became  an 
objective  of  international  strategy.  Small  as  the  settlement 
was  at  that  time,  the  bay  was  a  coveted  prize  in  the  feebk 
hands  of  the  infant  Mexican  republic. 

Russia  had  retired  up  the  coast,  but  England  and  France 
sent  expeditions  by  sea  that  looked  dangerous.  At  the  oppor- 
tune time  the  United  States  stepped  in  as  Spain  had  done 
before.  Fremont  had  traversed  the  territory  with  an  "explor- 
ing expedition"  and  was  at  Klamath  Lake  in  Oregon;  Com- 
modore Sloat  was  at  Monterey  with  frigate  "Savannah,"  and 
Capt.  Montgomery  was  in  San  Francisco  Bay  with  the  sloop- 
crf^war  "Portsmouth.'*  ' 


10  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

Fremont  and  his  party  marched  down  to  Sonoma,  where 
the  Bear  Flag  was  raised  and  independence  declared. 

With  Kit  Carson,  Lieut.  Gillespie  and  a  small  party,  Fre- 
mont crossed  the  bay  and  spiked  the  guns  at  the  Presidio. 
Sloat  raised  the  American  flag  at  Monterey,  and  Montgomery 
landed  a  party  from  the  "Portsmouth"  and  performed  the 
same  function  in  the  Plaza  at  Yerba  Buena,  July  8,   1846. 

From  the  last  mentioned  event  the  Plaza  has  smce  been 
called  Portsmouth  Square. 

In  1847  Washington  Bartlett,  the  first  American  Alcalde, 
or  mayor  and  judge,  learning  that  another  settlement  was  to 
be  started  farther  up  the  bay  under  the  name  of  Francesca, 
after  General  Vallejo's  wife,  and  fearing  some  loss  of  pres- 
tige to  his  city  thereby,  declared  it  was  time  to  drop  the  mean- 
ingless name  of  Yerba  Buena  and  call  the  young  metropolis 
San  Francisco.  Much  was  in  a  name.  The  founders  of 
"Francesca"  were  forced  to  change  their  plans,  and  took  the 
lady's  other  name,  Benicia ;  and  the  ships  that  cleared  for 
San  Francisco  Bay  naturally  dropped  anchor  before  the  city 
that  bore  the  harbor's  designation. 

THE    AWAKENING. 

California  was  ceded  to  the  United  States  in  1 848.  In 
March  of  that  year  San  Francisco  had  about  820  people,  200 
houses,  a  school,  a  newspaper,  and  two  wharves.  A  fifty- 
vara  lot  (137|/2  feet  square)  north  of  Market  street  could 
be  obtained  by  alcalde  grant  for  $  1 6,  which  included  re- 
cording fees.  South  of  Market  street  a  1 00-vara  lot  could 
be  had  for  $29. 

Within  two  years  there  were  over  20,000  people  in  the 
city,  and  there  were  three  daily  papers,  seven  churches,  two 
theatres  and  a  jail.  Steamers  were  running  on  the  bay,  and 
charging  twenty  dollars  to  take  a  passenger  to  Sacramento. 
By  July  over  200  square  rigged  vessels  had  come  into  port. 
Within  seven  and  one-half  months  697  vessels  arrived.  Many 
were  driven  on   the  beach   and  abandoned.      The   whalemen 


Historical  SIfetch 


had  to  quit  San  Francisco  for  Honolulu  for  fear  of  losing 
their  crews.  Some  of  the  deserted  ships  became  hotels  and 
nineteen  were  used  for  warehouses.  Commercially  the  city 
had  leaped  to  the  importance  of  Philadelphia. 

It  was  as  though  the  giant  voice  of  some  primeval  world 
force,  with  all  the  winds  of  ocean  back  of  it,  had  thundered 
"Sleep  no  more!"  Indeed,  with  the  breakfast  eggs  at  a  dollar 
apiece,  cot  beds  at  five  dollars  a  night,  and  labor  at  twenty 
dollars  a  day,  nobody  could  afford  to  sleep. 

In  1849  $2,000,000  in  gold  was  exported  and  the  same 
amount  in  goods  and  coin  came  back.  Gold  had  been  dis- 
covered at  Coloma,  in  what  is  now  ELI  Dorado  county,  on  Jan- 
uary 1 9th,  1 848,  and  by  the  following  fall  the  rush  was  on 
from  all  over  the  world,  bringing  men  of  all  sorts  and  classes 
— except  the  timid  and  the  poor  in  spirit. 

The  noblest  natures  and  the  scum  of  the  earth  found  them- 
selves cheek  by  jowl  m  the  same  community.  For  a  time  there 
were  neither  social,  religious  nor  legal  restraints,  no  institutions 
of  any  kind  to  fit  or  provide  for  such  conditions ;  nothing 
but  a  general  notion  on  the  part  of  most  people  that  order 
and  equity  ought  to  prevail,  and  that  robbery  and  violence  did. 

Within  a  few  months  there  were  a  hundred  unpunished 
murderers.  Then  the  Vigilance  Committee  hanged  four  men, 
beginning  in  June  of  '5  I  with  John  Jenkins,  who  had  robbed 
a  store,  and  following  in  July  and  August  with  Stuart,  Whit- 
aker  and  McKenzie.  By  1856  civil  authority  was  better  or- 
ganized, but  the  city  had  fallen,  largely,  into  worse  hands, 
so  that  the  necessity  for  an  assertion  of  the  moral  character 
of  the  community  seemed  even  more  imperative.  With  the 
shooting  of  the  editor  of  the  Bulletin,  James  King  of  William, 
who  was  regarded  as  the  popular  defender  of  righteousness, 
by  James  P.  Casey,  an  ex-convict  from  Sing  Sing,  and  Super- 
visor of  the  City  and  County,  the  Vigilance  Committee  was 
reorganized,  under  the  leadership  of  William  T.  Coleman,  a 
merchant,   and  proceeded  to  clean  things  up  in  such  manner 


1 2  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

that  San  Francisco  was  a  model  of  municipal  purity  for  the 
next  twenty  years. 

The  Committee  had  no  legal  authority.  But  it  organized 
nearly  5,000  men,  on  a  military  plan,  with  regiments  and 
companies  of  infantry,  artillery  and  dragoons;  it  seized  arms 
from  the  state;  it  fortified  the  two-story  brick  building  known 
as  the  Truitt  block,  at  2 1 5  Sacramento  street,  using  gunny 
bags  filled  with  sand  as  a  barricade,  posted  sentinels  who  ad- 
mitted no  one  except  on  password,  held  secret  deliberations, 
issued  warrants,  summonses  and  other  processes,  sent  out 
its  officers  and  made  arrests,  and  maintained  a  jail  on  the 
second  floor  of  its  improvised  fort  for  the  accused  criminals 
awaiting  trial  by  its  juries. 

The  motto  on  its  seal  read:  "No  Creed,  No  Party,  No 
Sectional  Issues,"  and  for  three  months  it  gave  law  to  the  city. 

ESTABLISHING   ORDER. 

The  Committee's  first  decisive  act  was  to  march  to  the 
county  jail,  plant  a  brass  cannon  in  front  of  the  door,  and  de- 
mand the  person  of  Casey.  The  sheriff  delivered  him  up. 
In  the  jail  was  Charles  Cora,  a  gambler,  who  was  awaiting 
re-trial  for  killing  a  United  States  marshal ;  having  secured  a 
disagreement  at  his  first  trial  largely  through  the  influence 
of  Col.  E.  D.  Baker,  his  attorney,  afterward  killed  at  Ball's 
Bluff  in  the  Civil  War.  The  citizen  army  took  Cora,  too.  It 
held  these  men  until  James  King  of  William  died,  and  on  the 
day  of  his  funeral.  May  22,  1856,  hanged  them  from  the 
upper  story  of  Fort  Cunn\)bags,  in  view  of  thousands  of  people 
who  crowded  the  house-tops  and  the  hills  nearby  to  see  it. 

During  its  brief  control  of  affairs  the  Committee  banished 
thirty  undesirable  citizens,  and  800  more  thought  they  had 
better  leave  of  their  own  accord. 

On  July  29,  1856,  Hetherington  and  Brace  were  hanged 
and  the  activities  of  the  Committee  began  to  subside.  It  never 
disbanded,  although  it  brought  its  labors  to  a  close  with  a 
grand  public  celebration. 


Historical  Sl^etch  1  3 


THE   CIVIL  WAR. 

Among  the  citizens  of  the  new  state,  poHtics  were  tur- 
bulent from  the  first.  Out  of  the  hot  contention  between  Brod- 
erick  and  Gwin  for  a  United  States  Senatorship  grew  the 
famous  duel  between  Senator  Broderic^  and  Judge  Terry. 
It  was  fought  just  over  the  line  in  San  Mateo  county,  and 
resulted  in  Broderick's  death.  Popular  sentiment  immediately 
canonized  him  as  the  exponent  of  Free  Soil  principles,  for  the 
slavery  question  was  becoming  acute  and  Broderick  had  been 
among  those  that  contended  against  slavery  in  California. 

As  the  drama  led  up  to  the  climax  of  the  Civil  War, 
efforts  to  draw  California  into  secession  became  more  and 
more  determined,  but  were  defeated  largely  through  the  elo- 
quence and  tact  of  a  Unitarian  clergyman,  Thomas  Starr 
King,  of  Boston  and  San  Francisco. 

King  was  a  man  of  culture,  and  among  a  people  materially 
prosperous  and  intellectually  starved  he  was  soon  in  demand, 
up  and  down  the  state,  as  a  lecturer  on  literary  and  philosoph- 
ical themes.  He  took  advantage  of  the  opportunity  to  weave 
into  his  discussions  sound  unionist  and  free  labor  doctrines, 
and  did  it  with  so  much  convincing  clearness  and  fair-minded 
moderation,  that  he  probably  contributed  more  than  any  other 
one  man  to  keeping  California  firm  for  the  Union.  His  grave, 
in  front  of  the  church  at  Franklin  and  Geary  streets,  is  one 
of  the  city's  proudest  relics. 

Though  distant  from  the  theater  of  the  war,  San  Fran- 
ciscans had  early  been  familiar  with  names  that  became  famous 
in  that  struggle.  In  1853  Sherman  swam  ashore  from  a  wreck 
and  became  the  San  Francisco  representative  of  a  St.  Louis 
banking  house.  Farragut  was  at  Mare  Island  when  the  Vigi- 
lantes were  up.  Hooker  owned  a  ranch  m  Sonoma  county, 
and  with  Stoneman  had  made  an  unsuccessful  effort  to  run 
a  sawmill  at  Bodega  bay.  Fremont  had  a  ranch  in  Mari- 
posa county.  Halleck,  Shields  and  Col.  E.  D.  Baker  prac- 
ticed law  in  San   Francisco.     McPherson    was    stationed    on 


Handboolf  for  San  Francisco 


Alcatraz  island  during  the  early  period  of  the  war.  Lander, 
Buell,  Ord,  Keyes,  Heintzelman,  Sumner,  Hancock,  Stone, 
Porter,  Boggs,  Grant  and  Albert  Sidney  Johnston  had  all 
been  on  the  coast  at  various  times. 

As  the  Spanish  war  emphasized  the  need  of  a  canal  at 
Panama,  so  the  Civil  War  before  it  called  attention  to  the 
isolation  of  the  Pacific  Coast,  and  the  need  of  a  railroad  to 
connect  it  with  the  East.  A  young  Connecticut  engineer  named 
Theodore  D.  Judah  had  been  called  to  California  to  build 
a  line  from  Sacramento  to  Placerville.  The  grandeur  of  vision 
that  seems  to  enchant  the  West  came  upon  him  and  he  dreamed 
of  a  railroad  across  a  continent.  The  dream  seized  Leland 
Stanford,  Collis  P.  Huntington,  Mark  Hopkins,  and  Charles 
and  E.  B.  Crocker.  They  asked  great  grants  from  Congress, 
and  the  hard  logic  of  the  war  came  to  their  aid.  On  July 
31,  1862,  Congress  passed  the  Pacific  Railroad  bill.  Ground 
was  broken  in  January,  1  863.  They  built  forty  miles  of  snow- 
sheds  in  the  mountains  and  they  carted  water  across  the  des- 
ert. In  one  place  they  had  to  haul  their  rails  740  miles  by 
wagon.  But  they  made  it,  and  drove  the  last  spike  at  Prom- 
ontory, in  Utah,  on  May  10,   1869. 

The  blows  of  the  silver  sledge  on  the  spike  of  gold  were 
repeated,  stroke  for  stroke,  on  a  big  bell  at  the  City  Hall  in 
San  Francisco.  The  road  did  not  reach  this  city  until  some 
lime  afterward,  but  the  effect  was  to  link  California  to  the 
nation  indissolubly,  and  the  jubilation  of  the  city  was  just 
as  enthusiastic  as  though  it  had  immediately  become  the  west- 
ern terminus. 

Telegraph  communication  with  the  Eastern  States  was  estab- 
lished in   1  862. 

COMSTOCK  DAYS. 

A  wonderful  phase  of  San  Francisco  life  and  one  that  left 
an  indelible  mark  on  local  character  was  connected  with  the 
development  of  the  mines  in  Nevada.  In  1859  a  Canadian 
ex-trapper  and  fur  trader  named  Comstock,  widely  known 
as  "Old  Pancake"   from  his   fondness  for  that  article  of  diet 


Historical  Sketch  15 


and  his  notorious  inability  to  bake  a  good  specimen  of  it, 
stumbled  on  a  quartz  deposit  on  the  side  of  Mount  Davidson 
in  the  Washoe  range.  He  did  not  discover  it.  The  Comstock 
lode  appears  to  have  been  discovered  by  a  couple  of  Irishmen 
named  O'Reilly  and  McLaughlin,  but  Comstock  argued  them 
out  of  a  share  of  it  and  gave  his  name  to  the  lode.  When  the 
news  got  abroad  there  followed  the  greatest  mining  frenzy 
ever  known,  and  one  that  has  not  yet  entirely  subsided.  Within 
thirty  years  the  Comstock  mines  produced  $350,000,000  worth 
of  bullion  and  paid  $130,000,000  in  dividends,  mainly  to  San 
Francisco  share-holders. 

This  city  was  the  focal  point  of  the  fever,  although  it  in- 
fested the  world.  California  passed  through  its  early  gold 
mining  days  without  a  stock  exchange,  for  placer  mining  was  a 
"poor  man's  game"  and  required  little  capital;  but  shortly 
after  the  development  of  the  Comstock  began,  the  Stock  and 
Exchange  Board  was  instituted  in  San  Francisco  to  facilitate 
the  floating  of  mining  companies  and  to  regulate  dealings  in 
their  shares.  This  was  in  1862.  It  was  a  necessary  pro- 
vision against  irresponsibility  and  wholesale  fraud,  and  yet  the 
dealings  soon  took  on  the  most  violent  phases  of  the  specu- 
lating mania,  and  the  whole  community  became  involved,  from 
the  "tin-horn  sport"  to  the  clergyman,  from  the  washerwoman 
to  the  banker. 

Before  the  end  of  1861  nearly  one  hundred  companies  had 
been  formed.  By  1876  there  were  three  stock  exchanges,  all 
thriving.  Violent  fluctuations  of  the  stock  list  could  be  pro- 
duced by  manipulated  news  and  crooked  tips  from  mining 
operations  that  were  going  on  beyond  the  state  line  and  a 
thousand  feet  underground.  Giants  fought,  and  financially 
slew  one  another,  for  control  of  different  mines.  Discoveries 
of  "bonanzas,"  or  rich  deposits,  caused  immense  jumps  in  price 
in  a  few  hours.  At  one  time  the  aggregate  paper  values, 
as  quoted  on  the  stock  market,  ran  over  $700,000,000. 

Millionaires  were  made  overnight.  Strong  banks  were 
founded  in  the  city  to  finance  the   mining  and   milling.      Men 


16  Handbooff  for  San  Francisco 

arose  to  financial  power  who  had  a  bold  grasp  of  affairs,  and  a 
startling  breadth  of  view,  combined  with  an  intense  love  for 
the  city  where  they  had  made  their  wealth,  and  the  brightest 
dreams  of  its  future  power  and  beauty. 

They  lavished  money  on  such  enterprises  as  the  Palace 
Hotel.  They  and  the  railroad  magnates  crowned  Nob  Hill 
with  palaces  whose  walls  were  hung  with  the  costliest  tapes- 
tries and  the  most  beautiful  paintings,  whose  teak  and  ebony 
finishings  were  inlaid  with  mother-of-pearl  and  ivory,  and  which 
made  the  name  of  that  bit  of  hill-top  renowned  all  over  the 
world. 

In  1872  there  occurred  a  slump  in  stocks  in  which  prices 
dropped  $60,000,000  in  ten  days.  There  was  a  general 
rally  of  the  list,  and  another  decline,  in  1875,  of  $100,000,- 
000,  of  which  $42,000,000  was  lost  in  a  single  week. 

Gradually  the  excitement  subsided,  to  flame  up  again  fit- 
fully in  1  886  and  then  fall  away  once  more.  But  the  com- 
munity had  lived  so  long  in  an  atmosphere  of  enchantment  that 
the  glamour  of  those  days  has  but  increased  with  time,  and 
the  real  San  Franciscan  feels  that  his  city  has  passed  through 
the  golden  romance  that  makes  others  commonplace  by  con- 
trast. 

Among  the  memorable  names  of  the  time  are  those  of  the 
"Big  Four"  that  built  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad — Hunt- 
ington, Hopkins,  Stanford  and  Crocker;  and  the  battling 
giants  of  the  Comstock — Mackay  &  Fair,  Flood  &  O'Brien, 
Alvinza  Hayward,  D.  O.  Mills,  Adolph  Sutro,  United  States 
Senators  Stewart,  Jones  and  Sharon  (Fair  also  was  a  United 
Slates  Senator),  W.  C.  Ralston,  E.  J.  Baldwin;  and  James 
R.  Keene,  who  until  his  death  in  January,  1913,  was  one  of 
dominant  figures  of  the  Wall  Street  market. 

DEVASTATION  AND  RECOVERY. 

The  census  of  1 900  gave  San  Francisco  a  population  of 
342,782.     That  of  1910  raised  it  to  416,912,  a  gain  of  over 


Historical  Sketch  1  7 


2  1  per  cent  in  a  decade ;  and  between  the  two  counts  the  city 
suffered  the  greatest  fire  of  which  modern  men  have  any  knowl- 
edge. 

The  conflagration  of  April  18th  to  21st,  1906,  burned  497 
city  blocks,  or  four  square  miles,  out  of  the  heart  of  the  city. 
From  the  Embarcadero,  between  the  foot  of  Taylor  street 
and  the  foot  of  Howard,  it  swept  southwestward  to  Van  Ness 
avenue,  got  a  block  beyond,  from  Clay  to  Sutter,  jumped  Van 
Ness  again  between  Golden  Gate  avenue  and  Page  street 
and  burned  three  blocks  westward,  and  at  the  same  time 
swept  the  populous  area  south  of  Market  street  as  far  south- 
east as  Townsend,  and  as  far  southwest  as  Dolores  and 
Twentieth. 

Twenty-eight  thousand  buildings  were  destroyed  in  three 
days.  The  railroads  carried  two  hundred  thousand  people 
out  of  town.  The  whole  business  district  was  a  dreary  waste 
of  ashes  in  which  the  only  business  done  for  weeks  consisted 
in  dragging  safes  out  of  the  ruins  and  breaking  them  open  in 
the  hope  of  finding  some  of  their  contents  unburned. 

Yet  as  this  is  being  written,  the  merchants  of  this  city  are 
inviting  the  pecple  of  the  West  to  a  fashion  show  in  the 
most  beautiful  modern  stores,  in  well-paved,  clean,  brilliantly 
lighted  streets — a  fashion  show  richer  and  more  surrptuous 
than  can  be  seen  anywhere  outside  of  Paris,  designed  to  appeal 
to  the  taste  and  pocket  books  of  a  prosperous  people.  And 
the  city  as  a  whole  has  invited  the  world  to  the  greatest  inter- 
national exposition   thus   far   held. 

Estimated  on  the  figures  of  the  public  service  corporations,  a 
sure  index,  the  population  of  San  Francisco  in  1913  is  530,- 
000.  In  March,  1913,  real  estate  sold  on  its  main  thorough- 
fare at  $14,000  a  front  foot. 

In  the  histories  of  American  cities  there  are  no  wonders 
comparable  to  these.  And  yet  in  looking  over  San  Fran- 
cisco's past  one  is  forced  to  conclude  that  any  one  of  these 
contributing  causes  of  growth  might  have  been  omitted  and 
yet  the  city  would  h^ve  been  here.      It  would  have  been  a 


1 8  Handhoo}(  for  San  Francisco 

thriving  community  by  this  time  without  the  gold  mines,  for 
Americans  were  beginning  to  settle  in  California  before  the 
presence  of  gold  was  generally  suspected,  and  agriculture  and 
commerce  would  have  made  San  Francisco  great.  Order  and 
security  would  in  some  way  have  been  evolved  if  not  by  the 
Vigilance  Committee.  The  Comstock  might  never  have  been 
discovered,  and  still  San  Francisco  would  have  continued  to 
thrive,  beyond  any  other  city  of  the  West. 

The  Spanish  galleons  no  longer  traverse  their  ancient  route 
from  Manila  to  Acapulco,  but  fleets  of  steel  and  steam  must 
pass  on  the  same  trail,  back  and  forth  between  Europe  and 
Asia.  Despite  earthquake  and  fire,  the  city's  commercial 
fabric  stands  on  the  surest  of  foundations — that  of  economic 
necessity.  Were  there  no  San  Francisco  in  existence  men 
would  have  to  begin  and  build  it  now. 


SAN  FRANCISCO— IN  GENERAL. 

The  beauty  and  grandeur  of  San  Francisco's  location  have 
delighted  every  visitor  that  has  seen  the  region  properly.  With 
the  possible  exception  of  Constantinople,  no  other  city  has 
such  a  setting.  It  occupies  the  tip  of  a  peninsula  about  6% 
miles  across,  almost  surrounded  by  the  Pacific  Ocean  on  the 
west,  San  Francisco  Bay  on  the  east  and  northeast,  and, 
along  the  north,  the  Golden  Gate  connecting  the  two. 

The  basin  of  San  Francisco  Ba^  is  a  magnificent  amphi- 
theater rimmed  with  hills  that  rise  here  and  there  to  mountain 
stature.  In  the  bosom  of  this  amphitheater  lies  the  Bay,  a 
gleaming  sheet  dotted  with  islands  and  shining  sails,  criss- 
crossed by  busy  ferry  boats,  and  ploughed  by  stately  ocean 
steamers  or  big  square-riggers  from  "around  the  Horn."  It 
is  65  miles  long,  from  4  to  1 0  miles  in  width;  and  into  it 
the  great  rivers  of  California,  the  Sacramento  and  the  San 
Joaquin,  discharge  the  water  that  falls  on  the  west  slope  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains  and  the  east  side  of  the  Coas^ 


In  General  19 

Range,  and  in  the  central  valley  section  of  the  State,  a  region 
400  miles  long  and  from  50  to  60  miles  across. 

The  Golden  Gate  is  the  outlet  of  this  drainage  area  and 
the  channel  through  which  the  tides  ebb  and  flow  between 
the  bay  and  the  ocean.  It  is  about  2^/^  miles  long,  and  I '/s 
miles  in  width,  and,  with  its  rolling  blue  water,  its  light- 
houses, fortifications,  islands  and  processions  of  majestic  ships, 
is  one  of  the  inspiring  scenes  of  the  western  continent.  As 
many  as  twenty-five  steamers  move  through  it  in  a  day.  It  is 
the  only  breach  through  the  Coast  Range  mountams  of  Cali- 
fornia. Beyond  the  Golden  Gate  rise  the  huge  bluffs  and  ridges 
of  Marin  County,  their  endless  convolutions  painted  in  subdued 
and  harmonious  earth  colors.  Up  the  ocean  shore  can  be 
seen  long  points  of  land  running  westward  and  making  other 
bays. 

In  San  Francisco  itself,  at  points  almost  providentially  dis- 
posed, rise  hills,  from  300  to  over  900  feet  in  height,  from 
whose  summits  superb  panoramas  of  the  city,  bay  and  ocean 
open  to  the  view. 

How  these  vistas  have  impressed  one  of  the  most  scholarly 
and  discriminating  of  travelers  appears  in  the  oft-quoted  state- 
ment of  James  Bryce,  former  British  Ambassador  to  the  United 
States,  and  author  of  the  "American  Commonwealth,"  who 
says: 

"Few  cities  in  the  world  can  vie  with  San  Francisco  either 
in  the  beauty  or  in  the  natural  advantages  of  her  situation ; 
indeed,  there  are  only  two  places  in  Europe — Constantinople 
and  Gibraltar — that  combine  an  equally  perfect  landscape 
with  what  may  be  called  an  equally  imperial  position.     .     .     . 

"The  city  itself  is  full  of  bold  hills,  rising  steeply  from  the 
deep  water.  The  air  is  keen,  dry  and  bright,  like  the  air  of 
Greece,  and  the  waters  not  less  blue.  Perhaps  it  is  this  air 
and  light,  recalling  the  cities  of  the  Mediterranean,  that  make 
one  involuntarily  look  up  to  the  tops  of  these  hills  for  the 
feudal  castle  or  the  ruins  of  the  Acropolis,  which  one  thinks 
must  crown  them." 


20  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

Along  the  west  side  of  the  city  runs  the  Great  Highway, 
following  the  ocean  almost  in  a  straight  line  for  three  miles, 
and  here  the  long  rollers  of  the  Pacific  thunder  on  the  beach 
and  sink  back  under  shrouds  of  foam.  The  whole  frontage 
of  San  Francisco  along  the  ocean  is  about  eight  miles,  from 
the  San  Mateo  county  line  to  Fort  Point. 

This  territory  covers  about  46|/2  square  miles  of  hill  and 
vale  and  sand  dunes  and  city.  It  is  an  area  of  great  topo- 
graphical variety  and  contains   1 4  good-sized  hills. 

Market  street  runs  southwest  from  the  Ferry  building  to 
Twin  Peaks,  making  small  angles,  or  gores,  with  the  streets 
running  west  on  the  north  side  of  it.  South  of  Market,  the 
streets  are  perpendicular  and  parallel  to  it. 

The  general  house  numbering  scheme  in  San  Francisco  is 
based  on  a  scale  of  one  hundred  numbers  to  the  block. 
Numbers  increase  from  the  Embarcadero  westward,  and,  from 
Market  street,  in  both  directions.  Thus  the  house  numbers 
on  each  street  slanting  westward  from  the  northwest  side  of 
Market  street  (the  north  side,  as  it  is  called  locally)  begin 
one  hundred  numbers  behind  those  on  the  parallel  streets 
north  of  it. 

City  directories  may  be  consulted  at  almost  all  drug  stores 
and  will  give  the  locations  of  churches,  fraternal  orders  and 
halls,  charitable  organizations,  clubs,  theaters,  consulates,  pri- 
vate schools,  and  similar  institutions,  in  classified  lists  to  be 
found  in  the  index.  The  directory  also  gives  a  street  and 
avenue  guide  with  house  numbers  complete.  In  the  following 
pages  we  shall  indicate  more  specifically  some  places  and 
objects  of  particular  interest  that  no  intelligent  traveler  would 
willingly  omit  to  see. 

CLIMATE. 

San  Francisco  has  one  of  the  finest  of  climates,  with  com- 
fortable and  invigorating  temperatures  the  year  around.  Stim- 
ulating  sea    breezes   blow   during   the   summer   afternoons,    in- 


In  General  2 1 

suring  against  heat,  and  usually  falling  in  the  evening,  so  that 
the  nights  are  extremely  pleasant — a  condition  that  does  a 
great  deal  to  promote  the  out-door  night  life  of  the  city. 
Fogs  are  frequent,  but  instead  of  being  dreaded  are  regarded 
as  a  cosmetic.  The  San  Francisco  complexion  is  celebrated. 
One  never  suffers  here  either  from  heat  or  cold,  and  every 
night  is  cool  enough  to  enable  one  to  sleep  comfortably 
under  blankets. 

Snow  sometimes  falls,  but  so  rarely  as  to  be  a  subject  of 
comment  for  several  days,  and  it  never  falls  in  sufficient 
quantity,  or  stays  long  enough  on  the  ground,  to  make  good 
sleighing  or  snow-balling.  The  Weather  Bureau's  records 
show  light  falls  of  snow  on  the  following  dates  since  1876: 
Jan.  21st,  1876;  Dec.  31st,  1882;  Feb.  6th,  1883;  Feb. 
7th,  1884;  Feb.  5th,  1887;  Jan.  4th,  1888;  Jan.  16th, 
1888;  March  2nd,  1894;  March  2nd,  1896;  Feb.  3rd, 
1903;  Feb.  26th,  1911;  Feb.  27th,  1911;  Jan.  9th,  1913 
— thirteen  times  in  37  years. 

During  the  cold  snap  of  Jan.  1st  to  8th,  1913,  the  lowest 
temperature  at  San  Francisco,  according  to  the  Bureau's  oflfi- 
cial  records,  was  33  degrees  above  zero.  The  lowest  tem- 
perature ever  officially  recorded  at  San  Francisco  was  29 
degrees  above  zero. 

Tornadoes,  typhoons  and  hurricanes  are  unknown.  Thun- 
derstorms are  very  rare — 28  have  been  recorded  in  20  years, 
and  eight  of  them  occurred  in  one  year.  In  20  years  there 
were  only  56  hail  storms. 

Some  most  interesting  studies  of  the  local  climate  have 
been  made  by  Alexander  G.  McAdie,  professor  of  meteor- 
ology in  charge  of  the  local  office  of  the  Weather  Bureau. 
One  of  these  is  entitled  "The  Clouds  and  Fogs  of  San  Fran- 
cisco" and  is  from  the  publishing  house  of  A.  M.  Robertson. 
Another  is  "The  Climatology  of  California,"  and  a  third  is 
"The  Climate  of  San  Francisco,"  written  by  Prof.   McAdie 


22  Handboolf  for  San  Francisco 

In  conjunction  with  George  H.  Wilson,  local  forecaster.  From 
the  first  named  work  we  quote: 

Fog   is   San   Francisco's   greatest  asset it   keeps   the   city  cool    in 

summer  and  thus  makes  for  health;  also  it  keeps  the  city  warm  m  winter, 
preventing  frosts  and  moderating  the  fall  in  temperature San  Fran- 
ciscans love  their  fog.  When  away  from  the  city  they  pine  for  it,  and 
especially  during  summer.  Not  without  reason  do  they  appreciate  the 
cooling  effect  of  the  fog.  It  enables  one  to  sleep  through  summer  nights 
and   rise  refreshed  and  ready   for  the  day's  requirements. 


CUSTOMS  REGULATIONS. 

Travelers  arriving  at  San  Francisco  from  foreign  countries 
will  find  the  customs  laws  administered,  as  far  as  the  visitor 
is  concerned,  with  tact,  courtesy  and  intelligence,  and  will 
save  themselves  annoyance  if  they  will  strive  to  conform  to 
the  necessary  conditions  of  the  tariff  regulations. 

The  purser  on  the  steamer  usually  distributes  declaration 
blanks  and  printed  notices  of  the  customs  requirements  in 
regard  to  baggage.  The  notices  specify  what  and  how  much 
can  be  brought  in  free,  and  what  must  be  declared. 

As  a  rule,  articles  are  dutiable  unless  specifically  exempted 
by  law. 

MONEY. 

San  Franciscans  are  given  to  the  use  of  gold  and  silver 
money  to  a  degree  unknown  to  the  people  of  the  Eastern 
States.  Unless  you  request  paper  at  the  bank  you  will  prob- 
ably be  paid  coin.  The  smallest  coin  in  general  use  is  the 
nickel  five-cent  piece,  although  of  late  copper  cents  are  com- 
ing into  circulation. 

The  values  of  foreign  coins  in  terms  of  United  States 
money,  have  been  proclaimed  by  the  acting  Secretary  of  the 
Treasury,  on  the  estimate  of  the  Director  of  the  Mint,  to  be 
as  follows: 


Customs  Regulations 


23 


Value    in 
Country  Moneiar])  Unit  U.  S.  Mone^ 

Argentine  Rep Peso  $0.96,5 

Austria-Hungary Crown  0.20,3 

Belgium    Franc  0.19,3 

Bolivia Boliviano  0.38,9 

Brazil     Milreis  0.54,6 

British  Am Dollar  1 .00,0 

Costa    Rica    Colon  0.46,5 

Chile   Peso  0.36,5 

/-^L  •  T     1  ^  Shanghai  0.69,2 

Chma   ^  ^^'  /  u    i  0  77  1 

'  HaiKwan  U.//,l 

Colombia    Dollar  1 .00,0 

Denmark    Crown  0.26,8 

Ecuador Sucre  0.48,7 

Egypt Pound,   100  piastres        4.94,3 

Finland Mark  0.19,3 

France    Franc  0.19,3 

German  Emp Mark  0.23,8 

Great  Britain Pound  Sterling  4.86,61/2 

Greece    Drachma  0.19,3 

Hayti    Gourde  0.96,5 

India    (British) Pound  Sterling  4.86,6^ 

Italy     Lira  0.19,3 

Japan    Yen  0.49,8 

Liberia   Dollar  1 .00,0 

Mexico Peso  0.49,8 

Netherlands    Florin  0.40,2 

Newfoundland     Dollar  1.01,4 

Norway    Crown  0.26,8 

Panama    Balboa  1 .00,0 

Persia Kran  0.1  7,04 

Peru Libra  4.86,61/2 

Philippine  Isl Peso  0.50,0 

Portugal     Milreis  1 .08,0 

Russia     Ruble  0.51,5 

Spain    Peseta  0.19,3 

Sweden     Crown  0.26,8 

Switzerland    Franc  0.19.3 

Turkey Piaster  0.04,4 

Uruguay Peso  1 .03,4 

Venezuela    Bolivar  0.19,3 


24  Handbook  /of  San  Francisco 

REACHING  THE  CITY. 

Travelers  enter  San  Francisco  in  one  of  three  general  ways: 
Through  the  Golden  Gate  if  they  come  by  sea,  landing  at 
one  of  the  State  piers  on  the  Emharcadero,  or  at  the  Govern- 
ment transport  docks  at  Fort  Mason  on  the  northern  water- 
front; at  the  ferry  Building,  also  on  the  Emharcadero;  or  at 
Third  and  Torvnsend  street  depot,  if  they  come  by  the  South- 
ern Pacific's  coast  line  trains. 

The  heaviest  travel  enters  at  the  Ferry  building,  the  city's 
great  water  gate,  having  crossed  the  Bay  from  Oakland  or 
Point  Richmond  on  the  suburban  ferries. 

These  boats  are  the  swiftest,  largest  and  most  commodious 
to  be  found  in  such  a  service  anywhere,  and  the  passage  is 
full  of  novelty  and  charm.  No  other  city  is  approached  by 
such  a  royal  way,  and  the  traveler  arriving  thus  may  well 
look  forward  to  the  last  stage  of  his  journey  as  by  far  the 
best  and  most  beautiful. 

You  pass  Yerba  Buena  (Goat)  Island  and  the  Naval  Train- 
ing Station,  and  if  you  are  early  enough  you  can  hear  the 
bugles  singing  reveille  from  the  parade  ground  above  the 
little  cove. 

Across  the  bay  to  the  northwest  rises  the  bold  cone  of 
Tamalpais,  2,592  feet  high,  with  the  beautiful  hills  of  Marin 
county,  San  Francisco's  main  playground,  for  its  buttresses. 
Before  it  is  Angel  Island,  with  the  east  cantonment  of  the 
U.  S.  Army  recruiting  station  on  its  eastern  shore. 

To  the  northward  are  the  hills  of  Sonoma  county,  "Land 
of  the  Moon,"  the  Indians  called  it,  one  of  the  principal  wine 
districts  of  California ;  and  if  the  day  be  very  clear  one  can 
see,  directly  north,  Mt.  St.  Helena,  over  4,000  feet  high  and 
55  miles  distant  in  an  air  line. 

South  of  the  bluff  Marin  county  hills  is  the  opening  of  the 
Golden  Gate,  visible  for  a  moment  before  you  pass  Yerba 
Buena  island,  and  just  inside  it  rises  Alcalraz  island,  with  the 
gray  walls  of  its  military  prison,  soon  to  become  a  Federal 
penitentiary. 


Reaching  the  Ci'/jj  25 


On  the  peninsula  of  San  Francisco,  to  the  extreme  right, 
rises  a  scarred  and  precipitous  bluff,  with  dwelhngs  clinging 
to  its  flanks,  and  trees  upon  its  crest.  This  is  Telegraph  Hill, 
"Crazy  owld,  daisy  owld  Tilygraft  Hill,"  as  Wallace  Irwin 
called  it  in  one  of  his  San  Francisco  lyrics.  In  early  days  a 
semaphore  on  its  300-foot  height  announced  incoming  vessels 
to  the  merchants  in  the  old  business  district  near  its  southern 
base.  Its  summit,  where  the  trees  stand,  is  now  Pioneer  Park, 
whence  there  is  a  wonderful  view  over  the  city  and  Bay,  and 
in  the  third  of  the  "Walks  About  San  Francisco,"  in  this 
book,  you  can  find  the  easiest  way  to  ascend. 

South  of  Telegraph  appears  Russian  Hill,  also  affording  a 
fine  view,  and  No.  IV  of  the  "Walks"  will  tell  you  how  to 
reach   that. 

The  next  prominent  feature  southward  is  the  palatial  Fair- 
mont Hotel,  crowning  Nob  Hill,  renowned  as  the  residence 
district  of  the  Comstock  and  railroad  millionaires. 

The  domed  skyscraper  that  appears  southward  of  the  Ferry 
building  and  a  considerable  distance  behind  it,  is  the  Claus 
Spreckels  building,  one  of  the  tallest  in  the  West.  It  stands 
at  Newspaper  Square,  with  the  Examiner  and  Chronicle  build- 
ings near  it.  Slightly  to  the  left  of  it  is  the  dark  and  solid 
looking  dome  of  the  Humboldt  Savings  Bank  building,  and 
rising  just  behind  that  is  to  be  the  Call  building,  400  feet 
high.     These  buildings  indicate  the  line  of  Market  street. 

Southward  still  are  the  rolling  hills  of  the  Potrero  industrial 
district.  Far  to  the  left  of  that  a  long  tongue  of  land  juts 
into  the  Bay.  This  is  Hunter's  Point,  where  great  dr^docl(s 
are  built  in  the  solid  rock.  One  of  them  is  750  feet  long, 
the  largest  on  the  Pacific  coast  of  the  two  Americas.  With 
the  Union  Iron  Works,  in  the  Potrero,  these  docks  are  now 
part  of  the  Bethlehem  Steel  Corporation's  properties. 

Flocks  of  wheeling  tern  follow  the  boat,  sailing  gracefully 
en  the  breeze,  and  swooping  without  a  miss  at  bits  of  food 
thrown  them  by  the  passengers.  These  are  the  famous  "sea- 
gulls" of  San  Francisco  Bay.     They  are  here  all  winter,  from 


26 


Handbook  for  San  Francisco 


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fv-rw-  1 

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UNVEILIXO    THE    TKTRAZZTXI    TABLET,    NEWSPAPER    SQVAHE. 

October  to  March  or  April,  and  are  an  attractive  feature. 
Their  summers  they  spend  in  the  Arctic. 

Soon  the  busy  panorama  of  the  city  front  grows  more  dis- 
tinct; miles  of  long  docks,  forests  of  masts  and  steam  funnels, 
busy  lugs  towing  barges  along  a  commercial  battle  line,  some 
great  ship  in  from  the  Orient,  a  bark  from  Antwerp  or  a  five- 
masted  schooner  from  the  islands;  the  gray  stone  Ferry  build- 
ing with  its  clock  tower  like  the  Giralda  of  Seville;  and  back 
of  it  the  city  rising  on  its  majestic  hills,  tier  upon  tier  of  it, 
spire,  dome  and  tall  skyscraper,  humming  with  life  and  seeth- 
ing with  mighty,  organized  energies. 

Or,  night  may  magically  transform  the  scene,  blanking  the 
buildings  into  the  darkness  and  leaving  the  streets  marching 
over  the  hills  with  long  ranks  and  cross  ranks  of  torches. 
The  shipping  and  the  pier   heads  will  be  pointed  with  other 


Reaching  the  Cii^  27 


lights,  and  above  them  all  will  appear  the  piercing  star  at  the 
top  of  the  Ferry  tower. 

You  go  ashore  through  the  Ferry  building  and  find  yourself 
at  the  foot  of  Market  street,  the  main  thoroughfare.  The 
Embarcadero  stretches  away  to  the  right  and  left.  The  city 
lies  before  you. 

If  you  arrive  at  Third  and  Townsend  depot,  cars  bound 
northwest  on  Third  will  take  you  to  the  heart  of  the  business 
district  at  Third,  Kearny  and  Market  streets,  or  Newspaper 
Square,  where  are  located  the  offices  and  publishing  plants 
of  the  three  great  morning  dailies  of  the  city,  the  Call,  Chron- 
icle and  Examiner.  This  is  where  Lotta  Crabtree,  a  stage 
favorite  of  former  days,  erected  a  fountain  to  show  her  love 
for  the  youthful  city,  and  where  Luisa  Tetrazzini,  on  Christ- 
mas eve,  1910,  sang  in  the  open  air  to  more  than  1 00,000 
people  and  thus  established  the  annual  winter  street  concert 
at  this  point  as  one  of  the  regular  festivals  of  San  Francisco. 

Or,  on  Townsend  street,  trolley  cars  marked  "20"  on  the 
roof  will  take  you  up  Fourth  street  to  Market,  and  thence  out 
Ellis  street  through  the  western  part  of  the  city  as  far  as  the 
beach. 

But  the  traveler  to  be  envied  is  he  that  approaches  San 
Francisco  from  over  the  ocean.  He  will  enter  an  imperial 
port.  He  will  sail  on  the  tides  of  mighty  rivers  into  the 
heart  of  a  great  State.  He  will  see  the  prone,  eternal  hills, 
"like  giants  at  a  hunting,  chin  on  hand,"  giving  him  a  patron- 
izing sort  of  welcome;  the  bold  bluffs  of  Marin  county,  the 
Berkeley  hills  on  the  "Contra  Costa"  or  opposite  shore,  per- 
haps the  tip  of  Diablo,  nearly  4,000  feet  high,  rising  behind 
them,  if  the  day  be  clear.  After  his  long  voyage  across  the 
open  ocean  he  will  have  the  sense  of  protection  and  harborage 
that  only  great  havens  give.  He  will  feel  that  this  arrival  is 
like  no  other  arrival  anywhere,  and  departure  an  evil  to  be 
indefinitely  deferred. 

Suppose  your  last  port  was  Honolulu,  or  Yokohama.  Say 
your  captain  makes  his  landfall  at  dawn.     Straight  as  a  bullet 


28  Handbooff  for  San  Francisco 

he  drives  for  the  Golden  Gate.  The  westerly  breeze  is  with 
you  and  you  feel  no  chill.  A  jagged  silhouette  lifts  from  the 
sea  as  you  look  toward  the  rising  sun,  and  as  you  draw 
abreast  of  it  and  get  better  light  the  Southeast  Farallone  looms 
to  port  like  a  castle  of  sculptured  pearl.  Past  this  outpost 
and  past  the  light-house  on  it,  and  you  are  in  that  Culf  of  the 
Farallones  known  to  the  Spaniards  for  generations  before  they 
learned  it  was  only  the  ocean  dooryard  to  California.  Dead 
ahead  is  the  coast,  a  rim  of  airy  looking  hills  in  the  morning 
mist,  so  soft  in  their  melting  outline  that  no  hint  at  first 
appears  of  the  breach  through  which  the  waters  of  the  broad 
valleys  find  their  way  to  sea. 

Fifteen  miles  farther  and  you  pass  the  light-ship.  Now  you 
face  the  Gate,  opening  directly  before  you.  The  bold  head- 
lands. Point  Lobos  and  Point  Bonita,  rear  themselves  to  right 
and  left.  Far  to  starboard,  opposite  Point  Lobos,  are  some 
brownish  crags  just  outside  the  surf,  from  which  you  may 
imagine  you  hear  the  throaty  bark  of  fat  old  sea  lions. 

Alcatraz  and  Angel  islands  loom  ahead,  Alcatraz  with  the 
light-house  and  the  gray  prison  on  it.  The  peninsula  of  San 
Francisco  crouches  couchant,  facmg  the  Marin  county  hills. 
Slowly  you  draw  past  Mile  Rock  light,  and  Baker's  Beach 
curving  in  a  long  crescent  that  terminates  in  Fort  Point  with 
Fort  IVinfield  Scott  at  its  tip.  The  timbered  slopes  from 
which  this  cape  juts  out  are  part  of  the  United  States  military 
reservation,  known  from  early  Spanish  days  as  the  Presidio. 
Its  smiling  green  expanses  mask  the  emplacements  of  many 
high-powered  rifled  cannon ;  for  San  Francisco  has  been  called 
the  best  fortified  city  in  the  country. 

Opposite  Fort  Point  is  a  white  cape  projecting  from  the 
Marin  county  shore  known  as  Lime  Point. 

Beyond  Fort  Point  are  the  625  acres  of  the  Panama-Pacific 
Exposition  grounds,  a  natural  amphitheater  glorified  with  the 
domes  and  spires,  the  courts  and  palaces  that  embody  the 
dreams  of  some  of  the  foremost  living  architects.  Before  it 
is  the  yacht  harbor,  and  just  beyond  that  are  the  Government 


Reaching  the  City 


29 


Transport  Docks,  whence  the  troops  depart  for  Hawaii  and 
the  Philippines.  Down  the  slopes  behind  and  through  the 
spaces  between  pours  the  city ;  dock  and  quay,  warehouse  and 
factory,  fort  and  Presidio  and  Fishermen's  Wharf  with  its 
lateen-sailed  fleet,  the  dwellings  of  the  people  and  the  build- 
ings of  the  World's  Fair,  blent  in  one  perfect  picture.      And 


EXrOSITION    SITE,    OX    THE    GOLDEN    GATE. 

the  night  approach  is  equally  inspiring — gloomy  bulks  of  land, 
the  beacons  winking  from  the  light-houses,  and  then  a  glory  of 
lamps  flung  over  the  hills  like  spangles  on  a  violet  robe. 

You  have  reached  a  city  so  rich  in  its  varied  types  and 
personal  elements,  so  versatile,  so  human  in  its  strengths  and 
weaknesses,  so  great  in  its  past  achievements  and  strong  in  its 
ambitions  and  its  future,  that  it  is  fit  to  rank  among  the 
dominant  communities  of  the  world. 

BRING   NO    FRUIT   INTO   CALIFORNIA. 

On  behalf  of  California's  great  fruit  interests,  on  which 
largely  the  prosperity  of  the  State  depends,  we  ask  all  travelers 
not  to  bring  in  fruit  or  vegetables. 

With  its  great  fruit  regions  and  its  wondrous  climate  just 
between  the  temperate  and  tropical,  fruit  pests  unwittingly  in- 
troduced in  the  baggage  of  some  visitor  might  thrive  and  mul- 


30  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

tiply  in  California  to  such  a  degree  as  to  imperil  one  of  the 
leading  industries  of  the  State. 

There  are  many  such  pests  that  are,  at  some  stage  of  their 
Hfe  history,  invisible,  so  that  it  is  impossible  for  any  one  but 
an  expert  in  horticulture  and  entomology  to  say  whether  fruit 
is  infected  or  not. 

So  do  not  try  to  bring  in  an^  fruit  or  vegetable. 

The  same  considerations  apply  to  the  mongoose,  which 
would  exterminate  quail,  partridges  and  other  ground  nesting 
birds  and  make  the  poultry  industry  almost  impossible  for  the 
time  being — and  possibly  to  other  animal  pets.  Before  you 
have  completed  this  journey  you  may  wish  to  make  California 
your  home.     Help  us  take  care  of  it  as  though  it  were. 


GETTING  UP  TOW>J. 

Many  of  the  larger  hotels  send  'busses  to  meet  incoming 
trains  and  steamers.  Some  are  free,  and  some  charge  25  or 
50  cents  a  passenger  for  this  service. 

Street  cars  can  be  taken  at  the  Ferry  or  at  Third  and 
Townsend  depot,  and  the  traveler  landing  at  the  steamer  docks 
south  of  Market  street  can  reach  the  Third  street  cars  by  way 
of  King  street,  southwest  to  Third. 

If  you  prefer  to  travel  by  hack,  taxi  or  automobile,  make  a 
definite  bargain  beforehand  with  the  driver  himself,  and  not 
with  a  go-between  whom  you  may  never  see  again. 

TAXICAB,    HACK   AND  AUTOMOBILE   FARES. 

From  the  Ferry  and  Railroad  Depots  and  steamer  landings 
to  hotels  in  the  "Downtown  Hotel  District,"  a  flat  rate  was  be- 
ing established  when  this  book  went  to  press.  This  rate  will 
not  exceed  $1.00  for  a  vehicle  containing  four  persons  or  less. 
Ask  your  taxicab  driver  in  advance  for  the  rate  to  where  you 
are  going.     To  points  outside  of  this  District,  meter  rates  apply. 

See  page  336  for  meter  and  other  rates  in  detail. 


Getting  Your  Baggage  Up  ToTvn  31 

GETTING  YOUR  BAGGAGE  UP  TOWN. 

There  are  two  methods  open  to  you  for  handling  your 
baggage,  either  of  them  good  and  convenient. 

First,  you  can  give  your  checks  to  the  solicitor  on  the  train 
or  on  the  steamer,  take  his  receipt,  tell  him  to  what  hotel  or 
lodgings  you  are  going,  and  be  reasonably  sure  your  trunks 
and  bags  will  reach  you  with  a  fair  degree  of  promptness. 
If  you  come  by  a  steamer  which  is  not  boarded  by  a  baggage 
transfer  agent,  your  next  recourse  aboard  is  the  purser  or  the 
freight  clerk. 

Second,  you  can  hold  your  checks  and  give  them  to  the  clerk 
of  the  hotel  at  which  you  stop.  All  the  good  hotels  have 
arrangements  for  taking  care  of  their  guests  in  this  respect. 
The  method  is  likely  to  be  fully  as  prompt  as  the  other,  and 
if  you  wish  to  look  about  before  definitely  engaging  your 
rooms,  you  will  not  have  to  pay  for  hauling  your  baggage 
from  place  to  place. 

The  fair  charge  for  carrying  a  trunk  to  any  point  except 
in  the  outlying  or  hilly  parts  of  the  city  is  $.50,  and  for  a 
piece  of  hand  luggage  $.25.  There  are  some  companies  that 
do  it  for  less.  Baggage  can  remain  in  the  railway  depots 
twenty-four  hours  without  charge.  After  that  it  pays  storage 
charges  at  the  rate  of  $.25  for  the  first  twenty-four  hours  and 
$.  1  0  for  each  succeeding  day  or  part  thereof. 

To  avoid  payment  for  storage  on  baggage,  it  should  be 
claimed  immediately  on  arrival  at  destination. 

Storage  of  baggage  is  free  at  San  Francisco  while  a  pas- 
senger on  an  interstate  ticket  is  gone  to  Yosemite  valley. 

If  the  traveler's  destination  in  the  city  is  a  private  house  he 
will  find  baggage  transfer  companies  listed  in  the  classified 
department  of  the  telephone  directory,  but  it  is  better  to  be 
guided  in  that  case  by  the  advice  of  friends. 


32 


Handbook  for  San  Francisco 


VMM  COURT  OF  TIIP:  PALACE  HOTEL. 


HOTELS. 

The  hotels  of  San  Francisco  are  among  the  finest  in  the 
world.  For  comfort,  and  efficiency  of  service  they  have 
never  been  excelled.  There  are  no  old  hotels  in  the  down- 
town section  of  the  city,  for  the  fire  of  1 906  burned  out 
every  one  in  that  district,  with  the  result  that  all  of  them  now 
existing  there  are  new,  sanitary  and  freshly  decorated  and 
furnished.  In  the  cheapest  of  them  one  gets  modern  accom- 
modations. There  are  more  good  rooms  in  second  or  even 
third  class  hotels  in  San  Francisco  than  in  any  other  city. 

San  Francisco's  renowned  old  hostelries  were  rebuilt  after 
the  fire,  and  generally  speaking  are  conducted  under  the  same 
management  as  of  old.  The  Palace,  built  by  William  C. 
Ralston,  was  known  all  over  the  world.  Its  famous  Palm 
Court  was  a  splendid  glass-domed  space  84  by  1 44  feet  in 
size,  surrounded  by  an  inner  gallery  at  every  floor,  and  with 


Some  of  the  Hotels  33 


a  huge  palm  in  the  center.  And  it  was  said  of  it,  as  Kipling 
said  of  the  India  Docks,  that  if  you  waited  there  long  enough 
you  could  see  anybody  you  wished.  Merely  to  take  down  its 
walls  after  the  fire  cost  over  $70,000,  and  it  is  now  rebuilt 
in  steel  and  brick  in  the  most  substantial  way  and  beautifully 
appointed  in  every  particular.  The  Palm  Court  is  even  more 
beautiful  than  before,  and  a  favorite  rendezvous.  In  the  bar 
is  Maxfield  Parrish's  mural  decoration,  the  "Pied  Piper  of 
Hamelin."      Ladies  sometimes  drop  in  to  view  it. 

The  Fairmont,  on  the  summit  of  Nob  Hill,  represents  a 
later  development.  With  its  view  over  the  Bay  it  is  the  per- 
manent home  of  many  wealthy  people,  and  its  great  Norman 
cafe  bids  fair  to  become  almost  as  famous  as  the  Palm  Court 
of  the  Palace. 

The  Hotel  St.  Francis  was  burned  out  by  the  fire,  but  its 
steel  frame  and  stone  walls  hardly  had  time  to  cool  before  a 
banquet  of  business  men  was  held  in  its  dismantled  White  and 
Gold  room  to  celebrate  the  beginning  of  reconstruction.  Here 
one  finds  the  last  refinement  of  perfect  hotel  service.  George 
Wharton  James,  writing  of  the  Hotel  Men's  1910  trip,  says 
of  it: 

Briefly,  there  is  no  finer  inlerprefalion  of  the  art  of  pubhc  hospitahty 
in  the  United  States  today,  than  is  presented  by  the  complete  three-winged 
St.  Francis,  which,  with  over  800  guest  rooms,  has  the  largest  capacity  of 
any  hotel  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 

In  1913  the  St.  Francis  is  constructing  a  fourth  wing,  which 
will  make  it  one  of  the  largest  tourist  hotels  in  the  world. 

The  Stewart  is  another  fine  hostelry,  and  so  are  the  Bellevue, 
the  Granada,  the  Union  Square,  the  Cadillac,  the  Herald, 
the  Sutter,  the  Manx,  and  scores  of  others.  It  is  impossible 
to  mention  them  all,  in  a  work  of  this  size,  for  this  is  the 
greatest  hotel  city  in  the  world  in  proportion  to  population, 
having  over  2,000  hotels,  lodging  houses  and  apartment  houses, 
90  per  cent  of  them  new.  However,  the  following  mention  of 
but  a  few  of  the  better  ones  of  their  class,  centrally  located. 


34  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

will  afford  the  visitor  a   good  choice  of  price   and  accommo- 
dation. 

The  phrase  "European  Plan"  means  that  the  room  only  is 
included  in  the  price.  "American  Plan"  means  meals  in- 
cluded. Where  the  hotel  is  conducted  on  the  American  plan, 
board  usually  costs  about  $2  a  day  in  addition  to  rooms. 

Hotel  Acme:  819  Mission  street.  Mission  street  cars. 
European  plan.     Moderate  prices;  at  50  cents  to  $1.50. 

Hotel  Adena:  144  O'Farrell  street,  opposite  Orpheum 
theater.  European  plan,  $1.00  a  day.  Sample  rooms  for 
commercial  travelers. 

From  Third  and  Torvnsend  depot  take  Ellis  and  Ocean 
car.  Line  No.  20,  to  Stockton  street  and  walk  one  block  Tiorth. 

From  Ferr^  building  take  an^  Market  street  car  to  Stockton 
street  and  Tvalk  one  block  north,  or  Ceary  Street  Municipal 
Railrva})  to  Stockton  street  and  rvalk  one  block  south. 

Alpine  House:  480  Pine  street,  next  to  California  Mar- 
ket. European  plan;  50c,  75c  and  $1.00  a  day;  $2.50, 
$3.00,  $3.50,  $4.00,  $5.00  and  $6.00  a  week.  Cafe  and 
grill  in  the  building.     Caters  largely  to  country  trade. 

From  Third  and  Torvnsend  depot  take  Kearny  and  Beach 
car.  Line  No.  15,  or  Third  and  Kentucky  No.  16,  get  off  at 
Pine  street  and  walk  half  a  block  east. 

From  Ferr])  building  take  Third  and  Kentucky^  car.  Line 
No.    16,   to  the  same  point. 

Hotel  Argonaut:  Fourth  street  and  Pioneer  Place,  close  to 
Market  street.  European  plan,  $1.00  a  day  and  up.  Cafe 
and  grill  in  connection. 

Free  bus. 

Arlington  Hotel:  480  Ellis  street,  corner  of  Leavenworth. 
European  or  American  plan.  Rates,  European,  $1.00  a  day 
and  up;  American,  $2.50  a  day  and  up.  Cafe  in  connec- 
tion.    Sample  rooms  for  commercial  travelers. 

Free  bus. 


Some  of  the  Hotels  35 


Astoria  Hotel:  Northwest  corner  Bush  street  and  Grant 
avenue.     Rooms  at  50  cents  to  $1.50. 

Tal^e  Sutter  street  cars,  on  Line  No.  1 ,  2  or  3,  and  walk 
one  block  north. 

Hotel  Atlan'a:  Seventh  and  Mission  streets,  opposite  the 
Post  Office.  Eluropean  plan,  75c  to  $2.00  a  day;  $3.50  to 
$8.00  a  week.  Cafe  in  connection.  Sample  rooms  for  com- 
mercial travelers. 

Free  bus  (Argonaut  or  Winchester). 

Baldrvin  Hotel:  Grant  avenue  near  Sutter  street.  All 
rooms  with  private  bath.  European  plan;  rates,  $1.00  to 
$2.00  a  day  for  one  person;  $1.50  to  $2.00  a  day  for  two. 
Family  and  commercial  trade. 

From  Third  and  Townsend  depot  ta^e  Kearny  and  Beach 
car.  Line  No.  15,  or  Third  and  Kentucky  No.  16,  to  Sutter 
street  and  walk  <^  block  west. 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  Sutter  street  car  and  get  off 
at  Grant  avenue. 

Baltimore  Hotel:  1015  Van  Ness  avenue.  European  or 
American  plan.  Rates,  European,  75c  a  day  and  up;  Amer- 
ican, $2.00  a  day  and  up.     Family  trade. 

From  Third  and  Townsend  Depot  take  Ellis  and  Ocean 
car.  Line  No.  20,  to  Van  Ness  avenue  and  walk  one  block 
north. 

From  Ferry  building  take  any  Market  street  car,  transfer  at 
Fourth  to  Ellis  street  and  get  off  at  Van  Ness  avenue. 

Bellevup.  Hotel:  Southwest  corner  of  Geary  and  Taylor 
streets.  All  rooms  with  private  bath.  European  or  Ameri- 
can plan.  Rates,  European,  $2.00  a  day  and  up;  Amer- 
ican, $4.00  a  day  and  up.  Cafe  in  connection;  sample  rooms 
for  commercial  travelers. 

Bus  from  depots  at  25c  a  person,  or 

From  Third  and  Townsend  Depot  take  Kearny  and  Beach 
car.  Line  No.  15,  or  Third  and  Kentucky  No.  16  and  transfer 
to  Geary  Street  Municipal  Railway,  passing  the  door. 


36  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  Geary  Street  Municipal  Rail- 
way, passing  the  door. 

Brooklyn  Hotel:  On  First  street,  between  Folsom  and 
Harrison.  European  or  American  plan.  Rates,  European, 
30c  to  $1.00  a  day;  American,  $1.00  to  $1.50.  Family 
and  commercial  trade. 

Free  bus. 

Hotel  BroTvnell:  335  Larkin  street,  near  Golden  Gate 
avenue.  European  plan,  $1.00  a  day  and  up;  rates  by  the 
week  or  month.     Tourist,  family  and  commercial  trade. 

From  Third  and  Torvnsend  depot  take  Kearny  and  Beach 
car.  Line  No.  15,  or  Third  and  Kentucky  No.  1 6  to  Market 
street,  transfer  to  McAllister  No.  5,  get  off  at  Larkin  and 
malk  north. 

From  Ferry  building  take  McAllister  car.  Line  No.  5,  to 
the  same  point. 

Hotel  Cadillac:  Eddy  and  Leavenworth  streets.  Euro- 
pean or  American  plan.  Rates,  European,  $1.00  a  day  and 
up;  American,  $2.50  a  day  and  up.  Cafe  in  connection. 
Sample  rooms  for  commercial  travelers.  Tourist,  family  and 
commercial  trade. 

Free  auto  bus. 

Columbia  Hotel:  409  O'Farrell  street,  corner  of  Taylor. 
European  plan,  $1.00  a  day  single,  $1.50  double;  with 
private  bath,  $1.50  single,  $2.00  double.  Tourist  and  family 
trade. 

From  Third  and  Townsend  depot  take  Ellis  and  Ocean  car. 
Line  No.  20,  to  Taylor  street  and  rvalk  one  block  north. 

From  Ferry  building  take  any  Market  street  car,  transfer  at 
Fourth  street  to  Ellis  car  to  the  same  point. 

Continental  Hotel:  127  Ellis  street,  near  Powell.  Euro- 
pean plan,  $1.00  a  day  and  up.  Cafe  in  connection.  Sample 
rooms  for  commercial  travelers.     Family  and  commercial  trade. 


Some  of  the  Hotels 


37 


From  Third  and  Townsend  depot  lake  Ellis  and  Ocean  car. 
Line  No.  20,  to  Poxeell  street. 

From  Ferry  building  take  any  Market  street  car  to  Porvell 
and  Tvalk  one  block  north. 

Hotel  Dale:  34  Turk  street.  European  plan,  $1.00  a 
day  and  up.  Cafe  in  connection.  Sample  rooms  for  com- 
mercial travelers. 

Free  bus  from  steamer  docks.  From  Third  and  Townsend 
depot  take  car  of  Line  15  or  16,  transfer  to  Market,  rvest- 
bound,  and  get  off  at  Mason. 

From  the  Ferry  take  Market  street  car  to  Mason.  The 
hotel  will  pay  taxicab  fare. 


THE    FAIKMONT    HOTEL,    \0B    HILL. 

Fairmont  Hotel:  Occupies  block  between  Powell  and  Ma- 
son, and  California  and  Sacramento  streets;  500  rooms,  each 
with  private  bath.  European  plan,  $2.50  a  day  and  up. 
Ladies'  grill  and  gentlemen's  grill  in  connection.  Sample 
rooms  for  commercial  travelers. 

Bus  meets  all  trains,  ferries  and  steamers  at  a  charge  of  50c 
per  person,  or 

From  Third  and  Torvnsend  depot  take  Ellis  and  Ocean  car. 


38  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

Line  No.  20,  to  corner  of  Ellis  and  Porvell,  transfer  to  Powell 
street  cable,  get  off  at  California. 

From  the  Ferry;  building  take  a  Sacramento  street  car,  no 
number,  to  Mason  street. 

Hotel  Clen:  Turk  and  Market  streets.  European  plan, 
$1.00  to  $1.50  a  day. 

From  Third  and  Toivnsend  depot  take  Kearny  and  Beach 
car.  Line  No.  15,  or  Third  and  Kentucky,  No.  16,  transfer 
to  Market  street  west  bound  and  get  off  at  Turk  and  Mason 
streets. 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  any  Market  street  car  to  the 
same  point. 

Hotel  Closter:  O'Farrell  and  Mason  streets.  $1.50  a 
day  with  private  bath;  $1.00  without,  for  either  one  or  two 
persons.  Cafe  in  connection.  Sample  rooms  for  commercial 
travelers.     Caters  to  a  Tourist  and  California  State  trade. 

From  Third  and  Toivnsend  depot  take  Ellis  and  Ocean 
car.  Line  No.  20,  to  Mason  street  and  Walk  one  block  north. 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  any  Market  street  car,  transfer 
to  Powell  street  cable,  get  off  at  O'Farrell  and  Walk  one  block 
west. 

From  the  steamer  docks  take  any  cab  or  taxicab  to  the  hotel 
and  the  hotel  will  pay  the  driver. 

Golden  Eagle  Hotel:  253  Third  street,  between  Howard 
and  Folsom.     European  plan,  50c  to  $2.00  a  day. 

From  Third  and  Townsend  depot  take  Kearny  and  Beach 
car.  Line  No.  15,  or  Third  and  Kentucky  No.  16,  to  Folsom 
street. 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  Folsom  street  car,  no  number, 
or  Howard  street  car,  no  number,  to  Third  street. 

Golden  West  Hotel:  Ellis  and  O'Farrell  streets.  Euro- 
pean plan,  $1.00  a  day  and  up,  single;  $1.50  a  day  and  up, 
double.     Cafe  in  connection.     Commercial  and  tourist  trade. 

Free  bus. 


Some  of  the  Hotels  39 


Coodfriend  Hotel:  245  Powell  street,  between  Geary 
and  O'Farrell.  European  plan,  $1.50  to  $2.00  a  day.  Sam- 
ple rooms  for  commercial  travelers. 

Free  bus. 

Granada  Hotel:  Sutter  and  Hyde  streets.  European  or 
American  plan.  Rates,  European  plan,  $1.50  a  day  and  up 
for  one,  $2.50  a  day  and  up  for  two;  American,  $3.50  a 
day  and  up  for  one,  $6.00  a  day  and  up  for  two.  American 
plan  dining  rooms. 

From  Third  and  Torvnsend  depot  take  Kearny  and  Beach 
car.  No.  15,  or  Third  and  Kentucky,  No.  16,  transfer  to 
Sutter  street  car.  No.  1 ,  2  or  3,  and  get  ojff  at  Hyde  street. 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  any  Market  street  car,  transfer 
to  Suiter  street  car.  No.  1 ,  2  or  3,  and  get  off  at  same  point. 

Grand  Central  Hotel:  Market  and  Polk  streets.  European 
plan,  $1.50  and  $2.00  a  day  with  private  bath;  75c  to  $1.50 
without.  Cafe  in  connection.  Sample  rooms  for  commercial 
travelers.     Caters  to  a  commercial  and  tourist  trade. 

Free  bus. 

Herbert's  Bachelor  Hotel:  159  Powell  street.  With  or 
without  private  bath.  European  plan,  $1.00  a  day  and  up, 
$6.00  a  week  and  up.  German  grill  in  connection,  always 
open.     Not  a  family  hotel.     Caters  to  a  business  men's  trade. 

From  Third  and  Toivnsend  depot  take  Ellis  and  Ocean  car. 
Line  No.  20,  to  Powell  street  and  walk  half  a  block  north. 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  any  Market  street  car  to 
Powell  street  and  Walk  northward  a  block  and  a  half. 

Hotel  Graystone:     66  Geary  street.     European  plan,  $1.00 
to  $2.50  a  day. 
Free  bus. 

Hotel  Hacienda:  580  O'Farrell  street.  European  plan, 
$1.50  a  day  with  private  bath,  $1.00  a  day  without.  Caters 
to  family  trade. 


40  Handhoof(  for  San  Francisco 

From  Third  and  Torvnsend  depot  take  Ellis  and  Ocean  car. 
Line  No.  20,  to  Jones  street  and  u>al!(  one  hlocl(  north. 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  any  Marvel  street  car,  transfer 
to  Ellis  street  and  get  off  at  the  same  point. 

Hotel  Herald:  Corner  Eddy  and  Jones  streets.  European 
plan,  $1.50  per  day  with  private  bath,  $1.00  per  day  without; 
50c  additional  to  above  rates  for  two  people.  Cafe  in  con- 
nection. 

From  Third  and  Torvnsend  depot  take  Ellis  and  Ocean  car. 
Line  No.  20,  to  Jones  street  and  ivalk  one  block  south. 

From  Ferry  building  take  Turk  ^"^  Eddy,  No.  4,  passing 
the  door. 

Hotel  Holland:  161  Ellis  street,  European  plan,  $1.00 
to  $2.50  a  day  and  50c  additional  for  two  in  a  room.  Caters 
to  a  tourist  and  local  trade. 

Free  bus. 

Hotel  Manx:  Powell  and  O'Farrell  streets.  European 
plan,  $1.50  a  day  and  up.  Grill  in  connection.  Sample 
rooms  for  commercial  travelers.  Caters  to  a  tourist.  State  and 
commercial  trade. 

Bus  at  25c  per  person,  or 

From  Third  and  Torvnsend  depot  take  Ellis  and  Ocean  car. 
Line  No.  20,  to  Powell  street  and  walk  one  block  north. 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  any  Market  street  car,  transfer 
to  Powell  street,  or  take  the  Ceary  Street  Municipal  Railway 
to  Powell  street  and  Walk  ^  half  block  south. 

Mission  Central  Hotel:  Sixteenth  and  Valencia  streets,  in 
the  Mission  District;  75  rooms;  single  or  en  suite.  European 
plan;   75c  to  $1.50  a  day. 

From  Third  and  Townsend  depot  take  Kearny  and  Beach 
car.  Line  No.  15,  or  Third  and  Kentucky,  No.  16,  to  Market 
street  and  transfer  to  Valencia  car.  No.  9,  passing  the  door. 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  Valencia  car  No.  9. 

Hotel  Normandie:  Sutter  and  Gough  streets.  European 
or  American  plan.      Rates,  European,  $1.00  a  day  and  up; 


Some  of  the  Hotels  41 

American,  $2.00  a  day  and  up.     Cafe  in  connection.     Caters 
to  a  family  and  tourist  trade. 
Free  automobile  bus. 

Pacific  States  Hotel:  556  California  street,  between  Mont- 
gomery and  Kearny.  European  plan  only ;  no  cafe  or  grill. 
Rooms  $1.00  a  day;  with  private  bath,  $1.50. 

Free  bus,  or 

From  Third  and  Torvnsend  depot  taJfe  Line  15  or  16;  from 
steamer  docks  take  Line  16;  from  the  Ferry  building  walk 
up  Market  to  California  street  cable  car,  which  passes  the  door. 

Palace  Hotel:  Market  street,  between  Third  and  New 
Montgomery.  680  rooms.  European  plan,  $2.50  a  day  and 
up.  Cafe  and  grill  in  connection.  Sample  rooms  for  com- 
mercial travelers. 

Bus  from  all  depots  at  50c  a  passenger,  or 

From  Third  and  Townsend  depot  take  Kearny  and  Beach 
car.  Line  No.  15,  or  Third  and  Kentucky,  No.  16,  to  Market 
street  and  Walk  ^^s/  half  a  block- 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  any  Market  street  car,  passing 
the  door. 

Hotel  Potter:  Mission  and  Ninth  streets.  European  plan, 
50c  to  $1.00  per  day;  $2.50  to  $4.00  a  week.  Cafe  in 
connection. 

From  Third  and  Townsend  depot  take  Ellis  and  Ocean  car. 
Line  No.  20,  and  transfer  at  Mission  street  to  west  bound  car. 

From  Ferry  building  take  any  Mission  street  car. 

Hotel  Regent:  562  Sutter  street.  European  or  American 
plan.  Rates,  European,  $1.00  a  day  and  up;  American. 
$2.00  a  day  and  up.      Cafe  in  connection. 

From  Third  and  Townsend  depot  take  Kearny  and  Beach 
car.  Line  No.  15,  or  Third  and  Kentucky,  No.  16,  and 
transfer  at  Sutter  to  west  bound  Sutter  street  car.  No.  1,  2  or  3. 
passing  the  door. 

From  Ferry  building  take  any  Market  street  car  to  Sutter 
street  and  transfer  to  Sutter  street  car.  No.   1 ,  2,  or  3. 


42 


Handbook  for  San  Francisco 


Hotel  Richelieu:  Van  Ness  avenue  and  Geary  street.  Eu- 
ropean or  American  plan.  Rates,  European,  $1.50  a  day 
and  up;  American,  $3.00  a  day  and  up.     Cafe  in  connection. 

From  Third  and  Torvnsend  depot  tal^e  Kearny  and  Beach 
car.  Line  No.  15,  or  Third  and  Kentucky,  No.  16,  transfer 
to  Geary  Street  Municipal  Railrvay  and  get  off  at  Van  Ness 
avenue. 

From  the  Ferry  building  tal(e  Geary  Street  Municipal  Rail- 
Tfay  to  the  same  point. 


UNION  SQU.V15E  AND  THE  ST.   FRANCIS  HOTEL. 

Roehampton  Hotel:  419  Golden  Gate  avenue,  corner  of 
Larkin.  European  plan,  75c  a  day  and  up.  Caters  to  a  com- 
mercial and  tourist  trade. 

From  Third  and  Torvnsend  depot  talfc  Ellis  and  Ocean  car. 
Line  No.  20,  to  Market  street,  transfer  to  McAllister  street, 
get  off  at  Larl(in  and  VpaU(  a  block  north. 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  McAllister  street  car.  Line 
No.  5,  to  Larkin  street,  and  walk  a  block  north. 

Hotel  St.  Francis:  Powell  and  Geary  streets,  facing  Union 
Square  Park,   1 ,000  rooms ;  single  or  en  suite.    European  plan. 


Some  of  the  Hotels  43 


$2.00  a  day  and  up.  Cafe  and  grill  in  connection.  Sample 
rooms  for  commercial  travelers. 

Bus  from  all  depots  at  50c  a  passenger,  or 

From  Third  and  Toivnsend  depot  take  Kearny  and  Beach 
car.  Line  No.  15,  or  Third  and  Kentucky,  No.  16,  transfer 
to  Geary  Street  Municipal  Railway  and  get  off  at  Powell  street. 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  Geary  Street  Municipal  Rail- 
Way  to  Powell  street. 

Hotel  St.  James:  Van  Ness  avenue,  near  McAllister  street. 
European  plan,  75c  a  day  and  up.  Cafe  in  connection. 
Caters  to  a  family  trade,  tourists,  out  of  town  agents. 

From  Third  and  Townsend  depot  take  Ellis  and  Ocean  car. 
Line  No.  20,  to  Market  street,  transfer  to  McAllister  car. 
Line  No.  5,  and  get  off  at  Van  Ness  avenue. 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  McAllister  No.  5,  to  Van 
Ness  avenue. 

San  Marco  Hotel:  386  Geary  street.  Each  room  with 
private  bath.  European  plan,  $2.50  a  day  and  up.  Cafe  in 
connection. 

From  Third  and  Townsend  depot  take  Ellis  and  Ocean  car. 
Line  No.  20,  to  Mason  street  and  Walk  'Q'o  blocks  north. 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  Geary  Street  Municipal  Rail- 
Way,  passing  the  door. 

Hotel  Sorrento:  364  O'Farrell  street,  between  Mason  and 
Taylor.  AH  rooms  with  private  bath.  European  plan,  $1.50 
to  $2.50  a  day. 

From  Third  and  Townsend  depot  take  Ellis  and  Ocean  car. 
Line  No.  20,  to  Taylor  street  and  Walk  one  block  north. 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  Geary  Street  Municipal  Rail- 
Way  to  Taylor  street  and  Walk  one  block  south. 

Hotel  Stanford:  250  Kearny  street.  European  plan, 
$1.00  a  day  and  up.  Cafe  in  connection.  Sample  rooms  for 
commercial  travelers.     Caters  to  country  trade. 


44  Handhoolf  for  San  Francisco 

From  Third  and  Torvnscnd  depot  tal^e  Kearny  and  Beach 
car.  Line  No.  /5,  or  Third  and  Keniuck^y  ^o.  16,  passing 
the  door. 

From  the  Ferry  building  tal^e  Third  and  Kentucky  No.  16, 
passing  the  door. 

Hotel  Stratford:  242  Powell  street,  near  Geary.  Euro- 
pean plan,  75c  to  $2.50  a  day. 

Free  bus,  or  hotel  n>ill  pay  cab  or  taxicah  charge. 

Hotel  Stewart:  353  Geary  street.  European  or  American 
plan;  with  or  without  private  bath.  Rates,  European,  $1.50 
a  day  and  up;  American,  $3.50  a  day  and  up.  Cafe  in  con- 
nection.    Sample  rooms  for  commercial  travelers. 

Bus  from  depots  and  docks  at  25c  a  person,  or 

From  Third  and  Townsend  depot  la^e  Third  street  car  and 
transfer  to  Ceary  street  direct  to  hotel. 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  Geary  Street  Municipal  Rail- 
Tvay,  passing  the  door. 

Hotel  Sutter:  Sutter  and  Kearny  streets.  European  plan, 
$2.00  a  day  and  up  with  private  bath;  $1.50  a  day  and  up 
without  bath.  Cafe  in  connection.  Sample  rooms  for  com- 
mercial travelers. 

From  Third  and  Toivnscnd  depot  take  Kearny  and  Beach 
car.  Line  No.  15,  or  Third  and  Kentucky,  No.  16,  passing 
the  door. 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  Sutter  street  car.  No.  / ,  2  or 
3,  to  Kearny  street,  or 

Hotel  will  pay  cab  or  taxicab  charge. 

Hotel  Tallac:  140  Ellis  street.  European  plan,  $1.00  a 
day  and  up. 

From  Third  and  Toxvnsend  depot  take  Ellis  and  Ocean  car. 
Line  No.  20,  passing  the  door. 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  any  Market  street  car  to 
Powell  street  and  walk  <^  block  north  to  Ellis,  or  transfer  to 
Ellis  street  car,  passing  the  door. 


Some  of  the  Hotels  45 

Hotel  Terminal:  60  Market  street.  European  plan,  $1.00 
to  $2.00  a  day.  Cafe  in  connection.  Sample  rooms  for  com- 
mercial travelers. 

From  Third  and  Townsend  depot  take  Kearny  and  Beach 
car.  Line  No.  15,  or  Third  and  Kentucky^  No.  16  and  trans- 
fer to  Market  street  car  east  hound. 

From  Ferr\)  building  this  hotel  is  Tvithin  a  short  tvallf  directlv 
up  Market  street  on  north  side.  All  Market  street  cars  pass 
the  door. 

Hotel  Turpin:  1  7  Powell  street.  With  or  without  private 
bath.  European  plan,  $1.50  to  $4.00  a  day.  Sample  rooms 
for  commercial  travelers  can  be  arranged.  Caters  to  a  family 
and  commercial  trade. 

From  Third  and  Torvnsend  depot  take  Ellis  and  Ocean  car. 
Line  No.  20,  to  Porvell  street  and  walk  half  a  block  south. 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  any  Market  street  car  to 
Powell  street  and  walk  half  a  block  north. 

Union  Square  Hotel:  Post  and  Stockton  streets,  overlook- 
ing Union  Square.  European  or  American  plan.  Rates,  Eu- 
ropean, $1.00  to  $2.00  a  day;  American,  $3.00  to  $4.00  a 
day.  Cafe  in  connection.  Sample  rooms  for  commercial  trav- 
elers. 

Bus  from  docks  and  depots  at  25c  a  person,  or 

From  Third  and  Townsend  depot  take  Kearny  and  Beach 
car.  Line  No.  15,  or  Third  and  Kentucky  No.  16,  transfer 
to  Sutter  street  car.  Line  No.  1 ,  2  or  3,  west  bound,  get  off  at 
Stockton  street  and  Walk  one  block  south. 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  Sutter  street  car.  Line  No.  /, 
2  or  3,  get  off  at  Stockton  street  and  walk  one  block  south. 

Hotel  Victoria:  Bush  and  Stockton  streets.  European  or 
American  plan.  Rates,  European,  $1.00  to  $2.50  a  day; 
American,  $3.50  to  $5.00  a  day.  Dining  room  in  connec- 
tion.    Caters  to  a  tourist  and  family  trade. 

From  Third  and  Townsend  depot  take  Ellis  and  Ocean  car, 


46  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

Line  No.  20,   transfer  to  Porvell  street,  get  off  at  Bush  and 
Walk  one  block  cast. 

From  the  Ferry  building  take  Sutter  street  car.  Line  No.  I , 
2  or  3,  to  Stockton  street  and  walk  one  block  north. 

Hotel  Von  Dorn:  242  Turk  street.  European  or  Amer- 
ican plan.  With  or  without  private  bath.  Rates,  European, 
$1.00  to  $3.00  a  day;  American,  $2.50  to  $4.50  a  day. 
Cafe  in  connection.  Sample  rooms  for  commercial  travelers. 
Caters  to  commercial,  family  and  Army  and  Navy  patrons. 

Free  bus. 


TOURIST    AGENCIES.    VALIDATING    OFFICES. 
INFORMATION  BUREAUS,  TICKET  OFFICES. 

Addresses  are  given  as  they  were  in  1913.  If  offices  have 
been  moved,  consult  the  telephone  directory. 

Thos.  Cook  &  Sons'  office  is  at  689  Market  street. 

Dunning,  H.  W.  6r  Co.:  Claus  Spreckels  building.  703 
Market  street,  corner  Third. 

Raymond  &  Whitcomb :  Monadnock  building,  681  Mar- 
ket street. 

Ems-Bourne  Tours  Co.  (Ltd.) :  Phelan  building,  760 
Market  street. 

Exposition  Tour  Co.  (San  Francisco)  :  Russ  building,  235 
Montgomery  street. 

Peck-Judah  Co.,  Inc.,  Free  Information  Bureau:  687 
Market  street,  in  the  Monadnock  building;  offers  an  extremely 
useful  free  information  service. 

Round  trip  tickets  are  validated  in  the  office  of  the  railroad 
on  which  the  traveler  leaves  San  Francisco. 

The  Southern  Pacific  Company  maintains  a  complete  infor- 
mation bureau  in  the  Ferry  building,  south  of  the  main  wait- 
ing room;  another  at  884  Market  street,  in  the  Flood  building. 


Tourist  Agencies,  Etc.  47 

and  a  third  at  the  Palace  Hotel.  Travelers  can  make  the 
two  uptown  offices  their  headquarters,  and  will  find  there  writ- 
ing desks  and  stationery  for  their  use. 

A  full  information  service  is  maintained  by  the  Western 
Pacific  at  the  Ferry  building  and  665  Market  street;  by  the 
Atchison,  Topel^a  &  Santa  Fe  at  its  offices  in  the  Monadnock 
building,  and  by  the  Northrvestern  Pacific  at  the  Ferry  building 
and  at  874  Market  street. 

Time  tables  of  all  railroad  and  steamship  lines  operating  on 
the  Pacific  Coast,  and  rates  of  fare  to  all  points  on  the  Coast, 
will  be  found  corrected  monthly  in  the  Railroad  Blue  Book, 
for  sale  at  all  news  stands  and  on  trains  at  1  5  cents. 

Vessel  movements  to  and  from  San  Francisco  and  important 
coast  ports,  including  Hawaii,  are  reported  daily  except  Sun- 
days in  The  Guide,  published  at  2  1  5  Leidesdorff  street. 

Most  of  the  railroad  and  steamship  ticket  offices  are  grouped, 
at  present,  in  the  Flood  building.  Market  and  Powell  streets, 
and  vicinity;  the  Monadnock  building,  on  Market  near  Third 
street,  and  the  Palace  Hotel  on  Market  at  New  Montgomery. 


BATHS  AND  NATATORIA. 

San  Francisco  is  well  supplied  with  baths  and  swimming 
resorts,  most  of  them  rebuilt  after  the  fire  on  well-considered 
plans. 

One  of  the  largest  and  handsomest  institutions  of  the  sort  is 
the  Lurline  Ocean  Water  Baths,  in  a  Pompeian  building  at 
Bush  and  Larkin  streets,  accessible,  by  transfer,  from  all  Mar- 
Ifet  or  Sutter  street  cars. 

Here  is  a  swimming  pool  65x140  feet,  supplied  with  filtered 
ocean  water.  There  are  apartments  for  Turkish,  Russian  and 
electric  light  baths.  The  tub  rooms  are  fitted  with  fresh  and 
salt  water  and  with  showers.  Open  until  10  p.  m.,  from  6 
a.  m.  during  the  months  from  April  to  October  inclusive,  and 
after  7  a.  m.  from  November  to  March,  inclusive.     The  use  of 


48 


Handbook  for  San  Francisco 


tub  or  natatorium  is  at  the  rate  of  40  cents,  or  three  tickets  for 
$1   for  adults.     Children  under  12,  20  cents. 

The  Sutro  Baths,  at  Point  Lobos,  vicinity  of  the  Cliff  House, 
are  the  largest  institution  of  the  kind  in  the  world.  They  can 
be  reached  by  Sutler  and  California  line  No.  1  marked  ''Cliff," 
by  Sutler  and  Clement  line  No.  2,  McAllister  No.  5,  Ellis 
and  Ocean  No.  20,  or  b])  the  California  street  Cable  6.V 
transfer. 


1 


The  building  is  open  from  7  in  the  morning  until  1  1  at 
night,  in  summer,  and  in  winter,  from  November  to  May,  it 
is  open  until  6  p.  m.  There  is  an  admittance  fee  of  a  dime  for 
adults  and  five  cents  for  children,  and  the  bathing  privileges 
are  at  the  rate  of  40  cents  for  adults  or  three  tickets  for  a 
dollar,  and  25  cents  for  children  or  five  tickets  for  a  dollar. 

HAMMAM  OR  TURKISH  BATHS,  open  to  the  pub- 
lic are: 

Burns'  Hammam,  229  Ellis  street,  between  Mason  and 
Taylor.      Turkish   or   Russian ;   salt   water   plunge ;   open  day 


Baths  and  Naiatoria  49 


and  night;  separate  ladies'  department.  Baths  $1.00,  which 
includes  sleeping  accommodations  for  the  night.  Can  be 
reached  by  Hayes  and  Ellis  car.  Line  No.  21 ,  on  transfer  from 
any  Market  street  line. 

Sultan  Baths,  624  Post  street,  between  Taylor  and  Jones. 
Turkish  or  Russian ;  fresh  water  plunge ;  open  day  and  night ; 
separate  ladies'  department.  Baths  $1.00,  including  sleeping 
accommodations  for  the  night.  This  establishment  also  has 
regular  hotel  rooms  at  a  charge  of  $1.00.  Tal^e  Montgomery 
and  Tenth  street  line  (no  number)  by  transfer  from  Market  at 
Post  and  Montgomery;  or  Sixth  and  Sansome  line  by  transfer 
from  Market  at  Taylor  street. 

Empress  Turkish  Baths,  957  Market  street,  between  Fifth 
and  Sixth  streets;  men  only;  Turkish  or  Russian,  or  Nauheim 
medicated;  salt  water  plunge;  baths  $1.00  or  6  tickets  for 
$5.00.      Includes  sleeping  accommodations  for  the  night. 

85  Third  Street;  men  only;  Turkish  and  Russian;  open 
day  and  night.  Baths  75c,  including  sleeping  accommodations 
for  the  night.     Kearny  line  No.   15,  or  Kentucky  No.   16. 

James  Lick  Baths,  165  Tenth  street,  between  Mission  and 
Howard ;  tubs ;  for  men,  women  and  children ;  open  daily,  1  2 
to  6  p.  m. ;  Saturdays,  12  to  8  p.  m. ;  Sundays,  7:30  to  10 
a.  m. ;  baths  1  5  cents. 

Montgomery  and  Tenth  street  car  line  (no  number).  Market 
No.  8,  Valencia  No.  9,  Sunnyside  No.  10,  Twenty-fourth  and 
Mission  No.  11,  Ingleside  No.  12,  Cemeteries  No.  14,  Ocean 
View  No.  26,  Howard  (no  number). 

Alameda  Baths,  in  Alameda.  A  popular  open-air  swim- 
ming resort  during  the  season.  Southern  Pacific  ferry  to  Ala- 
meda Pi^ff  and  Encinal  Loop  line  to  Fifth  street. 


50  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

RESTAURANTS.  CAFES,  GRILLS. 

Almost  everyone  that  has  heard  of  San  Francisco  has  heard 
of  its  French  restaurants.  They  are  famous  among  travelers 
imd  people  fond  of  good  living,  and  the  cuisine  and  service  are 
not  surpassed  anywhere. 

Dining  out  is  so  general  that  one  must  know  the  restaurants 
to  know  the  city.  Early  conditions  of  prosperity  established 
their  character.  Nothing  was  too  good  for  the  daring  and 
successful  San  Franciscans  of  early  days.  There  was  an  abun- 
dant food  supply,  and  good  cooks  came  from  France  and 
Italy.  The  demand  for  the  best  cookery  was  intensified  in  the 
sixties  and  seventies  by  the  open-handed,  epicurean  brokers  and 
speculators  of  the  Comstock  days.  High  standards  then  set 
have  never  been  departed  from,  but  the  prices  are  still  the 
lowest  to  be  found.  At  some  of  the  best  San  Francisco  res- 
taurants the  charge  for  table  d'hote  is  from  75  cents  to  $1.25, 
and  this  for  a  dinner,  with  wine,  that  could  not  be  approached 
in  the  large  Eastern  cities  for  $3.  A  good  dinner  can  be 
obtained  for  50  cents. 

WHAT    TO    EAT. 

The  locality  has  produced  its  peculiar  delicacies.  Its  "cold 
cracked  crab  and  beer"  have  been  sung  in  nostalgic  numbers 
by  more  than  one  exile.  The  crabs  are  a  large,  hard-shelled 
sort,  of  most  delicate  taste,  found  only  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 

California  oysters,  contrary  to  the  rule  in  other  products, 
are  very  small,  about  the  size  of  a  twenty-five  cent  piece,  but 
their  coppery  savor  has  tickled  the  palate  and  evoked  the 
praise  of  many  a  gourmand  from  Mobile,  or  New  Orleans,  or 
the  shores  of  the  Chesapeake,  where  people  know  oysters.  The 
small,  salty  white  shrimp  is  a  tidbit  of  the  bay  waters  that  is 
highly  prized.  It  is  often  served  with  oysters,  especially  in 
the  oyster  booths  of  the  different  markets,  but  is  less  abun- 
dant of  late,  owing  to  the  prohibition  of  the  Chinese  shrimp  net. 

Good  pompano  is  caught  near  at  hand,  but  it  is  not  so  much 
appreciated  here  as  elsewhere  because  of  competition,   on  the 


Restaurants,  Cafes,  Grills  '  51 

menu,  with  the  local  "sand  dab,"  a  small,  flat  fish,  like  a 
sole,  but  daintier.  When  properly  cooked,  dry  and  golden 
"a  la  King,"  the  sand  dab  is  one  of  the  real  treasures  of  the 
sea. 

Mussels  are  a  marine  delicacy  apt  to  be  new  to  the 
stranger. 

French  bread  is  another  delight  of  San  Francisco.  It  comes 
in  long  loaves  of  glutinous  crumb  and  crisp  golden  crust,  such  as 
you  find  in  Paris,  but  not  elsewhere. 

Artichokes  were  early  introduced  by  the  French  population, 
and  grow  in  abundance,  having  found  a  peculiarly  congenial 
climate. 

Every  form  of  Italian  paste  is  manufactured  here  as  well 
as  it  can  be  made  in  Italy,  and  cooked  to  perfection  in  San 
Francisco's  French  and  Italian  restaurants — lasagne,  tagliarini, 
macaroni,  spaghetti,  ravioli — with  a  sauce  of  stock,  dried 
mushrooms,  a  soupcon  of  tomato  and  perhaps  a  dash  of  saf- 
fron; inimitable  at  home.  Try  the  "fritto  misto,"  the  "fried 
mix."  If  one  brown  dainty  fails  to  suit  you,  there  is  plenty  of 
variety.  Polenta,  made  of  corn  meal,  and  risotto,  made  of 
rice,  with  the  paste  sauce,  are  typically  Italian  and  excellent. 
The  climax  of  an  Italian  dinner  should  be  a  tumbler  of  sam- 
baione,  or  sabayone,  however  it  may  be  spelled.  It  is  a  sort 
of  baked  eggnog,  made  with  imported  Marsala  wine. 

Squabs  are  not  peculiar  to  San  Francisco,  but  gourmands 
say  that  nobody  knows  what  a  squab  can  taste  like  until  he 
has  eaten  one  prepared  at  one  of  the  better-class  Chinese  res- 
taurants, in  Chinatown. 

These  trifles  are  well  to  know ;  but  the  homely  viand  of  San 
Franciscans  of  every  class,  except  the  rare  dyspeptic,  the 
material  of  midnight  suppers  for  rich  and  poor,  at  home  and 
"down  town,"  is  the  modest  but  caloric  "tamale,"  a  sort  of 
Mexican  and  Indian  ambrosia  of  chicken  and  pounded  corn. 
FRENCH   RESTAURANTS. 

One  of  the  famous  French  restaurants  of  the  city  is  the 
"Poodle  Dog,"  on  Mason  street,  between  Eddy  and  Ellis.    The 


52  Handboolf  for  San  Francisco 

"Poodle  Dog"  began  its  interesting  career  as  a  purveyor  to 
epicures  on  Dupont  street,  near  Clay,  moved  south  to  Dupont 
and  Bush,  moved  again  to  Eddy  and  Mason  street,  and  after 
the  fire  to  its  present  location.  It  took  its  name  from  the 
poodle  of  the  original  proprietor.  At  the  Bush  and  Dupont 
street  location  the  "Old  Poodle  Dog"  continued  business  until 
the  fire,  and  this,  too,  was  a  favorite  dining  place.  There  were 
patrons  for  both,  and  both  were  excellent.  The  "Old  Poodle 
Dog"  merged,  after  the  fire,  with  "Frank's"  and  "Bergez's," 
equally  popular  with  discriminating  diners-out,  and  the  com- 
posite institution  will  be  found  at  42  1  Bush  street,  just  above 
Kearny,  where  the  standards  of  the  old  places  are  well  main- 
tained. 

New  Franks,  447  Pine  street,  is  a  French  restaurant  of  the 
type  of  the  old  days  where  the  dining  room  is  plain  but  the 
cooking  excellent. 

Needless  to  say,  San  Franciscans  "love  music  with  their 
meals"  and  at  most  of  these  restaurants  they  get  it. 

Marchand's,  another  old  favorite,  is  now  conducted  by 
Michel,  an  attache  of  the  old  place,  at  the  northeast  corner  ol 
Geary  and  Mason  street.  Down  Geary  street,  toward  the 
Square,  are  Solari's  and  the  New  Delmonico,  both  good. 

A  good  French  restaurant  is  the  St.  Germain,  at  60-64 
Ellis  street,  near  the  Cort  Theater.  The  Cosmos,  at  658  Mar- 
ket street,  Borlini's,  at  7 1 4  Market,  and  Lombardi's,  at  161 
Sutter,  are  all  good. 

A  favorite  in  the  financial  district  before  the  fire,  was 
Jules'.  It  is  now  in  the  Monadnock  Building  and  upholds  its 
former  reputation.  Then  there  is  Blanco's,  at  857  O'Farrell 
street.  Jack's  Rotisserie,  at  615  Sacramento  street,  between 
Kearny  and  Montgomery,  a  good  place  for  game;  Negro's  at 
625  Merchant  street;  Felix'  at  643  Montgomery,  where  the 
pastes  are  good  and  the  walls  are  decorated  with  creditable 
paintings. 


Restaurants,  Cafes,  Grills  53 

The  Mint,  at  61  5  Commercial  street,  just  off  Montgomery,  is 
a  snug  and  cosy  sort  of  place,  where  a  cheerful  coal  fire  blazes 
on  winter  evenings.  It  is  opposite  the  old  Sub-Treasury  build- 
ing, which  stood  on  the  site  of  the  United  States  Mint  in  which 
Bret  Harte  held  a  position  as  secretary  to  the  superintendent. 

Frank's  New  Restaurant,  at  447  Pine  street,  opposite  the 
California  market  serves  an  excellent  table  d'hote. 

The  gala  night  life  of  the  city  surges  about  the  brilliant 
cafes  at  the  junction  of  Market,  Eddy  and  Powell  streets: 
the  Portola-Louvre  in  the  Flood  building,  the  Odeon  at  the 
Eddy  street  gore,  the  Techau  Tavern  at  7  Powell  street;  and 
the  Tait-Zinkand,  or  "Tail's",  at  168  O'Farrell  street,  oppo- 
site the  Orpheum.  Some  of  these  supply  entertainment  of  the 
vaudeville  or  cabaret  type.  Here  the  sparkle  and  vivacity  of 
San  Francisco  bubble  forth  after  the  theater  and  make  the 
smaller  hours  the  merriest.  Tables  for  Christmas  and  New 
Year's  eve  celebrations  must  be  engaged  far  in  advance. 

One  distinctive  type  of  restaurant  was  multiplied  by  the  fire 
— those  claiming  lineal  descent  from  the  old  "Fly-Trap,"  or 
Fashion  Restaurant.  Before  the  fire  there  was  but  one,  at  the 
foot  of  Sutter  street,  a  sort  of  French-Italian  place,  renowned 
for  the  moderation  of  its  charges  and  the  excellence  of  its 
fish  and  ducks.  There  are  several  now,  conducted  on  about 
the  same  plan  and  scale,  reproducing  with  fidelity  the  quality 
and  service  of  the  original.  One  is  on  the  south  side  of  Sutter 
street  just  below  Montgomery.  Another,  Louis'  Fashion,  is 
on  Market  street  at  524.  Charley's  Fashion  is  at  the  south- 
east corner  of  Ellis  street  and  Anna  Lane,  and  there  is  also 
a  Charlie's  Fly  Trap  at  507  Market. 

ITALIAN  RESTAURANTS. 

Generally  speaking  there  is  no  hard-and-fast  distinction  be- 
tween the  French  and  Italian  restaurants  in  the  business  section 
of  the  city,  and  either  may  serve  the  other  sort  of  table  d'hote 
on  request.  In  fact  the  art  of  serving  these  dinners  is  now 
San  Franciscan  as  much  as  Parisian  or  Milanese  or  Florentine. 


54  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

In  the  Latin  quarter,  however,  there  is  a  group  of  restau- 
rants that  are  distinctively  Italian.  They  may  be  found  along 
Broadway  near  the  crossings  of  Kearny  street  and  Columbus 
avenue.  Here  are  the  Trovatore,  the  New  Buon  Gusto,  the 
Fior  D'ltalia,  and  the  Dante.  One  is  apt  to  hear  good 
music  at  the  dinner  hour,  especially  at  the  last  named.  To  the 
epicure,  the  Italian  dishes  served  at  these  places  have  no  equal. 
Prices  are  moderate. 

At  1549  Stockton  street,  near  Columbus  avenue,  is  the 
Gianduja,  one  of  the  best  Italian  restaurants,  where  the  cook- 
ery is  especially  good. 

Down  on  Davis  street  near  the  Colombo  Market  is  an- 
other group  of  Italian  restaurants,  some  of  them  of  a  more 
particular  fame  among  nocturnal  San  Franciscans.  The  mar- 
ket is  on  Davis  street,  between  Clark  and  Pacific,  opposite  Getz 
Brothers'  wholesale  establishment.  Beside  the  market  entrance, 
and  at  the  Clark  street  corner,  is  Lucchetti's  where  the  cook- 
ing is  of  the  genuine  Italian  family  sort,  and  the  place  itself 
has  a  flavor  as  pronounced.  Here  you  get  grated  cheese  in 
your  soup,  the  pastes  are  good,  the  Bordelaise  redolent  of  just 
the  proper  amount  of  garlic,  the  electric  piano  plays  for  a 
nickel-in-the-slot  and  sometimes  tempts  the  patrons  out  on 
the  floor  for  a  dance  between  courses.  For  the  better  guidance 
of  those  that  do  not  like  such  things  it  should  be  said  that 
there  is  a  bar  in  the  main  dining  room. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  market  entrance  is  Sanguinetti's, 
equally  well-known.  Each  place  has  its  clientele.  Along 
Davis  street,  toward  Market,  are  the  Lido,  another  Gianduja. 
and  several  other  Italian  places. 

"Coppa's"  has  long  held  a  warm  place  in  the  affections  of 
the  artist-Bohemian  crowd.  Before  the  fire  it  was  in  the 
southwest  corner  of  the  Montgomery  block,  at  the  corner  of 
Montgomery  and  Merchant  streets,  where  walls  and  ceiling 
were  decorated  with  the  grotesque  fancies  of  its  artist  fre- 
quenters. You  will  find  a  good  expression  of  the  spirit  of  the 
place  in   Gelett   Burgess'   novel   of  San    Francisco   life,    "The 


Restaurants,  Cafes,  Crills 


55 


CLIFF  HOUSE  AND  SEAL  ROCKS. 


Heart  Line."  Coppa's  is  now  at  450  Pine  street,  and  you 
may  know  it  by  the  black  cats  painted  on  the  bay  tree  boxes 
in  front.  Follow  them  inside  and  you  will  see  astonishing  art 
works  on  the  walls. 

Another  place  of  distinctive  character  is  Bonini's  Barn  res- 
taurant, at  609  Washington  street,  just  off  Montgomery.  A 
truss  of  hay  marks  the  spot.  Here  you  dine  agriculturally, 
among  mangers,  under  rafters  from  which  wisps  of  fodder 
protrude,  in  the  company  of  stuffed  fowls  which  seem  about 
to  cackle  over  the  omelets  that  are  served  by  waiters  in  chap- 
erajos. 

Milan  &  Dan's  at  123  Powell,  is  another  old  favorite  in  that 
neighborhood ;  which  is  well  supplied  with  good  bakery  luncheon 
places. 

High  in  the  regard  of  old  San  Franciscans  is  the  name  of 
Campi's,  one  of  the  earliest  Italian  and  French  restaurants.  By 
successive  removals  it  has  traversed  the  business  district  from 
Merchant  and  Sansome  streets  to  the  Claus  Spreckels  building 


56  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

at  Third  and  Market.     It  was  founded  in   1854,  and  still  re- 
tains a  few  patrons  of  the  early  days. 

MEXICAN   AND   SPANISH    RESTAURANTS. 

One  should  make  the  acquaintance  of  the  Mexican  res- 
taurants of  San  Francisco.  It  should  be  remembered  that 
Mexican  cookery  is  the  cookery  of  the  abstemious  Spanish 
people,  with  Indian  corn  added  to  the  larder.  Here  thrive 
the  tamale,  "chili  con  carne,"  frijoles,  first  stay  of  the  early 
gold  miners,  and  the  enchilada.  But  be  temperate  with  the 
sauce  in  the  little  oval  dish.     It  is  even  redder  than  it  looks. 

There  are  two  good  Mexican  restaurants  in  the  Latin  quar- 
ter: Matias'  Mexican,  at  726  Broadway,  and  the  City  of  Mex- 
ico, at  734  Broadway.  A  couple  of  Spanish  restaurants  in 
other  parts  of  the  city  are,  the  Castilian  cafe,  at  344  Sutter 
street,  between  Grant  avenue  and  Stockton,  and  La  Madrilena, 
at  1  77  Eddy,  near  Taylor. 

The  Creel^  Colony  occupies  the  vicinity  of  Folsom  street, 
from  Third  west,  with  its  commercial  part  strung  along  the 
latter  thoroughfare.  Here  are  cafes  and  restaurants,  with  the 
signs  printed  in  the  alphabet  of  Xenophon ;  the  Acropolis,  the 
Macedonia,  the  Venus,  the  Constantinople  and  others.  There 
is  nothing  to  eat  in  the  Greek  cafes — no  refreshment  except 
tiny  cups  of  coffee  thick  with  the  powdered  berry  and  sweet- 
ened to  the  taste  of  syrup,  which  you  sip  at  little  marble  top 
tables  while  you  watch  the  scions  of  old  Athenians  smoking  the 
hookah,  or  playing  dominoes  and  pool. 

For  Greek  cooking  and  Greek  wines,  go  to  the  restaurants, 
not  the  cafes. 

GRILLS. 

Some  of  the  places  known  distinctively  as  grills  achieved 
fame  for  their  ducks,  terrapin,  crab  a  la  Newburg,  and  other 
specialties.  One  of  these  is  "John's"  at  57  Ellis  (formerly 
with  Gobey).  Gobey  himself  is  dead  but  his  widow  con- 
ducts a  grill  at  I  40  Union  Square  avenue,  the  little  street  that 


Restaurants,  Cafes,  Grills  57 

points  directly  at  the  Dewey  Column,  from  Grant  avenue 
between  Geary  and  Post.  Next  to  Gobey's  is  Girard's,  of  the 
same  family,  with  a  good  patronage  from  the  physicians  and 
professional  men  that  have  offices  near.  The  Bay  State  grill 
at  275  O'Farrell  street,  is  good  for  any  sort  of  meal. 

Collins  &  Wheeland,  at  347  Montgomery  street,  conduct 
a  bar  and  grill  much  frequented  by  brokers  and  professional 
men  that  have  their  offices  in  the  financial  center  and  are  fond 
of  good  salads  and  good  beef.  It  is  one  of  the  old  institutions 
of  the  city. 

German  grills  are  plentiful  in  San  Francisco,  and  remark- 
ably good.  In  the  lower  part  of  town  there  is  Schroeder's,  a 
place  for  men,  at  I  1  7  Front  street,  near  California.  Prices 
are  moderate  and  the  cooking  excellent.  Another  is  the  Com- 
mercial restaurant,  at  225  Pine.  Another  German  cafe  for 
men,  and  one  at  which  the  prices  are  very  modest  is  the 
Hammonia,  at  453  Bush  street,  near  Grant  avenue.  Farther 
up  town,  for  men  and  women,  and  slightly  more  elaborate,  are 
Beth's,  at  9  Ellis;  the  Heidelberg,  at  37  Ellis;  and  the  Hof- 
Brau,  in  the  Pacific  building  at  Market  and  Fourth  streets. 
Then  there  is  the  grill  in  Herbert's  Bachelor  Hotel  at  151-159 
Powell. 

OYSTERS    AND    SHELL-FISH. 

For  oysters  and  other  shell-fish,  including  San  Francisco 
shrimps,  the  clawless  lobster  of  the  coast  and  the  delicious  hard- 
shell crab  that  is  found  only  here,  there  are  good  stalls  in 
the  larger  markets,  such  as  the  California  Market,  on  Pine 
street,  between  Montgomery  and  Kearny;  and  in  the  Spreckels, 
the  Washington,  the  Lincoln  and  the  Bay  City,  all  of  which 
are  situated  in  Market  street  between  Third  and  Sixth.  The 
Pearl  oyster  house  in  the  California  Market  has  been  a  favor- 
ite resort  with  San  Franciscans  for  two  generations.  Its  founder 
is  one  of  the  proprietors  of  the  Portola-Louvre.  Mayes'  Oyster 
House,  in  the  California  Market  has  a  branch  at  30  Third 
street,  and  another  at  Sutter  and  Polk. 


58  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

Another  well-known  place  is  the  Oyster  Loaf,  at  55  Eddy 
street. 

Among  the  best  restaurants  making  a  specialty  of  shell-fish 
is  Darbee  &  Immel's  Shell-Fish  Grotto,  at  245  O'Farrell 
street.  This  is  the  only  restaurant  making  a  specialty  of  shell- 
fish dinners  exclusively. 

BREAKFAST  AND   LUNCHEON. 

Good  dinners  necessitate  dainty  breakfasts,  and  San  Fran- 
ciscans have  the  places  that  supply  them.  In  1876  the  Vienna 
Model  bakery  opened  on  Kearny  street  with  the  sort  of  service 
and  fare  it  had  been  giving  at  the  Centennial  exposition  at 
Philadelphia  in  that  year.  It  met  with  immediate  success, 
and  became  a  cherished  institution.  The  name  and  traditions 
are  preserved  on  O'Farrell  street,  opposite  "Tait's,"  and  near 
the  Orpheum.  At  the  Golden  Pheasant,  on  Geary  street  near 
Market,  one  can  get  as  fine  a  breakfast  and  luncheon  as  any- 
where in  the  country,  for  as  little  money.  Swan's,  another 
bakery  restaurant  at  140  O'Farrell  street  is  very  good.  This 
is  not  to  say  that  these  places  do  not  serve  dinner. 

A  dainty  place  in  the  shopping  district  is  the  Tea  Cup,  up 
stairs  at  225  Post  street,  near  Grant  avenue. 

A  very  popular  place  in  the  lower  part  of  town,  and  one 
where  home  cooking  is  served,  is  Grover's,  at  121  California 
street.  It  started  in  a  tent  after  the  great  fire.  It  is  not  open 
evenings. 

The  Emporium  department  store  on  Market  street,  between 
Fourth  and  Fifth  has  a  good  luncheon  place.  So  has  Hale 
Bros.,  Inc.,  at  the  corner  of  Fifth  and  Market,  where  there  is 
a  cafeteria  and  a  Pompeian  cafe. 

The  California  Poppy,  at  738  Market  street,  is  a  good  place 
for  luncheon  and  tea. 

For  good  service  at  any  time  of  day  at  reasonable  prices, 
Suhr's,  at  723  Market  can  be  recommended.  For  luncheon,  or 
afternoon  tea,  the  Women's  Exchange,  at  70  Post  street,  oppo- 


Restaurants,  Cafes,  Grills  59 

site  the  Mechanics-Mercantile  hbrary,  is  good,  and  moderate  In 
its  charges. 

THE    CLIFF    HOUSE,    AND    HIRAM    COOK's    GRILL. 

The  ChfF  House  is  a  cafe  and  restaurant  that  is  famous  all 
over  the  world.  It  should  be  mentioned  again  that  this  is  a  res- 
taurant, not  a  hotel. 

And  not  least,  but  last  because  farthest  out  and  more  of  a 
luxury  for  people  that  like  to  range  abroad  by  trolley  car  or 
automobile,  is  Hiram  Cook's  Grill  and  Buffet,  on  Nineteenth 
avenue  between  Vicente  and  Wawona  streets,  in  the  Parkside 
district. 

The  fashionable  life  of  the  city  can  be  seen  at  luncheon 
or  dinner  at  the  St.  Francis  or  the  Palace  Hotel.  At  the 
former  afternoon  tea  is  served  m  the  Tapestry  Room,  and  at 
the  latter  in  the  large  court. 


WALKS  ABOUT  SAN    FRANCISCO. 

/. — An  Hour's   Walk  in  the  Dorvntoien  District — The  Stock 
Exchange. 

From  Lotta's  Fountain,  at  the  junction  of  Market,  Kearny 
and  Third  streets,  where  flowers  are  sold  in  the  open  air  the 
>ear  around  and  the  Christmas  eve  outdoor  music  festivals  are 
held,  walk  north  three  blocks  to  Bush. 

Almost  at  the  beginning,  at  50  Kearny  street,  you  come 
to  one  of  the  show-places  of  the  city — the  Diamond  Palace 
of  Col.  Andrews.  The  show  window  displays  examples  of 
the  quartz  jewelry  that  appealed  to  the  San  Franciscans  of  an 
early  day.  Within,  it  is  a  place  of  mirrors  endlessly  reflecting 
the  splendors  of  white  Corinthian  columns  and  crystal  chan- 
deliers, and  of  pamtmgs  of  the  dazzling  figures  of  history  and 
the  Old  Testament.  Overhead  is  a  portrait  of  the  Colonel 
himself,  one  of  the  most  picturesque  of  pioneer  San  Franciscans. 


60  Handboolf  for  San  Francisco 

Walk  eastward  down  Bush  street,  here  the  third  street 
from  Market.  About  the  center  of  the  block,  on  the  south 
side,  at  No.  353  Bush,  you  come  to  the  San  Francisco  Stoc}( 
Exchange.  This  is  the  leading  mining  stock  bourse  of  the 
world,  the  institution  through  which  was  transacted  more  busi- 
ness, in  the  days  of  the  Comstock  mining  excitement,  than  on 
any  other  exchange  at  that  time.  Its  home  here  is  temporary, 
built  on  a  leasehold  to  serve  immediate  necessity  after  the  fire 
of  1906. 

You  may  enter  the  "visitors'  gallery"  railed  off  for  clients, 
back  of  the  main  floor  where  the  trading  is  done.  The  brokers 
have  a  youthful  appearance,  but  here  and  there  among  them 
you  will  see  the  gray  head  of  an  old-timer,  who  remembers 
the  world-famous  deals  of  the  "Seventies"  and  expects  more 
like  them  "when  the  water  is  pumped  out  of  the  Comstock 
and  the  workings  are  opened  down  to  the  three-thousand  foot 
level." 

The  exchange  was  organized  in   1862. 

As  much  as  $43,000  was  bid  for  a  seat  in  1875,  with  no 
seller. 

The  Comstock  lode  itself  lies  along  the  eastern  side  of  Mt. 
Davidson,  in  the  Washoe  range,  Nevada,  for  a  distance  of 
about  two  miles. 

On  the  quotation  board  you  can  read  the  principal  names 
of  the  underground  hoards — Ophir,  Gould  &  Curry,  Con. 
Virginia,  California,  Kentuck,  Mexican,  Savage,  Best  & 
Belcher,  Hale  &  Norcross,  Crown  Point,  Potosi,  Yellow 
Jacket,  Chollar ;  hoards  that  produced  mogul's  ransoms,  names 
that  conjured  across  the  continent  and  across  the  ocean  some 
of  the  most  adventurous  men  the  nineteenth  century  produced. 

Such  a  scene  as  this  was  the  stage  of  one  of  the  golden 
romar.ces  of  California,  and  the  focus  of  interest  for  the 
mighty  figures  that  stalked  through  it;  such  men  as  James  R. 
Keene,  a  dominant  figure  in  Wall  street  during  these  later 
years  and  until  his  death  in  January,  1913;  Flood  &  O'Brien, 
"Lucky"   Baldwin,   John   P.   Jones  and  William  M.   Stewart 


An  Hour's   Walk  Dorvn  Torvn  61 

of  Nevada,  George  Hearst,  Mark  McDonald,  Alvinza  Hay- 
ward,  William  Sharon,  John  W.  Mackay,  James  G.  Fair, 
George  I.  Ives.  Jones,  Stewart,  1  ?earst,  Sharon  and  Fair 
became  United  States  senators.  The  ;i  men  were  giants,  and 
the  tradition  of  them  remains  as  a  vital  part  of  the  conscious- 
ness of  San  Francisco,  a  thing  that  helps  give  it,  as  a  city,  a 
feeling  of  individuality  and  distinction. 

There  is  still  much  trading  in  Comstocks,  and  to  it  has 
been  added  the  operations  in  Southern  Nevada  shares — Gold- 
field,  Tonopah,  Manhattan,  Bullfrog — and  a  consolidation 
has  recently  been  effected  with  the  oil  exchange,  so  that  a 
quite  considerable  business  is  focussed  at  this  point.  There  are 
three  regular  sessions  and  one  long  informal  session  a  day. 
The  minmg  session  opens  at  9:30  a.  m.,  and  is  followed  by 
informal  trading  that  may  continue  until  2:15.  The  oil  board 
sessions  open  at  n:15  a.  m.,  and  1:15  p.  m.  The  caller 
is  Joseph  L.  King,  chairman  of  the  board  and  author  of  a  live- 
ly history  of  it. 

Looking  down  Bush  street,  one  sees  at  the  corner  of  Mont- 
gomery the  Mills  building,  an  office  building  erected  by  the 
late  D.  O.  Mills.  A  block  beyond,  at  the  northwest  corner 
of  Sansome,  is  the  building  of  the  Standard  Oil  Company  of 
California,  in  which  are  housed  all  the  general  offices  of  the 
corporation.  If  you  were  to  follow  this  block  around  you 
would  come  to  the  site  of  the  new  United  States  Sub-Treasury 
building,  at  the  southwest  corner  of  Pine  and  Sansome  street, 
which  will  cost,  complete,  $834,300,  and  with  equipment 
will  probably  come  to  $1,000,000. 

Retrace  your  steps  on  Bush  street  and  continue  westward 
to  Grant  avenue,  passing  "Bergez,  Frank's,  Old  Poodle  Dog, 
one  of  the  famous  French  restaurants  of  San  Francisco.  At 
the  corner  of  Grant  avenue  you  can  look  up  to  the  right  and 
see  the  pagoda-like  ornamentation  on  the  buildings  at  the  en- 
trance to  Chinatown,  which  we  shall  leave  for  another  one  of 
these  "walks." 


62  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

For  the  present,  turn  southward  (towards  Market  street). 

On  the  right  hand  side  of  Grant  avenue  is  the  boolf  shop  of 
Paul  Elder,  a  place  of  dstinction.  The  interior  is  simply  and 
harmoniously  Gothic,  sl  craftily  planned  and  consistently  exe- 
cuted that  it  conveys  an  irresistible  spell  of  medievalism. 

This  is  the  neighborhood  of  fine  jewelry  stores,  fur  stores 
that  offer  furs  as  fine  as  any  to  be  found  in  London,  galleries 
of  interesting  paintings,  which  the  public  is  welcome  to  visit. 

Union  Square  is  just  beyond,  a  palm  garden  set  in  the  midst 
of  hotels  and  smart  shops.  Its  east  line  is  Stockton  street,  and 
down  about  half  way  of  the  square,  at  the  corner  of  the  nar- 
now  street  called  Union  Square  avenue,  is  A.  M.  Robertson  s 
boolf  store,  notable  for  its  varied  stock  which  the  owner  is  con- 
tinually enriching  by  his  own  publications  of  such  writers  as 
Ambrose  Bierce,  Herm.an  Scheffauer  and  George  Sterling. 
This  publisher  has  probably  done  more  to  make  California 
authors  and  Western  literature  known  than  any  other  one  man. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  Square,  occupying  the  site  of  old 
Calvary  Presbyterian  church,  is  the  Hotel  St.  Francis,  equal 
in  appointment  and  service  to  any  hotel  in  the  world. 

The  Dexvey  monument  rises  in  the  center  of  Union  Square, 
commemorating  the  victory  of  Manila  Bay. 

Looking  down  Sutter  to  the  right,  one  sees  the  Pacific  Cas 
&  Electric  Company's  building,  decorated  with  a  large  map  of 
the  Central  California  counties,  in  30  of  which  this  San  Fran- 
cisco enterprise  serves  over  32 1 ,000  people  with  water,  gas, 
and  electricity  for  light  and  power.  Across  Sutter  street 
is  the  Temple  Emanu  El,  the  city's  oldest  Jewish  house  of 
worship,  the  beautiful  architecture  of  which  is  famous,  with  the 
turrets  that  were  surmounted,  before  the  fire  of  1 906,  with 
those  graceful  Oriental  domes  that  became  a  sort  of  insignia 
of  San  Francisco.  Adjoining  the  synagogue  on  the  south 
is  the  first  site  of  the  Tivoli  Opera  House — the  Tivoli  Gar- 
dens of  old. 

Westward  on  Sutler  is  one  of  the  handsome  art  stores  of 
the  city,  that  of  Vickery,  Atkins  &  Torrey. 


An  Hour's    Walk  Down   Town 


63 


It  would  be  a  pity  for  any  one  that  has  a  feeling  for  beau- 
tiful design  and  fine  specimens  of  craftsman  skill  to  leave  San 
Francisco  without  having  seen  this  shop. 

Thence,  westward  to  Mason  street.  Beyond  is  a  part  of  the 
burned  district   formerly   occupied  by  old  time  dwellings  and 


INTERIOR  OF  A   SAN  FRANCISCO   RETAIL   STORE. 


a  few  modern  hotels,  now  rapidly  rebuilding  to  hotels  and 
apartment  houses  and  destined  to  be  the  most  densely  popu- 
lated part  of  San  Francisco. 

Turn  down  Mason  toward  Market.  At  Post  is  the  First 
Congregational  church.  Looking  up  Post  one  can  see  on  the 
right  the  brown  brick  building  of  the  Olympic  Club,  the  oldest 
amateur  athletic  organization  in  the  world,  and  one  of  the 
finest  clubs  in  San  Francisco.  More  about  it  can  be  found 
through  the  index. 


64  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

Next  beyond  the  Olympic  is  the  red  brick  building  of  an- 
other famous  San  Francisco  Club,  the  Bohemian. 

Southward  on  Mason  street  one  comes  to  the  building 
known  as  N.  S.  G.  W.  Hall — the  headquarters  for  the  Native 
Sons  of  the  Golden  West,  a  fraternal  and  benevolent  organiza- 
tion formed  among  the  native  born  sons  of  California  to  pre- 
serve the  traditions  of  the  pioneers  and  the  spirit  of  state 
patriotism. 

At  the  corner  of  Geary  and  Mason  streets  is  "Marchand's," 
one  of  the  celebrated  French  restaurants  of  the  city. 

To  your  right,  on  Geary  street  is  the  Columbia  theater, 
noteworthy  for  its  colorful  facade.  The  large  buildings  which 
you  see  beyond,  at  the  corner  of  Taylor  street,  are  the  Clift 
and  Bellevue  hotels,  among  the  finest  in  the  city. 

Farther  down  Mason  street,  on  the  west  side  between  Ellis 
and  Eddy,  is  the  famous  Poodle  Dog  restaurant. 

Continuing  on  Mason  street  toward  Market,  one  sees,  down 
Eddy  street  to  the  left,  the  new  Tivoli  Opera  House,  standing 
on  the  site  it  occupied  for  many  years  when  it  was  the  fore- 
most home  of  opera  bouffe  in  the  United  States,  and  where  sym- 
phonies and  grand  opera  were  produced  as  well.  It  was  at 
the  Tivoli  that  San  Francisco  audiences  "discovered"  the  voice 
and  art  of  Luisa  Tetrazzini  and  proclaimed  to  the  world  a 
new   operatic   star. 

At  the  foot  of  Mason  street,  on  Market,  is  the  "Native 
Sons"  fountain,  with  the  romantic  figure  of  the  youthful  pio- 
neer, "dedicated  to  the  Native  Sons  of  the  Golden  West,  to 
commemorate  the  admission  of  California  into  the  Union,  Sep- 
tember the  ninth.  Anno  Domini  MDCCCL." 

Turn  down  Market  to\vard  the  Ferry  and  you  will  be  in 
the  main  stream  of  the  city's  life.  Here,  from  Mason  to 
Kearny  streets,  is  the  thickest  of  the  traffic,  on  the  sidewalk 
and  in  the  roadway. 

Between  these  imposing  Market  street  buildings  the  street 
is   120  feet  wide. 


An  Hours    Walk  Doivn   Toren   '  65 

On  the  other  side  of  the  street,  at  the  corner  of  Powell,  is 
a  stately  pile  of  grey  sandstone  built  some  time  before  the  fire 
on  the  site  of  the  old  Baldwin  hotel,  by  James  L.  Flood,  son 
of  James  C.  Flood,  the  great  mining  operator  of  the  Comstock. 
It  is  the  largest  office  building  west  of  Chicago  and  contains 
over  900  rooms. 

Here,  at  Market  and  Powell,  is  the  center  of  the  city's  night 
life.  The  whole  neighborhood,  from  seven  o'clock  on,  blazes 
with  lights  and  swarms  with  automobiles  and  pleasure  seekers. 

This  is  a  street  of  large  buildings  and  of  department  stores, 
such  as  Prager's,  Hale's  and  the  Emporium.  The  green-tiled 
Pacific  building,  at  the  corner  of  Fourth  street,  is  the  largest 
reinforced  concrete  office  building  in  the  world.  (The  Com- 
mercial building  next  to  it  stands  on  the  site  of  the  old  Acad- 
emy of  Sciences.) 

On  the  north  side  of  Market  street,  near  Montgomery,  one 
of  San  Francisco's  landmarks,  the  Hobart  building,  is  to  be 
rebuilt  during  1914,  filling  the  last  big  gap  in  lower  Market 
street  created  by  the  fire  of  1  906.  Of  pressed  brick  front  and 
terra  cotta  and  granite  trimmings,  the  structure  will  rise  for 
twenty-one  stories,  or  a  total  of  3  1  5  feet.  It  will  have  a  front- 
age of  92  feet  5  1  -8  inches  and  the  ground  floor  will  be  arranged 
m  attractive  stores.    One  million  dollars  is  the  estimated  cost. 

Next  is  the  Humboldt  Savings  Bank  building,  18  stories 
and  245  feet  high.  Farther  down  the  street,  at  the  corner  of 
Third  street.  Newspaper  Square,  is  the  Claus  Spreckds  build- 
ing, one  of  the  most  beautiful  commercial  buildings  in  the  world, 
1  9  stories,  counting  the  dome,  and  3  1  5  feet  high. 

A  few  more  steps  brings  us  to  Lotta's  Fountain,  and  News- 
paper Square. 

This  round  can  be  made  in  an  hour  if  you  do  not  linger — 
which  you  are  quite  likely  to  do. 

SOME    TALL    BUILDINGS    IN    SAN    FRANCISCO. 

Hobart  Building,    Market   below    Mortgomery;   21    Stories.     Height,   315    ft. 
Humboldt  Savings  Bank  Bldg.,  783  Market;    18  Stories.  "         245   " 

Claus  Spreckels  Building,  Market  and  Third;    19  Stories.  "         315  " 


66 


Handbook  for  San  Francisco 


ENTRANCE  TO   CHINATOWN. 


A   Walk  in  Ch'inaloTvn  67 


Hearst  Building,  Market,  Third  and  Kearny;  12  Stories.    H( 

Mutual   Savings   Bank   BIdg.,   706  Market;  12  Stories. 

Chronicle   Building,   Market  and  Kearny;  17  Stories. 

Merchants'  Exchange  BIdg.,  431   California;  14  Stories. 

Insurance    Ex.    BIdg.,    Cal.    &    Leidesdorff;  11    Stories. 


ght,    163    ft. 
190  " 
219  " 

'        200  " 
167  " 


WALKS  ABOUT  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

//. — Ch'inaloTpn. 

Situated  between  Kearny  and  Stockton,  California  and 
Pacific  Streets. 

Kearny  Line  No.  15,  or  Kentucky  No.  16,  to  California 
Street  and  walk  a  block  '^^^^  'o  Grant  avenue;  or  California 
street  cable  or  Sacramento  street  cable,  to  Grant  avenue. 
Easily  reached  afoot  from  the  downtown  hotel  district. 

You  can  "do"  Chinatown  by  automobile,  taxicab,  or  one 
of  the  sight-seeing  motor  cars  that  start  from  Market  street 
west  of  Newspaper  Square  every  evening  at  8  o'clock.  These 
cars  furnish  guides  and  charge  a  dollar  a  passenger.  But  the 
best  way  to  see  and  enjoy  it  is  to  prowl  through  it  afoot. 

You  could  spend  all  the  working  days  of  a  month  going 
up  and  down  its  swarming  streets  and  choked  alleys,  won- 
dering at  the  inscrutable  denizens  and  their  little  moon-faced 
children,  listening  to  the  sing-song  language,  smelling  the  reek 
of  leeks,  punk  and  incense,  until  you  acquired  unconsciously 
the  habit  of  looking  on  yourself  and  other  strayed  Caucasians 
as  foreigners,  and  still  but  scratch  the  surface  of  interest  in  this 
most  fascinating  city  of  America. 

For  Chinatown  is  a  city,  of  and  by  and  for  itself.  There 
is  nothing  like  it  in  any  other  part  of  the  country,  although 
they  may  have  the  recipe  for  chop  suey  elsewhere.  There 
can  not  be  anything  like  it  in  China,  for  it  is  at  least  encysted 
in  a  Caucasian  social  tissue.  It  is  and  always  will  be  San 
Francisco's  Chinatown,  unique  and  outlandish,  a  foreign  coun- 
try of  ten  city  squares,  supposed  to  be  a  part  of  Canton,  or 
a   part   of   Tartary,    as   you   please ;    living   its   own    customs, 


68  Handboof(  for  San  Francisco 

rites  and  practices,  modified  by  the  white  man's  laws  as  far 
as  the  United  States  Marshal's  office  and  the  "Chinatown 
Squad"  from  the  Hall  of  Justice  are  able  to  put  them  into 
effect. 

Yet  those  will  not  find  the  main  interest  in  Chinatown  that 
persist  in  regarding  it  as  a  weird  and  horrible  slum.  It  is  not. 
Between  eight  and  nine  thousand  Oriental  people  live  within 
the  few  blocks  of  the  district,  almost  no  whites  dwelling  among 
them,  and  while  they  exhibit  racial  peculiarities  that  bewilder 
the  western  mind,  it  is  safe  to  say  that  the  percentage  of  the 
law-abiding  is  as  high  here  as  in  many  other  parts  of  the  city. 
Avoiding  trouble  is  a  Chinese  national  habit,  and  nowhere  is  the 
white  visitor  more  secure  in  property  or  person. 

Chinatown  has  changed,  both  in  its  "physical  plant"  and 
customs.  For  half  a  century  its  tenants  built  and  burrowed 
in  it,  shaping  it  to  their  uses,  until  it  was  a  strange  place, 
full  of  mystery  and  surprise,  with  picturesque  curbstone  in- 
dustries and  sidewalk  stalls,  and  communicating  catacombs 
where  half  its  population  huddled,  and  axe-proof  doors  be- 
hind which  some  of  them  carried  on  the  allied  industries  of 
pi-gow,  fan-tan,  poker  and  lottery  drawings. 

These  conditions  have  largely  altered  for  the  better.  The 
fire  burned  out  the  quarter;  and  the  unsanitary  hovels  with 
their  strata  of  accumulated  filth,  cell-like  chambers,  wander- 
ing galleries  and  sidewalk  encroachments  disappeared.  When 
Chinatown  rebuilt  it  was  on  modern,  sanitary  lines  and  ac- 
cording to  the  most  approved  city  ordinances. 

THE    CHINESE    TRANSITION. 

The  people,  too,  have  changed.  Just  now  they  present  the 
anomalies  of  transition  from  eastern  to  what  they  conceive 
to  be  western  ways.  It  is  the  day  of  the  Republic.  The 
Manchus  are  gone  from  the  throne  of  the  Middle  Kingdom. 
The  Dragon  Flag  has  disappeared  from  Chinatown  and  so 
have  the  queues  that  once  hung,  a  sign  of  Manchu  domination, 
down  the  backs  of  its  merchants,  bankers,  pawn  brokers,  clam 


A   Walk  in  Chinaioxvn  69 

dealers,  rag  pickers,  down  to  the  humblest  male  resident.  The 
comfortable  and  dignified  Chinese  dress  is  vanishing.  Even 
the  tong  wars  grow  beautifully  less,  and  the  hatchet-men  that 
carried  them  on  are  growing  scarce,  and  hard  to  hire;  these 
very  tong  wars,  by  the  way,  being  unknown  in  China,  and  a 
peculiar  reaction  from  conditions  in  this  country. 

The  writer  has  been  in  a  Chinese  home  in  Grant  avenue, 
where  the  girls  and  women  of  the  household  were  absorbed 
m  the  preparation  of  the  beautiful  little  stage  sets  used  for 
the  feminist  feast  of  the  Seven  Sisters — the  Chinese  myth  of 
the  Pleiades — pagan,  and  possibly  as  ancient  as  the  Book  of 
Job — and  he  has  gone  thence  directly  into  another  Chinese 
home,  behind  barred  doors  above  dark  flights  of  stairs,  where 
the  names  of  the  daughters  of  the  household  were  engrossed 
on  grammar  school  certificates  hanging  on  the  walls,  and  the 
oaken  bookcase  contained  such  volumes  as  "West's  Ancient 
World,"  a  source-book  of  English  history,  and  a  copy  ol 
Bryant's  translation  of  the  Odyssey. 

In  the  history  of  the  Chinese  revolution,  San  Francisco  should 
loom  large  as  a  factor.  When  the  death  of  Tsi  Ann  weak- 
ened the  Manchu  tyranny,  these  San  Francisco  Cantonese 
had  been  living  for  three  generations  in  contact  with  a  virile 
western  civilization,  and  were  able  to  testify  to  their  home-keep- 
ing countrymen  that  China's  institutions  were  not  built  above  the 
summit  of  human  intelligence,  and  possibly  could  be  improved. 
Here  Dr.  Sun  Yat  Sen  was  given  asylum  ten  years  ago,  and 
the  movement  received  organized  support.  Here  was  estab- 
lished the  Chinese  Republic  Association,  one  of  the  most  pow- 
erful influences  outside  of  China  in  bringing  about  the  down- 
fall of  the  Manchus. 

Some  old  customs  have  been  modified,  but  much  remains. 
The  principal  festivals  are  still  kept.  These  people  have  a 
genius  for  elaborate  decoration,  which  finds  no  field  in  the 
Spartan  bareness  of  their  homes,  but  blossoms  out  in  vivid 
color  and  fantastic  ornament  to  make  their  ceremonies  a  delight. 
With   their   huge  processional   dragon    (now   in   Golden   Gate 


70  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

Park  Museum),  their  beautiful  umbrella-shaped  standards,  their 
saffron  flags  and  their  traveling  tableaux  and  floats,  they  have 
made  the  Portola  parades  of  San  Francisco  a  wonder  that 
could  be  seen  nowhere  else  on  the  continent. 

If  you  are  lucky  in  the  hour  of  your  wandering,  you  may 
see  a  funeral  or  hear  a  wedding — and  the  weddings  are  easy 
to  hear,  for  part  of  the  ceremony  consists  in  paying  out  a  cable 
of  fire-crackers  from  the  second  story  balcony  of  some  res- 
taurant, and  letting  the  dangling  end  burn  off  about  a  foot 
above  the  curb,  with  frequent  discharges  of  bamboo-wound 
bombs.  If  the  bridegroom  is  sufficiently  prosperous  the  din 
may  last  until  long  after  midnight. 

Funerals  take  their  ancient  way,  with  the  exception  of  a 
"young  Chinese  band"  at  the  head,  playing  European  dirges. 
Follows  a  cab-full  of  the  real  old  Chinese  music,  with  deaf- 
ening crashes  of  great  brass  cymbals,  squealing  trumpets,  and 
mad  banging  of  a  gong  slung  from  the  roof  of  the  hack.  Then 
the  hearse,  and  on  the  seat  beside  the  white  driver  a  Chinese 
that  throws  to  the  breeze  small  oblong  pieces  of  tissue  paper 
with  perforations  through  which  the  pursuing  demons  must 
crawl  and  thus  be  heavily  handicapped. 

Directly  behind  the  hearse  comes  the  black  figure  of  a  Taoist 
priest,  performing  on  cymbals  decorated  with  a  fluttering  ban- 
neret. He  precedes  the  widow,  who  walks  in  white,  the 
Chinese  mourning  color,  bowed  double  with  grief,  face  hidden, 
and  supported  by  two  sad-faced  sisters  in  black.  They  are 
hired  to  look  sad,  and  they  give  good  value  for  the  money. 

Next  a  block  of  hired  mourners:  women  in  blue  gowns  and 
pantaloons,  with  their  heads  hidden  in  white  cowls.  More 
cabs,  full  of  relatives  and  friends,  gongs  and  cymbals;  and, 
finally,  an  express  wagon  loaded  with  paper  effigies  of  serv- 
£>nts  for  the  departed,  to  be  burned  at  the  cemetery,  and  the 
funeral  baked  meats  for  his  subsistence  as  he  starts  on  his  long 
journey;  roast  pig,  crawfish,  chicken  and  other  favorite  viands. 

All  Grant  avenue  turns  out  to  see,  and  the  balconies  of 
the  side  streets  are  thronged.     The  comment  is  apparently  dis- 


A   Walk  in  ChinaloTvn  71 

criminating  and  critical,  and  as  a  topic  of  discussion  the  epi- 
sode lasts  the  afternoon. 

AMONG    THE    BAZAARS. 

A  conspicuous  fact  about  Chinatown  is  that  it  consists, 
on  the  street  level  at  least,  almost  wholly  of  shops.  The  mer- 
chant class  predominates,  and  it  practices  a  rigid  and  unde- 
viating  commercial  honesty.  What  a  Chinese  merchant  prom- 
ises  he  performs. 

The  main  axis  of  the  quarter  is  old  Dupont  street,  now 
Grant  avenue.  Near  Market  this  is  one  of  the  finest  Ameri- 
can retail  shopping  thoroughfares  in  the  city,  but  beginning  at 
Pine  street  you  find  yourself  among  Japanese  stores,  which 
carry  handsome  and  costly  stocks  of  silks,  prints,  bronzes  and 
porcelains;  and  at  California  you  enter  the  group  of  pagoda- 
roofed  buildings  that  house  the  finer  Chinese  bazaars  and  form 
the  entrance  to  the  Chinese  quarter.  Here  are  the  beautiful 
establishments  of  the  Sing  Fat  Company,  the  Sing  Chong 
Company,  the  Canton  and  the  Shanghai  bazaars,  the  Nanking 
Fook  Woh  Company,  the  Wing  Sing  Loong  Yokohama  Com- 
pany, the  W.  Sang  Lung  Company,  of  Chee  Chong  &  Co., 
and  Yuen  Lee  &  Co.  Millions  are  invested  in  the  stocks  of  these 
establishments,  and  they  attract  visitors  from  all  over  the 
world.  You  will  not  find  such  collections  of  Chinese  art  wares 
in  any  other  city,  in  or  out  of  China. 

The  names  of  these  bazaars  are  not,  usually,  the  names  of 
their  proprietors,  but  expressions  of  poetic  sentiment  or  invo- 
cations of  fortune.  In  the  most  modest  of  them  you  may  find 
the  oriental  treasure  bit  that  makes  the  strongest  appeal  to 
you  and  at  the  smallest  price.  The  Chinese  attendants  are 
uniformly  courteous,  and  whether  you  buy  or  not  you  are 
welcome  to  admire  and  enjoy  the  wonder-works  in  silver, 
bronze,  enamel,  lacquer,  teak,  rosewood,  porcelain,  carven  ivory 
and  sumptuously  embroidered  silks. 

Along  this  street  are  some  good  Chinese  restaurants,  with 
recessed   balconies   where   huge    globular   lanterns   bob   in   the 


11 


Handbool(  for  San  Francisco 


breeze,  and  with  "tea  gardens"  on  the  top  floors,  where  one  can 
dine  upon  dishes  of  the  toothsome  Chinese  cuisine.  Preserves 
and  tea  are  served  at  modest  rates;  and,  on  a  day's  notice, 
almost  any  of  these  places  will  arrange  dinners  at  prices  rang- 
ing from  $2  to  $20  a  cover,  that  will  include  such  delicacies 
as   birds'   nest   soup,    snow    fungus,    shark    fins,    "chop   suey," 


'iiii:  m;\v  ^i;ai; 


"chow  yuk,  "  squab,  bamboo  shoots,  almond  pudding;  chicken, 
pork  and  noodles  served  in  the  various  oriental  modes,  ac- 
companied by  plum  and  pear  wines,  and  beginning,  always, 
with  dessert.  Chinese  orchestras  can  be  engaged  to  accom- 
pany the  feast. 

Live  fish  are  imported  in  tanks  from  China  for  banquets 
here. 

At  the  north  corner  of  Clay  street  is  one  of  the  deadwalls 
used  as  a  bulletin  board.  Here  advertisements  and  notices  of 
all    sorts,    in    black    Chinese    characters    on    the    universal    red 


A   Walk  in  Chinatown  73 

ground,  are  posted,  and  here  eager  knots  of  men  can  be  seen 
gleaning  the  news  of  the  day.  No  people  is  more  keen  for 
news  and  the  little  community  supports  four  daily  papers  printed 
in  the  Cantonese  dialect. 

Butcher  shops,  grocery  and  drug  stores  along  this  medieval- 
looking  street  present  curious  sights — dried  roots  and  herbs, 
jars  of  sea-horse  skeletons,  dejected  ducks  flattened  out  and 
varnished,  and  hung  up  to  tempt  the  epicure,  gobbets  of  pork 
from  which  the  butcher  hacks  a  cat-meat  cut  for  his  frugal 
patron. 

Note,  on  the  counters  of  the  merchants,  the  abacus,  the 
primitive  adding  machine,  old  as  the  Pyramids  and  still  in 
use  among  these  conservatives. 

On  the  south  side  of  Washington  street,  below  Grant  ave- 
nue, in  the  pretty  little  curly-cornered  and  green-tiled  Oriental 
building  next  the  corner,  is  the  Chinatown  exchange  of  the 
Pacific  Telephone  and  Telegraph  Company.  The  manager, 
Mr.  Lo  Kum  Shu,  is  a  Chinese.  The  operators  are  Chinese 
girls,  and  their  employment  here  is  in  itself  an  anomaly,  for 
Chinese  women  are  not  supposed  to  work  for  wages.  Hence 
the  screens  at  their  backs,  protecting  them,  ceremonially  at 
least,  from  observation.  One  can,  however,  peek  through  the 
glass  door,  and  see  that  in  addition  to  being  clad  in  fetching 
Oriental  costumes,  they  are  incredibly  quick  and  skillful  with 
the  plugs. 

They  are  almost  perfectly  ambidextrous,  working  equally 
well  with  either  hand.  In  addition,  the  telephone  offi- 
cials inform  us,  they  are  gifted  with  wonderfully  clear  and 
tenacious  memories.  There  are  over  1 200  Chinese  telephone 
subscribers  in  Chinatown,  and  these  girls  respond  all  day  with 
hardly  a  mistake  to  calls  that  are  given  by  the  name  of  the 
subscriber  instead  of  by  his  number — a  mental  feat  that 
would  be  practically  impossible  to  most  high-schooled  American 
misses. 

Up  Jackson  street  from  Grant  avenue  are  several  manufac- 
turing  jewelers'    shops,    where    the    jewelers    and    gold-carvers 


74  Handbool(  for  San  Francisco 

can  be  seen  at  work  making  bracelets  and  rings  and  setting  jade 
ornaments.  On  the  left,  as  you  go  westward,  is  the  entrance 
to  historic  Ross  alley,  once  lined  with  gambling  places,  where 
the  lookout  in  the  dingy  vestibule  could  close  a  dozen  iron- 
clad doors  with  a  single  word;  now  an  innocent-looking  place 
where  wholesale  merchants  sit  in  dim  little  counting  houses  and 
reckon  their  profits  on  importations  of  Chinese  ware. 

Occasionally  at  night  groups  of  Chinese  can  be  seen  in 
these  stores,  behind  screens  that  hide  them  from  the  shoulders 
down.  No  doubt  they  are  gambling ;  but  neither  you  nor 
any  other  white  man  will  get  near  enough  to  see,  and  swear  to, 
the  layout  and  the  money. 

Returning  southward  through  Ross  Alley  you  emerge  on 
Washington  street,  from  the  opposite  side  of  which  Waverly 
Place  opens  on  the  left  and  Spofford  Alley  on  the  right.  There 
is  a  modest  sort  of  Joss  house  in  Spofford  Alley.  Waverly 
Place,  two  blocks  long,  contains  many  of  the  buildings  and 
meeting  places  of  the  "tongs"  or  Chinese  mutual  benevolent 
associations. 

A  JOSS  HOUSE. 

At  125  Waverly  Place  is  the  building  of  the  Sue  Hing 
Benevolent  Association,  its  upper  story  a  Joss  house  and  one 
of  the  finest  in  the  quarter.  This  word  "Joss,"  by  the  way,  is 
the  Chinese  corruption  of  the  Portuguese  "Deos,  '  meaning 
God,  which  the  Chinese  first  heard  at  the  Portuguese  trading 
port  of  Macao;  so  that  a  "Joss  house"  is,  literally,  a  House 
of  God.  The  Chinese  worship  individually,  never  in  con- 
gregations. 

This  Joss  house  is  the  Temple  of  the  Queen  of  Heaven, 
sumptuous  with  gilded  carvings  and  enameled  urns,  vivid  with 
the  colors  of  paper-flower  work,  and  of  banners  and  standards 
borne  in  processions  and  public  fetes. 

It  opens  at  the  east  end,  with  the  altar  facing  west,  as  all 
proper  Joss  houses  do.  A  small  purchase  of  incense  or  punk 
sticks  or  a  chunk  of  sandalwood  acts  as  an  admittance  fee. 
Within  the  ornate  shrine  sits  the  lady  herself,  the  god  of  War 


A   Walk  in  Ch'maloren  75 

on  her  right  and  of  Wealth  on  her  left.  There  is  another  shrine 
on  the  left  that  is  devoted  to  feminine  worship,  but  the  main 
one  is  for  the  men.  Standing  in  rails  to  north  and  south 
are  the  silver  standards  of  the  gods  in  battle.  The  walls  bear 
tall  inscriptions  from  sacred  writings,  on  gilded  backgrounds, 
donated  by  wealthy  communicants,  and  corresponding  roughly 
to  our  memorial  windows.  The  drum  and  gong  at  the  north 
side  open  and  conclude  the  devotions. 

On  the  table  before  the  main  shrine  is  a  cylindrical  bamboo 
box  full  of  splints,  with  what  we  should  call  "fortunes" 
written  on  them.  By  shaking  the  box  properly,  the  supplicant 
can  make  one  splint  emerge,  and  thus  obtain  oracular  pro- 
nouncement on  his  affairs.  If  necessary  he  can  even  shake 
out    a    medical   prescription. 

Near  at  hand  is  a  pair  of  blocks  made  from  bamboo  root, 
shaped  like  halves  of  a  crooked  cucumber  and  red  on  the 
rounded  sides.  These  are  used  for  divination,  and  in  function 
are  said  to  be  identical  with  the  Urim  and  Thummim  of  the 
ancient  Hebrews.  After  kneeling  with  his  back  to  the  Lady, 
the  searcher  after  celestial  life  raises  them  three  times  above 
his  head,  kow-towing  to  the  east,  and  then  throws  them  on 
the  floor,  when,  if  they  fall  different  sides  up,  he  is  sure  his 
prayer  will  be  answered  or  his  venture  succeed;  if  they  fall 
red  sides  up,  he  may  chance  the  doubtful  enterprise;  but  if 
they  fall  flat  sides  up,  the  signal  is  set  against  him,  and  he  re- 
peats his  orisons,  throwing  the  blocks  again  and  again,  until 
they  fall  to  suit  him — believing,  as  we  all  are  prone  to  do, 
in  the  omens  that  he  makes  himself.  Running  almost  across 
the  room  is  a  large  table  with  cast  tin  urns  on  it.  This  is 
a  sort  of  altar, of  which  more  when  we  reach  the  next  Joss  house. 

Follow  Waverly  Place  through  to  Clay  street  and  turn 
up-hill  to  Stockton.  The  Chinese  Consulate  General  is  at  the 
southeast  corner  of  Clay  and  Stockton.  To  the  right,  at  915. 
is  the  shop  of  Num  Sing,  the  lantern  maker,  whose  great  bub- 
bles of  tinted  light  grace  the  balconies  of  homes  and  restaurants. 
South  of  Clay  street,   at  843   Stockton,   in  the  building  with 


76  Handhoo}(  for  San  Francisco 

the  blue  enameled  vestibule,  is  the  conclave  hall  of  the  5ix 
Companies,  Chung  Wah  Woey  Krvoon,  the  Chinese  Consoli- 
dated Benevolent  Association.  This  is  the  most  influential 
organization  in  the  Chinese  community,  the  power  that  dis- 
penses the  higher  and  the  lower  justice,  sitting  as  a  court  of 
arbitration  in  trade  disputes  and  doing  equity  among  the  Fami- 
lies and  the  Tongs.  Visitors  may  enter  if  the  door  is  open. 
The  place  is  handsomely  appointed,  with  colored  glass  screens 
and  gilded  grills,  carved  teak  chairs  with  marblestone  backs, 
a  long  council  table  and  a  row  of  seven  seats  where  sit  the 
presidents  of  the  Six  Companies,  with  a  place  of  honor  for 
the  Consul  General. 

From  the  meeting  place  of  the  Six  Companies,  continue 
southward  to  Sacramento  street.  Up  the  hill,  at  920  Sacra- 
mento, is  an  institution  known  all  over  the  United  States  for 
the  invaluable  work  it  has  done  in  behalf  of  unfortunate  Chi- 
nese girls  and  women:  the  Woman  s  Occidental  Board  of  For- 
eign Missions.  In  April,  1913,  it  celebrated  the  fortieth 
anniversary  of  its  founding.  Many  a  romance  has  been  writ- 
ten and  many  another  will  be  about  the  helping  hand  and  pro- 
tecting care  given  otherwise  helpless  human  chattels  by  its 
heroic  superintendent.   Miss  D.   M.   Cameron. 

The  mission  house  contains  dormitories,  kitchens,  dining 
rooms,  a  fine  assembly  hall,  and  two  school  rooms  for  a  pri- 
mary school  and  seminary,  where  Chinese  girls  are  educated. 
It  has  been  a  home  for  hundreds  of  unfortunates  that  had  no 
other,  and  here  they  have  received  not  merely  "book  learning" 
but  practical  domestic  training  until  they  have  become  fitted 
for  marriage  and  the  duties  of  their  own  households. 

Of  late  the  mission  has  become  so  rooted  in  the  life  of 
Chinatown  and  has  gained  such  a  degree  of  confidence  among 
the  Oriental  population  that  Chinese  merchants  are  beginning 
to  send  their  daughters  to  it  for  tuition,  especially  when  the 
girls  are  motherless. 

As  you  pass  down  Grant  avenue  on  the  north  side  it  will 
be  interesting  to  turn  north      a    few    steps  on  Waverly  Place 


A   Walk  in  Chinatown  77 

Ic  No.    I  8,  the  composing  room  of  the  Chinese  Free  Press. 

Here  you  can  look  through  the  windows  and  see  Chinese 
compositors  setting  up  a  Chinese  newspaper.  Instead  of 
twenty-six  letters  and  some  punctuation,  the  Chinese  type  font 
must  contain  over  four  thousand  ideographic  characters,  each 
representing  a  complete  word.  As  a  result,  the  cases  are 
huge  affairs,  taller  than  a  man  and  twelve  or  fourteen  feet 
long,  and  among  them  the  compositors  weave  about  in  a  solemn 
and  soft-footed  sort  of  lancers  or  quadrille,  picking  out  a  char- 
acter here,  and  another  in  the  next  case,  and  another  across 
the  room.  With  such  a  system  of  literation,  type-writers  are 
impossible  and  a  linotype  keyboard  would  look  like  an  acre 
of  lettuce. 

White  visitors  are  not  encouraged  to  enter  the  composing 
rooms  of  any  of  the  Chinese  dailies,  the  type  being  too  val- 
uable and  the  Christian  souvenir  hunter's  morality  too  frail. 

Leaving  Waverly  Place,  follow  Sacramento  street  down  to 
Grant  avenue,  and  cut  across  St.  Mary's  Square,  southeasterly, 
to  Pine  street.  At  Pine  is  the  imposing  entrance  to  the  prop- 
erty of  the  Kong  Chow  Friendly  Society  and  the  Temple  of 
Quan  Dai,  a  larger  Joss  house  than  the  Temple  of  the  Queen 
of  Heaven,  and  in  some  particulars  more  interesting.  These 
two  are  the  leading  Joss  houses  in  San  Francisco,  and  owing 
to  changing  faiths  and  ideas,  no  more  are  likely  to  be  built. 

At  the  entrance  you  pass  around  a  screen  formed  by  two 
swing  doors,  with  pictures  of  ancient  warriors:  men-at-arms 
of  the  god,  and  guardians  of  his  temple.  The  screen  is  found 
similarly  placed  in  all  orthodox  buildings  in  China,  even  in 
dwellings.  It  does  not  form  much  of  an  obstruction  to  men, 
who  can  walk  as  crookedly  as  necessary,  but  is  baffling  to 
devils,  whose  well-known  habit  it  is  to  make  a  rush  in  a  straight 
line  whenever  the  door  is  opened,  and  who  bump  their  heads 
on  the  screen  and  retire  in  dismay. 

On  the  walls  of  the  high-ceiled  entrance  hall  are  vermilion 
slips  of  paper,  bearing  the  names  of  members  of  the  congre- 
gation  and   the   sums  they   have  subscribed  to  the  upkeep   of 


78 


Handboof^  for  San  Francisco 


IN  THE  TEMPLE  OF   QUAN   DAI. 


the  place ;  the  largest  subscriptions  at  the  top.  A  door  opens 
into  a  handsome  court  with  a  fountain  at  the  east  side,  just 
under  a  huge  red  disk  hke  the  face  of  the  sun  painted  on  the 
wall. 

The  stairs  leading  to  the  Joss  house  on  the  top  floor  start 
from  the  left-hand  door;  the  main  entrance,  and  the  door  at 
the  right,  open  into  chapels  devoted  to  a  simpler  sort  of  an- 
cestor worship.  A  considerable  area  of  valuable  real  estate 
has  been  devoted  to  courtyard  space  in  order  to  orient  the 
building. 

A  CHINESE  DEITY. 

Quan  Dai  was  a  great  warrior  of  some  two  thousand  years 
ago,  raised  to  high  station  by  his  emperor  and  deified  after 
death  for  his  nobility  of  character  and  many  virtues.  He  is 
the  tutelary  deity  of  the  Kong  Chow  association,  and  here  his 
effigy  is  enshrined  in  a  jungle  of  gilded  carvings,  hung  with 
green  embroidered  curtains  and  bedecked  with  peacock  feathers 
for  luck.     He  is  supported  by  two  smaller  figures,  and  before 


A   Walk  in  Chinatown  79 

him  are  three  lesser  deities  personifying  the  natural  elements. 
The  shrine  carvings  represent  Chinese  myths  and  highly  ethical 
teachings;  and  the  delicate  handiwork,  executed  in  China, 
well  repays  close  scrutiny,  for  in  depth  and  intricacy,  and  vigor 
cf  treatment,  it  equals  some  of  the  best  Swiss  output. 

The  offering  of  tea,  on  the  little  inlaid  teak  table  before 
the  god,  is  replaced  afresh  every  morning  by  the  temple  keeper, 
when  he  lights  the  taper  in  peanut  oil  on  the  altar  and  sets 
the  punk  sticks  smouldering  in  the  big  bronze  urn.  Always 
three  punk  sticks  are  offered  at  a  time,  representing  the  Chi- 
nese trinity  of  Earth,  Heaven  and  Man.  These  things  are 
not  done  in  adoration  of  the  god  himself  so  much  as  in  exaltation 
of  the  virtues  he  exemplifies. 

To  the  right  of  the  shrine  as  you  face  it,  is  Quan  Dai's  faith- 
ful warhorse,  about  six  hands  high  and  of  extraordinary 
"points."  On  the  left  is  represented  his  battle  lance.  Beside 
it  is  the  drum  and  bell  with  which  the  worshipper  announces 
himself,  and  which,  his  devotions  over,  he  strikes  to  indicate 
that  it  is  finished,  and  to  bid  the  god  goodby. 

Before  the  shrine,  a  richly-wrought  lantern  hangs,  with  a 
light  that  burns  unceasingly,  teaching  that  devotion  must  not 
be  an  intermittent  "Sunday  piety,"  but  a  consistent  and  con- 
tinuous state  of  mind. 

The  standards  of  the  god  and  his  followers  are  reproduced 
here  in  wood,  and  with  them  are  the  bamboo  helmets  of  an- 
cient times.  Golden  scrolls  adorn  the  side  walls,  given  by 
members  of  the  society  and  bearing  eulogies  of  the  god.  Over- 
head hang  other  writings  on  handsome  teak  and  ebony  boards. 
Some  testify  to  the  rectitude  of  the  temple  management  and 
others  express  the  most  exalted  philosophical  concepts.  In 
reading  the  Chinese  characters,   always  begin   at  the  right. 

Back  of  the  altar  is  a  space  for  the  religious  exercises  of 
the  communicant.  Here  he  prays,  and  here  he  casts  the  divin- 
ing blocks  for  answer  to  his  prayers.  Here  also  are  the  oracle 
sticks  in  their  bamboo  box.  Behind  this  space  is  the  Heung 
On  Toi,  or  table  of  the  Heung  On ;  five  tall  vase-like  objects 


80  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

of  cast  tin  decorated  with  small  enameled  pictures.     The  outer       i 
two   are    for   compositions   of  paper   flowers,    extraordinary    in 
their  color  and  perfection   of  detail.      The   inner  two  are   for 
candles,  as  on  the  altar  of  a  Christian  church.      The  central 
one  is  for  incense. 

The   outer   half   of   the   table   carries   bronze   vases    for   in- 
cense and  punk.     At  present  one  of  them  holds  a  tall  stick  of 
sandal   wood,   thick   as   a   man's  wrist,   with  the  name  of   the 
donor  pasted  on  it,  and  from  this  sweet-smelling  bough  a  chip       | 
is  whittled  to  be  burned  as  occasion  requires.  \ 

On  a  carved  teak  stand  is  a  contorted  root  of  sandal  wood,  i 
giving  out  the  faint  perfume  the  Chinese  love. 

More  gilded  carvings  line  the  front  of  this  table,  under  glass 
and    wire    screen,    for    these    are    very    costly.       In    the    upper       [ 
corners    are   some    fine    representations   of    submarine   scenes — 
crustaceans  and  fish,   amid  weird  sea  plants.      The  lower  tier 
of  carvings  is  a  fairy-land  of  Chinese  myth. 

There  are  two  small  shrines  in  the  eastern  corners,  shelter-  i 
ing  smaller  gods  of  fortune  and  guardians  of  the  east  portal,  ' 
who  also  seem  to  act  as  agents  for  the  collection  of  celestial  j 
dues,  one  of  them  receiving  the  offerings  and  the  other  handing  ' 
them  up. 

The  furnace  for  the  burnt  offerings  of  this  temple  is  in  the      I 
small  chamber  to  the  north,  opening  from  the  east  end.     Here      I 
gold  and  silver  paper  are  burned  by  the  devotee  in  the  expecta- 
tion that  the  god  will  transmute  them  into  the  real  thing  and      | 
return  them  an  hundred  fold.  I 

On  the  birthday  of  the  god,  sacrifices  of  pork,  chicken  and 
fish  are  brought  to  his  shrine  and  then  taken  home  and  eaten. 
Some  bring  them  at  the  beginning  of  the  year,  seeking  favors; 
and  some  at  the  year's  end,  in  gratitude  for  the  blessings  they      i 
have  received.  ! 

FESTIVALS. 

The  beginning  of  the  Neiv  Year  is  the  great  Chinese  festival. 
It  is  everybody's  birthday.      Mercantile  accounts  are  squared,       j 


A   Walk  in  Chinatorvn  81 

and  the  papers  canceled  in  the  temple  furnaces.  For  six  weeks 
before,  the  Hly  bulbs,  set  in  stones  and  water,  have  been 
nursed  in  sun  and  shade  to  bring  the  lucky  blooms  at  just  the 
proper  date.  Beginning  in  the  afternoon,  fire-crackers  scold  the 
old  year  out  and  hail  the  new  year  in.  The  cymbals  and  the 
tom-toms  resound.  In  stores  and  households,  the  odors  of 
sacrifice  are  offered  to  the  gods  and  the  substance  is  feasted 
on  by  men.  There  is  universal  congratulation,  offered  at 
tea  parties  and  social  calls,  with  much  munching  of  cakes 
and  melon  seeds  and  sweetmeats.  The  children  are  dressed 
in  their  best.  At  no  other  time  does  the  quarter  exhibit  such 
smiling  amiability  and  general  good-will.  Everybody  feels 
so  good  the  drug  stores  close  their  doors,  for  no  one  could 
need  drugs  at  such  a  time,  and  besides,  it  is  a  bad  way  to  begin 
the  year;  and  if  any  one  does  need  them  the  medicaments  are 
handed  out  surreptitiously,  wrapped  in  joyous  red  paper  in- 
stead of  the  usual  white,  to  conciliate  the  spirit  of  the  occa- 
sion. 

The  festivities  last  a  week,  ending  with  "Man's  Day" 
when  all  conventional  restraints  are  off  and  every  one  enjoys 
himself  as  he  likes. 

This  is  a  good  time  to  visit  Chinatown.  From  the  best 
information  obtainable  at  present,  the  date,  which  used  to 
fall  in  February  under  the  Empire,  will  be  made  to  coincide 
with  ours,  though  how  they  will  make  their  lilies  bloom  then, 
is  a  question  for  some  Chinese  Burbank. 

The  festival  of  the  5even  Sisters  occurs  about  the  middle  of 
August.  You  may  see  a  rough  lumber  balcony  erected  across 
the  south  end  of  Ross  Alley,  with  the  little  figures  and  scenes 
displayed  on  it.  Formerly  it  was  the  occasion  of  rivalry 
among  the  girls  of  different  families  to  see  which  could  pro- 
duce the  most  beautiful  miniature  dragon,  and  one  year  the 
prize  was  won  by  a  large  and  vigorous  cockroach  trigged  out 
with  melon  seeds. 

A  little  later,  on  the  fifteenth  of  the  eighth  month,  occurs  the 
Moon  Fpost.  when  moon-ghaped  cakes  are  baked  in  quantity. 


82 


HandbooJf  for  San  Francisco 


Joss  papers  are  scattered  abroad,  and  the  moon  is  worshipped 
with  the  most  beautiful  creations  of  the  lantern  makers  swung 
from  windows  and  balconies. 

Toward  the  end  of  the  year  occurs  the  Seew  Yee,  or  sac- 
rifice of  clothing;  but  it  is  only  burned  in  paper  effigy,  includ- 
ing representations  of  the  chests  in  which  it  is  kept,   and  with 


^  oLNc  (  iii\  \ 


the  canny  purpose  of  getting  back  fresh  apparel  from  the  gods. 
The  burning  is  likely  to  occur  in  Spofford  or  Ross  Alley, 
unless,  with  their  altered  political  institutions,  our  Oriental 
neighbors  think  it  necessary  to  change  their  ancient  rites  in  this 
respect. 

The  guides  take  tourists  to  a  few  show  places  we  have  not 
attempted  to  describe,  like  the  home  of  the  Singing  Children, 
where  four  little  tykes  sing  such  Oriental  arias  as  "Jungle 
Town"  and  "I'd  Leave  My  Happy  Home  for  You."  We 
have  heard  them  better  rendered.     Then  there  is  the  old  Chinese 


A   Walk  Along  the  Water  Front  83 

musician  who  lives  in  a  cellar,  and  plays  the  Chinese  zither, 
flute,  mandolin,  snake-skin  banjo  and  two-stringed  fiddle ;  exe- 
cuting "Marching  Through  Georgia"  and  other  classics. 

But  one  can  not  satisfy  his  interest  in  one  visit  to  any  two 
or  twenty  definite  points.  It  is  the  community  life  that  must 
be  sensed,  the  hundred  variations  of  practice,  habit  and  custom, 
manners   and   art,   to   make   the   thing  really   enjoyable. 


WALKS  ABOUT  SAN  FRANCISCO. 
///. — The  Water  Front  and  Telegraph  Hill 

To  those  who  delight  in  scenes  that  wake  the  imagination, 
a  morning's  tramp  along  the  water  front,  with  a  good,  breath- 
ing finish  up  Telegraph  Hill,  will  be  a  source  of  keen  delight. 
Top  it  with  a  luncheon  at  a  Latin  Quarter  restaurant  and 
you  will  begin  to  get  the  flavor  of  San  Francisco. 

Take  the  Third  street  cars  anywhere  along  Kearny  or 
Third  street,  or  by  transfer  from  any  Market  street  car,  and 
get  ofl'  at  Berry,  two  blocks  below  the  Southern  Pacific  depot. 
As  you  ride  down  this  street,  remember  that  every  brick  and 
girder  of  every  building  (except  at  the  corner  of  Mission  where 
one  steel  structure  survived)  is  new  construction  since  the  great 
fire.  Steel  frame  and  brick  structures  were  left  standing, 
but  "improvements"  on  Third  street  and  neighboring  thorough- 
fares built,  of  old,  in  wood,  were  mowed  down  to  their  gaping 
cellars. 

Leaving  the  car  where  it  turns  southwestward  into  Berry 
street,  walk  down  to  the  big  bascule  bridge  with  the  Santa  Fe 
sign  on  it,  across  the  "Channel."  The  Channel  is  an  ancient 
slough,  once  connected  with  Mission  creek,  now  given  over 
mainly  to  the  receipt  of  lumber. 

Go  back  to  Townsend  street  and  follow  it  northeasterly  to 
the  Embarcadero.  On  the  way,  at  the  corner  of  Townsend 
and  Second  streets,  is  a  handsome  concrete  building  with  four 


84  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

tall  stacks  that  typifies  the  enterprise,  energy  and  efficiency  of 
the  new  San  Francisco.  This  is  Pumping  Station  No.  I  of  the 
Auxiliary)  High  Pressure  Fire  Protection  S})stem. 

The  entrance  is  around  the  corner,  on  Second  street,  and 
the  pubhc  is  admitted  to  the  httle  gallery  overlooking  the 
gigantic  water  tube  boilers  and  the  turbine  pumps  and  engines. 
The  other  salt  water  pumping  station  is  across  the  city  at 
Black  Point. 

Second  street  will  take  you  southeast  to  the  Mail  Docl^s. 
Here  you  will  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  great  business  that  is 
done  upon  the  waters  by  some  of  the  few  remaining  Ameri- 
can ships  in  the  foreign  trade ;  see  the  silks,  tea,  mattings 
and  rice  and  tin  from  the  Orient  coming  ashore  in  big  slings 
and  being  put  aboard  trains,  and  the  cotton,  hardware  and  other 
home  commodities  going  back  to  pay  for  it. 

From  this  point  to  Quarantine,  by  way  of  the  Embarcadero, 
it  is  a  good  three  miles  along  "the  front,"  and  every  step  is 
full  of  interest.  Here  you  will  note  the  ebb  and  flow  of  that 
abundant  traffic  with  far  lands  and  strange  places  which  has 
given  San  Francisco  much  of  its  romance  and  its  charm,  and 
has  made  the  modern  city  possible. 

The  rvater  front  is  rough,  alcoholic  and  unpretty,  but  it 
swarms  with  men  of  brawn  and  nerve,  rovers  with  the  scope 
and  vision  of  the  broad  Pacific  in  their  brains,  from  cocoanut 
islands  in  southern  waters  to  the  treaty  ports  of  China,  and  the 
Arctic  ice  where  they  hunt  the  few  remaining  whales.  The 
whole  run  of  it  reeks  with  briny  adventure.  It  furnished  Stev- 
enson with  the  atmosphere  of  the  "Wrecker,"  Frank  Norris 
with  the  theme  of  "Moran  of  the  Lady  Letty,"  Jack  London 
with  his  seal  poacher,  the  "Sea  Wolf,"  and  Gelett  Burgess  and 
Wallace  Irwin  with  the  plots  and  counter-plots  of  the  "Pica- 
roon." 

San  Francisco  is  particularly  fortunate  in  the  fact  that  its 
docks  are  not  privately  owned,  but  are  administered  by  the 
State.  Nearly  seven  million  tons  of  freight  a  year  are  handled 
over  the  wharves  at  San  Francisco. 


A   Walk  Along  the  Water  Front  85 

Though  steam  has  almost  supplanted  the  sail  on  the  cargo 
carriers  of  the  world,  the  bowsprit  of  many  an  old  "wind- 
jammer" is  poked  across  the  seawall  at  San  Francisco,  and 
able  seamen  can  still  be  found  here  that  know  what  it  is  to 
lay  aloft  and  shorten  sail  in  a  Cape  Horn  gale. 

On  a  bluff  to  your  left,  which  is  old  Rincon  Point,  is  an 
old,  square,  brick  building  with  porches  overlooking  the  activi- 
ties of  the  harbor.  It  is  the  Sailors'  Home,  the  old  U.  S. 
Marine  Hospital,  built  by  the  Federal  Government  in  1853, 
during  the  administration  of  President  Franklin  Pierce. 

SOMETIMES  A  WHALER. 

Farther  on,  at  the  foot  of  Howard  street,  one  can  sometimes 
find,  in  early  spring,  an  old  whaler,  recognizable  by  its  tapering 
spars,  its  crow's  nest  aloft,  and  its  rows  of  timber  davits 
from  which  hang  the  slim  whale-boats.  A  little  later  in  the 
year  they  will  all  be  gone. 

After  the  coal  bunkers,  and  colliers  discharging,  one  comes 
to  the  Ferry  Post  Office,  and  then  the  Ferry  building,  which 
deserves  more  than  passing  mention. 

This  building  is  San  Francisco's  water  gate  and  union  depot 
as  well,  and  is  one  of  the  great  gateways  of  world  travel.  At 
its  eight  slips,  there  are  1  70  arrivals  and  departures  of  ferry 
boats  every  twenty-four  hours,  bearing  over  1 06,000  people 
into  and  out  of  the  city. 

The  Ferry  building  itself  is  an  imposing  structure,  and  the 
nave  on  the  second  story  is  48  feet  wide  and  650  feet  long. 
Here  President  McKinley  was  welcomed,  midwinter  flower 
shows  have  been  held,  conventions  have  been  received  and  the 
delegates  registered,  and  California's  soldier  boys  returning 
from  the  Philippines  were  banqueted.  In  the  floor  is  a  mosaic 
representing  the  Great  Seal  of  California,  and  on  the  wall 
nearby  hangs  an  account  of  its  origin  and  a  statement  of  its 
allegorical  meaning.  The  California  Development  Board  has 
its  headquarters  here.  The  Ferry  building  also  houses  the 
California  State   Mining   Bureau,   with   its  offices,   its  library, 


86 


Handbook  for  San  Francisco 


ALONG  "THK  FKONT." 


Weidner,   photo. 


and  its  immense  collection  of  mineral  specimens.  Both  these  in- 
stitutions will  be  described  later. 

You  have  been  passing  Telegraph  Hill  on  your  left,  and 
now  come  to  the  Quarantine  station,  the  barge  office  of  the 
Custom  House,  and  the  marine  reporting  station  of  the  Cham- 
ber of  Commerce,  which  furnishes  a  marine  news  service  that  is 
one  of  the  most  complete  and  effective  m  any  port  m  the  world. 

Directly  beyond  the  marine  reporting  station  is  Fisherniens 
Wharf,  always  a  busy  scene,  with  swarms  of  Greek  and 
Italian  fishermen  working  at  their  nets  and  gear,  or  landing 
their  catches.     See  index. 

No  one  should  leave  San  Francisco  without  visiting  this 
locality  which  reproduces  in  detail  the  life  aspect  of  a  south 
Italian    fishing  port. 

In  your  three-mile  tramp  around  the  "front"'  you  have  been 
getting  sectional   views   of  the  panorama   of  the   bay   and  the 


A   Walk  Along  the  Water  Front  87 

opposite  shores,  beautiful  sea-vistas  that  make  you  hungry  for 
a  vision  of  the  whole.  Climb  Telegraph  Hill  and  you  will 
get  it.  Retrace  your  steps  to  the  foot  of  Powell  street,  turn 
south  to  Greenwich,  just  south  of  the  children's  playground, 
and  then  turn  east  on  Greenwich,  which  will  lead  you  by  rough 
ways,  through  a  thickly  settled  tenement  district,  past  quaint 
Good  Children  street,  to  Pioneer  Park  at  the  top. 

A  SUPERB  SCENE. 

From  this  point,  300  feet  above  the  water,  the  marine  re- 
porting of  early  days  was  done  by  semaphore ;  when  there 
was  no  overland  railroad,  when  ships  were  few  and  far  be- 
tween, and  every  arrival  meant  the  possibility  of  messages  from 
loved  ones  in  "the  states,"  or  the  coming  of  wife  and  chil- 
dren to  share  the  fortune  cf  the  mines  and  make  a  home  in 
California. 

The  counterpart  of  Telegraph  Hill  exists  in  no  other  large 
city  in  the  United  States.  No  one  can  begin  to  know  San 
Francisco  until  he  has  climbed  it. 

From  the  top  you  can  see  the  imperial  city  of  San  Fran- 
cisco in  its  most  interesting  aspect.  You  can  see  the  docks 
and  the  shipping,  brought  into  one  view.  You  can  see  the 
grandest  harbor  of  the  grandest  ocean.  You  can  see  the  bold 
sweep  of  the  opposite  shore,  set  with  smaller  cities — Alameda, 
Oakland,  Berkeley,  Pullman,  Richmond — with  the  hills  that 
seem  forever  marching  at  their  backs,  and  Yerba  Buena  island 
in  the  foreground.  You  can  look  straight  north  into  the 
mouth  of  San  Pablo  bay,  through  which  run  the  waters  of 
California's  mighty  rivers,  with  the  red  farallone  standing  like 
a  sentinel  at  its  approach. 

To  the  left.  Angel  island  merges  with  the  Marin  hills, 
behind  which  rises  Tamalpais. 

The  whole  expanse  of  blue  water  is  troubled  with  puffy 
little  tugs,  barges,  great  steamers  entering  or  leaving,  ferry 
boats  weaving  like  shuttles  across  it.  And  westward  is  the 
Golden   Gate,   winding  toward  you  like   the   Bosphorus,   with 


Handbook  for  San  Francisco 


Alcatraz  island  set  like  a  gem,  at  its  inner  end.  Perhaps 
there  will  be  a  full-rigged  ship  from  England  or  from  China 
majestically  moving  through  the  wide  channel,  making  a  picture 
you  will  not  soon  forget. 

Descend  by  way  of  Greenwich  street  to  Kearny,  and  then 
turn  south  on  the  latter  street.  The  neighborhood  is  thickly 
tenanted  and  there  is  no  race  suicide  apparent.  Children  are 
everywhere,  children  whose  mothers  speak  to  them  from  the 
door-steps  in  soft  Italian  or  Spanish,  and  who  reply  in  crisp 
and  startling  English.  For  you  are  entering  the  Latin  Quar- 
ter, going  down  by  steep,  cleated  sidewalks  that  remind  one 
of  Genoa.  The  Italian  pervades  it,  though  Greek,  Sicilian, 
Mexican  and  Spaniard  are  also  in  evidence — people  that  love 
the  sun  and  find  in  San  Francisco  a  congenial  clime. 

The  whole  quarter  is  reminiscent  of  south  Europe,  and  yet  is 
distinctively  San  Franciscan,  for  San  Francisco  is  a  city  of  all 
nations;  of  and  for  all  races  of  men. 


WALKS  ABOUT  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

IV. — Produce  Commission  District,  Nob  Hill  and 
Russian  Hill. 

Directly  west  of  the  wharves  north  of  the  Ferry  building, 
where  the  river  boats  land,  are  four  city  squares  and  parts 
of  two  more,  in  which  about  80  commission  merchants  handle 
millions  of  dollars  worth  of  California  produce  a  year.  1  he 
territory  extends  westerly  from  Drumm  to  Front  streets,  and 
northwardly  from  Clay  to  Jackson,  running  up  Washington 
almost  a  block,  to  Battery. 

This  section  of  the  city  is  worth  seeing  for  the  variety  of 
the  fruits  and  produce  displayed,  and  the  tumultuous  activity 
of  its  business. 

The  dairy  produce  merchants  transact  their  business  on  the 
edges  of  the  fruit  commission  district. 

Facing   Battery   street   and  extending    from   Washington   to 


A    Walk  on  Nob   Hill 89 

Jackson  is  the  United  Stales  Custom  House,  an  impressive 
and  beautiful  structure,  erected  since  the  fire  at  a  cost  of  a 
milhon  and  a  half.  It  is  built  of  granite  and  handsomely  fin- 
ished inside  in  marble  and  bronze.  Here  ships  are  docu- 
mented and  registered,  and  customs  and  internal  revenue  dues 
collected. 

On  the  western  half  of  the  same  block  with  the  Custom 
House  stands  the  brick  pile  known  as  the  Appraisers'  Building. 
It  survived  the  fire,  practically  in  its  present  condition.  For- 
merly it  housed  many  of  the  government  offices  now  in  the 
Custom  House,  but  has  since  been  given  over  to  laboratories, 
store  rooms  and  record  rooms. 

From  the  Appraisers  building  or  the  Custom  House,  go 
south  to  California  street,  then  westward  through  the  financial 
district,  up  through  the  south  end  of  Chinatown,  and  ascend 
to  the  Fairmont  Hotel.  This  neighborhood  is 

Nob  Hill — celebrated  in  the  history  of  the  city  and  well- 
known  wherever  people  are  familiar  with  the  achievements 
of  the  great  figures  of  "Bonanza  days"  and  the  era  of  early 
railroad  construction.  Here  a  group  of  the  Comstock  mil- 
lionaires and  railroad  builders  erected  their  mansions — Mark 
Hopkins,  Leland  Stanford,  James  C.  Flood,  D.  D.  Colton, 
Charles  Crocker  and  W.  H.  Crocker,  his  son,  and  many  more. 
Some  were  gorgeous  palaces,  embellished  in  teak,  ebony,  ivory, 
inlaid  pearl-shell  and  bronze,  with  mural  tapestries  and  paintings 
by  celebrated  European  artists.  They  were  all  swept  away  by 
the  mounting  flames  except  the  mansion  of  James  C.  Flood,  a 
"brown-stone  front,"  that  stands  across  the  street  from  the 
Fairmont  Hotel.  The  Flood  home,  remodeled  and  some- 
what enlarged,  is  now  the  beautiful  Pacific  Union  club. 

At  the  southwest  corner  of  California  and  Powell  streets, 
where  the  Leland  Stanford  residence  once  stood,  is  now  being 
erected  the  largest  apartment  house  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  a 
gigantic  structure  that  will  cost  over  a  million.  A  block  away 
the   San    Francisco    Institute   of   Art   occupies   the   site   of   the 


90  Handbool(  for  San  Francisco 

Mark  Hopkins  mansion,  at  the  southeast  corner  of  California 
and  Powell  streets. 

In  the  block  between  Taylor  and  Jones  streets,  beyond  the 
Pacific  Union  Club,  is  the  divinity  school  connected  with 
Grace  Pro-Cathedral,  of  the  Episcopal  diocese.  It  is  part  of 
what  will  be  the  most  important  establishment  of  the  Episcopal 
church  in  the  West.  Grace  Cathedral  will  rise  at  the  corner  of 
Jones  street.  It  will  be  in  the  beautiful  English  Gothic  style, 
with  a  central  tower  rising  230  feet,  or  higher  than  any  other 
structure  on  Nob  Hill.  At  present  the  crypt  is  being  used  tem- 
porarily as  a  place  of  worship. 

This  block  of  land  was  formerly  occupied  by  the  homes 
of  Charles  Crocker  and  \V.  H.  Crocker,  and  was  a  gift  from 
the  heirs  of  Charles  Crocker  to  the  Episcopal  church. 

Every  hill-top  in  San  Francisco  shifts  the  scenes  and  sets 
the  stage  anew.  Fine  as  the  view  is  from  the  vicinity  of  Cali- 
fornia  and   Mason   streets,   it  is  even   better   from  the   top   of 

Russian  Hill.  Take  Taylor  street  northward  to  Vallejo. 
A  few  stone  steps  here  will  put  you  on  the  zig-zag  trail  to  the 
top. 

Russian  Hill  is  part  of  a  ridge  with  two  distinct  crests,  one 
at  Vallejo  between  Taylor  and  Jones,  and  the  other  at  Green- 
wich and  Hyde  streets.  Here  also  was  the  abode  of  an 
aristocracy,  but  an  earlier  one  than  that  which  built  up  Nob 

Hill. 

Beyond  the  industrial  foreground  of  North  Beach,  smoking 
with  the  energy  of  its  factories,  the  view  is  one  of  splendor. 
The  long  moles  running  out  from  the  opposite  shore ;  the 
cities  behind  them;  Yerba  Buena  island.  Point  Richmond 
with  its  oil  tanks  and  its  growing  industries,  the  straits  con- 
necting with  San  Pablo  bay,  and  then  Alcatraz  island.  Angel 
island  behind  it,  Richardson's  bay  with  Tamalpais  for  its  back- 
ground— all  these  would  be  beautiful  enough  for  a  most  ex- 
traordinary picture.  But  turning  to  the  left  one  sees  the  Golden 
Gate  in  one  of  its  most  graceful  aspects,  like  a  broad,  wind- 
ing stream,  with  Fort  Point  thrusting  into  it  from  the  southern 


B^   Trolley  and  Cable 


91 


shore,  and  just  in  front  the  grounds  of  the  Exposition,   while 
across  the  Gate  rise  the  bold  hills  of  Marin  county. 

If  this  ramble  has  led  you  far  enough,  take  the  cable  car  on 
Hyde  street,  south  bound,  which  will  deliver  you  at  the  cor- 
ner of  Market  and  O'Farrell  streets,  on  the  edge  of  the  shop- 
ping district;  or  you  can  transfer  from  it  to  the  California  street 


ALCATRAZ   ISLAND   FROM   RUSSIAN   HILL. 

cable  line,  east  bound,  and  be  carried  over  the  crest  of  Nob 
hill  and  down  to  the  financial  center  at  California  and  Mont- 
gomery streets. 


HOW  TO  SEE  SAN   FRANCISCO   BY   TROLLEY 
AND  CABLE. 

STREET    RAILWAYS. 

Three   companies   operate   street   car   lines   in   this   city ;   the 

United  Railroads  of  San  Francisco,   the  Presidio   &  Ferries, 

and  the  California  Street  Cable  Railwa]),  which  operates  also 

the  Hyde  and  O'Farrell  street  line.      In  addition  to  these  pri- 


92  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

vate  corporations  the  city  operates  the  Geary  Street  Municipal 
Railroad,  from  the  Ferry  to  the  Ocean  Beach,  with  an  exten- 
sion over  Tenth  avenue  to  Golden  Gate  Park. 

Transfer  points  are  too  numerous  to  mention,  there  being 
a  generous  interchange  between  the  different  companies  where 
they  do  not  parallel  one  another's  lines,  and,  on  any  given  sys- 
tem, between  different  routes  in  the  same  general  direction. 
This  enables  one  to  get  about  the  city  at  will  for  a  single 
fare,   generally  speaking. 

Most  lines  of  the  United  Railroads  carry  a  number  on  a 
square  lantern  on  the  roof.  No  lines  other  than  the  lines  of 
this  company  are  numbered  at  this  date. 

On  the  Geary  street  line,  cars  marked  A  run  from  the  Fer- 
ries to  the  Park,  those  marked  B,  to  the  Beach. 

The  California  Street  Cable  railroad  runs  from  the  junc- 
tion of  Market  and  California  streets,  near  the  Ferry,  out 
California  street  to  Presidio  avenue,  where  it  transfers  to  lines 
of  the  United  Railroads  for  the  Richmond  district.  Golden 
Gate  Park  or  the  Cliff.  It  transfers  also  to  the  Hyde  & 
O'Farrell  street  cars  at  Hyde. 

The  Hyde  and  O'Farrell  street  line  runs  from  the  junction 
of  Market  and  O'Farrell  streets,  out  O'Farrell  to  Jones,  on 
Jones  north  to  Pine,  on  Pine  to  Hyde,  and  north  on  Hyde  to 
Beach.  An  extension  from  Market  and  Jones  meets  the 
O'Farrell  street  line  at  Jones  and  O'Farrell  streets. 

All  Hyde  street  cars  transfer  at  Hyde  and  Union  streets 
to  the  Presidio  &  Ferries  line,  which  runs  from  the  Ferry  to  the 
Presidio  by  way  of  Washington  street,  Columbus  avenue. 
Union,  Larkin,  Vallejo,  Franklin  and  Union  streets. 

Generally  cars  stop  at  near  crossings.  Exceptions  are  indi- 
cated by  stop  signs  on  the  trolley  wire. 

Except  on  leaving  Market  street,  they  stop  before  curves,  and 
this  is  the  rule  for  entering  Market. 

As  a  rule,  if  you  need  a  transfer  ask  for  it  on  entering  the 
car.  On  the  California  street  line,  transfers  are  issued  on 
approaching  the  transfer  corner. 


By  Trolley  and  Cable  93 

Most  of  the  trolley  cars  operated  in  San  Francisco  are  of 
the  pay-as-you-enter  type,  and  it  will  facilitate  locomotion 
if  you  will  have  your  nickel  ready. 

TROLLEY  TRIP  NO.    1 . 

I.  Noh  Hill,  the  Colden  Gate,  Land's  End,  Sutro  Heights, 
Sutro  Baths,  Cliff  House  and  Seal  Rocf^s. 

Take  California  street  cable  car  going  west,  and  transfer  at 
Presidio  avenue  to  trolley  line  No.  I,  marked  ''Cliff,''  con- 
tinuing west  on  California  street.  Return  by  the  same  line,  but 
omit  the  transfer  coming  back. 

The  route  will  take  you  through  the  edge  of  Chinatown, 
over  the  top  of  Nob  Hill,  where  the  Comstock  and  railroad 
millionaires  built  their  mansions,  out  to  old  Lone  Mountain 
Cemetery,  where  many  of  them  built  their  mausoleums,  through 
the  Richmond  district,  along  the  bluffs  overlooking  the  Golden 
Gate  and  to  a  point  within  easy  walking  distance  of  the  Cliff 
House  and  the  Sutro  Gardens,  Museum  and  Baths. 

At  the  corner  of  Grant  avenue,  the  line  passes  "Old  St. 
Mary's,"  once  the  cathedral,  built  early  in  the  "fifties."  On 
the  two  west  corners  of  California  street  and  Grant  avenue 
stand  Chinese  bazaars,  with  pagoda-like  pavilions  on  their 
roofs,  forming  an  Oriental  entrance  to  the  Chinese  quarter, 
which  one  can  see  looking  northward  up  Grant  avenue. 

Mounting  the  east  slope  of  Nob  Hill,  you  soon  raise  Tele- 
graph Hill,  to  the  northeast,  and  catch  a  glimpse  of  Yerba 
Buena  Island  to  eastward.  The  handsome  brick  structure  at 
the  east  corner  of  Powell  street  is  the  University  Club.  Across 
Powell  street  is  the  Fairmont  Hotel,  and  on  the  southwest  cor- 
ner of  California  and  Powell  streets,  opposite  the  Fairmont, 
is  Stanford  Court,  the  largest  apartment  building  on  the  Pacific 
Coast.  It  is  rising  on  the  site  of  the  residence  of  Governor 
Stanford,  one  of  the  "Big  Four"  that  built  the  first  overland 
railroad,  who  left  the  bulk  of  his  large  estate  to  found  Leland 
Stanford  Junior  University. 


94  Handbook  for  San   Francisco 

Northward  up  Powell  street,  the  tip  of  Angel  Island  ap- 
pears.    Southward  is  a  view  over  the  city  and  the  south  bay. 

The  brownstone  building  beyond  the  Fairmont  and  on  the 
same  side  of  the  street  is  the  home  of  the  Pacific  Union  Club, 
and  was  formerly  the  residence  of  James  C.  Flood,  partner  of 
W.  S.  O  Brien  in  the  amassing  of  much  wealth  from  the 
Comstock  mines. 

At  the  southeast  corner  of  California  and  Mason  streets  is 
the  San  Francisco  Institute  of  Art,  on  the  site  of  the  residence 
of  Mark  Hopkins,  another  of  the  railroad  "Big  Four." 

The  white  building  on  the  west  side  of  Taylor  street,  north 
of  California,  the  right-hand  side  going  out,  is  the  Divinity 
ScJiool  connected  with  Grace  Pro-Cathedral,  and  part  of  what 
is  to  be  the  most  important  ecclesiastical  establishment  of  the 
Episcopal  church  in  the  West. 

The  cathedral  itself  will  rise  at  the  corner  of  Jones  and 
California.     At  present  services  are  held  in  the  crypt. 

At  Van  Ness  avenue,  the  red  sandstone  building  a  block 
north  is  the  family  residence  of  the  late  Claus  Spreckels,  the 
sugar  king. 

At  the  next  northeast  corner  is  the  Christian  Science  Church, 
handsome  in  composition,  and  bright  in  color,  with  walls  of 
varigated  brick. 

At  Webster  street  is  the  synagogue  of  the  Congregation 
Sherith  Israel,  a  dignified  structure,  part  of  which  served  as  a 
hall  of  justice  after  the  fire.  To  the  north  of  the  synagogue, 
on  Webster  at  the  corner  of  Sacramento,  are  Cooper  Medical 
College  and  Lane  Hospital,  now  the  medical  department  of 
Stanford  University, 

At  Presidio  avenue  transfer  to  Sutter  street  Line  No.  /, 
marked  "Cliff.'" 

The  cemetery  on  the  south  side  of  the  street  at  this  point 
is  Laurel  Hill,  known  to  the  older  San  Franciscans  as  "Lone 
Mountain  Cemetery,''  about  which  you  can  find  more  by  con- 
sulting the  index. 


Bp  Trolley  and  Cable  95 

The  low  wooded  hills  that  appear  to  the  north  are  part  of 
the  Presidio,  founded  by  the  Spaniards  as  a  military  post. 
The  Presidio  is  the  largest  military  reservation  in  the  country 
within  city  limits,  and  covers  1,542  acres.  The  north  shore 
runs  out  in  a  long,  narrow  tongue  of  land  known  as  Fort  Point, 
with  Fort  W infield  Scott  at  its  tip.  The  reservation  is  con- 
nected with  Golden  Gate  Park  by  a  parked  strip  which  the 
car  crosses  at  Thirteenth  and  Fourteenth  avenues. 

North  of  the  Presidio,  the  Marin  county  hills  and  the  sum- 
mit of  Ml.  Tamalpais  begin  to  tower.  Soon  the  car  rounds 
a  bend  to  the  east  of  the  old  city  cemetery,  and  the  whole 
Golden  Gate  swings  into  the  landscape,  a  superb  marine  view 
in  a  frame  of  bold  hills. 

This  is  close  acquaintance  with  the  famous  strait,  which 
appears  here  in  its  loveliest  aspect.  Baiter's  Beach  stretches 
back  toward  Fort  Scott.  Beyond  is  Angel  Island,  on  which 
are  located  Fort  McDotvell,  the  United  State  Immigration 
Station,  and  the  Discharge  Camp  of  the  Army,  where  dis- 
charged soldiers,  returning  from  the  Philippines,  are  temporarily 
quartered.  North  of  Angel  Island  one  looks  through  Raccoon 
Straits,  a  short  cut  for  vessels  entering  the  harbor  and  bound 
"up  river  direct." 

The  channel  is  full  of  life  and  movement — the  life  and 
movement  of  vast  volumes  of  water,  and  of  vessels  of  all  sorts 
and  sizes,  from  the  gasoline  launch  or  lateen  rigged  smack  of 
the  herring  fleet,  to  the  great  liners  plying  between  San  Fran- 
cisco and  Hong  Kong  or  Yokohama,  and  "wind  jammers" 
outward  bound  for  Liverpool  or  Antwerp. 

Beyond  the  Forty-eighth  avenue  terminus  of  the  car  line. 
Point  Lobos  avenue  winds  around  a  large  bluff  to  connect  with 
the  Great  Highway  along  the  beach.  On  the  left,  as  you 
begin  to  descend,  is  the  entrance  to  Sutro  Heights.  This  beau- 
tiful place,  with  its  palm  avenues,  its  rare  trees  and  brilliant 
flowers,  its  reproductions  of  classic  sculpture  ornamenting  shaded 
retreats,  its  esplanades  and  balconies  200  feet  above  the  sea, 
with  their  grand  views  of  ocean  and  beach  and  mountain  chain. 


96 


Handbook  for  San  Francisco 


IN   SUTRO    GARDENS. 


is  the  private  garden  surrounding  the  home  of  the  late  Adolph 
Sutro,  former  Mayor  of  San  Francisco;  the  man  that  drove 
the  famous  tunnel  into  the  Comstock  lode,  unwatering  the 
mines  and  reopening  their  treasure  houses.  It  is  and  has  been, 
ever  since  its  creation  out  of  the  barren  hills,  open  to  the  public, 
through  the  munificence  of  Mr.  Sutro  during  his  life  and  the 
continuance  of  the  same  generous  policy  by  the  members  of 
his  family. 

To  westward  of  the  residence  will  be  found  a  broad  terrace 
surrounded  by  the  Parapet,  on  which  stand  life-size  mytholog- 
ical figures,  some  of  them  copied  from  the  most  famous  statues 
in  Europe.  The  view  over  the  sea,  and  up  and  down  the 
coast  is  nothing  less  than  wondrous  in  its  beauty. 

Leave  the  Parapet  and  descend  by  the  rock  stairway  to  the 
right.  This  will  take  you  to  the  Balcony  and  boardwalk.  For 
three  miles  you  can  look  down  a  straight,  uninterrupted  line  of 
pounding  breakers  and  sheets  of  swimming  foam,  making  one 
of  the  most  sublime  and  inspiring  scenes  to  be  found. 


B^  Trolle))  and  Cable  97 

The  entrance  to  the  garden  is  the  only  pubhc  exit.  Farther 
down  Point  Lobos  avenue,  on  the  right,  are  the  Sulro  Baths 
and  Museum.  Here  is  a  vast  structure  covering  nearly  three 
acres  of  ground  and  containing  the  largest  indoor  swimming 
tanks  ever  built. 

The  area  devoted  to  bathing  purposes  is  153  by  285  feet. 
The  northeasterly  part  is  divided  into  five  tanks,  of  which 
four  are  28  feet  wide  by  78  feet  long,  and  the  fifth  the  same 
length  and  45  feet  in  width.  The  rest  of  the  bathing  area 
forms  an  L-shaped  pool,  285  feet  long  and  75  feet  wide,  for 
157  feet,  when  it  merges  into  the  base  of  the  L,  and  runs  153 
feet  wide  for  1 28  feet.  In  addition,  there  is  a  fresh-water 
plunge. 

The  Museum,  disposed  along  the  promenade  and  galleries, 
contains  some  notable  displays. 

The  building  of  these  baths  and  the  installation  of  this  col- 
lection was  one  of  the  last  undertakings  of  Mr.  Sutro,  who 
died  in  I  898,  two  years  after  the  gigantic  structure  was  com- 
pleted. 

Just  below  the  baths  and  museum  are  the  Cliff  House  and 
Seal  Rocks.  This  vicinity  is  world-renowned.  It  has  been 
the  scene  of  the  lavish  gaieties  of  San  Franciscans  for  genera- 
tions. To  this  place  in  the  past  they  drove  their  pairs  of 
blooded  trotters,  and  here  they  come  today  with  the  high- 
powered  autos. 

From  the  porch  of  the  Cliff  House,  Presidents  Grant,  Hayes, 
Harrison  and  McKinley  have  watched  the  sea  lions  lolling  on 
the  rocks. 

The  present  Cliff  House  is  the  third  of  a  series,  and  was 
erected  in  1909,  its  immediate  predecessor  having  burned  in 
1907,  the  year  after  the  great  fire. 

The  Cliff  House  is  a  restaurant,  not  a  hotel.  There  is  a 
good  cafe  here,  from  whose  windows  one  looks  out,  while  din- 
mg,   on   the   glories  of  beach   and   surf,   ocean   and  mountains 


98  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

and  rocky  coast.  The  public  is  welcome,  under  the  present 
management,  to  descend  the  stone  stairs  to  the -broad  terrace, 
whence  one  sees  across  300  feet  of  swirling  tide  those  curious 
marine  objects,  the  Seal  Roc!(s,  and  their  colonies  of  gulls, 
cormorants  and  sea  lions. 

These  last  are  of  "His  wonders  on  the  deep."  Their  huge, 
obese  bodies,  like  apoplectic  aldermen,  dragged  laboriously 
about  the  crags ;  their  small  and  winsome  dogs'  heads  reared 
with  the  grace  of  a  fine  setter ;  their  hideous  black  flippers  so 
pitifully  inadequate  for  scaling  rocks ;  their  handsome  coats  ol 
brown,  drying  in  the  sun  or  soaked  and  gleaming  with  the 
spray,  make  an  absurd  but  fascinating  combination  of  grace 
and  awkwardness,  of  ugliness  and  beauty,  that  one  can  watch 
and  wonder  at  by  the  hour. 

At  Forty-seventh  avenue  and  Balboa  street,  within  easy 
walking  distance  of  the  Cliff  House,  is  the  Golden  Gate  Ostrich 
Farm,  with  incubators  for  the  huge  eggs,  and  with  a  rapidly 
growing  flock. 

We  would  advise  visitors  to  return  by  the  line  of  cars  that 
took  them  "out  to  the  Cliff,"  as  no  other  is  quite  so  beautiful 
as  the  run  along  the  bluffs  from  Baker's  Beach  to  Point  Lobos. 


TROLLEY   TRIP    NO.    2. 

Market  street.  Park  Panhandle,  Affiliated  Colleges  and  the 
Heights  overlooking  the  Sunset  District  and  the  Pacific  Ocean; 
returning  h^  the  Trvin  Peaks  Srvitch-hack- 

Take  Ha})es  street  line  No.  6,  marked  ''Ninth  Avenue,''  at 
the  Ferry,  or  anywhere  on  Market  street,  going  rvestivard. 
Returning,  transfer  at  Ashhury  street  to  car  going  south,  and 
transfer  again  at  Eighteenth  to  Castro  street  Car  No.  8,  going 
toward  Ferry.     Ask  fof  yow"  transfer  on  hoarding  car. 

This  route  will  take  you  through  the  heart  of  the  city,  and 
to   a   six-hundred-foot   elevation   beyond    Twin  Peaks.      From 


By  Trolley  and  Cable  99 

the  terminus  a  short  walk  will  put  you  on  a  rocky  promontory 
750  feet  high,  whence  there  is  a  sublime  prospect  of  mountain, 
sand  dune  and  ocean.  The  return  will  show  part  of  the  city 
and  the  bay. 

Running  out  Market  street,  the  car  passes  Marshall  Square, 
the  entrance  to  the  old  city  hall  site,  which  is  on  the  right, 
with  the  James  Lick  Monument  to  the  Pioneers,  and  a  bronze 
cannon  taken  from  the  Spaniards  at  Santiago  de  Cuba.  The 
red  dome  rising  just  eastward  of  the  city  hall  site  is  the  roof 
of  the  Hall  of  Records. 

At  the  east  end  of  the  Park  Panhandle  one  sees  the  McKin- 
ley  Monument  to  "Peace,"  and  the  Southern  Pacific  Hospital 
on  the  farther  side. 

Beyond  the  Affiliated  Colleges  the  car  runs  along  the  west- 
ern slope  of  Blue  Mountain,  now  called  Mt.  Sutro,  a  forested 
hill  that  rises  on  the  left  to  a  height  of  920  feet.  The  build- 
ings at  its  base,  east  of  the  terminus,  are  the  County  Relief 
Home  for  the  Aged  and  Infirm,  and  the  Infirmary,  temporarily 
used  as  the  City  and  County  Hospital. 

From  the  end  of  the  car  line  at  Pacheco  street  and  Ninth 
avenue,  walk  south  to  Mendoza  street,  climb  the  hill  to  the 
water  tank,  and  thence  follow  the  crest  of  the  ridge  out  to  a 
rocky  point,  beyond  the  flag  pole.  This  point  is  over  750  feet 
above  the  ocean  and  opens  an  unobstructed  panorama  north, 
south  and  west. 

No  other  view  within  the  limits  of  a  city  combines  in  equal 
degree  features  of  such  sublimity  with  others  of  such  delicate 
and  quiet  beauty.  The  first  object  to  the  extreme  right  is 
Alcatraz  Island.  To  the  north  looms  Tamalpais,  hazy  and 
blue  in  the  distance,  its  lower  slopes  hidden  by  the  nearer  hills. 
That  famous  waterway,  the  Golden  Gate,  shines  like  a  rib- 
bon of  blued  steel  at  their  feet.  Then  come  the  Presidio, 
Golden  Gate  Park  with  its  slowly  turning  windmills,  and,  closer 
in,  an  immensity  of  rolling  dunes  with  picture  patches  of  vegeta- 
tion here  and  there.  Homes  and  cultivation  appear,  suburban 
gardens  and  tree-planted  tracts. 


1  00  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

Directly  west  are  the  three-hundred-foot  towers  of  the  Poul- 
son  wireless  telegraph. 

Southwestward  are  the  two  shining  wings  of  Lake  Merced, 
and  still  farther  south  the  San  Bruno  hills  send  out  their  sloping 
buttresses  and  steep  escarpments  toward  the  sea. 

Beyond,  and  all  along,  making  the  most  wonderful  and 
unforgettable  part  of  the  picture,  is  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and 
nowhere  can  a  deeper  impression  of  its  majesty  be  felt  than 
here.  One  sees  it  throughout  a  sweep  of  1  80  degrees.  Distance 
and  the  altitude  level  the  waves,  and  nothing  breaks  the  crystal 
plain  except  the  far-off  dots  of  rock  that  form  the  outposts  of 
the  Gulf  of  the  Farallones. 

If  this  grandeur  oppresses,  quieter  beauties  lie  below.  Ris- 
ing gently  through  the  sloping  valley  to  the  south  are  truck 
farms,  windmg  among  wooded  areas ;  little  squares  of  choco- 
late-colored tilth,  or  framed  harmonies  in  the  lush  greens  of 
market  gardens,  with  the  forms  and  composition  of  those  Eng- 
lish landscapes  that  tempted  the  burins  of  the  old  engravers. 

Backward,  to  the  east,  can  be  seen  a  glimpse  of  the  southern 
end  of  the  bay;  and  between  the  crests  of  Twin  Peaks,  the  tip 
of  Ml  Diablo. 

Sunset  in  the  ocean,  seen  from  this  point  in  winter,  or 
when  summer  fogs  hang  low  and  reflect  the  fiery  glare  of 
level  rays,  is  indescribable  in  words,  and  the  painter  that  should 
put  it  on  canvas  would  be  suspected  of  romanticism. 

Naturally,  one  wishes  to  see  beyond  those  sharp  peaks  to 
eastward.     On  the  return  trip  take  a  transfer  and 

Change  at  Ashbur^  street  to  the  southbound  car  marked 
"Third  and  Harrison  and  Park-"  Ask  for  another  transfer 
on  boarding  the  car. 

The  car  runs  behind  Mount  Olympus,  with  its  statue  of 
Liberty,  and  emerges  on  the  east  face  of  Twin  Peaks,  passing 
just  below  the  Ashbur])  Reservoir  of  the  city's  auxiliary  salt- 
water fire  protection  system.  This  tank  holds  half  a  million 
gallons,  and  connects  with  75  miles  of  cast-iron  pipe  covering 
pearly  all  of  San  Francisco.     It  is  fed  from  the  Main  Reservoir 


By  Trolley  and  Cable  101 

of  the  system,  on  the  Peaks  above,  which  holds  ten  milHon 
gallons  and  forms  the  hydrostatic  head  of  what  Charles  M. 
Schwab  on  a  recent  visit  characterized  as  one  of  the  greatest 
pieces  of  engineering  work  in  the  world. 

The  car  runs  to  a  switch-back  on  the  west  slope  of  Twin 
Peaks  and  then  winds  down  to  Eighteenth  street,  affording  as 
it  does  so,  a  grand  vista  of  the  bay  and  the  hills  of  the  opposite 
shore,  as  well  as  the  Mission  and  Potrero  districts  of  the  city. 
At  the  corner  of  Eighteenth  and  Castro  streets. 

Change  to  northbound  car  "8"  for  the  Ferry,  which  will 
take  you  down  Market  street. 

At  the  head  of  Van  Ness  avenue,  which  you  will  pass 
coming  in,  is  the  citizens'  monument  to  the  California  Volun- 
teers of  the  Spanish-American  War. 

On  the  northwest  corner  of  Van  Ness  avenue  and  Oak 
street  rises  the  stately  and  beautiful  Masonic  Temple. 

Even  an  average  walker  can  get  a  glorious  view  of  the  city, 
the  ocean  and  the  entire  bay  region  from  the  top  of  Twin 
Peaks,  easily  accessible  from  the  switch-back,  or  at  the  Fire 
Department  house  nearby. 

TROLLEY   TRIP    NO.    3. 

Nob  Hill,  Chinatown,  Fishermen  s  Wharf,  Crab  and  Fish 
Market,  North  Beach,  Marine  Reporting  Station  of  the  Cham- 
ber of  Commerce,  Immigration  Station,  Custom  House  Station, 
Quarantine ;  Latin  Quarter,  Portsmouth  Square  and  the  Robert 
Louis  Stevenson  Monument,  Hall  of  Justice,  Chinatown  again. 

Take  ''Market  and  Powell,  Bay  and  Taylor"  cable  car, 
north  bound,  at  Market  and  Powell  streets,  or  anywhere  on 
Powell  street,  or  by  transfer  from  any  Market  street  car,  and 
go  to  terminus.  Returning,  take  trolley  car  marked  ''15''  at 
end  of  Powell  street,  ask  for  transfer,  and  at  Kearny  and  Sac- 
ramento streets  change  to  west  bound  cable.  Ask  for  transfer 
again,  and  at  Powell  change  to  any  south  bound  car. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  trips  in  San  Francisco, 
or  any  other  city,  and,  like  some  other  San  Francisco  trolley 
excursions,  is  made  partly  by  cable. 


1  02  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

Beyond  California,  Powell  street  looks  down  on  the  Chinese 
Quarter  for  a  distance  of  about  five  blocks.  At  Jackson  street 
the  car  turns  westward,  then  follows  Mason  street  to  Columbus 
avenue,  running  along  the  eastern  slope  of  Russian  Hill.  From 
this  elevation  there  is  a  fair  but  somewhat  broken  view  over 
the  bay,  including  Yerba  Buena  Island,  the  Alameda  county 
shore  and  the  Contra  Costa  hills  back  of  Oakland  and  Berk- 
eley. 

On  Broadway,  westward  from  Mason  street,  is  a  very 
handsome  church  building,  that  of  Nuesira  Senora  de  Guada- 
lupe, for  the  Spanish-American  population  of  the  city.  Ahead 
appears  Alcatraz  Island,  with  its  prison  and  lighthouse  tower. 
From  the  turntable  at  the  end  of  this  route  walk  directly 
north  through  the  lumber  dumps  to  Fishermen's  Wharf,  which 
you  will  find  around  the  bend  beyond  the  Neptune  Restaurant. 
Here,  if  you  have  a  liking  for  the  human  picturesque,  you 
will  meet  it  face  to  face. 

Fishermen  s  Wharf  is  two  wharves,  in  a  lagoon  formed 
by  rough  breakwaters.  About  1  75  fishing  craft  find  harborage 
here  amid  special  facilities  for  carrying  on  the  fishing  industry. 
The  State  charges  a  toll  of  75  cents  or  a  dollar,  according  to 
length  of  boat.  Iron  ladders  lead  up  from  the  water.  Ways 
have  been  built  into  it.  There  are  high  rails,  worn  smooth 
with  use,  over  which  of  a  Saturday  morning  hundreds  of  acres 
of  nets  are  hung  to  dry.  South  of  the  lagoon  and  east  of  it 
are  boat  builders'  shops.  On  the  south  shore  is  a  blacksmith 
shop,  where  the  necessary  fastening,  and  marine  hardware,  is 
forged  and  kept  in  repair.  And  all  the  men  engaged  here, 
fishers,  boalbuilders  and  blacksmiths,  probably  over  500,  are 
Italian,  many  fresh  from  the  Mediterranean  and  still  speaking 
only  that  "liquid  music"  which  is  their  mother  tongue. 

Once  they  were  almost  all  Genoese,  but  that  was  in  the 
old  days  of  the  graceful,  swift  and  treacherous  lateen  rig,  with 
its  lean  sail  slanting  aft  like  the  wing  of  a  gull.  Very  few 
lateen  sails  are  left,  the  gasoline  engine  having  superseded 
them;  and,  with  the  other  changes  of  time,  other  places  such  as 


Bp  Trolk})  and  Cable  103 

Naples,  Rome,  Civita  Vecchia,  Chiavari,  Palermo,  and  Mes- 
sina, have  contributed  delegates,  until  almost  all  Italy  and 
Sicily  are  represented.  The  Genoese  still  stick  together,  how- 
ever, and  amid  the  parti-colored  boats  theirs  may  be  distin- 
guished by  coats  of  pale  green. 

Here  is  a  complete  Old  World  community  at  work  at  its 
own  vocation  on  the  shores  of  the  Golden  Gate ;  and  it  is 
foreign  in  costume,  manner  and  speech.  English  is  spoken  by 
few,  and  then  by  accident.  Weather-brown  men  of  the  out- 
doors go  about  sea-farmg  tasks  m  regalia  such  as  you  see  on 
the  stage.  The  general  headgear  is  the  Tam  O'Shanter,  with 
fat  pompon  atop,  woven  originally  in  bright  colors,  but  faded 
into  mellow  harmonies  by  a  hundred  suns.  The  shirt  is  a 
colored  and  often  striped  jersey.  The  trousers  are  belted  with 
a  twisted  sash,  and  disappear  into  the  cavernous  tops  of  huge 
sea-boots.  It  reads  like  the  chorus  of  an  opera  troupe;  and 
it  is  tradition  that  a  chorus  once  struck  in  San  Francisco  and 
within  an  hour  the  manager  had  forty  voices  from  Fishermen's 
Wharf,  and  they  needed  no  grease  paint  and  no  rehearsals  to 
render  Verdi  and  Donizetti  with  a  spirit  rare  in  any  theater. 

Thursday  afternoon  is  the  best  time  to  visit  Fishermen's 
Wharf,  when  the  big  catches  of  rock-cod,  smelt,  striped  bass 
and  crabs  are  brought  in  to  be  sold  in  the  free  fish  and  crab 
market  around  the  corner  from  Caviglia's  boat-building  shop. 
But  there  is  always  something  doing,  whether  it  is  Thursday 
or  not.  With  block  and  tackle  they  may  be  dragging  a  boat 
up  the  ways  for  paint  and  repairs — when  all  bystanders  "tail 
on"  and  pull  with  all  their  weight.  Or,  rocking  peacefully 
in  the  little  lagoon,  a  couple  of  owners  bait  hundreds  of  feet  of 
line  coiled  in  a  tray,  with  the  hooks  caught  in  the  padded  rim; 
transfixing  anchovies  on  them  with  magical  deftness,  and  then 
baiting  other  trayfuls  and  yet  other  trayfuls  until  the  hold  is 
filled  with  trays  of  line  ready  for  a  start  at  midnight.  Or, 
again,  sitting  in  the  sun,  silent  and  saturnine,  pipe  in  mouth,  an 
iron  hoop  about  his  knees  and  a  long  shuttle  of  seine  line  in  his 


104 


Handboofi  for  San  Francisco 


hand,  a  crab  fisher  weaves  a  crab  net  with  all  the  restful  cer- 
tainty of  an  old  woman  knitting  a  sock. 

In  a  shed  behind  the  crab  market,  a  darkened  obscurity  lit 
here  and  there  by  the  glow  of  low  fires,  the  nets  receive  their 
brown  color  in  huge  vats  of  tannage. 


DRYING    NETS    AT    FISHERMEN'S    WHARF. 


The  little  community  thinks,  dreams  and  lives  fish.  The 
children  learn  the  industry  by  absorption  and  inhalation.  They 
admire  like  connoisseurs  the  silver  crops  landed  in  baskets  on 
the  wharf,  they  lend  a  hand  to  make  fast  the  painter  as  a 
launch  chugs  in,  they  clamber  over  the  unclad  skeletons  of 
boats  in  Caviglia's,  heedless  of  the  chance  of  falling  through 
the  ribs  or  stepping  on  a  chisel. 

The  blue  sky,  the  dancing  water  of  the  Golden  Gate,  the 
ships  at  anchor  in  the  stream,  the  amethystine  hills,  the  moun- 
tains looming  beyond,  the  islands  like  Ischia  and  Capri,  the 
keen  air  with  its  salty  smell,  make  an  environment  in  which  toil 


jBij  Trolle])  and  Cable  105 

resembles  sport,  and  men  and  boys  go  about  it  with  a  satis- 
faction that  finds  its  vent  in  jocular  shouts  and  gusty  laughter. 

Northward  over  a  convenient  plank  you  reach  the  marine 
reporting  station  of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce.  Beside  it,  in 
a  row  of  old  water-front  structures,  are  the  Immigration 
Station  and  the  barge  office  of  the  Custom  House.  The  quar- 
antine steamer  lies  at  the  dock,  and  a  pilot  boat  is  likely  to 
be  riding  in  the  stream.  For  this  is  the  official  entrance  to 
San  Francisco  Bay. 

Westward  of  this  point,  the  wooded  hill  running  out  into 
the  water  is  the  site  of  Fort  Mason  and  the  Transport  Docl(s. 

Walk  eastward  along  the  wharves,  where  the  big  steam 
schooners  are  discharging  hundreds  of  thousands  of  feet  of 
lumber  from  "up  the  coast,"  to  the  gas-holder  at  the  foot  of 
Powell  street,  and  here 

Take  Trolley  Car  ''15,"  southbound,  and  as!(  for  transfer. 

This  car  takes  you  down  Powell  street  to  Columbus  avenue, 
and  then  by  Union,  Stockton  and  Broadway  into  Kearny  street. 
Down  Stockton  to  Broadway  and  along  Broadway  to  Kearny, 
you  are  going  through  the  business  section  of  the  Latin  Quarter; 
first  the  business  signs  bear  French  names  and  then  Italian,  and 
there  are  several  blocks  where  you  will  not  see  an  English  name. 

Down  Kearny  street  you  will  pass  the  Hall  of  Justice,  and 
Portsmouth  Square,  where  stands  the  monument  to  Robert 
Louis  Stevenson.      (See  index). 

Change  at  Sacramento  street  to  westbound  cable  car  marked 
''Ferries  and  Fillmore  via  Sacramento  and  Cla])."  Get  a 
transfer. 

This  car  lifts  you  up  the  hill  through  Chinatown,  which  can 
only  be  seen  to  advantage  lingeringly  and  afoot. 

At  the  Fairmont  Hotel  change  to  southbound  Powell  street 
cable,  which  will  take  you  back  to  Market  street  and  the  point 
of  beginning. 

TROLLEY   TRIP    NO.    4. 

Presidio  Military  Reservation,  and  Exposition  site  at  Har- 
bor   View,   by   way   of   O^Farrell  street  and   the   retail   and 


1  06  HandbooI(  for  San  Francisco 

apartment  house  districts.  Returning  fcp  Fillmore  street  hill. 
Nob  Hill  and  Porvell  street. 

Take  O'Farrell  street  cable  car  at  Market  and  O'Farrell 
streets,  transfer  at  Union  street  to  trolley  car  marked  ''Pre- 
sidio," west  bound,  and  go  to  end  of  line.  Returning,  change 
at  Fillmore  street  to  car  bound  south  (up  the  hill)  and  at 
Washington  street  change  again  to  ''Washington,  Jackson, 
Powell  and  Market"  cable  car  bound  east. 

O'Farrell  street  affords  a  fair  example  of  the  rebuilding  of 
the  downtown  section  of  San  Francisco.  The  buildings  are 
large,  new  and  beautifully  appointed,  as  they  are  throughout 
this  entire  retail  section,  and  the  stores  are  as  fine  as  can  be 
found  anywhere. 

At  Hyde  and  Union  streets,  transfer  to  Presidio  and  Fer- 
ries line,  car  marked  "Presidio,"  bound  west. 

Within  a  block  the  view  discloses  the  topographical  reasons 
for  the  location  of  the  Panama-Pacific  Exposition.  A  bowl- 
shaped  an-phitheater  cpens  ahead,  its  sides  built  up  with  dwell- 
ings and  its  floor  containing  the  level  land  that  forms  the  Expo- 
sition site. 

Up  Van  Ness  avenue,  a  block  north  at  the  corner  of  Green 
street,  you  catch  a  glimpse,  in  passing,  of  the  small  dome  and 
turrets  of  the  Creek  Catholic  Cathedral,  one  of  four  in  the 
United  States. 

As  the  car  runs  west  on  Union  street,  the  Exposition  grounds 
lie  to  the  northward  at  the  edge  of  the  water. 

The  terminus  of  the  line  is  inside  the  "Presidio,"  which  was 
the  Spanish  name  for  the  military  post.  This  Presidio  was 
founded  by  the  Spaniards  in  I  776,  and  covers  an  area  of 
1,542  acres.  During  the  recent  Philippine  insurrection  10,000 
American  soldiers  at  a  time  camped  here.  Part  of  it  projects 
into  the  Golden  Gate  in  the  form  of  a  long  cape,  called  Fort 
Point,  with  Fort  Winlield  Scott  at  the  northern  end. 

Near  the  end  of  the  car  line,  on  the  north,  are  the  buildings 
of  the  finest  and  most  extensive  military  hospital  in  the  United 
States,  the  Letterman  General  Hospital.      It  cost  over  half  a 


Bp   Trolley  and  Cable  107 

million  dollars,  and  here  the  sick  and  wounded  soldier  boys 
returning  from  the  Philippines  are  cared  for. 

There  are  fine  drives  through  the  reservation,  and  a  good 
walker  will  find  much  of  interest.  The  Presidio  is  open  to  the 
public,  but  in  certain  parts  marked  by  signs  at  the  roadside, 
cameras  are  forbidden. 

Dress  parades  are  held  Thursdays  and  Fridays  at  4  p.  m. 

Guard  mounting  may  be  seen  on  the  upper  parade  at  9  a. 
m.  Sundays,  1 0  a.  m.  Saturdays  and  10:30  the  other  days 
of  the  week. 

Infantry  drills  can  be  seen  daily  between  7  and  11  a.  m., 
except  Saturdays  and  Sundays.  At  that  hour  on  Saturday 
inspection  is  held. 

At  Fort  Winfield  Scott,  the  fortifications  can  be  visited,  but 
only  on  a  pass  obtained  from  the  Adjutant's  office  in  the  Ad- 
ministration building,  and  in  company  with  a  man  detailed  for 
the  purpose.  The  best  time  is  the  morning,  before  1  1  o'clock, 
as  nobody  can  be  detailed  for  this  service  in  the  afternoon.  Ar- 
tillery drill  occurs  from  8  to  I  0  a.  m.,  daily,  except  Thursdays, 
Saturdays,  Sundays,  and  holidays.  At  4:30  p.  m.,  Thursdays, 
there  is  a  parade.  None  of  the  fortifications  or  batteries  must 
be  sketched  or  photographed. 

Returning,  take  a  transfer  and  change  at  Fillmore  street  to 
car  bound  south   (up   the  hill). 

Here  a  cable  will  lift  you  for  two  blocks  on  the  steepest 
grade  mounted  by  any  car  line  in  San  Francisco.  Rearward 
are  the  Golden  Gate  and  the  Marin  county  hills.  At  the  top 
of  the  grade  you  change  again  to  a  car  going  in  the  same 
direction.     Get  a  transfer. 

Passing  Calvar])  Presb))terian  Church,  the  next  transfer  point 
is  at  Washington  street,  one  block  beyond. 

At  Fillmore  and  Washington  streets,  change  to  the  cable 
car  marked  ''Washington,  Jacl(son,  Porvell  and  Market,'' 
bound  east  on   Washington  street. 

A  few  blocks  eastward  is  Lafayette  Parl(,  on  the  right. 


108 


Handbook  for  San  Francisco 


Along  this  line  and  parallel  streets  such  as  Jackson,  Pacific, 
Broadway  and  Vallejo,  forming  in  part  what  is  called  "Pacific 
Heights,''  and  reaching  as  far  as  Powell  street,  on  Nob  Hill, 
are  many  of  the  finer  residences  of  the  city;  the  town  houses  of 
local  merchants,  bankers  and  capitalists. 


SAN   FRANCISCO   APARTMENTS — PUEBLO   TYPE. 


As  the  car  swings  around  into  Powell  street  there  is  a 
beautiful  vista  of  the  bay,  with  Yerba  Buena  Island,  and  the 
cities  on  the  opposite  shore. 

You  descend  rapidly  into  the  business  district,  passing  the 
St.  Francis  Hotel,  at  Geary  street,  and  running  to  the  turntable 
at  Market  in  front  of  the  Flood  building,  which  stands  on  the 
site  of  the  famous  old  Baldwm  Hotel. 

TROLLEY   TRIP    NO.    5. 

Union  Iron  Works,  Potrero  Industrial  District,  Islais  Creef(, 
Butcher  Ton>n,  Bay  View,  Six-Mile  House  and  Visitacion 
Valley;  returning  by  ivay  of  the  Mission. 


B])  Trolley)  and  Cable  109 

Take  Kenlucl^y  street  line  No.  16,  anyrvhere  along  Kearny 
street,  or  at  Third  and  Market;  ask  for  transfer,  and  ride  to 
terminus  at  Thirty-second  avenue  south.  Change  here  to  "Visi- 
tacion  Valley,  Railroad  Avenue  and  Mission'  line.  Return- 
ing, take  ''Cemeteries"  car.  No.  14,  or  San  Mateo  car,  east 
hound,  the  first  of  which  will  take  you  down  Mission  street, 
and  the  second  to  Fifth  and  Market. 

The  route  takes  you  down  Third  street,  past  the  Southern 
Pacific  Depot  at  Townsend.  Up  Townsend  to  the  left,  at 
Second,  you  can  see  the  handsome  concrete  Pumping  Station 
No.  1 ,  of  the  city's  auxihary  fire  protection  system.  This  sta- 
tion is  equipped  with  four  great  turbine  pumps  that  can  drive 
1 0,000  gallons  of  water  a  minute,  drawn  from  the  bay,  all 
over  San  Francisco,  under  a  pressure  of  300  pounds  to  the 
inch.  A  reservoir  under  the  building  holds  a  million  gallons 
of  fresh  water  to  supply  the  eight  boilers,  and  nearby  is  storage 
for  2,000  barrels  of  fuel  oil. 

The  car  crosses  the  Channel  at  Fourth  street,  and  runs 
down  to  and  along  Kentucky  street.  On  the  left  lies  Central 
Basin,  with  the  gaunt  skeleton  frames  of  the  Union  Iron 
Works.  The  frames  carry  traveling  cranes,  by  which  are  han- 
dled the  materials  for  the  construction  of  the  largest  types  of 
ship.  A  launching  from  these  ways  is  an  interesting  and 
thrilling  spectacle. 

At  this  plant  were  built  the  battleship  "Oregon,"  whose 
dramatic  run  around  South  America  during  the  Spanish  war 
awakened  the  anxieties  of  the  nation  and  caused  the  irresistible 
public  demand  for  the  construction  of  the  Panama  Canal;  and 
the  cruiser  "Olympia,"  Admiral  Dewey's  flagship  at  the  battle 
of  Manila  Bay.  Other  war  vessels  built  here  have  been  the 
battleships  "Wisconsin"  and  "Ohio,"  the  armored  cruisers 
"California"  and  "South  Dakota,"  the  protected  cruisers 
"Charleston,"  "San  Francisco,"  "Milwaukee"  and  "Taco- 
ma,"  the  monitors  "Monterey"  and  "Wyoming,"  a  long  list 
of  gunboats,  torpedo  boats  and  destroyers,  and  several  sub- 
marines.     The  imperial  Japanese  cruiser   "Chitose"   was   also 


1  i  0  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

constructed  by  the  Union  Iron  Works.  This  plant  and  the 
great  drydocks  at  Hunter's  Point  have  recently  been  acquired 
by  the   Bethlehem  Steel  Company. 

Three  blocks  beyond  the  Union  Iron  Works,  at  Potrero 
Point,  is  the  Western  Sugar  Refinery,  one  of  the  largest  indus- 
trial plants  about  the  bay. 

The  car  next  crosses  Islais  CreeJf,  destined  to  be  a  fine  inland 
harbor. 

On  the  right  are  extensive  truck  gardens,  farmed  by  thrifty 
Italians,  and  irrigated  by  scores  of  windmills  that  make  a  Hol- 
land scene.  This  tract  is  already  being  marketed  for  factory 
sites,  being  close  to  rail  and  water. 

At  Thirty-second  street,  change  for  the  Six-Mile  House. 

The  road  now  winds  down  into  Visitacion  Valley,  a  prom- 
ising new  industrial  district,  crosses  over  the  line  into  San 
Mateo  county,  crosses  back  again  into  San  Francisco,  and 
makes  a  cross-country  run  to  Mission  street. 

At  Mission  street,  taf^e  north  bound  car. 

This  car  will  bring  you  into  the  city  by  the  route  described 
in  Trolley  Trip  No.  3,  along  Mission  street,  whence  you  can 
transfer  to  Market  at  any  convenient  crossing. 

TROLLEY  TRIP   NO.    6. 

San  Mateo  by  Tvay  of  "The  Mission,''  Daly  City,  the 
Cemeteries,  Tanforan,  Burlingame  and  Hillsboro.  Returning 
by  Way  of  San  Jose  avenue  and  Guerrero  street. 

Tal(e  San  Mateo  car  at  Fifth  and  Market  streets.  The 
fare  to  San  Mateo  is  twenty-five  cents.  Returning,  pay  twenty 
cents  to  Daly  City  and  there  change  to  Ocean  View  line 
No.  26,  marked  ''Ferries  and  Daly  City  (or  Ocean  View) 
via  Mission,  Guerrero  Street  and  San  Jose  Avenue." 

This  trip  leads  through  "the  Mission,"  down  to  the  county 
line  at  what  is  called  Daly  City,  thence  around  the  San  Bruno 
hills  and  along  the  east  side  of  the  Sierra  Morena  ridge. 

The  cemeteries  are  on  this  line — IVoodlawn,  Cypress  Lawn, 
Holy   Cross,   and   others,    interments   being   prohibited   in   San 


By  Trolley  and  Cable  1 1  1 

Francisco.  They  are  very  beautiful,  with  their  pools  and 
fountains  near  the  car  line,  and  show  what  cultivation  can  do 
in  this  rare  climate. 

A  short  distance  out  from  San  Francisco  the  car  passes 
Tanforan,  a  once  popular  race  track.  A  few  miles  below 
Tanforan  on  this  road  is  the  ranch  of  the  late  D.  O.  Mills,  a 
superb  estate  stretching  back  toward  the  hills. 

Probably  this  is  the  wealthiest  neighborhood  in  the  West, 
although  it  is  little  on  display  from  the  car. 

San  Mateo  itself  is  one  of  the  prettiest  residence  towns  in 
the  whole  of  California,  calling  itself,  not  inaptly,  the  "Floral 
City."  Gardens  abound.  Here  is  a  good  hostelry,  the  Hotel 
Peninsula,  with  broad  and  inviting  grounds,  a  few  blocks  from 
the  end  of  the  car  line — a  popular  resort  for  San  Franciscans. 
One  can  get  a  satisfactory  table  d'hote  luncheon  or  dinner  at 
a  moderate  price  at  the  little  French  hotel  next  to  the  Public 
Library  on  Second  street.  There  are  livery  stables  and  gar- 
ages, and  if  one  has  the  time  and  would  see  the  country  to  the 
best  advantage  he  can  take  a  number  of  drives  from  San  Mateo 
into  entrancing  scenes  of  mountain  and  redwood  forest,  by 
romantic  roads,  through  vales  of  the  most  delicate  loveliness  to 
lakes  more  beautiful  than  Killarney.  Here  are  some  of  the 
drives  and  auto  routes  laid  out  by  the  San  Mateo  Board  of 
Trade: 

North  Lal^e  Drive,  via  Crystal  Springs  New  Dam  (second 
largest  in  the  world),  San  Andreas  and  Millbrae;  circuit  20 
miles. 

Crystal  Springs  Lake  to  Halfmoon  Bay  (Spanishtown), 
through  the  famous  San  Gabilan  Pass  and  Moss  Beach  on  the 
Pacific  Ocean ;  I  5  miles. 

Las  Pulgas  Drive,  via  the  Lakes,  via  Canyada  Valley,  via 
West  Union  Vineyards  and  Redwood  City. 

Stanford  University,  via  Middlefield  Road,   through  beau- 
tiful Fair  Oaks,  returning  through  the  redwoods  via  Woodside. 
Burlingame  Coif  Lin}(s,   Polo   Fields,   Country   Club,   resi- 
dence district  and  San  Mateo  beach;  circuit  six  miles. 


1  1  2  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

Summit  Drive  (altitude  2,000  feet).  Kings  Mountain,  via 
Woodside  and  Redwood  City. 

Pescadero,  Pebble  Beach,  via  Purisima  and  San  Gregorio, 
returning  through  the  redwoods  via  La  Honda. 

The  San  Andreas  and  Crystal  Springs  reservoirs  are  the 
main  source  of  San  Francisco's  water  supply. 

Cars  start  back  from  San  Mateo  to  San  Francisco  every 
twenty  minutes,  or  one  can  take  the  Southern  Pacific  and  come 
up  by  way  of  the  Bay  Shore  cut-off  and  the  tunnels,  running 
along  the  edge  of  the  bay.  The  return  by  trolley,  along  the 
hills,  is  very  pleasant.  Approaching  town,  one  sees,  to  the 
right,  the  San  Bruno  hills,  or  mountains,  rising  1,300  feet. 
The  ridge  runs  in  an  easterly  and  westerly  direction,  and  be- 
yond the  eastern  extremity  rise  three  of  those  ghostly,  skeleton 
towers  of  the  wireless  telegraph  system,  belonging  to  the  same 
company  that  operates  the  pair  on  the  ocean  beach  near  Golden 
Gate  Park.  One  of  these  towers  is  608  feet  high,  the  tallest 
timber  structure  in  the  world,  and  the  tallest  wireless  telegraph 
tower  in  America.  The  station  communicates  with  the  Ha- 
waiian Islands. 

To  vary  the  scene  and  traverse  a  different  part  of  "the 
Mission"  on  the  return  trip. 

Get  off  at  Daly  City  and  taf(e  car  on  line  No.  26,  running 
by  Way  of  San  Jose  avenue.  Diamond,  Chenery  and  Thirtieth 
streets,  Guerrero  and  Mission. 

TROLLEY  TRIP   NO.    7, 

Mission  street,  the  Mint,  Post  Office,  National  Guard  Ar- 
mory, Mission  residence  and  business  district,  great  viaduct, 
Sutro  Forest,  Ocean  avenue.  Lake  Merced,  Sloat  Boulevard, 
Great  Highrvay  and  the  Ocean  Beach;  returning  through  Park- 
side  and  the  Sunset  district,  along  south  side  of  Golden  Gate 
Park  by  Switch-Back  Railway  on  the  slope  of  Twin  Peaks, 
down  through  "The  Mission"  and  the  industrial  district,  to 
Third  street  and  up  to  Market. 


By  Trolley  and  Cable  1  1  3 

Take  Ingleside  line  No.  12,  on  Mission  street,  going  tvest- 
rvard.  Returning,  transfer  at  Twenty-fifth  avenue  to  Par^side 
car  going  northward;  transfer  again  at  Twentieth  avenue  and 
Lincoln  way  to  Line  20,  ''Ellis  and  Ocean"  car  going  east;  at 
Waller  and  Stanyan,  transfer  to  ''Third  and  Harrison  and 
Park"  '^<^fy  going  east;  at  Third  street  transfer  to  any  Third 
street  car  hound  north,  to  Third  and  Market  streets.  Ask  for 
transfer  when  you  board  the  cars. 

Mission  street  runs  parallel  with  Market,  one  block  south. 
On  the  right,  as  the  car  passes  Fifth  street,  one  sees  the  United 
States  Branch  Mint.      (See  index). 

Two  blocks  beyond,  at  Seventh  street,  is  the  United  States 
Court  House  and  Post  Office  building,  which  see. 

At  the  corner  of  Fourteenth  street,  on  the  right,  is  the  San 
Francisco  Armory  of  the  National  Guard  of  California,  an 
imposing  structure  covering  a  space  240x280  feet,  with  offices, 
locker  rooms,  dressing  rooms,  mess  rooms  and  kitchens,  a  swim- 
ming tank,  a  gymnasium,  a  rifle  range,  large  disappearing  guns, 
the  proper  ammunition  vault,  a  drill  court  1  68x240  feet,  with 
a  gun  shed  adjoining;  and  a  social  hall,  library  and  reading 
room.      It  cost  $300,000. 

Just  beyond,  the  car  runs  into  the  populous  and  popular 
"Mission  District,"  with  thronging  business  streets,  like  another 
city. 

The  route  skirts  Balboa  Park,  on  the  right,  the  old  coursing 
park,  once  the  scene  of  a  very  popular  sport;  and  the  lower 
edge  of  the  Sutro  forest.  Through  the  trees  beyond  on  the 
other  side  of  the  car,  one  catches  indigo  glimpses  of  Lake 
Merced. 

The  terminus  of  the  car  line  is  at  the  southern  end  of  the 
Great  Highway,  at  its  junction  with  Sloat  Boulevard.  The 
beach  is  just  beyond,  and  here  one  looks  out  on  the  vast 
Pacific  across  a  sweep  of  tumbling  foam. 

Returning,  ask  for  transfer. 

Change  at  Thirty-fifth  avenue  to  Parkside  line,  bound 
north. 


1  I  4  Handbook  lor  San  Francisco 

This  route  will  thread  the  dunes  of  Parl(side  and  take  you 
up  through  the  Sunset  District. 

Changing  again  at  Trventieth  avenue  and  Lincoln  Way,  you 
are  taken  along  the  south  side  of  Golden  Gate  Park,  passing 
within  sight  of  the  Affiliated  Colleges,  and  around  the  south- 
east corner  of  the  Park  to  the  Haight  street  entrance. 

Change  here  to  the  ''Third  and  Harrison  and  Park"  ^'n^. 
going  east. 

As  the  car  turns  into  Ashbury  street  and  begins  to  climb 
the  hill  it  affords  a  fine  view  of  Lone  Mountain  and  the  north- 
ern part  of  the  city,  with  the  Marin  county  hills  beyond. 

The  car  descends  the  hill,  traverses  "the  Mission"  on 
Eighteenth  street  at  right  angles  to  the  route  going  out,  run- 
ning between  the  Mission  High  School  and  Mission  Park, 
between  Church  and  Dolores  streets,  and  within  a  block  of 
the  Mission  Dolores,  and  winds  into  Harrison  street  at  Four- 
teenth. 

At  Third  street,  Harrison  runs  into  the  steep  grade  of  Rin- 
con  Hill. 

Change  here  to  any  car  going  north,  ivhich  rvill  take  you 
up  Third  to  Market  street  at  Newspaper  Square. 

TROLLEY   TRIP    NO.    8. 

Buena  Vista  Park,  ^"^  View  over  City,  Bay  and  Ocean. 

Take  Haight  street  line  No.  7,  on  Market  street,  and  get 
off  at  Buena  Vista  Park  entrance  opposite  the  end  of  Lyon 
street.     Return  by  same  way. 

Buena  Vista  Park  is  a  wooded  hill  located  almost  in  the 
center  of  the  city  and  affording  a  fine  view.  It  is  east  of 
Golden  Gate  Park,  south  of  the  eastern  end  of  the  Panhandle, 
and  on  a  line  with  Fourteenth  street,  projected.  The  ascent 
begins  at  the  stone  steps  on  Haight  street. 

There  are  36  acres  in  the  park,  which  rises  to  a  height  of 
over  500  feet.  The  outlook  is  almost  as  good  as  that  from  the 
top  of  Lone  Mountain,  and  the  paths  give  a  better  footing, 
making  an  easier  climb. 


Bp   Trolley  and  Cable 


115 


TROLLEY   TRIP    NO.    9. 

By  the  sightseeing  car  of  the  United  Railroads.  Fare,  75 
cents,  which  includes  entrance  fee  to  Sutro  Museum  and  Baths. 

LoTver  Market  street.  Post  street  and  the  retail  district. 
Union  Square,  Dervey  Monument,  Presidio,  Golden  Gate, 
Land's  End,  Suiro  Baths  and  Museum,  Cliff  House  and  Seal 


Cow  light,    R-   J-   Waters   &   Co. 
LOOKING   DOWN   MAHKET   STREET  FROM   POWELL. 

Rocks,  Lincoln  Park,  Fort  Milev,  Golden  Gale  Park,  Park 
Panhandle,  Ashhury  Heights,  Affiliated  Colleges,  Mission 
Dolores,  through  the  Mission  District  and  hack  to  Market 
street. 

Car  leaves  its  station  inside  Ferry  Loop  at  JO  a.  m.  and  2 
p.  m.,  and  makes  a  slop  at  Montgomery,  Post  and  Market 
streets  at  10:05  a.  m.  and  2:05  p.  m. 

This  trip  covers  about  38  miles  in  a  little  over  three  hours, 
and  IS  a  good  one  for  those  whose  time  is  short  and  who  wish 


1  1  6  Handbool(  for  San  Francisco 

to  avoid  the  annoyance  of  having  to  transfer.  Many  important 
and  beautiful  parts  of  the  city  are  described  by  the  conductor, 
and  as  the  route  laid  out  is  very  comprehensive,  a  good  idea 
of  San  Francisco  may  be  obtained  in  this  way  with  little  effort. 


CHURCHES  AND  DIVINE  SERVICE. 

The  churches  of  San  Francisco  have  played  a  vital  part 
in  its  evolution.  The  Mission  of  San  Francisco  d'Assisi, 
which  came  to  be  called  the  Mission  Dolores  from  the  little 
creek  near  which  it  was  built,  was  the  initial  ecclesiastical 
establishment,  and  part  of  the  foundation  of  the  city. 

In  1 848  the  Rev.  T.  Dwight  Hunt  arrived  in  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  before  a  week  was  out  was  appointed  chaplain  to 
the  little  community.  The  first  permanent  Protestant  house  of 
worship  in  the  city  was  built  by  his  flock,  which,  as  the  First 
Congregational  church,  throve  under  the  ministry  of  such  stal- 
wart good  citizens  as  Dr.  Stone  and  Dr.  Barrows. 

The  first  public  school  in  San  Francisco  was  opened  in  the 
First  Baptist  church  on  December  26th,  1849,  by  John  C. 
Pelton,  with  three  pupils. 

Calvary  Presbyterian  Church,  which  formerly  stood  on  the 
present  site  of  the  St.  Francis  hotel,  was  a  vital  factor  in  the 
community,  under  the  ministration  of  Dr.  William  A.  Scott. 

Such  men  as  Dr.  Horatio  Stebbins,  Thomas  Starr  King 
and  Elkan  Cohn  were  not  only  influential  as  clergymen,  but 
as  leaders  in  culture  and  citizenship. 

"Old  St.  Mary's"  as  it  is  affectionately  called,  is  a  land- 
mark, and  was  the  scene  of  the  labors  of  Archbishop  Alemany, 
whose  portrait  ornaments  the  vestibule  opposite  that  of  Padre 
Junipero  Serra. 

The  Second  New  Jerusalem  Church  (Swedenborgian)  at 
Lyon  and  Washington  streets,  is  an  architectural  gem.  So  are 
such    edifices    as   the    Evangelical    Lutheran,    Emanu    El,    the 


Churches  and  Divine  Service  1 1  7 

present  Calvary  Presbyterian,  the  First  Presbyterian,  St. 
Luke's  Holy  Catholic,  the  First  Church  of  Christ,  Scientist,  and 
many  more,  and  so  will  be  the  First  Congregational,  and  the 
new  Grace  Cathedral,  which  is  to  arise  on  the  California  street 
site  donated  by  the  Crocker  family. 

Almost  all  leading  religious  denominations  are  represented 
and  have  places  of  worship  in  San  Francisco.  For  the  conven- 
ience of  visitors  wishing  to  attend  divine  service  we  give  the 
names  and  locality  of  a  number  of  the  more  noted  churches  that 
are  readily  accessible  from  the  downtown  section,  and  several 
car  lines  by  which  they  may  be  reached. 

BAPTIST. 

First  Baptist.  Junction  of  Market,  Octavia  and  Waller 
streets. 

Take  Haight  street  cars.  Line  No.  7,  to  Octavia  street; 
Market  street  cars.  Line  No.  8,  to  Waller  street;  Valencia 
street  cars.  Line  No.  9,  to  Valencia  street;  or  Valencia,  Cough 
and  Fillmore  street  cars.  Line  No.  23,  to  Valencia. 

Preaching  service,  Sundays  at  1  I   a.  m.  and  7:45  p.  m. 

Hamilton  Square  Baptist.  Post  street,  between  Fillmore  and 
Steiner. 

Take  Sutter  street  car.  Line  No.  I ,  or  Sutter  and  Clement, 
Line  No.  2;  get  off  at  Steiner  street  and  Walk  ^  block  south; 
or  Gear])  Street  Municipal  line,  to  Steiner  street,  and  Jvalk  a 
block  north;  or  Fillmore  and  Sixteenth,  Line  No.  22,  or  Fill- 
more and  Mission,  Line  No.  23,  get  off  at  Post  and  ivalk  a 
block  tvest. 

Preaching  service,  Sundays  at  1  1   a.  m.  and  7:45  p.  m. 

CHRISTIAN. 

First  Christian.     Duboce  avenue  and  Noe  street. 

Haight  street  car.  Line  No.  7,  to  Pierce  street  and  walk 
two  blocks  south  and  through  the  small  park;  or  Market  street 
car.  Line  No.  8,   to  Noe  street  and  walk  three  blocks  north 


1  I  8  Handbook  for  San   Francisco 

to  Duboce;  or  Fillmore  and  Sixteenth,  Line  No.  22,  to  Duboce, 
and  Walk  two  blocks  west. 

Preaching  services,    11    a.   m.   and   7:45  p.   m.  Sundays. 

West  Side  Christian.  Bush  street,  between  Scott  and  Divis- 
adero. 

Sutter  and  California  car.  Line  No.  I ,  or  Sutter  and  Clem- 
ent, Line  No.  2,  get  off  at  Scott  and  waU(  a  block  north  to 
Bush;  or  Gear])  street  line,  get  off  at  Scott  and  walk  three 
blocks  north  to  Bush;  or  California  street  cable  to  Scott  and 
Walk  two  blocks  south  to  Bush;  Turk  and  Eddy,  Line  No.  4, 
or  Mission  and  Richmond,  Line  No.  24,  to  Bush  and  Divisa- 
dero,  and  Walk  <^(ist. 

Preaching  services,   11   a.  m.  and  7:45  p.  m.,  Sundays. 

CHRISTIAN    SCIENCE. 

First  Church  of  Christ,  Scientist.  California  and  Franklin 
streets. 

California  street  cable;  or  Ninth  and  Polk  car*.  Line  No.  19. 
to  California  street  and  Walk  '^'^  blocks  west. 

Sunday  services,   11   a.  m.  and  8  p.  m. 

CONGREGATIONAL. 

First  Congregational.     Post  and  Mason  streets. 

Sutter  street  car.  Lines  I,  2  or  3,  to  Mason  and  Walk  ^ 
block  south,  or  Gear};  street  line  and  walk  <^  block  north;  or 
Montgomery;  and  Tenth  street  line,  no  number. 

Services,  Sundays  at  1  1   a.  m.  and  8  p.  m. 

Mission  Congregational.  Nineteenth  and  Dolores  streets, 
opposite  Mission  Park. 

Valencia  street  car.  Line  No.  9,  to  Nineteenth  street,  and 
Walk  two  blocks  west;  or  Fillmore  and  Sixteenth  car.  Line  No. 
22,  to  Dolores  street  and  walk  three  blocks  south;  or  Eigh- 
teenth street  line,  no  number,  to  Dolores  and  Walk  one  block 
south. 

Services,  Sundays  at   1  1   a.  m.  and  7:45  p.  m. 


Churches  and  Divine  Service  1 1 9 

PROTESTANT  EPISCOPAL. 

Grace  Cathedral.     Taylor  and  Sacramento  streets. 

Sacramento  cable  to  Taylor,  California  street  cable  to  Tay- 
lor and  walk  ^  block  north,  or  Powell  street  cable  to  Sacra- 
mento and  Walk  'ii'o  blocks  west. 

When  the  crypt,  on  California  street,  is  made  ready,  services 
will  be  held  there.      (See  index). 

Sunday  services.  Holy  Communion,  8  a.  m. ;  morning  service 
and  sermon,  11  a.  m. ;  choral  vespers,  with  address,  5  p.  m. 
During  the  week  daily  services  are  held  under  the  direction  of 
the  Church  Divinity  School,  at  8:30  a.  m.  and  5:30  p.  m. 
Holy  Communion  on  Wednesdays  and  holy  days  at  I  0  a.  m. 

Trinity  Church.     Bush  and  Gough  streets. 

Sutter  street  cars.  Lines  I,  2  or  3,  to  Gough  street  and 
walk  Q  block  north;  or  California  street  cable  to  Gough  street 
and  Walk  '^^^o  blocks  south. 

Services,  Sundays  at  1  1   a.  m.  and  8  p.  m. 

St.  Luke's  Holy  Catholic.  Van  Ness  avenue  and  Clay 
street. 

Take  Jackson  street  cable,  no  number,  starting  from  Powell 
and  Market,  to  Van  Ness,  and  Walk  two  blocks  south;  or 
California  street  cable  to  Van  Ness  and  Walk  iT^o  blocks 
north;  or  any  west-bound  trolley  such  as  the  Hayes  street  Line 
No.  6,  Turk  and  Eddy  No.  4,  McAllister  No.  5,  or  any 
Market  street  line,  transfer  to  Ninth  and  Polk  street.  Line  No. 
19,  north  bound,  get  of  at  Clay  street  and  Walk  o.  block  west. 

Services,  Sundays  8  a.  m.,  9:45  a.  m.,  1  1  a.  m.,  8  p.  m. 
Week  day  services  announced. 

TRINITY  CATHEDRAL  OF  THE  HOLY  GREEK  RUSSIAN. 

Eastern  Orthodox  Catholic  Church.  Van  Ness  avenue  and 
Green  street. 

Presidio  and  Perries  car  (Union  street  line)  to  Van  Ness 
avenue  and  walk  o  block  north;  or  Ninth  and  Polk  street  car. 
Line  No.   19,  to  Green  street,  and  Walk  o.  block  west. 


1 20  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

Services,  Saturdays  at  7  p.  m. ;  Sundays  and  holy  days,  1  0 
a.  m.  and  7  p.  m. 

HEBREW. 

Temple  Emanu-El.  4 1 4  Sutter  street,  between  Stockton 
and  Powell. 

Powell  street  cable  to  Sutter  street;  or  Sutter  car.  Lines  /, 
2  or  3. 

Services,   Fridays  at  5  p.   m. ;  Saturdays  at    10  a.   m. 

Temple  Israel.  Congregation  Sherith  Israel.  California 
and  Webster  streets. 

California  street  cable  car;  or  Sacramento  street  cable  to 
Webster  and  Sacramento,  if  tvest  bound,  and  Walk  a  block 
south,  or  to  Webster  and  Cla^  if  east  bound,  and  Walk  'D'o 
blocks  south;  or  take  Sutter  and  Jackson  car.  Line  No.  3,  or 
Fillmore  and  Sixteenth  car.  Line  No.  22,  or  Fillmore  and 
Mission  car,  Lme  No.  23,  to  corner  of  California  and  Fillmore 
streets  and  walk  ^  block  east. 

Services,  Saturdays  at  10  a.  m. 

Gearv  Street  Temple,  Congregation  Beth  Israel.  Geary, 
near  Fillmore. 

Geary  street  municipal  car  line,  or  O'Farrell  and  Hyde  street 
line  to  Fillmore  and  walk  <3  block  north;  or  Fillmore  and  Six- 
teenth car.  Line  No.  22,  or  Fillmore  and  Mission  car.  Line 
No.  23,  to  Geary  street. 

Services,  Friday  at  5:30  p.  m.,  and  Saturday  at  9  a.  m. 
In  winter  the  Friday  services  are  at  5  p.  m. 

LUTHERAN. 

First  English  Lutheran.  Geary  street,  between  Gough  and 
Octavia. 

Geary  street  cars;  or  Ellis  and  Ocean,  Line  No.  20,  to 
Gough  street,  and  Walk  o  block  north  if  you  were  on  a  car 
bound  Westward,  or  two  blocks  north  if  on  a  car  of  this  line 
bound  eastward. 

Services,  preaching  every  Sunday  at  I  I  a.  m.  and  8  p.  m. 


Churches  and  Divine  Service  121 

Evangelical  Lutheran  St.  Paul's  Church.  Eddy  and  Gough 
street. 

Turk  (^^d  Edd"^  car.  Line  No.  4 ;  if  east  bound  get  off  at 
Cough  street  and  tvalk  a  block  north. 

Services,  Sundays  at  10:45  a.  m.  and  8  p.  m.  The 
morning  service  is  always  in  German.  The  evening  service  on 
the  first  and  third  Sundays  in  the  month  is  in  English,  second 
and  fourth  Sundays  in  German. 

METHODIST  EPISCOPAL.  ; 

First  Methodist  Episcopal.     Clay  and  Larkin  streets. 

Sacramento  street  car  to  Larkin,  and  if  traveling  rvestivard, 
Tvalk  a  block  north;  if  traveling  eastward  the  car  goes  to  the 
church;  or  take  California  street  car  to  Larkin  and  walk  '^o 
blocks  north;  or  Jackson  street  car  to  Larkin,  and  if  traveling 
westward  walk  ^'^o  blocks  south,  if  eastward,  one  block  south; 
or  Ninth  and  Polk  c<^r*  Line  No.  19,  to  Clay,  and  Walk  <^ 
block  east;  or  O'Farrell,  Jones  and  Hyde  street  car  to  Clay 
and  walk  a  block  ^est. 

Services,  Sundays  at  1  1   a.  m.  and  7:45  p.  m. 

Central  Methodist  Episcopal.  O'Farrell  and  Leavenworth 
streets. 

Montgomery  and  Tenth  street  car  to  O'Farrell;  or  O'Far- 
rell street  cable  to  Jones  and  Walk  ^  block  west;  or  Ellis  and 
Ocean  car.  Line  No.  20;  or  Hayes  and  Ellis,  No.  21 ,  to 
Leavenworth,  and  Walk  ^  block  north;  or  Ceary  street  Munici- 
pal Railroad  to  Leavenworth  and  walk  a  block  south;  or  Ninth 
and  Polk  street  car.  Line  No.  19,  to  O'Farrell  and  Walk  two 
blocks  east. 

Services,  Sundays  at  1  1   a.  m.  and  7:45  p.  m. 

California  Street  Methodist  Episcopal.  California  and 
Broderick  streets. 

California  street  car  to  Broderick;  or  Turk  and  Eddy  car. 
Line  No.  4,  to  California,  and  Walk  a  block  west;  or  Mission 
and  Richmond  car.  Line  No.  24,  to  California,  and  Walk  a 
block   West. 


122  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

Services,  Sundays  11  a.  m.  and  7:45  p.  m.,  in  summer,  and 
7:30  in  winter. 

Grace  Methodist  Episcopal.     Twenty-first  and  Capp  streets. 

Valencia  street  car.  Line  No.  9,  on  Market  street,  to  Trven- 
tv-first  street,  and  rvalk  a  block  ^"cf  a  half  east;  or  Horvard 
street  car,  no  number,  to  Trvent^-first  street,  and  Tvalk  half  a 
block  Ta>est;  or  Mission  street  car.  Line  No.  18,  to  Trventy- 
first  street,  and  rvalk  half  a  block  eas/;  or  Fillmore  and  Valen- 
cia street  car.  Line  No.  23,  to  Trvent^-first  street,  and  rvalk 
a  block  onJ  a  half  east. 

Services,  Sundays  at   1  1   a.  m.  and  7:30  p.  m. 

PRESBYTERIAN. 

Ca/varij  Presbyterian.     Jackson  and  Fillmore  streets. 

Jackson  street  cable,  no  number,  starting  from  Powell  and 
Market,  to  Fillmore  street;  Sutter  street  car  on  Line  No.  3. 
or  an})  car  west  bound  on  the  United  Railroads  transferring  to 
Fillmore  street,  north  bound;  or  Union  street  car,  no  number, 
and  transfer  to  Fillmore,  south  bound. 

Services,  Sundays  at  1  1   a.  m.  and  7:45  p.  m. 

The  former  home  of  this  church  was  on  the  site  of  the  St. 
Francis  hotel. 

First  Presbyterian.  Van  Ness  avenue  and  Sacramento 
street. 

Sacramento  street  cable,  no  number,  to  the  door,  if  west 
bound;  if  east  bound,  get  off  at  Van  Ness  avenue  and  walk 
a  block  south;  or  take  Jackson  street  cable,  no  number,  start- 
ing from  Powell  and  Market,  to  Van  Ness  avenue  and  walk 
three  blocks  south;  or  California  street  line  to  Van  Ness  and 
Walk  a  block  north;  or  any  west  bound  trolley  such  as  the 
Hayes  street  Line  No.  6,  Turk  ''"^  Eddy  No.  4,  or  McAllis- 
ter No.  5,  or  any  other  Market  street  line,  transfer  to  Ninth 
and  Polk  street.  Line  No.  19,  north  hound,  get  off  at  Sacra- 
mento street  and  Walk  o  block  west. 

Services,  Sundays  11   a.  m.  and  7:30  p.  m. 


Churches  and  Divine  Service  123 

St.  John's  Presbyterian.  Arguello  boulevard  (First  ave- 
nue) and  Lake  street. 

Turk  on  J  Eddy  car.  Line  No.  4;  or  Sutter  and  California, 
Line  No.  I,  to  Arguello  boulevard  (First  avenue)  and  lvaU( 
a  block  north;  or  Mission  and  Richmond  cross  town  car.  Line 
No.  24,  rvhich  passes  the  door. 

Services,  II  a.  m.  and  7:45  p.  m.  Sundays. 

Trinity  Presbyterian.     Twenty-third  and  Capp  streets. 

Valencia  street  car.  Line  No.  9,  to  Trventy-third  street  and 
tvalk  trvo  and  a  half  blocks  east;  or  Mission  street  car.  Line 
No.  18,  to  Twenty- third  street  and  jvalk  half  a  block  east;  or 
Howard  street  car,  no  number,  to  Twenty-third  street,  and  half 
a  block  west. 

Services,  Sundays  11   a.  m.  and  7:45  p.  m. 

UNITED  PRESBYTERIAN  CHURCH  OF  NORTH  AMERICA. 

First  United  Presbyterian  Church.  Golden  Gate  avenue 
between  Steiner  and   Pierce  streets. 

McAllister  street  car.  Line  No.  5,  to  Steiner  and  walk  ^ 
block  north  to  Golden  Gate  avenue;  or  Turk  and  Eddy  No. 
4  to  Steiner  and  walk  two  blocks  south;  or  Fillmore  and  Six- 
teenth, No.  22,  to  Golden  Gate  avenue  and  walk  a  block  and 
a  half  west. 

Services,  Sundays  at  1  1   a.  m.  and  7:30  p.  m. 

ROMAN    CATHOLIC. 

St.  Mary's  Cathedral.  Van  Ness  avenue  and  O'Farrell 
street. 

Ellis  street  car.  Line  No.  20  or  21,  to  Van  Ness  and 
O'Farrell;  or  Ninth  and  Polk  street  car.  Line  No.  19,  (can 
be  reached  by  transfer  from  cars  of  the  United  Railroads  run- 
ning east  and  West)  to  O'Farrell  and  Larkin  streets  and  Walk 
two  blocks  west.  The  Geary  Street  Municipal  Railroad  crosses 
Van  Ness  avenue  a  block  north  of  the  Cathedral. 

Sunday  services:  Masses,  6,  7,  8  and  9:30  a.  m.,  with 
High   Mass   and   sermon   at    11.      Vespers,   with   sermon   and 


1 24  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

benediction,  at  8  p.  m.     Musical  services  are  confined  to  Higli 
Mass  and  Vespers. 

5;.  Mark's.     Grant  avenue  and  California  street. 

California  street  cable  to  Grant  avenue;  or  Kearny  and 
Beach  car.  Line  No.  15,  or  Third  and  Kentucky,  Line  No. 
16,  to  California  street  and  walk  ^  block  tvest. 

Sunday  services:  Masses  at  6:30,  8,  9,  10,  10:45  a. 
m. ;  12:15  and  8  p.  m.  High  mass  is  at  10:45  a.  m.  On 
weekdays  there  are  masses  at  6:30,  7  and  8  a.  m.  This  is 
the  oldest  church  in  the  city  except  the  Mission  Dolores. 

5/.  Francis  of  Assisium.  Columbus  avenue  and  Vallejo 
street. 

Kearny  and  Beach  car.  Line  No.  15,  to  Broadway  and 
Columbus  avenue,  and  Walk  ricrthwest  a  block;  or  Union  street 
car  (Presidio  &  Ferries,  no  number),  to  the  door. 

Services,  (now  held  in  the  temporary  wooden  church  ad- 
joining on  the  west)  Sundays  and  holidays  of  obligation, 
Mass  at  6,  7:30  and  9  a.  m. ;  High  Mass  and  sermon  at 
10:30;  Vespers,  sermon  and  Benediction  of  the  Blessed  Sac- 
rament, 7:30  p.  m.  Daily  Mass  at  6:30  and  7:30  a.  m. ; 
evenings  devotion  at  7:30. 

This  was  the  original  cathedral. 

5/.  Patrick's,  744  Mission  street,  between  Third  and  Fourth. 

Any  car  on  Mission  street,  or  any  Mission  street  car  by  trans- 
fer; or  Geary  street  municipal  line,  east  bound,  transfer  to 
Third  and  get  off  at  Mission;  or  Kearny  and  Beach  car.  Line 
No.  15,  or  Third  and  Kentucky  car.  Line  16,  and  get  off 
at  Mission;  or  Ellis  and  Ocean  No.  20,  to  Fourth  and  Mission 
and  Walk  half  a  block  <^os/. 

Services:  Sundays,  Masses  at  6,  7,  8,  9,  10  and  II  a.  m., 
and  12m.;  Holy  days,  6,  7,  8,  9,  10  a.  m.,  and  12m.;  week- 
days, 6  and  7  a.  m.  Evening  devotions  on  Sundays,  Holy 
days  of  obligation  and  First  Fridays,  7:45  p.  m. 

St.  Patrick's  also  provides  a  night  worker's  mass  at  2  a.  m., 
Sundays,  for  newspaper  men  and  other  night  workers. 


Churches  and  Divine  Service  125 

St.  Ignatius.  Hayes  and  Shrader  streets,  one  block  from 
Golden  Gate  Park. 

Ha^es  and  Ellis  car.  Line  No.  21 ;  or  McAllister  No.  5  to 
Shrader  and  Walk  two  blocks  south. 

Services:  Sunday  Masses,  5:00,  5:45,  6:30,  7:30,  8:30, 
9:30,  10:30  a.  m. ;  Sunday  evening,  715,  Beads;  730,  Ves- 
pers; 8:00,  sermon  or  lecture;  8:30,  Benediction.  Daily 
Masses,  5:00,  5:45,  6:30,  7:15  and  8:00  a.  m. 

5/.  Boniface.  (German.)  Golden  Gate  avenue,  between 
Jones  and  Leavenworth. 

Talfe  any  Market  street  car  to  Jones  and  walk  ^  block 
north;  or  Turk  o^nd  Eddy  No.  4  to  Jones,  and  if  west  bound. 
Walk  'D'o  blocks  south,  if  east  bound  one  block. 

Sunday  Masses  at  6,  7,  8,  9  and  10  a.  m. ;  evening  services 
at  7:30.     Week  day  Masses  at  6,  7  and  8:15. 

Mission  Dolores  Church.     Sixteenth  and  Dolores  streets. 

Take  Market  street  car.  Line  No.  8,  transfer  at  Church  to 
Fillmore  and  Sixteenth,  Line  No.  22,  south  bound,  and  get  off 
at  Sixteenth  street;  or  take  Ocean  View  (Guerrero)  Line  No. 
10  or  26  (running  on  Mission  street,  down  town)  to  Six- 
teenth street  and  Walk  ^  block  ^^st. 

Masses  on  Sunday  at  6,  7:30,  9,  10  and  II  a.  m. 
Masses  are  said  in  the  new  structure  behind  the  old  Mission, 
and  a  very  beautiful  new  church  is  rising  on  the  corner  be- 
side it. 

Nuestra  Senora  de  Guadalupe.  Broadway,  between  Powell 
and  Mason. 

"Bay  and  Taylor,  Powell  and  Market,"  cable  to  Broadway 
and  Mason  streets  and  Walk  half  a  block  east;  or  Kearny  and 
Beach  Line,  No.  15,  to  Powell  and  Broadway  and  Walk  bali 
a  block  West. 

Sunday  services  at  6:30,  7:30  and  10:30.  Evening  Ves- 
pers at  7:30.      Every  day,  Mass  at  7  a.  m. 


126  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

St.  Dominic's.      Pierce  and  Bush  streets. 

Sutter  and  California  car.  Line  No.  /,  or  Sutter  and  Cle- 
ment, No.  2,  to  Pierce  street  and  ivalf(  a  block  north;  or  Fill- 
more and  Sixteenth,  No.  22,  or  Fillmore  and  Valencia  No.  23, 
to  Bush  street  and  walk  'i^o  blocks  rvest;  or  California  street 
cable  to  Pierce  and  walk  two  blocks  south;  or  Turk  and 
Edd^  No.  4,  or  Mission  and  Richmond,  No.  24,  to  Divisadero 
and  Bush  streets,  and  walk  '^o  blocks  east. 

Services;  Sundays  and  holy  days,  Masses  at  6,  7,  8,  9,  10 
and  11  a.  m. ;  week  days  at  6,  7  and  8  a.  m.  Evening  services, 
every  evening  in  the  year  at  7:45  p.  m. 

This  church  has  the  largest  and  finest  organ  in  the  west. 

S5.  Peter  and  PauVs  (Salesian  Fathers).  Grant  avenue 
and  Filbert  street. 

Kearny  and  Beach  car.  Line  No.  15,  to  Filbert  street  and 
walk  ^^0  blocks  east;  or  Union  street  line,  (Presidio  and  Fer- 
ries, no  number)  to  Columbus  avenue  and  Union  street,  and 
Walk  a  block  <ind  a  half  east  and  a  block  north. 

Services:  Sundays  and  holy  days,  Masses  at  6,  7,  8,  9  and 
10:30  a.  m. ;  Vespers  and  Benediction  at  7:30  p.  m.  Wednes- 
day services,  Masses  from  6  to  8  a.  m.  Special  devotions  on 
First  Fridays. 

SWEDENBORGIAN. 

Second  New  Jerusalem  Church.  Lyon  and  Washington 
streets. 

Sutter  and  Jackson,  Line  No.  3,  to  Lyon  street,  and 
walk  half  a  block  south;  or  Turk  and  Eddy,  No.  4,  to  Lyon 
and  Sacramento  street  and  Walk  two  blocks  north;  or  Califor- 
nia street  cable  to  Lyon  street  and  walk  three  blocks  north. 

Services  at  1  1  :30  a.  m.,  Sunday.  This  is  one  of  the  beauty 
spots  of  San   Francisco. 

UNITARIAN. 
First  Unitarian.     Geary  and  Franklin  streets. 
Geary  Street  Municipal  Railroad  to  Franklin;  or  Ellis  street 
car.  Line  No.  20  or  21 ,  to  O'Farrell  and  Franklin  and  walk 


Theaters  127 

a  block  north;  or  Sutter  street,  Nos.  1 ,  2  or  3,  to  Franklin  and 
Walk  i^o  blocks  south. 

Services  at   1  1   a.  m.  Sundays, 

In  front  of  this  church  is  the  tomb  of  Thomas  Starr  King, 
who  was  pastor  during  the  Civil  War,  and  whose  eloquence 
in  his  nation's  cause  was  said  by  Lincoln  to  have  saved  Cali- 
fornia to  the  Union.  Tomb  and  church  were  alike  removed 
to  their  present  location  from  a  site  farther  down  on  Geary 
street. 


THEATERS. 

Few  modern  cities  have  contributed  more  to  the  advance- 
ment of  the  stage  than  San  Francisco,  with  its  discriminating 
taste,  its  ready  rewards  for  what  is  sound  and  good  in  the 
drama,  and  its  cordial  appreciation  of  its  stage  favorites.  In 
early  days  the  greatest  actors  were  drawn  to  California.  Edwin 
Booth  was  content  to  be  a  barn-stormer  where  he  could  get  no 
better  houses.  Lawrence  Barrett  and  John  McCullough  were 
the  first  managers  of  the  old  California  Theater.  David 
Belasco  is  a  native  of  San  Francisco  and  was  stage  manager  of 
"The  Baldwin."  M.  B.  Leavitt  conducted  the  Bush  street 
theater  for  15  years  following  1882.  Al  Hayman  began 
his  theatrical  career  in  San  Francisco.  William  A.  Brady 
was  born  here  and  began  his  theatrical  career  in  this  city. 
Blanche  Bates  made  her  first  appearance  at  Stockwell's 
Theater,  in  San  Francisco.  Edna  Wallace  Hopper  was  born 
here  and  educated  at  the  Van  Ness  Seminary.  David  War- 
field,  a  native  of  San  Francisco,  worked  as  head  usher  in  the 
Bush  street  theater,  and  made  his  first  appearance  at  the 
old  Wigwam. 

Vaudeville  developed  its  best  form  in  this  city,  and  the  San 
Francisco  Orpheum  is  the  mother  theater  of  the  famous  "Or- 
pheum     Circuit,"     which     supplies     vaudeville     entertainment 


1  28  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

in  Chicago,  New  York  and  a  hundred  other  cities  throughout 
the  United  States;  and  which  has  affiHations  all  over  England 
and  Scotland. 

The  Orpheum  was  first  built  on  its  present  site  in  1887, 
by  Gustav  Walter,  who  had  been  successfully  conducting  a 
music  hall  called  "The  Fountain"  in  the  Thurlow  block,  on 
Kearny  street,  and  the  Germania  Gardens,  in  the  Mission. 
Ethel  Barrymore  and  Sara  Bernhardt  have  appeared  on  the 
Orpheum  stage. 

The  present  house  was  dedicated  on  April   1  9,   1  909. 

Probably  the  theater  that  stands  highest  today  in  the  affections 
of  San  Franciscans  is  the  Tivoli,  on  Eddy  street  near  Mason. 
It  has  furnished  both  opera  bouffe  and  grand  opera  to  two 
generations,  under  such  circumstances  of  homelike  simplicity  and 
comfort  that  it  has  become  an  intimate  part  of  the  life  of 
the  city,  and  the  reopening  of  the  theater  in  its  new  home  on 
March  12,  1913,  with  Andreas  Dippel's  Chicago  Opera  Com- 
pany, and  Tetrazzini  singing  Gilda  in  Rigoletto,  was  one  of 
those  heart-warming  events  that  have  done  so  much  to  make 
the  new  city  one  with  the  old. 

The  Tivoli  had  its  origin  in  the  old  Vienna  Gardens,  on 
Sutter  street  near  Stockton,  next  to  the  synagogue,  the  Temple 
Emanu  El,  in  the  centennial  year  of  1876.  The  house  had 
been  built  in  Boston  and  shipped  around  the  Horn  in  sections 
for  Judge  Burritt,  and  afterward  became  the  home  of  Dr.  A. 
J.  Bowie.  Here  F.  W.  Kreling  and  his  sons,  Joe,  William, 
John  and  Martin,  conducted  a  place  of  entertainment,  where 
people  could  sip  beer  and  smoke  and  enjoy  "variety,"  long 
before  the  days  of  vaudeville. 

Prospering,  the  Krelings  wanted  a  larger  house  than  the 
one  that  had  come  in  a  ship,  and  built  it  on  the  Eddy  street 
lot,  in  1877.  How  the  old  Tivoli  looked  from  without,  you 
can  see  by  the  bronze  relief  on  the  west  wall  of  the  vestibule 
of  the  present  one. 

In  1 895  regular  grand  opera  seasons  were  instituted.  In 
1 903   the   Tivoli   moved   across   the   corner   to   the   old  cyclo- 


Theaters  129 

rama  building  rebuilt  as  an  opera  house.  Here  Tetrazzini 
sang  Gilda  to  roof-raising  applause,  which  sent  her  forth  with 
a  San  Francisco  triumph  to  her  credit — and  San  Francisco's 
judgment  of  her  was  confirmed  by  the  world.  After  the  fire 
she  came  back  to  sing,  as  a  mark  of  gratitude,  in  the  streets 
of  the  city  that  had  first  acclaimed  her,  and  on  the  completion 
of  the  new  Tivoli  she  again  appeared  in  the  role  in  which  a 
discriminating  San  Francisco  audience  had  recognized  the  rise 
of  a  new  star. 

There  are  no  old  theaters  of  any  consequence  in  San  Fran- 
cisco. The  new  structures  have  all  been  built  under  the  most 
exacting  safety  regulations,  and  are  better  equipped  and  more 
modern  in  every  respect,  with  stout  steel  frames,  fire-proofed 
walls  and  plenty  of  exits.  In  decoration,  the  best  of  them  are 
unsurpassed. 

The  following  list  will  give  the  principal  down  town  play- 
houses and  their  locations: 

Alcazar.  O'Farrell  street,  between  Powell  and  Mason. 
Performances  every  evening;  matinees  Thursdays,  Saturdays 
and  Sundays.  Standard  plays  are  presented  by  a  good  stock 
company.     Prices,  25  cents  to  $1  ;  box  and  loge  seats,  $1.50. 

Columbia.  Geary  and  Mason  street.  Performances  every 
evening,  with  matinee  Wednesdays  and  Saturdays.  Many  of 
the  country's  leading  musical  and  dramatic  companies  are 
booked  at  this  house.  Prices  vary  with  the  character  of  the 
entertainment,  but  commonly  run  from  25  cents  to  $2. 

The  Cort.  Ellis  street  near  Stockton.  Performances 
every  night,  matinees  Wednesdays  and  Saturdays  at  2:30. 
High  class  musical  and  dramatic  productions.  Prices,  50  cents 
to  $2. 

Empress.  Market  street,  between  Fifth  and  Sixth.  Vaude- 
ville. Three  performances  daily;  matinee  at  2:30;  evening, 
7:15  and  9:15.  There  are  four  performances  on  Sunday. 
Prices   10,  20  and  30  cents. 


1  30  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

Orpheum.  O'Farrell  street,  between  Stockton  and  Powell. 
Vaudeville.  Performances  every  afternoon  and  evening.  Prices, 
I  0  to  75  cents,  box  seats,  $  I . 

Panlages.  Market  street,  opposite  Mason.  Vaudeville. 
Three  performances  daily;  matinees  at  2:30;  evening,  at  7:15 
and  9:15.  Four  performances  on  Sunday.  Prices,  10,  20 
and  30  cents. 

Save]).  McAllister  street  near  Market.  A  home  of  musical 
comedy.  Performances  every  evening;  matinees  Saturdays 
and  Sundays.     Prices,  25  cents  to  $1. 

Tivoli  Opera  House.  Eddy  street,  between  Powell  and 
Mason.  The  home  of  light  and  grand  opera,  the  former  at 
popular  prices.  During  the  light  opera  season  the  prices  are 
25,  50  and  75  cents,  with  box  seats  at  $1. 

G.  M.  Anderson,  of  moving  picture  fame,  is  building,  oppo- 
site the  Orpheum,  a  theater  for  high-class  musical  comedy  such 
as  the  sort  presented  by  the  Winter  Garden,  in  New  York. 
The  best  of  talent  will  be  organized  into  a  local  stock  com- 
pany. It  will  be  known  as  the  Gaiety.  The  prices  are  to  be 
moderate — from  25    cents   to   $1. 

PUBLIC  AUDITORIUMS. 

There  are  four  auditoriums  in  the  residence  district  west  of 
Van  Ness  avenue  that  are  the  scene  of  gatherings  too  large 
for  the  ordinary  downtown  halls.  Here  are  their  locations, 
and  directions  for  reaching  them  on  the  cars,  from  the  down- 
town district. 

Auditorium.     At  Page  and  Fillmore  streets. 
Hayes  street  car.  Line  No.   6,   to  Oak  Q"^  Fillmore  and 
Walk  a  block  south. 

Coliseum.      Baker  street,  between  Oak  and  Fell. 
Ha))es  street  car.  Line  No.  6,  to  Baker  street. 

Dreamland  Rink-     Steiner  street  near  Post. 

Sutter  street  car.  Line  No.  I  or  2,  to  Steiner  street  and  rvalk 


Sight-Seeing  Auto  Cars  131 

south;  or  Cear^  street  Municipal  Railway  to  Steiner  and  jvalf^ 
a  block  north. 

Pavilion  Rinff.     2  1 89  Sutter  street,  corner  of  Pierce. 
Sutter  street  car.  Line  No.   I  or  2. 


SIGHT-SEEING  AUTO  CARS. 

Sight-seeing  automobiles  leave  Market  street  between  Third 
and  Fifth  daily  at  10  a.  m.,  and  2  p.  m. 

At  10  p.  m.,  they  make  a  trip  to  Chinatown. 

They  can  also  be  found  at  the  Ferry  and  on  Powell  street 
near  O'Farrell. 

The  daylight  trip,  as  at  present  conducted,  can  be  recom- 
mended as  a  comfortable  way  to  see  some  of  the  most  inter- 
esting parts  of  the  city,  such  as  Golden  Gate  Park,  the  Cliff 
House  vicinity.  Pacific  Heights,  the  Presidio  and  the  Exposi- 
tion site  at  Harbor  View.  The  price  is  $1  a  passenger,  and 
the  time  required  is  about  two  and  a  half  hours. 


MONUMENTS  AND  LANDMARKS— THE  BANK 
EXCHANGE  . 

San  Francisco  is  a  city  of  romance  and  riches  and  hence, 
also  of  monuments.  There  are  many  fine  ones  that  keep  alive 
pride  in  the  place  and  its  stirring  history. 

The  Donahue  monument  at  Bush,  Battery  and  Market 
streets,  by  the  sculptor  Douglas  Tilden,  is  about  on  the  line  of 
the  original  water  front,  the  edge  of  the  bight  known  as 
Yerha  Buena  Cove,  which  swept  around  from  Montgomery 
streets  at  Jackson,  swung  across  Sansome  street  between  Cali- 
fornia and  Pine,  crossed  the  pavement  surrounding  the  mon- 
ument, just  to  the  west  of  the  pool,  and  ran  thence  below 
First  street  and  eastward  to  Rincon  Point,  the  tip  of  which  lay 
a  little  east  of  the  corner  of  Harrison  and  Spear  streets. 


32 


Handhoo}(  for  San  Francisco 


THE    DONAlllI';    MUM -\IKNT,    .MAKKi;!'    SIUKET. 


The  monument  will  well  repay  a  visit  to  it.  Its  bold  imagery 
and  fine  feeling  for  the  subject  of  human  labor  well  directed  are 
distinctively  western  in  spirit. 

The  cove  was  filled  with  the  spoil  from  the  gradmg  down 
of  the  sand  hills  of  the  city,  and  all  east  of  the  line  we  have 
described   is    made   ground.      That   is   why   on   the   south   side 


Monuments  and  Landmarks  1  33 

of  Market  the  numbered  streets  do  not  begin  until  after  the 
point  opposite  the  monument  is  passed,  going  westward. 

At  Clay  and  Montgomery,  one  of  the  recently  erected  land- 
mark bells  that  are  supposed  to  indicate  the  route  of  El  Camino 
Real,  the  Highway  of  the  King,  marks  the  old  landing  that 
was  there  "when  the  water  came  up  to  Montgomery  street." 

The  next  monument  up  Market  street  is  Lottos  Fountain, 
presented  to  the  city  by  Lotta  Crabtree,  a  stage  favorite  of 
early  days.  On  the  shaft  is  a  bronze  tablet,  put  there  to  com- 
memorate one  of  those  typically  San  Franciscan  occasions,  the 
Christmas  eve  of  1910,  when  Luisa  Tetrazzini  sang  in  the 
open  air  at  this  point  to  a  crowd  estimated  at  1  00,000,  out 
of  affection  for  the  city  that  had  shown  her  the  first  great  pub- 
lic appreciation.  The  fountain  dates  from  1875.  The  tablet, 
designed  by  Haig  Patigan,  the  sculptor,  was  unveiled  March 
24,  1912. 

This  is  the  scene  of  an  annually  recurring  open  air  music 
festival.  Chambellan,  Pasquali  and  other  great  artists  sang 
at  this  point  on  Christmas  eve  1911  and  1912,  and  Kubelik, 
the  violinist,  has  played  here. 

At  the  corner  of  Mason  street  is  another  good  thing  by 
Tilden,  the  so-called  ''Native  Sons  Monument,''  dedicated 
to  the  Native  Sons  of  the  Golden  West  by  former  Mayor 
James  D.  Phelan.  It  commemorates  the  admission  of  Cali- 
fornia into  the  Union  in   1850. 

More  of  Tilden's  work  stands  at  the  foot  of  Van  Ness 
avenue,  about  opposite  the  Masonic  Temple  building.  This  is 
the  Soldier's  Monument,  erected  by  the  citizens  of  San  Fran- 
cisco to  the  California  Volunteers  in  the  Spanish  war. 

At  City  Hall  avenue  and  McAllister  streets  stands  at  pres- 
ent a  bronze  statue  of  Hall  McAllister,  "A  Leader  of  the 
California  Bar."     It  is  by  M.  Earl  Cummings. 

Marshall  Square,  opening  from  the  north  side  of  Market 
street  opposite  Eighth,  to  the  site  of  the  City  Hall,  is  adorned 
by  the  James  Lick  Monument  to  the  Pioneers,  executed  by 
Frank  Happersberger,  a  San  Francisco  sculptor. 


1  34  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

This  monument  is  worth  visiting  for  its  fine  portrayals,  in 
relief,  of  Western  life  and  illustrations  of  California  history. 

On  the  Market  street  side  of  the  Lick  monument  is  a  highly 
ornamented  bronze  cannon  taken  from  the  Spaniards  at  San- 
tiago de  Cuba. 

One  of  the  elevations  beyond  the  end  of  Market  street, 
known  as  Mount  Olympus,  is  surmounted  by  a  colossal  statue 
of  Liberty,  erected  by  the  late  Adoph  Sutro. 

Golden  Gate  Park  contains  many  fine  statues.  A  monu- 
ment to  William  McKinley,  representing  "Peace,"  the  work 
of  Robert  L  Aitken,  stands  at  the  entrance  to  the  Panhandle. 
Another  to  Francis  Scott  Key,  author  of  the  Star  Spangled 
Banner,  just  to  the  southeast  of  the  Music  Concourse,  was 
given  by  James  Lick;  it  is  the  composition  of  the  late  W.  W. 
Story,  the  famous  American  sculptor.  The  Ball  Player  by 
Douglas  Tilden  attracts  much  attention.  Near  it  is  a  figure 
of  Robert  Burns,  by  M.  Earl  Cummings. 

Maj.  Gen.  Henry  W.  Halleck,  who  was  acting  secretary 
of  California  during  the  military  occupation  of  early  days  and 
who  became  commander  in  chief  of  the  United  States  Army 
from  1 862  to  1 864,  is  represented  by  a  bronze  bust  by  G. 
Conrades.  There  is  also  a  bust  of  General  Grant  by  R. 
Schmid. 

There  is  a  life  size  bronze  of  Thomas  Starr  King,  the  San 
Francisco  clergyman  that  represented  the  cause  of  the  Union 
during  the  Civil  War,  not  only  in  California  but  in  England 
as  well.      It  is  by  the  famous  sculptor  D.  C.  French. 

Junipero  Serra,  with  uplifted  cross,  father  of  the  California 
Missions,  is  a  commanding  figure.  This  is  by  Douglas  Tilden. 
Then  there  is  the  Goethe  and  Schiller  monument,  by  Lauch- 
hammer,  the  Prayer  Book  Cross  on  the  height,  designed  by 
Ernest  Coxhead,  and  commemorating  the  first  English  religious 
service  on  the  coast ;  the  monument  to  Garfield,  by  Frank  Hap- 
persberger;  and  the  Wine  Press,  by  Thomas  Shields  Clark, 
in  front  of  the  Museum;  one  of  the  most  enjoyable  bits  of 
humor  in  the  Park. 


Monuments  and  Landmarks  1  35 

The  Stevenson  monument  in  Portsmouth  Square,  surmounted 
by  the  golden  galleon  and  bearing  on  its  face  the  quotation 
from  his  Christmas  sermon,  is  the  design,  in  general,  of  Bruce 
Porter,  a  San  Francisco  artist.  The  galleon  was  modeled  by 
George  Piper.  This  was  the  first  monument  ever  erected  to 
the  author,  whose  memory  San  Franciscans  have  taken  to 
their  hearts  since  his  sojourn  here  as  of  one  of  their  native  sons. 
The  inscription  reads: 

To  Remember  Robert  Louis  Stevenson. 

To  be  honest,  to  be  kind,  to  earn  a  little,  to  spend  a  little 
less — to  make  upon  the  whole  a  family  happier  for  his  pres- 
ence— to  renounce  when  that  shall  be  necessar})  and  not  be 
embittered — to  ^eep  a  few  friends,  but  these  without  capitu- 
lation— above  all,  on  the  same  grim  condition,  to  ^eep  friends 
with  himself,  here  is  a  task  lor  all  that  a  man  has  of  fortitude 
and  delicac}). 

Portsmouth  Square  (see  index)  was  one  of  Stevenson  s 
loafing  places.  Here  he  found  interesting  bits  of  the  city  s 
life  and  human  character,  while  enduring  his  poverty  with  just 
that  fortitude  of  which  the  stone  now  speaks  and  "keeping 
friends  with  himself  on  the  same  grim  condition"  that  he  laid 
down  the  others. 

In  Washington  Square,  between  Union  and  Filbert,  Stock- 
ton and  Powell  streets,  is  one  of  the  series  of  Cogswell  monu- 
ments, with  a  statue  of  Benjamin  Franklin. 

A  fine  thing  by  M.  Earl  Cummings  is  the  bronze  figure 
of  the  old  man  drinking  from  his  hand  at  the  pool  in  the 
little  triangle  of  green  cut  off  from  this  park  by  the  slant  of 
Columbus  avenue. 

In  Union  Square  the  Dewey  monument,  San  Francisco's 
Column  of  Victory,  by  Robert  I.  Aitken,  celebrates  the  battle 
of  Manila  Bay. 

In  the  downtown  section  of  the  city  so  few  old  landmarks 
survived  the   fire  that  those  which  did  escape   are  the  dearer 


1  36  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

for  their  rarity.  There  were  some  residences  on  Russian  Mill, 
some  old  houses  in  the  Fort  Mason  military  reservation,  in  one 
of  which  Senator  Broderick  died  of  the  wound  he  received 
in  a  duel  with  Judge  Terry  in  1859;  the  Appraisers'  building 
on  Sansome  street  between  Washington  and  Jackson;  the  old 
Parr  oil  building  at  the  northwest  corner  of  Montgomery  and 
California  streets,  built  in  1852,  of  granite  shaped  and  squared 
in  China  and  put  up  in  San  Francisco  by  Chinese  workmen ; 
the  Temple  Emanu  El,  on  Sutter  street,  whose  towers  once  bore 
the  turnip-shaped  Oriental  domes  that  became  a  sort  of  insignia 
of  San  Francisco  in  every  typical  picture  of  the  city ;  St.  Fran- 
cis' church  at  Columbus  avenue  and  Vallejo  street,  built  in 
1859,  and  "Old  St.  Mary's"  at  California  street  and  Grant 
avenue,  built  in  1854,  "0/J  St.  Mary's,"  as  most  San  Francis- 
cans affectionately  call  it,  is  the  oldest  church  edifice  in  the  city, 
except  the  Mission  Dolores.  It  succeeded  St.  Francis'  church 
as  the  cathedral,  and  was  the  scene  of  the  labors  of  Arch- 
bishop Alemany,  whose  portrait  appears  in  one  of  the  stained 
glass  windows  of  the  vestibule,  opposite  that  of  Padre  Junipero 
Serra.  Here  the  fine  copy  of  Murillo's  Immaculate  Con- 
ception, flanked  by  a  St.  Michael  and  an  Annunciation,  help 
produce  a  most  devotional  atmosphere,  just  where  the  com- 
mercial part  of  the  city  meets  the  Chinese  quarter. 

On  Nob  Hill,  in  California  street  between  Mason  and 
Cushman  streets,  is  the  brown  stone  mansion  that  formerly  be- 
longed to  James  C.  Flood,  the  Comstock  millionaire.  Some- 
what enlarged,  it  is  now  the  spacious  and  beautiful  home  of 
the  Pacific  Union  Club. 

Besides  these,  there  is  the  Monigomer))  Bloc1(,  on  the  east 
side  of  Montgomery  street,  between  Merchant  and  Washington, 
which,  through  some  strange  freak  of  the  air  drafts,  entirely 
escaped  the  flames.  It  dates  from  1853,  having  been  built 
by  the  law  firm  of  Halleck,  Peachy,  Billings  &  Park.  The 
first  named  member  of  the  firm  became  distinguished  later  as 
Major  General  Henry  W.  Halleck,  the  original  of  the  statue 
in  Golden  Gate  Park. 


Monuments  and  Landmarlfs 


137 


"TREASURE  ISLAND." 


I  38  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

Coppas  restaurant,  with  its  black  cats  and  Bohemians  on 
the  walls,  and  other  vagaries  of  the  artists  that  foregathered 
there,  was  in  the  southern  or  Merchant  street  corner  of  the 
Montgomery  Block.  And  in  the  northern  corner  still  remains 
one  living,  organic  relic,  not  merely  of  the  city  that  was,  before 
the  great  fire  of  1906,  but  of  the  older  mining-camp  city  of 
the  "fifties" — the  Banff  Exchange  saloon,  with  its  old  steel  en- 
gravings, its  pavement  laid  in  1852  of  marble  slabs  that  came 
around  the  Horn,  its  walnut  bar  whose  front  moulding  has  been 
worn  down  to  one  smooth  bevel  by  the  coat-sleeves  of  the  count- 
less bankers,  brokers  and  adventurers  that  have  rested  there 
for  their  social  glass,  its  Wedgwood  handled  beer  pumps, 
its  sedate  mirrors,  its  silver  bell  wine-cooler,  souvenir  of  the 
days  when  "Bell  of  Moscow"  champagne  was  the  favorite 
tipple  of  its  frequenters. 

This  has  been  no  common  bar.  In  its  day  it  was  a  focus 
of  activity  in  the  seething  young  city.  It  was  in  the  heart  of 
town.  William  Tecumseh  Sherman  had  a  bank  nearby.  It 
was  while  crossing  the  corner  in  front  of  the  Bank  Exchange 
on  May  14,  1856,  that  James  King  of  William  was  shot  down 
by  James  P.  Casey — a  murder  that  led  to  the  uprising  of  the 
Vigilance  Committee  of  that  year. 

Before  the  Stock  and  Exchange  Board  was  organized  in 
1862,  the  Bank  Exchange  was  the  rendezvous  of  the  stock 
brokers,  and  here  they  transacted  most  of  their  business.  Law- 
yers, doctors,  engineers,  members  of  the  professions,  dropped 
in  to  meet  the  leading  men  of  the  young  community  and  hear 
the  news  of  the  day. 

Bret  Harte  and  Mark  Twain  knew  this  place  well. 

In  later  days  a  dark,  thin-faced,  quiet  man  came  to  haunt  a 
certain  corner.  Usually  he  stood  at  the  west  end  of  the  bar 
with  his  back  against  the  wall,  in  conversation  by  the  hour 
with  E.  J.  Moore,  attorney  for  Adolph  Sutro.  The  thin 
man  was  not  much  of  a  talker,  but  he  was  a  grand  listener,  and 
here  he  absorbed  the  lore  of  what  he  later  declared  to  be  the 
most  romantic  city  in  America.      His  lodging  during  part  of 


The  Old  Cemeteries  139 

the  time  was  just  across  the  corner,  at  8  Montgomery  avenue 
— Mrs.  Hunt's.  You  can  not  find  it,  for  the  building  of  the 
Fugazi  Banca  Popolare  Operaia  ItaHana  stands  on  the  site. 
But  that  a  place  of  so  much  local  atmosphere  and  such  asso- 
ciations should  have  escaped  the  searching  mind  of  Robert 
Louis  Stevenson  is  not  to  be  imagined. 

The  financial  center  has  moved  away  from  Washington  and 
Montgomery  streets.  The  Bank  Exchange  is  close  pressed  by 
the  Latin  quarter.  An  Italian  syndicate  owns  the  building. 
But  right  at  his  post  behind  the  slab  of  sleeve-worn  walnut, 
in  spite  of  the  earthquake  and  fire  and  the  changes  of  time, 
you  may  find  Duncan  Nicol,  with  his  recollections,  and  his 
old-time  skill,  and  his  pince-nez  hung  on  his  ear,  less  bar- 
keep'  than  apothecary,  compounding  the  same  tried  prescriptions 
that  gladdened  the  ways  of  the  past. 


LONE  MOUNTAIN,  AND  THE  OLD  CEMETERIES 

From  various  heights  the  visitor  sees,  in  the  northern  part 
of  the  city  and  about  on  the  median  line  of  the  peninsula,  a 
rounded  hill,  surmounted  by  a  tall  cross.  On  the  slopes  of 
Lone  Mountain,  many  of  the  great  adventurers  that  built  San 
Francisco  made  their  last  camp  in  the  west.  About  it,  on 
all  four  sides,  lie  those  dim  old  gardens  of  the  dead,  Calvary, 
Laurel  Hill,  and  the  Masonic  and  Odd  Fellows  cemeteries. 
Some,  in  places,  have  gone  partly  back  to  nature.  Burial 
in  them  was  prohibited  by  the  Board  of  Supervisors  in  1  900, 
and  in  1912  the  Board  declared  its  intention  to  order  them 
vacated.  But  while  they  remain  they  are  worth  a  visit  for  their 
associations,  their  surroundings,  and  the  softened  and  winsome 
beauty  that  time  has  put  upon  them. 

Lone  Mountain  rises  to  a  height  of  468  feet,  between  St. 
Rose's  avenue  on  the  north,  (one  block  south  of  Geary  street), 
Turk  street  on  the  south.  Masonic  avenue  on  the  east  and 
Parker  avenue  on  the  west,  within  the  quadrangle  formed  by 


1  40  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

the  four  old  burial  places.  It  affords  one  of  the  finest  views 
of  the  city.  To  ascend,  the  best  approach  is  at  the  south- 
^^•est  corner,  which  can  be  reached  by  taking  the  Gearp  Street 
Municipal  Railivav  to  Parser  avenue,  and  walking  a  block, 
south,  or  the  McAllister  street  car.  No.  5,  and  walking  a  block 
north.  The  cemeteries  about  it  can  be  reached  by  the  same 
cars — Laurel  Hill  cemeterv  more  conveniently  by  taking  the 
California  street  cable  to  Presidio  avenue,  or  a  Sutter  street 
car.  Lines  /  or  2,  which  pass  the  entrance. 

The  prospect  from  the  top  of  Lone  Mountain  is  an  almost 
uninterrupted  cyclorama  of  San  Francisco. 

It  was  of  Lone  Mountain  that  San  Francisco's  poet,  Bret 
Harte,  wrote: 

This  IS  that  hill  of  awe 

That    Persian   Sindbad   saw, — 

The  mount  magnetic ; 
And  on  its  seaward  face, 
Scattered  along  its  base. 

The  wrecks  prophetic. 


This   is  the  end  of  all; 
Sun  thyself  by  the  wall, 

O  poorer  Hindbad! 
Envy  not  Sindbad's  fame: 
Here   come  alike  the  same, 

Hindbad  and  Sindbad. 

Calvary,  the  Roman  Catholic  cemetery,  lies  on  the  eastern 
buttress  of  the  hill,  between  Geary  and  Turk  streets.  Masonic 
and  St.  Joseph's  avenues.  All  about  it  the  city  bears  the 
stamp  of  perennial,  striving  youth;  but  here  is  a  place  conse- 
crated and  apart,  where  one  feels  the  past,  and  the  sweet  peace 
of  age.  Weathered  headstones  totter  in  the  shade  of  ancient 
willows  and  cypress,  and  the  air  is  perfumed  with  the  breath 
of  lupins  and  old  Castilian  roses. 

At  the  eastern  end  you  will  find  the  family  vault  of  W.  S. 
O'Brien,  of  the  bonanza  mining  firm  of  Flood  &  O'Brien;  of 
William  Sharon,  where  Mrs.  Sharon  lies,  though  he  is  buried 


The  Old  Cemeteries  141 

in  Laurel  Hill;  of  the  Dunphys,  the  Shirleys,  the  De  Laveages; 
and  the  tomb  of  Peter  Donahue,  connected  with  such  early 
industrial  enterprises  as  the  founding  of  the  Union  Iron  Works 
and  what  is  now  the  Northwestern  Pacific  Railway,  and  his 
son,  James  Mervyn  Donahue,  who  gave  San  Francisco  the 
monument  to  "Mechanics"  that  greets  the  visitor  at  Bush  and 
Battery  streets. 

Even  here  they  offer  hospitality  in  the  city  of  their  pride,  for 
one  can  mount  by  granite  stairs  to  the  roof  of  the  Donahue 
mausoleum  and  get  a  close  view  of  one  of  the  most  populous 
parts  of  San  Francisco. 

Laurel  Hill,  known  to  the  older  San  Franciscans  as  Lone 
Mountain  Cemetery,  lies  on  the  north  flank  of  Lone  Moun- 
tain, between  California  street,  Presidio  and  Parker  ave- 
nues, and  the  south  side  of  the  private  property  lying  to- 
ward Geary  street.  The  California  street  cable  line  ends 
at  its  northeast  corner,  and  the  Sutter  and  Clement  line.  No.  2, 
passes  its  main  entrance  on  Presidio  avenue  at  the  head  of 
Bush  street.      It  is  cpen  from   7  a.   m.  to  5  p.   m. 

"Lone  Mountain  Cemetery,"  as  Laurel  Hill  is  still  called 
by  the  older  San  Franciscans,  is  peculiarly  the  necropolis  of 
San  Francisco,  and  the  repository  of  many  historical  data. 

On  stone  and  mausoleum  are  chiseled  memorials  of  all 
stages  of  the  city's  life. 

Here  is  the  grave  of  Edward  Gilbert,  first  editor  of  the 
"Alta  California."  Near  the  southeast  corner  of  the  cemetery 
is  a  plain  shaft  bearing  the   inscription: 

Thomas  J.  Nevins.  The  Board  of  Education  and  Citizens  of  San 
Francisco  unite  in  erecting  this  monument  to  his  memory  as  the  Founder 
of  Common  Schools  in  this  City  and  State,  and  as  the  first  Superintendent 
of  Common  Schools  in  San  Francisco. 

Here  are  souvenirs  of  that  great  uprising  of  the  "people 
in  arms,"  the  Vigilance  Committee  of  1856.  Up  Greenwood 
avenue,  past  the  lodge  and  just  beyond  the  grave  of  Mortimer 
Fulton,  "Chief  Engineer  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship,  Golden 
Age,"   who  died  in    1856,   is   a  small   hill   encircled  with   an 


1  42  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

iron  fence  overgrown  by  its  laurestina  hedge,  with  a  white 
obeHsk  to  James  King  of  William,  whose  murder  by  James 
P.  Casey  provoked  the  resort  to  extra-legal  public  defense. 
Near  by  is  the  grave  of  Col.  Richardson,  the  victim  of  Charles 
Cora,  hanged  by  the  Vigilantes  with  Casey.  They  hanged 
Cora  largely  because  they  feared  that  the  eloquence  of  his 
counsel.  Col.  E.  D.  Baker,  killed  at  Ball's  Bluff  during  the 
civil  war,  and  also  buried  in  Laurel  Hill,  might  secure  him 
an   acquittal. 

One  tomb  is  worthy  to  be  a  shrine  of  childhood;  that  of 
Robert  B.  Woodward,  the  shrewd  and  kindly  Rhode  Island 
Yankee  that  made  a  fortune  providing  rough  comfort  for  miners 
and  ranchers  in  the  old  ''What  Cheer  House"  at  Sacramento 
and  Leidesdorff  streets,  and  put  a  large  part  of  it  into  a  fairy- 
land for  children  in  "the  Mission."  Old  timers  that  got 
their  money's  worth  at  his  homely  hotel,  and  San  Franciscans  of 
this  generation  whose  childhood  recollections  are  the  brighter 
for  memories  of  Woodivard's  Gardens  will  recall  his  name 
with  affection,  though  both  gardens  and  hotel  are  gone. 

Here  also  is  the  tomb  of  Dr.  Hugh  H.  Toland,  founder  of 
Toland  Medical  College,  which  he  "transferred  by  uncon- 
ditional gift  to  the  University  of  California,  and  thereby  estab- 
lished its  Department  of  Medicine,"  and  of  Elias  Cooper, 
"who  founded  Cooper  Medical  College,  A.  D.  1872";  now 
the  medical  department  of  Stanford  University. 

Thos.  O.  Larkin,  Silas  W.  Sanderson,  Lorenzo  Sawyer, 
Horace  Hawes,  A.  A.  Sargent,  Hall  McAllister,  John  F. 
Miller,  are  some  of  the  familiar  names  in  politics  and  the  law. 
Col.  John  W.  Geary  is  buried  here,  the  last  Alcalde  and  first 
Mayor  of  San  Francisco.  The  family  tomb  of  Milton  S. 
Latham,  one  of  California's  early  governors  is  one  of  the  finest 
in  this  cemetery. 

Capt.  Joseph  L.  Folsom,  who  first  suggested  the  name  of 
"San  Francisco"  for  the  little  hamlet  on  the  bay  shore,  is 
buried  in  Laurel  Hill.  Arthur  Page  Brown,  architect  of 
the   Ferry  building,   a   man  that  profoundly  affected  the  style 


The  Old  Cemeteries  143 


of  architecture  in  San  Francisco,  found  his  last  resting  place 
here.  There  are  names  well  known  in  finance,  such  as  William 
H.  Dimond  and  Peder  Sather;  and  Isaac  Friedlander,  whose 
monument  bears  a  sheaf  of  wheat  in  token  of  the  part  he  played 
in  the  world  movement  of  the  cereal  when  San  Francisco  saw 
the  grain  ships  leave  her  port  at  the  average  rate  of  one  a  day. 
Here  again  are  great  names  of  the  Comstock  epoch:  William 
C.  Ralston,  who  founded  the  Bank  of  CaHfornia  and  built 
the  Palace  Hotel,  and  William  Sharon,  United  States  Senator, 
and  genius  of  ore  milling;  and  Senator  Fair,  partner  of  John 
W.  Mackay. 

On  a  knoll  amid  the  more  important  mausoleums  is  a  mon- 
ument to  Senator  David  C.  Broderick,  that  "Senator  of  the 
Fifties"  who  was  killed  in  a  duel  with  Judge  Terry  in  early 
days,  and  over  whose  bier  Col.  E.  D.  Baker  pronounced  a 
notable  funeral  oration.  The  western  spirit  of  democracy 
speaks  from  the  stone,  which  bears  the  name  of  Broderick 
between  the  words  "Mechanic"  and  "Senator." 

At  the  far  western  end  are  German,  Scandinavian  and 
French  plats;  and  the  graves  of  three  Japanese  sailors,  to  which 
the  march  of  events  in  the  Pacific  have  given  a  peculiar  his- 
torical interest.     The  headstone  of  the  central  one  reads: 

In  memory  of  Me-Nay-Kee-Tchee,  who  died  May  20,  1860.  A 
Japanese  sailor  attached  to  Steam  Corvette  "Candmmarrah,"  the  first  Jap- 
anese vessel  that  visited  any  foreign  port.  This  monument  is  erected  by 
order  of  the  Emperor  of  Japan,  by  Charles  Wolcotl  Brooks. 

Odd  FelloTvs'  Cemetery  lies  directly  west  of  Lone  Mountain, 
between  Parker  avenue  and  Arguello  boulevard,  Turk  and 
Geary  streets.  The  columbarium  is  a  beautiful  structure,  in  a 
buoyant  and  joyous  spirit,  with  a  fine  dome,  good  mosaics, 
and  an  interior  illuminated  by  stained  glass  windows  some 
of  which  are  of  a  high  order  of  merit.  The  two  galleries  ol 
alcoves  are  designated,  on  the  first  tier,  by  the  Greek  names 
of  the  winds,  and  on  the  second  by  the  names  of  the  constel- 
lations as  they  appeared  at  the  hour  of  the  dedication  of  the 
building.     The  architect  was  B.  J.  S.  Cahill. 


1  44  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

Masonic  Cemetery  lies  south  of  Lone  Mountain,  between 
Turk  and  Fulton  streets.  Masonic  and  Parker  avenues.  There 
are  some  fine  mausoleums  here,  especially  the  Wieland  tomb 
in  the  southwest  corner.  A  humble  grave  contains  the  dust 
of  Emperor  Norton,  that  strange  figure  of  the  older  city,  whose 
only  empire  was  in  his  own  touched  brain  and  the  hearts  of  his 
San  Francisco  subjects. 

By  far  the  most  quaint  and  interesting  object  in  this  en- 
closure is  the  grey  granite  pyramid,  about  eight  feet  in  height, 
toward  the  southeast  corner,  marking  the  grave  of  Hugh  Whit- 
tell,  pioneer.     Its  naive  inscriptions  read: 

All   you   that   chance   this   grave   to   see, 

If  you  can  read  English  may   learn  by  me. 

I   traveled,  read  and  studied,  mankind  to  know, 

And  what  most  mterested  them  here  below. 

The  present  or  the  future  state  and  love  of  power. 

Envy,    fear,   love  or  hate  occupied  each  wakeful   hour. 

All  would  teach,  but  few  would  understand. 

The  greater  part  know  little  of  either  God  or  Man, 

Love  one  another,  a  very  good  maxim  all  agreed. 

Learn,  labor  and  wait,  if  you  would  succeed. 

In  the  five  divisions  of  the  world  I  have  been. 

The  cities  of  Peking  and  Constantinople  I  have  seen, 

On  the  first  railway  I  rode  before  others  were  made, 

Saw  the  first  telegraph  operate,  so  useful  to  trade, 

In  the  first  steamship  the  Atlantic  I  crossed, 

Suffered  six  shipwrecks  where   lives   were   lost. 

In  the  first  steamer  to  California  I  did  sail. 

And  went  to  China  by  the  first   Pacific  Mail, 

After  many  endeavors  my  affairs  to  fix, 

A  short  time  I  will  occupy  less  than  two  by  six. 


MISSION  DOLORES. 

Located  on  the  west  side  of  Dolores  street,  between  Sixteenth 
and  Seventeenth.     Open  every  day  from  1  0  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m. 

Market  street  line.  No.  8,  transfer  at  Church  street  to  Fill- 
more and  Sixteenth  line.  No.  22,  and  get  off  at  Sixteenth  street. 

This  is  San   Francisco's  only  very  old  building,   interesting 


Mi 


Dolor 


145 


as  a  memorial  of  the  first  white  men  on  the  peninsula  and 
interesting  also  for  some  of  the  graves  in  the  little  vine-tangled 
cemetery  under  its  south  wall. 

The  Mission  was  established  in  1  776,  the  year  of  the 
Declaration  of  Independence,  no  echo  of  which,  we  may  sup- 
pose,  reached   it   for  years,   and   then   merely   as   an   affair   of 


olUENTAL    SECTION    I'oKTOLA    PAKADE,    PASSING    JIISSIOX    DOLURES. 


a  foreign  people.  Junipero  Serra  blessed  and  consecrated  it 
as  the  northernmost  of  the  California  missions;  although  others 
v/ere  established  at  San  Rafael  and  Sonoma  several  years 
afterward. 

The  building  itself  dates  from  1  782.  The  walls  are  four 
feet  thick,  built  of  adobe,  the  sun-dried  bricks  of  the  Spanish 
pioneers,  as  the  deep  embrasures  of  the  windows  show.  Two 
circumstances  indicate  that  it  must  have  been  considered  the 
mosj  iinportant  of  the  missions;  its  main  altar  is  the  finest  among 


1  46  Handbool(  for  San  Francisco 

them  all ;  and  it  bears  the  name  of  the  founder  of  the  Franciscan 
order,  San  Francisco  d'  Assisi,  to  which  order  had  been 
entrusted  the  civilizing  of  California. 

Against  the  northern  wall  is  a  large  painted  screen,  built  in 
sections,  symbolizing  the  doctrine  of  the  Holy  Eucharist.  This 
screen  was  placed  in  front  of  the  altar  at  the  celebration  of  the 
Eucharist,  once  a  year.  Near  the  entrance,  set  in  the  red- 
baked  tiles  of  the  floor,  is  the  marble  slab  that  marks  the  tomb 
of  the  Noe  family,  Spanish  grantees  and  grandees  of  the  days 
"before  the  Gringo  came." 

There  are  three  bells  in  the  facade,  hanging  by  ropes  of 
plaited  rawhide ;  two  are  cracked,  and  one  has  lost  its  tongue. 
These,  though  mute,  are  the  Mission  carillon  of  which  Bret 
Harte  wrote: 

Bells  of  the  past,   whose  long-forgotten  music 

Still  fills  the  wide  expanse, 
Tingeing  the  sober  twilight  of  the  present 

With  color  of  romance, 

I  hear  you  call,  and  see  the  sun  descending 

On  rock,  and  wave  and  sand. 
As  down  the  Coast  the  Mission  voices  blending 

Girdle  the  heathen  land. 

Borne  on  the  swell  of  your  long  waves  receding, 

I  touch  the  farther  Past, — 
I  see  the  dying  glow  of  Spanish  glory, 

The  sunset  dream  and  last! 

Before  me  rise  the  dome-shaped  Mission  towers. 

The   white  Presidio; 
The  swart  commander  in  his  leathern  jerkin. 

The  priest  in  stole  of  snow. 

Once  more   I  see  Portola's  cross  uplifting 

Above  the  setting  sun; 
And  past  the  headland,  northward,  slowly  drifting, 

The  freighted  galleon. 

The  ceiling  and  ceiling  beams  retain  the  decorations  of  red 
and  white  paint  the  Indians  put  on  them  over  I  00  years  ago. 

Within  a  short  while  after  its  founding  the  Mission  had  814 
Indian  communicants.     The  Rev.  Walter  Colton,  in  his  "Three 


Mission  Dolores 


147 


Years  in  California,"  says  that  in  1825  its  wealth  had  grown 
to  76,000  head  of  cattle,  950  tame  horses,  2000  brood  mares, 
84  fine  stud,  820  mules,  79,000  sheep,  2,000  hogs,  456  yoke 
of  oxen,  18,000  bushels  of  wheat  and  barley,  $35,000  in 
merchandise  and  $25,000  in  cash.  Today  all  that  the  residents 
of  the  neighborhood  know  of  Indians  is  what  they  have  seen 


INTERIOR  OF  THE   MISSION  DOLORES. 


Weidner,   photo. 


of  them  in  Wild  West  shows,  or  read  behind  the  lid  of  the 
desk  in  school.  Very  few  representatives  of  the  Spanish  fami- 
lies of  the  valley  are  left;  and  the  old  establishment  finds  itself 
pressed  upon  by  such  modernity  as  the  ball  park,  the  High 
School,  the  Swedish  Tabernacle  and  the  Norwegian  Lutheran 
church. 

Among  the  myrtle  vines  and  tottering  willows  of  the  cemetery 
are  three  graves  of  especial  interest  for  their  association  with 
San  Francisco  history. 


I  48  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

One  is  the  tomb  of  Don  Luis  Antonio  Arguello,  first  gov- 
ernor of  Alta  California  under  the  Mexican  regime;  born  in 
San  Francisco,  in  1  784,  and  brother  to  that  Concepcion  de 
Arguello  whose  sad  romance  with  the  Russian,  Resanov,  Bret 
Harte  and  Gertrude  Atherton  have  embalmed  in  verse  and 
story. 

Another  is  "Sacred  to  the  memory  of  James  P.  Casey, 
who  departed  this  life  May  22,  1856;  aged  27  years."  The 
inscription  in  no  way  discloses  the  grim  fact  that  on  that  date 
he  was  hanged  by  the  Vigilance  Committee  at  Fort  Gunn])bags 
on  Sacramento  street,  for  the  murder  of  James  King  of  William. 

And  another  stone  is  "Sacred  to  the  memory  of  James 
Sullivan,  who  died  by  the  hands  of  the  V.  C.  May  31,  1856, 
aged  45  years."  This  inscription  is  not  literally  true,  although 
it  might  have  been,  for  this  was  "Yankee  Sullivan,"  world's 
champion  pugilist  of  his  day,  who  suffered  the  solitude  of  his 
plank  cell  in  that  same  Fort  Gunnybags,  and  heard  the  grim 
conferences,  and  the  midnight  alarms,  and  the  guards  moving 
to  and  fro,  and  the  prisoners  brought  in  and  taken  out  again, 
until  terror  bested  him  and  he  killed  himself. 

The  great  parade  of  the  Portola  festival  of  1 909  was 
halted  before  the  Mission,  while  the  modern  representative  of 
Don  Caspar  de  Portola  saluted  the  modern  representatives  of 
the  Padres. 

In  the  parked  space  in  front  of  the  Mission  is  a  bell  marking 
the  road  as  El  Cam'nio  Real,  the  "Highway  of  the  King"  ot 
Spain.  It  is  the  road  of  the  Franciscan  monks  and  the  sol- 
diers of  Portola,  the  route  of  travel  from  the  Mission  at  San 
Diego.  Up  this  long  way  they  came,  in  cassock  and  in  cuera, 
in  cowl  and  morion,  advancing  the  sway  of  the  Cross  and  the 
frontiers  of  the  King,  through  the  Salinas  valley,  by  Monterey 
and  up  the  San  Francisco  peninsula,  and  their  route  is  dotted 
with  missions — San  Gabriel,  Santa  Barbara,  San  Luis  Obispo, 
San  Miguel  Archangel,  San  Antonio  de  Padua,  Soledad,  San 
Carlos,  Carmel,  Santa  Clara,  San  Juan  Bautista,  Santa  Cruz 
and   many   more.      The   sign   board   declares   that   this   is   the 


Golden  Gate  Park 


49 


"Mision  de  los  Dolores,  dedicated  to  San  Francisco  de  Assisi, 
Oct.  9,  1776."  Here,  then,  we  have  the  origin  of  the  name 
and  the  beginning  of  San  Francisco,  almost  at  the  end  of  the 
northward  march  of  the  Padres. 


ClIILDKEX'S  PLAYGROUN 


.>l,i)i:X   GATE  PARK. 


GOLDEN  GATE  PARK. 

From  Stanyan  street,  three  miles  westward  to  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  and  from  Lincoln  Way  on  the  south  2,500  feet  north- 
ward to  Fulton  street;  with  a  "Panhandle"  a  block  wide,  be- 
tween Oak  and  Fell  streets,  carrying  the  Main  Drive  eastward 
eight  blocks  to  Baker  street. 

Turk  &-  Eddy  car.  Line  No.  4;  McAllister  No.  5,  Hay^es 
No.  6;  Ha'ight  No.  7 ;  or  Gear})  Street  Municipal  Railroad, 
marked  A. 

This  is  the  great  park  of  the  United  States,  the  crowning 
achievement  in  providing  the  people  of  a  city  with  gardens 
cind  forests  and  lakes  and  streams  and  waterfalls  of  their  own. 


150 


Handbook  for  San  Francisco 


ON    STOW    LAKE,    IN    GOLDEN    GATE    PAlUv. 


Lathe,   photo. 


Golden  Gate  Park  151 


within  city  limits.  Nothing  hke  it  in  extent  and  in  loveliness 
exists  in  any  other  American  municipality. 

There  are  1013  acres  in  this  Park,  and  the  area  contains 
long  drives,  walks,  lakes  with  row  boats,  hills  with  fine  pros- 
pects from  their  summits,  nine  baseball  diamonds,  six  baseball 
fields,  a  dozen  tennis  courts,  handball  courts,  a  bowling  green, 
the  most  completely  equipped  children's  playground  to  be  found 
anywhere,  a  thirty-acre  stadium,  with  a  trotting  horse  speed- 
way 60  feet  wide  and  an  infield  for  all  sorts  of  field  sports; 
bear,  deer,  buffalo,  kangaroo,  elk,  Alaskan  moose,  the  largest 
windmill  in  the  world,  the  only  vessel  that  ever  sailed  through 
the  Northwest  Passage,  and  thousands  of  varieties  of  plant  life, 
from  the  Pulu  fern  of  Hawaii  to  the  Norway  maples  that 
take  on  autumn  tints  in  spring — for  the  Park  corresponds  and 
exchanges  with  every  botanical  garden  of  any  size  in  the  world. 

Here  one  sees  the  healthy  life  and  leisure  of  the  community. 
San  Franciscans  use  their  park.  The  drives  swarm  with  fine 
equipages,  fast  motors,  and  ruddy- faced  lovers  of  good  horse- 
flesh bound  for  the  speedway  in  wire-wheeled  sulkies.  Youth 
rides  the  bridle  paths.  Groups  of  children  are  rolling  and 
tumbling  about  the  lawns,  for  there  is  not  a  "Keep-off-the 
Grass"  sign  in  the  whole  thousand  acres. 

The  Main  Drive,  including  the  part  in  the  Panhandle  is 
4|/2  miles  long.  There  is  usually  a  surrey  near  the  Stanyan 
street  entrance  that  will  take  you  around  the  drives  at  the 
rate  of  a  dollar  an  hour,  and  another  at  the  Eighth  avenue 
gateway.  Automobiles  for  Park  service  are  to  be  had  from 
any  of  the  downtown  hotels,  or  auto  livery  stands.  But  if  you 
would  see  the  Park  properly,  walk.  Take  a  day  for  it  and  you 
will  wish  the  time  were  longer. 

Entering  by  the  Main  Drive  from  the  Panhandle,  you  pass, 
on  your  right,  the  pretty  stone  and  tile-roofed  lodge  of  the 
superintendent,  John  McLaren,  to  whom  is  due  most  of  the 
credit  for  the  transformation  of  the  sand  dunes  into  this  place 
of  beauty.  McLaren  is  recognized  abroad  as  one  of  the  great 
park  managers  of  the  world,   and  has  been  put  in  charge  of 


152  Handbool(  for  San  Francisco 

the  landscape  gardening  for  the  Panama-Pacific  Exposition. 

The  Conservatories  are  worth  a  visit  for  they  contain  a  great 
collection  of  orchids,  palms,  ferns,  water  lilies,  cycads,  lycopods 
and  a  profusion  of  flowering  things  too  numerous  to  name. 

Northeastward  of  the  Conservatories  is  the  Arizona  Gar- 
den, of  cactus  and  yucca  and  flowering  aloe.  There  is  usually 
a  "century  plant"  in  bloom  here. 

The  North  Ridge  drive  swings  around  from  behind  the 
conservatories,  and  opposite  its  junction  with  the  Main  Drive 
the  trail  takes  off  to  the  left,  for  the  Aviary.  Here  are  gor- 
geous pheasants,  cockatoos,  Alaskan  ptarmigan,  great  Cali- 
fornia eagles  and  a  riot  of  winged  life. 
BUFFALO   HERD. 

Beyond  the  A.viary,  southwestwardly,  is  the  Buffalo  pad- 
dock, containing  what  "Buffalo  Bill"  declared  to  be  one  of  the 
finest  herds  of  American  bison  in  existence. 

South  of  the  Buffalo  paddock,  turn  back  on  the  Main  Drive 
to  the  eastward.  At  this  end  of  the  Park,  joined  by  winding 
roads,  are  grouped  the  tennis  courts,  the  baseball  grounds,  the 
croquet  grounds,  the  bowling  green,  and  the  children's  quarters 
with  the  playground  apparatus,  donkey  drives  and  other  juve- 
nile delights.  Simple  refreshments  are  provided  here  at  low 
prices. 

Lake  Alvord  with  its  fountain  is  opposite  the  Haight  and 
Stanyan  street  entrance  to  the  Park. 

The  Bear  garden  contains  some  fine  specimens.  Nearby,  to 
the  westward,  is  the  deer  park,  and  farther  on,  the  Arboretum. 
Beyond  that,  still  further  westward,  is  the  large  glen  where 
range  fine  herds  of  elk,  the  noble  animal  showing  here  in  his 
perfection,  for  California  is  his  natural  home. 

Everyone  should  visit  the  Memorial  Museum.  For  descrip- 
tion, see  index. 

Broad  steps  lead  down  to  the  floor  of  Concert  Valley,  where, 
in  the  elmy  shades  before  the  Temple  of  Music,  the  Sunday 
afternoon  crowds  hear  selections  by  a  fine  band.  Concerts 
begin  here  at  2  p.  m.  on  Sundays  and  holidays. 


Golden  Gate  Park 


53 


The  Temple  of  Music  is  the  gift  of  Claus  Spreckels. 

In  the  Japanese  Tea  Garden  have  been  exercised  the  arts 
of  generations  of  garden  lovers.  Tiny  rivulets,  intricately 
cramped  and  baffled  in  their  course,  make  tinkling  water- 
falls, and  then  quiet  down  into  turbid  little  lakes  crossed 
by   quaint  bridges   and   stepping-stones.      About   their   margins 


A   RIT   OF   JAPAX,    I\   GOLDEX   GATE    PARK. 

stand  Buddha  lanterns  of  stone  and  pottery,  and  old  bronze 
cranes  forever  peering  for  fish.  Odd-looking  Asiatic  pines  and 
cedars  stretch  level  arms  above.  Trees,  dwarfed  in  porcelain 
jars,  have  been  bent  back,  bound  down,  contorted,  distorted, 
artificialized  into  strange  organic  pictures  and  living  ornament. 
If  it  is  Spring,  you  will  catch  some  of  the  wonder  of  the 
Cherry  Blossom  festival  of  Nippon;  and  with  the  cherry  blos- 
soms will  be  those  of  the  flowering  quince,  peach  and  plum, 
cultivated  not  for  their  fruit  but  for  the  dazzling  bloom  that 
sets  thick  on  every  bough. 


1  54  Handboo}(  for  San  Francisco 

Storv  Lake,  beyond  the  Japanese  garden,  is  not  only  good 
landscape  gardening,  but  quite  remarkable  engineering.  It 
consists  of  a  broad  sheet  of  water  poured  around  the  base  of 
Strawberry  Hill,  428  feet  high,  which  is  thereby  turned  into 
an  island,  accessible  by  two  bridges.  There  is  a  boat  house 
at  the  lake's  western  end,  where  boats  can  be  hired  at  a  nom- 
inal charge.  Two  piers  here  are  used  by  the  San  Francisco 
Fly-Casting  club. 

Swans  glide  on  the  waters,  and  during  the  winter  months 
there  may  be  a  thousand  old  emerald-headed  mallard  drakes 
and  their  sedately  garbed  mates  poking  about  among  the  lily 
pads,  secure  from  the  gunner  and  making  fine  weather  of  it.  In 
spring  the  mother  ducks  will  tow  fleets  of  little  ones  around  the 
lake    after    them. 

From  the  top  of  Strawberry  Hill  the  Farallone  Islands  can 
often  be  seen. 

HUNTINGTON    FALLS. 

Quail  abound,  and  little  jewel-eyed  rabbits.  At  the  east- 
ern end  of  the  hill  are  Huntington  Falls,  which  tumble  from  a 
reservoir  near  the  top.  Amid  the  spray  at  the  foot  of  their 
descent,  in  a  singularly  beautiful  nook,  grow  magnolias,  rock 
maples,  and  tree  ferns. 

Directly  north  of  Stow  Lake  boat-house,  on  a  bluff  over- 
looking the  Main  Drive,  stands  the  Prater  Book  Cross,  of 
ancient  Celtic  design.  It  is  a  massive  piece  of  masonry,  forty 
feet  high,  and  was  erected  at  the  expense  of  the  late  George 
W.  Childs  of  the  Philadelphia  Public  Ledger,  under  the  aus- 
pices of  the  Episcopal  Diocese  of  Northern  California,  to 
commemorate  the  first  religious  service  in  the  English  language 
on  the  Pacific  Coast;  held  by  Drake's  chaplain  in  1579  on  the 
shore  of  Drake's  Bay,  north  of  the  Golden  Gate. 

Nothing  could  execeed  the  delicate  beauty  of  Lloyd  La}(e, 
with  its  graveled  margins  and  flowering  banks,  its  Portals  of 
the  Past  flanked  by  Irish  yews,  and  reflected  from  its  shining 
surface.  It  is  just  on  your  right,  near  the  Main  Drive  as  you 
travel  westward. 


Golden  Gale  Park  155 

The  doorway  belonged  to  the  A.  N.  Towne  residence,  on 
Nob  HilL 

One  can  leave  the  Main  Drive  beyond  the  first  bend  west 
of  Lloyd  Lake,  take  the  bridle  path  to  the  left  and  reach  the 
Stadium,  where  games  and  races  are  held. 

The  bridle  path  will  take  you  back  to  the  Main  Drive  near 
Spreckels  Lake,  a  broad  and  fine  sheet  of  water,  where  one 
can  see  regattas  of  model  yachts. 

Following  the  Main  Drive  still  westward  one  emerges  on 
the  Great  Highway,  between  one  of  the  Dutch  windmills  and 
the  historic  sloop  Gjoa,  with  the  U.  S.  Life  Saving  Station 
in  the  corner  just  to  the  northward. 

THE  LARGEST  WINDMILL. 

This  windmill  at  the  northwest  corner  of  the  Park,  is  the  one 
first  constructed.  It  cost  $25,000  and  has  a  capacity  of  30,- 
000  gallons  an  hour  in  a  fresh  breeze.  Its  model  is  the  type 
used  in  Holland.  The  water  pumped  is  fresh,  from  a  strong 
flow  seaward  under  the  Park  and  the  lands  adjacent,  and  the 
sails  lift  it  into  Stow  Lake. 

The  other  Dutch  windmill  at  the  southwest  corner  of  the 
Park,  is  the  largest  ever  built.  Samuel  G.  Murphy  gave  $20,- 
000  to  construct  and  equip  it.  Its  two  arms  are  1  1 4  feet 
long,  or  5  7  feet  from  center  to  tip ;  of  Oregon  pine,  two  feet 
thick  in  the  middle  and  eight  inches  at  the  ends.  It  pumps 
40,000  gallons  an  hour. 

The  object  of  main  interest  at  the  west  end  of  the  Park 
is  the  sloop  Gjoa  (pronounced  Yoah)  nested  in  rock  and  pro- 
tected by  an  iron  fence,  just  inside  the  Great  Highway.  This 
is  the  only  vessel  that  ever  sailed  through  the  Northwest  Pass- 
age, having  been  navigated  on  that  occasion  by  Capt.  Roald 
Amundsen,  discoverer  of  the  South  Pole,  who  presented  her 
to  San  Francisco  in  care  of  the  Park  Commissioners  on  June 
16,  1909. 

We  have  now  traversed  the  Park  in  a  general  way,  from 
one  end  to  the  other  and  indicated  its  most  conspicuous   fea- 


156 


Handbook  for  San  Francisco 


tures.  But  some  of  its  greatest  beauty  is  in  its  inconspicuous 
ones.  If  you  wander  back  afoot  you  will  discover  for  yourself 
more  charm  and  delight  than  we  could  ever  tell  you.  It  is  a 
"miracle  of  rare  device"  and  growing  more  beautiful  with  every 
day's  work  done  for  its  improvement ;  the  particular  pride  of 
the  people  of  San  Francisco,  the  greatest  park  in  America, 
one  of  the  great  parks  of  the  world. 


TRKK    FKUXS    IX    (JtU.DllX    (iXTV.    IWliK. 

GOLDEN    GATE    PARK    MEMORIAL    MUSEUM 
AND  ART  GALLERY. 

Situated  in  Golden  Gate  Park,  south  of  the  Tenth  avenue 
entrance.  Open  from  I  0  a.  m.,  to  4  p.  m. ;  and  on  Saturdays, 
Sundays  and  holidays  until  5  p.  m.     Admittance  free. 

Turl(  &  Eddy  car.  Line  No.  4,  to  terminus  at  Eighth  avenue 
and  Fulton  street;  or  McAllister  street  car.  Line  No.  5  to  same 
point;  or  Gear])  Street  Municipal  Railroad  to  Tenth  avenue 
entrance. 


Memorial  Museum  and  Art  Caller}) 


157 


If  you  enter  at  Eighth  avenue,  turn  to  the  right,  and  walk 
in  the  direction  of  the  Music  Stand,  past  the  monuments  to 
Starr  King,  Junipero  Serra  and  General  Grant.  The  Museum 
is  in  the  Egyptian  temple,  among  the  palm  trees,  on  the  right. 
If  you  enter  from  the  Geary  Street  Municipal  road,  at  Tenth 
avenue,  go  to  the  left,  and  pass  under  the  big  stone  bridge. 

This   museum  is  the  best  possible   monument  to  the  public 


JIK.Molil.U.  MUSEUM,  GOLDEN  GATE  PARK. 

spirit  of  the  people  of  San  Francisco.  It  has  never  had  a  pur- 
chasing fund,  and  yet,  beginning  as  a  small  collection  bought 
with  proceeds  of  the  California  Midwinter  International  Expo- 
sition, held  in  the  Park  in  1  894,  it  has  grown  by  loan  and  gift 
until  it  comprises  works  of  art  and  specimens  of  the  crafts 
valued  at  many  million  dollars,  and  relics  and  documents  that 
are  beyond  all  price. 

It   has   a   large   natural   history   collection.      Its   art   gallery 
contains  authentic  works  by  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  Dupre,  Dau- 


1  58  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

bigny.  Millet;  and  copies  of  some  fine  works  of  old  masters. 

A  history  of  San  Francisco  could  almost  be  written  from 
the  contents  of  its  Pioneer  Hall,  brought  together  by  the  in- 
dustry of  the  curator.  Prof.  George  H.  Barron. 

There  are  priceless  collections  of  ancient  oriental  carvings. 
There  are  relics  of  Napoleon  that  can  not  be  found  elsewhere. 
There  are  ethnological  exhibits  from  the  South  Pacific  and  from 
Alaska  that  could  hardly  have  been  collected  in  so  short  a  time 
at  any  other  city  than  this  focus  of  Pacific  trade. 

Three  thousand  people,  at  this  writing,  are  visiting  the  build- 
ing on  week  days,  and  over  25,000  on  Sundays. 

The  Natural  History  collection  is  in  the  upper  galleries. 
Don't  fail  to  see  the  cases  of  butterflies,  moths  and  birds.  To 
the  right,  on  the  ground  floor,  are  the  Colonial  Rooms,  and  to 
the  left  Pioneer  Hall,  with  portraits  and  mementoes  of  the 
Pioneers,  and  with  a  complete  set  of  paintings  of  the  Missions 
of  California. 

Statuar})  Hall  contains  some  beautiful  sculptures  by  Ran- 
dolph Rogers,  and  W.  W.  Story.  The  latter's  "Saul"  is  much 
admired. 

In  the  Church  Room  are  carvings,  shrines,  tabernacles,  and 
a  slipper  of  Pope  Pius  IX. 

The  Basinet  Room  contains  a  great  collection  of  Indian 
basketry. 

The  Mineral  Room  is  extremely  interesting,  as  one  would 
expect  in  the  leading  mining  state. 

The  Art  Galleries  contain  fine  portrayals  of  California  sub- 
jects, by  such  local  artists  as  Keith,  Thomas  Hill,  Gamble, 
Cadenasso,  Julian  Rix,  Theodore  Wores,  Lucia  Matthews, 
Arthur  Matthews,  Xavier  Martinez,  Charles  Rollo  Peters, 
Oscar  Kunauth,  M.  Evelyn  McCormack,  Joseph  Raphael, 
E.  G.  Slanson,  Piazzoni,  Tavernier,  Neuhaus,  Jules  Pages  and 
many  more  that  found  a  peculiar  stimulus  in  California  condi- 
tions  and    scenes. 

The  room  farthest  west,  of  the  art  galleries,  contains  some 
celebrated  canvases — "A  Saint  at   Prayer"  by  Leonardo  da 


Memorial  Museum  and  Art  Gallery 


159 


IN    STATUARY    HALL,    MEAIORIAL    MUSEUM. 

Vinci ;  a  landscape  by  Charles  Francois  Daubigny  and  a 
"Twilight"  by  Jules  Dupre,  and  between  them  hangs  a  paint- 
ing of  sheep  by  Jean  Francois  Millet. 

There  are  fine  tapestries  and  ancient  furniture  in  the  Tapeslr)) 
Room.  The  Armor  Room  illustrates  the  evolution  of  modern 
arms,  and  some  of  the  antique  armor  here  is  very  beautiful. 

Oriental  Hall  contains  some  of  the  most  curious  and  beau- 
tiful objects  to  be  found.  In  addition  to  exquisite  Chinese, 
Japanese  and  East  Indian  works  of  art,  there  is  the  lacquered 
saddle  presented  by  the  Mikado  to  General  Grant;  and  high 
on  the  south  and  west  walls  an  object  of  great  interest  and 
affection  to  San  Franciscans:  the  great  Chinese  processional 
dragon  borne  in  parades  and  festivals  on  the  heads  of  half  a 
hundred  swaying  Chinese,  before  the  days  of  the  Chinese 
Republic.      Its  last  appearance  was  in  the  Portola  parade. 

Egyptian  Hall,  Textile  Hall,  and  the  room  devoted  to 
Ceramics  are  all  very  interesting. 

The  Royal  Bavarian  Pavilion  contains  the  Jexvel  Hall,  the 
ceiling  of  which  is  modeled  on  one  in  the  royal  palace  at 
Munich.  The  carved  rock  crystals,  oriental  jade  scepters  and 
dagger  handles,  and  other  bits  of  art  work  are  no  less  than  fas- 
cinating. 

At  the  entrance  to  the  Napoleon  Room,  which  contains 
many    authentic    relics    of    the    Emperor,    is    the    gold    medal 


1 60  Handbook  for  San  Francisco  I 

presented    to    San    Francisco    by    the    Republic   of    France    to       I 
commemorate  the  rebuilding  of  the  city.  I 


THE  SAN  FRANCISCO  INSTITUTE  OF  ART. 

Situated  at  the  southeast  corner  of  CaHfornia  and  Mason 
streets,  on  the  former  site  of  the  Hopkins  mansion. 

Powell,  California  or  Sacramento  street  cars. 

Open  daily,  except  Sundays,  from  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.  Ad- 
mittance free  on  Tuesdays  and  Saturdays;  on  other  days,  25 
cents. 

The  galleries  offer  a  treat  to  art  lovers.  There  are  over 
300  paintings,  statues  and  other  works  of  art  in  the  collection. 
Attendance  at  the  Institute  of  Art  and  the  School  of  Design 
here  conducted  by  the  San  Francisco  Art  Association  is  among 
the  largest  at  institutions  of  the  kind.  The  Hopkins  mansion 
was  deeded  to  the  Regents  of  the  University  of  California  in 
trust  for  the  Art  Association  by  Edward  F.  Searles  of  Methuen, 
Mass.,  and  became  known  as  the  Mark  Hopkins  Institute 
of  Art  of  the  University  of  California.  It  was  destroyed  by 
the  conflagration  of  I  906,  but  within  little  more  than  a  year,  the 
Association  succeeded  in  erecting  a  building  on  the  old  foun- 
dations, and  reopened  the  school  with  all  its  departments.  In 
view  of  the  fact  that  the  memorial  buildings  of  the  Mark  Hop- 
kins Institute  had  been  obliterated,  it  was  decided  to  call  it 
thereafter  the  San  Francisco  Institute  of  Art. 

Among  the  more  notable  attractions  of  the  galleries  is  an 
unusual  collection  by  the  German  painters  of  the  last  century, 
including  Piloty's  painting  of  "Wallenstein  on  his  Way  to  the 
Castle  of  Egger" ;  "Portrait  of  the  Artist,"  by  Franz  von  Len- 
bach;  two  admirable  examples  of  Schreyer's  "Arab  Horse- 
men"; and  others  by  Wagner,  Weber  and  Liebermann. 

The  French  painters  are  represented  by  several  drawings 
and  water  colors,  the  work  of  such  famous  artists  as  Berne- 
Bellecour;  Rosa  Bonheur,  who  is  represented  by  a  fine  paint- 


Museum  of  Anthropology  161 

ing  of  a  "Lioness  and  Cubs";  Meissonier,  De  Neuville  and 
Millet.  There  are  two  landscapes  in  oil  by  Pelouse,  an  ex- 
ample of  Van  Marke's  cattle,  and  another  by  Troyon;  the 
"Call  to  Prayer"  by  Gerome,  and  the  "Captives"  by  Constant. 

The  most  important  accession  to  the  museum  is  the  Emanuel 
Walter  collection,  which  came  in  the  nature  of  a  bequest  from 
Emanuel  Walter,  and  represents  his  gleanings  through  Europe. 
The  catalogue  shows  a  landscape  by  Constable,  three  pieces 
by  Corot,  a  battle  piece  by  Camphausen,  a  landscape  by  Chin- 
treuil,  a  head  by  Van  Kaulbach,  and  other  pieces  by  Bou- 
guereau,  Alma-Tadema,  Jean  Francois  Millet,  Gustave  Dore, 
Landseer,  L'Hermitte,  and  many  more  of  note. 

Paintings  by  such  Californians  as  Keith,  Dickman,  Julian 
Rix  and  Thomas  Hill,  including  Arthur  Matthews'  fine  his- 
torical piece,  the  "Discovery  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  by 
Portola,"  have  been  presented  by  Mrs.  Benjamin  F.  Avery, 
Mrs.  Phoebe  A.  Hearst,  Hon.  James  D.  Phelan,  Mr.  Edward 
F.  Searles  and  others. 

The  building  is  temporary.  The  Institute  is  to  have  its 
permanent  home  in  the  civic  center.      (See  index.) 


MUSEUM  OF  ANTHROPOLOGY   (THE  HEARST 
COLLECTIONS.) 

Situated  in  the  westerly  building  of  the  Affiliated  Colleges 
of  the  University  of  California.  Admittance  free.  Open 
from  10  a.  m.,  to  4  p.  m.,  daily  except  Monday.  The  Affil- 
iated Colleges  are  on  Parnassus  avenue  opposite  Second  and 
Third  avenues,  with  a  grand  outlook  northward  across  the 
Park   and  the   Golden   Gate. 

Hayes  street  car,  Line  No.  6. 

This  is  the  largest  museum  of  its  kind  west  of  Chicago,  and 
one   of   the    most   complete    anthropological    collections    in    the 


62 


Handbook  for  San  Francisco 


world.  Its  existence  is  due  almost  entirely  to  the  munificence 
of  Mrs.  Phoebe  A.  Hearst,  who  laid  out  over  a  million  dol- 
lars assembling  it. 

From  Egypt,  Greece,  Italy  and  Peru  and  from  all  Cali- 
fornia, there  have  been  brought  together  over  75,000  objects 
illustrating  "Man  and  His  Work."  Costume,  habitation,  imple- 
ments,  ornament,   arms  and  armor,  processes  and  practices  of 


AFKll.I ATKI)  ('(>I,r,i:(;KS,  A(  KOSS  CoLDKN  caTK  I'AKK. 

men  primitive  and  civilized,  from  rearing  children  to  dispos- 
ing of  the  dead,  all  find  exemplification  here,  and  the  museum 
administration  has  adopted  the  device  of  giving  free  Sunday  and 
holidays  afternoon  lectures  at  3  o'clock,  to  make  the  under- 
standing of  the  subject  more  general. 

These  lectures  are  unique.  So  also  is  the  "revolving  ex- 
hibit" of  articles  from  different  departments,  on  which  the  lec- 
tures are  based,  and  which  are  changed  every  two  months. 

The  present  value  of  the  collection  is  in  the  neighborhood  of 
$5,000,000.      It  has  been  brought  together  out  of  the  labors 


Museum  of  Anthropology  163 

of  such  practical  archeologists  as  Dr.  Reisner,  Max  Uhle,  and 
Dr.  Alfred  Emerson,  and  is  under  the  care  of  Prof.  A.  L, 
Kroeber. 

The  main  halls  are  the  Creel(  Hall,  the  Peruvian  Hall,  the 
Revolving  Exhibit  Hall,  the  Egy^ptian  Hall,  which  is  also  the 
auditorium,  seating  about  125  people;  and  the  California 
Indian  Hall,  which  is  the  largest  of  all  and  contains  what  is 
probably  the  most  complete  collection  of  Indian  hasffetr^  in 
existence,  includmg  fish  traps,  storage  baskets,  head  dresses 
and  other  rare  and  interesting  examples  of  Indian  weaving. 

The  California  Indian  Hall  contains,  besides  the  basketry, 
some  fine  redwood  canoes,  and  the  elk-horn  wedges  with  which 
the  primitive  workmen  split  and  dug  them  out.  In  all  the 
cases  hang  small  maps  of  California  showing  the  location  of  the 
tribes  represented  by  the  different  articles.  On  the  shores 
of  San  Francisco  bay  there  have  been  over  450  shell  mounds, 
the  kitchen  middens  of  Indians  that  lived  here  3,000  years  ago. 
These  also  have  yielded  their  evidence  of  life,  manners  and 
conditions  as  they  then  existed. 

There  are  beautiful  specimens  of  ceramics  from  Greece  and 
Italy,  with  bits  of  sculpture,  bronze  ornaments  and  pieces 
of  bronze  armor  of  the  classic  age.  The  Peruvian  room  con- 
tains implements  not  found  elsewhere,  and  a  good  collection 
of  Peruvian  mummies  and  mummy  jars.  There  is  a  singing 
bird  made  of  clay. 

To  make  this  museum  the  more  complete,  there  is  connected 
with  it  a  living  example  of  an  "uncontaminated"  savage,  in  the 
person  of  Ishi,  the  Yana  Indian  from  Tehama  county.  Ishi  is 
the  last  of  a  vanished  tribe,  and  has  carried  into  the  environ- 
ment of  a  modern  city  the  arts  that  men  were  compelled  to  use 
before  civilization  touched  them.  Other  Indians  build  fires 
and  light  their  pipes  with  parlor  matches.  Ishi  uses  the  friction 
method,  and  you  can  see  him  at  it,  and  understand  how  our 
cave-dwelling  ancestors  had  to  slave  for  the  roughest  necessi- 
ties. 


]  64  Handbook  for  San   Francisco 

Probably  there  are  very  few  Indians  left  in  the  country  that 
can  make  a  neat  arrow-head  or  spear-head  from  a  piece  of 
flint.  Ishi  not  only  flakes  arrow  heads  from  obsidian,  but  even 
exercises  his  ancient  art  on  such  a  refractory  material  as  plate 
glass,  chipping  it  into  slender  blades  and  long  points  for  spear- 
ing fish.  He  has  also  built  a  dwelling  in  the  grounds  to  show 
how  it  is  done — a  wigwam  of  lodge  poles  and  leaves.  Ishi 
is  permanently  attached  to  the  museum  staff,  and  exhibits  his 
skill  for  the  edification  of  visitors. 

This  is  an  extremely  valuable  museum  in  an  educational 
way,  and  contains  a  great  mass  of  material  not  classified,  from 
the  South  Seas,  Alaska  and  other  far  places. 


CALIFORNIA  DEVELOPMENT  BOARD;  OFFICE. 
LECTURE  ROOM  AND  EXHIBITION  HALL. 

Located  in  the  Ferry  building,  foot  of  Market  street.  Open 
from  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.     Entrance  free.     Visitors  welcome. 

Take  any  car  down  Market,  Mission,  Clay  or  Union  street. 

Here  is  probably  the  finest  exhibit  of  fruits  to  be  found. 
California  is  a  great  mineral  state,  but  its  orchards  alone  pro- 
duce annually  more  wealth  than  all  its  mines,  oil  wells,  quar- 
ries and  cement  plants — over  $97,000,000.  Its  vineyards 
jielded,  in  1912,  $26,000,000  more.  In  the  same  year  it 
grew  over  $146,000,000  worth  of  general  farm  and  garden 
products,  exclusive  of  the  dairy  output.  Its  forest  products 
are  worth  about  $30,000,000  annually.  Olives  and  olive  oil 
gave  more  than  $2,360,000  in  1912.  And  for  size,  quality 
and  perfection  of  appearance  the  samples  on  display  in  the 
exhibit  of  the  Development  Board  are  unrivaled. 

The  "processing"  of  fruit  in  transparent  liquids  so  that  it  can 
be  displayed  in  all  its  ripe  perfection  originated  in  California, 
and  is  understood  by  but  a  few  experts  here.  The  result  of 
their  scientific  skill  can  be  seen  at  its  best  in  this  exhibition  hall. 
The    wealth    and    diversity    of    the    displays    are    bewildering. 


California  Development  Board  165 

Thirty-six  counties  send  their  finest  examples  of  apples,  peaches, 
prunes,  nectarines,  oranges,  olives,  pears,  apricots,  melons, 
grapes,  nuts,  corn,  potatoes,  beets,  and  similar  products — a 
wider  range,  owing  to  the  mildness  of  the  California  climate 
over  a  great  sweep  of  territory,  than  any  other  state  in  the 
Union  can  exhibit. 

The  samples  are  shown  in  large  glass  jars  or  urns,  exactly 
as  they  grow.  Even  alfalfa  plants  have  been  thus  embalmed, 
so  that  their  size  and  structure  appear  as  they  would  in  the 
field. 

The  object  near  the  entrance,  which  nobody  can  pass  without 
examination,  is  the  large  physical  relief  map  of  California.  It  is 
I  8  feet  long  and  seven  feet  wide,  and  spreads  before  you  all 
the  topographical  features  of  the  state,  with  the  whole  coast 
line  and  all  the  indentations. 

This  map  may  enable  you  to  select  your  future  home.  "The 
San  Joaquin  valley,  with  seven  million  acres,  and  the  Sacra- 
mento valley  with  four  million  acres  of  rich  agricultural  land, 
can  give  to  550,000  families  a  farm  of  twenty  acres  each, 
ample  for  their  sustenance;  to  say  nothing  of  the  Santa  Clara, 
Salinas,  Napa,  Sonoma  and  other  rich  valleys  throughout  the 
state.  The  rate  of  increase  of  California's  population  during 
the  decade  from  1 900  to  1910  was  60. 1  per  cent  larger 
than  that  of  any  state  outnumbering  her  in  population."  Yet 
she  has  a  density  of  but  15.2  persons  to  the  square  mile.  Bel- 
gium has  over  600;  Rhode  Island  has  508;  Massachusetts 
has  418;  Illinois   100. 

The  Development  Board  keeps  a  complete  file  of  Govern- 
ment agricultural  bulletins,  and  soil  and  climate  reports.  It 
has  literature  on  distribution  about  the  resources  and  oppor- 
tunities afforded  by  various  sections  of  the  state,  from  every 
county  that  publishes  any.  Its  annual  report  is  a  statistical 
survey  of  California,  which  can  be  had  for  the  asking.  In  ad- 
dition there  is  a  lecture  hall,  where  lectures  on  various  parts 
of  California,  illustrated  with  lantern  slides,  are  delivered  every 
30  minutes  from  I  to  4  o'clock  during  the  afternoon.     In  1912 


I  66  Handboof(  for  San  Francisco 

the  average  attendance  at  these  lectures  was  500  a  day.  About 
fifteen  counties  send  lecturers,  to  inform  prospective  settlers  of 
their  chances. 

The  Development  Board  has  nothing  to  sell.  The  infor- 
mation furnished  is  impartial  and  disinterested,  and  is  based  on 
actual  agricultural  surveys  by  experts  in  the  field.  Informa- 
tion on  California  will  be  mailed  by  the  Board  to  persons  in- 
terested, on  request. 


STATE  MINING  BUREAU,  LIBRARY,  AND  MIN- 
ERAL MUSEUM. 

Located  in  the  Ferry  building,  foot  of  Market  street.  Open 
from  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.     Entrance  free.     Visitors  welcome. 

Any  car  down  Market,  Mission,  Clay  or  Union  street. 

As  one  of  the  world's  great  mining  regions,  California  might 
be  expected  to  maintain  an  important  department  of  mines. 
And  it  does.  To  the  tourist,  the  intending  settler,  or  the 
experienced  mining  engineer,  there  are  few  places  in  San  Fran- 
cisco of  greater  interest  than  the  State  Mining  Bureau. 

The  museum  contams  a  most  valuable  and  beautiful  min- 
eral collection.  There  are  about  1 8,000  specimens,  and  they 
come  from  all  over  the  globe,  and  beyond ;  for  almost  the 
first  things  one  sees  on  entering  are  three  large  meteorites,  or 
"falling  stars."  In  the  vestibule  is  a  fine  exhibit  of  California 
structural  materials. 

California  has  produced  over  one  and  a  half  billion  dollars 
worth  of  gold  since  Marshall's  discovery  at  Coloma  in  1848. 
The  year  1852  holds  the  record  for  output,  with  $81 ,000,000. 
The  present  yield  is  about  $20,000,000  annually,  the  largest 
among  the  states. 

Entering  the  museum  one  sees  a  complete  working  model 
of  a  five-stamp  ore  mill,  which  runs  by  electricity.  On  the 
walls  are  pictures  of  early  scenes  in  the  "diggings,"  with  here 


State  Mining  Bureau  167 

and  there  some  such  interesting  relic  as  a  primitive  rocker  for 
washing  gold  from  the  sand  and  gravel.  There  are  pictures 
of  the  oil  fields,  and  models  of  mines. 

The  long  cases  contain  mining  and  geological  specimens  of 
quartz,  of  uncut  diamonds,  of  nuggets,  of  beautiful  agates, 
amethysts,  tourmalines,  beryl,  kunzite,  jasper,  jade,  aqua 
marmes,  opals,  sapphires — all  the  gems  one  ever  heard  of. 
There  is  a  clear  quartz  crystal  weighing  I  06  pounds. 

There  are  rare  specimens  of  leaf  and  crystalline  gold,  and 
of  silver  found  in  the  form  of  masses  of  wire,  and  in  ex- 
quisitely foliated  shapes,  like  ferns  done  in  frost.  There  are 
stalactites  tinted  with  copper  to  the  green  shade  of  falling 
water,  and  others  that  look  like  growths  of  bronze.  There  .s 
probably  no  mineral  worth  the  mention  that  is  not  represented 
here. 

Two  glass  bell  jars  cover  models  of  Australian  nuggets 
about  the  size  of  small  valises.  Of  the  25,000  visitors  that 
register  annually,  a  very  respectable  percentage  inquires  if  they 
are  solid  gold.      They  are  not. 

There  is  also  a  model  of  the  nugget  James  W.  Marshall 
found  in  the  race  of  Sutter's  mill  on  the  American  river,  the 
little  pellet  that  started  the  gold  rush. 

One  could  spend  several  delightful  hours  in  the  mineral 
museum.  In  addition,  there  is  the  mining  and  metallurgical 
library,  a  quite  exhaustive  collection  of  the  best  works  in  this 
field  of  knowledge,  and  there  is  a  well  equipped  laboratory. 
This  is  the  head  office  of  the  state's  Department  of  Mines. 


UNITED  STATES  MINT. 

At  the  westerly  corner  of  Mission  and  Fifth  streets.  Access- 
ible by  Market,  Mission  or  Fifth  street  cars.  Open  to  vis- 
itors daily,  except  on  Sundays  and  holidays,  from  9  to  I  1  :30 
a.  m.,  and  from  12:30  to  2:30  p.  m.  Regularly  appointed 
conductors  will  take  visitors  through  and  explain  the  processes 
of  melting  and  coining. 


68 


Handbook  for  San  Francisco 


UNITf:D    STATES   MINT,    FIFTH    AND   MISSION   STREETS. 

The  building  is  architecturally  handsome,  designed  in  the 
classic  style  of  the  Treasury  of  the  United  States  at  Wash- 
ington, and,  like  the  Treasury,  impressing  the  beholder  with 
a  sense  of  the  dignity  of  the  Government.  The  principal  fea- 
ture consists  of  the  six  fine  Doric  columns,  forming  a  portico, 
above  an  imposing  pyramid  of  granite  steps.  The  building 
dates  from  1873,  and  sustained  almost  no  damage  from  the 
fire  of  1 906,  or  from  the  earthquake.  The  original  Mint 
building,  erected  in  1853-4,  was  on  Commercial  street. 

More  gold  has  been  coined  at  the  San  Francisco  Mint  since 
its  establishment  in  1854  than  at  any  other  in  the  country, 
not  even  excepting  Philadelphia,  which  has  been  coining  since 
1  793.  At  this  writing  the  San  Francisco  Mmt  is  the  only 
one  in  the  country  where  gold  is  coined. 

Over  $1,340,000,000  worth  of  twenty-dollar  gold  pieces 
have  been  minted  at  San  Francisco.  Of  ten-dollar  pieces 
over  $127,000,000  have  been  produced  here;  and  $120,000,- 
000  in  five-dollar  pieces.  About  ninety  and  a  quarter  thousand 
gold  dollars  have  been  coined  at  this  mint,  but  few  are  now  to 
be  found  except  at  an  occasional  money  lender's  office  along 
Montgomery  street.  Some  three-dollar  gold  pieces  and  a  large 
number  of  quarter-eagles  were  also  made.     As  this  is  written. 


United  States  Mint  169 


the  Mint  is  coining  bronze  centavos  for  the  PhiHppines,  and  will 
undertake,  on  contract,  to  turn  out  money  for  any  Central 
American  country  or  Pacific  island  that  has  no  coinage  facili- 
ties of  its  own. 

In  the  fiscal  year  1912  this  Mint  received  over  $53,000,- 
000  worth  of  gold.  It  comes  from  all  over  the  Pacific  Coast 
and  Alaska,  some  from  the  Philippine  Islands,  and  even 
Japan  and  Australia. 

The  processes  are  interesting  to  watch,  and  visitors  are  always 
welcome. 

The  supposition  is  quite  general  that  a  miner,  or  any  owner  of 
bullion,  takes  it  to  the  mint  and  reseives  the  same  metal  back 
after  it  has  been  converted  into  coin  of  the  Republic.  He  does 
not.     What  happens  is  more  like  this: 

The  bullion  is  taken  to  the  receiving  room,  and  the  owner 
gets  back  a  receipt  for  it  by  gross  weight,  with  nothing  said 
of  its  value.  Thence  it  goes  to  the  deposit  furnaces,  where 
most  of  the  base  metal  and  dirt  is  eliminated.  Back  in  the  re- 
ceiving room  it  is  weighed,  and  then  goes  into  a  machine  that 
chips  a  little  off  each  side;  and  the  pieces  are  assayed  to  de- 
termine their  fineness.  Weight  and  assay  report  are  turned 
over  to  the  computers,  who  by  an  exhaustive  calculation  ascer- 
tain the  value.  The  checks  on  this  process  are  so  complete 
that  all  danger  of  error  is  eliminated.  A  warrant  is  drawn  for 
the  amount,  less  charges  for  assaying  and  weighing,  and  the 
depositor  receives  his  money  on  the  day  following  the  deposit. 

The  bullion  is  now  the  property  of  the  United  States.  At 
present  little  gold  is  being  coined,  and  receipts  of  it  are  likely 
to  be  melted  down  into  bricks  of  about  four  hundred  ounces, 
worth  about  $8,000  each,  and  stored  like  paving  blocks  in 
the  basement. 

If  the  metal  is  silver  it  receives  this  sort  of  treatment:  First 
the  melter  and  refiner  takes  the  crude  bullion  and  puts  it  through 
an  electrolytic  refining  process,  which  turns  it  out  .999  fine, 
and  better.  It  then  receives  an  addition  of  enough  copper  to 
make  it  900  one-thousandths  fine.      In  the  melting  room  it  is 


1  70  Handboof^  for  San  Francisco 

lun  into  ingots,  which  are  cleaned  in  a  pickle,  smoothed  on 
the  edges,  trimmed  at  the  ends,  and  sent  back  to  the  make-up 
room,  where  the  metal  is  weighed  and  assayed  once  more,  and 
delivered  to  the  coiner  as  good  and  proper  raw  material  from 
which  to  make  money.  This  ingot-casting  process  makes  a  fas- 
cinating scene,  with  the  liquid  gold  or  silver  poured,  blazing, 
into  the  iron  molds. 

The  coiner's  department  takes  the  ingots  and  by  successive 
passages  through  steel  rolls  reduces  them  to  strips  ten  to  twelve 
feet  long,  and  coin  thick.  These  shining  ribbons  then  go 
through  a  machine  that  punches  out  the  planchetts,  or  blanks. 
They  look  like  buttons  with  the  shanks  lost.  A  weigher  sits 
alongside,  snatching  samples  from  the  hopper  as  they  fall  from 
the  machine,  and  weighing  them  to  make  sure  that  the  strip 
has  been  rolled  enough,  and  that  nobody  is  going  to  get  too 
much  of  Uncle  Sam's  metal  in  his  money. 

Annealing  and  cleaning  follow,  and  a  passage  through  the 
dryer,  whence  the  blanks  go  to  the  milling  machine  and  the 
presses,  to  be  milled,  reeded  on  the  edges,  and  stamped  into 
legal  tender. 

When  gold  is  coined,  stamping  is  preceded  by  more 
weighing,  in  automatic  weighing  machines  so  delicate  they 
have  to  be  encased  in  glass,  and  so  ingenious  that  they  separate 
the  light  and  heavies,  automatically,  from  blanks  of  proper 
weight.  The  light-weights  are  rejected  and  must  go  the  round 
again,  but  the  heavies  are  clamped  in  a  lathe,  ten  or  a  dozen 
at  a  time,  and  delicately  filed  on  the  edges  as  they  turn. 

The  finished  coins  are  counted  by  means  of  boards  fitted 
with  fiddles  or  frets,  which  keep  them  in  rows  of  uniform 
number;  and  finally  they  go  to  the  great  storage  vaults  to  re- 
main until  called  into  circulation. 

The  long-continued  heavy  coinage  of  gold  at  San  Francisco 
is  intimately  connected  with  the  peculiar  financial  history  of 
California.  The  people  of  this  state  have  always  preferred 
coin  to  currency,  and  it  may  have  been  largely  due  to  their  sen- 
timental  regard   for  the  metal  their   mines  produced,   that  all 


Court  House  and  Post  Office  171 

through  the  Civil  War,  they  conducted  their  business  on  a 
specie  payment  basis.  Private  contracts  specified  it,  and  gen- 
eral convention  refused  to  recognize  the  "greenback"  and  the 
"shin-plaster,"  except  at  enormous  discount. 

Those  interested  in  numismatics  will  find  in  the  entrance 
loom  of  the  Mint  a  very  interesting  collection  of  coins,  belong- 
ing to  the  Society  of  California  Pioneers;  and  here,  also, 
is  a  large  collection  of  medals  belonging  to  the  government. 

In  the  Pioneers'  collection  of  coins  is  an  oblong  bar  of  gold, 
bearing  the  stamp  of  Frederick  D.  Kohler,  state  assayer,  and 
the  date  1850.  It  circulated  as  money,  of  the  value  of  $50. 
These  were  the  days  of  private  minting.  Coin  was  scarce  and 
it  was  the  custom  for  the  San  Francisco  merchant  to  keep  a 
pair  of  balances  on  his  counter,  to  weigh  the  gold  dust,  which 
passed  at  a  heavy  discount.  Some  more  convenient  medium 
of  exchange  was  needed,  and  the  Mint  had  not  yet  been 
established,  so  private  firms  issued  stamped  ingots,  octagonal 
in  shape,  which  circulated  at  the  face  value  of  $50.  In  the 
windows  of  some  of  the  brokers'  offices  along  Montgomery 
street  there  can  still  be  seen  specimens  of  these  fifty-dollar 
"slugs"  as  they  are  called,  some  of  them  issued  by  Augustus 
Humbert,  United  States  assayer,  and  dated    1851    and    1852. 


UNITED   STATES   COURT    HOUSE    AND    POST 
OFFICE  BUILDING. 

Situated  at  the  north  corner  of  Mission  and  Seventh  streets. 

Take  Market  street  cars  and  rvall(  half  a  blocif  southeast 
from  the  corner  of  Seventh  and  Market,  or  taffe  Mission  street 
cars  and  get  off  at  the  corner  of  Seventh. 

Probably  there  is  no  post  office  like  this  in  the  United 
States  Here  you  walk  through  marble  halls,  and  not  white 
marble  only,  but  rich,  warm  and  beautiful  Pavonezza,  Sienna 
and  Numidian,  trimmed  with  Verde  Antique  and  with  col- 
ored stone  from  Tennessee  and  Maryland.     The  style  of  treat- 


1  72  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

ment  is  Italian  Renaissance.  Overhead,  the  ribs  of  the  quad- 
rinated  vaulting  are  picked  out  in  glass  mosaic,  and  the  columns 
are  paneled  with  it. 

Some  of  the  United  States  court  rooms  are  extremely  beau- 
tiful and  impressive,  and  the  chambers  are  finished  in  a  way 
that  can  properly  be  characterized  as  sumptuous.  The  building 
cost  two  and  a  half  million. 

The  United  States  Circuit  Court  of  Appeals,  for  the  Ninth 
Circuit,  which  sits  here,  has  the  widest  range  of  jurisdiction, 
territorially,  of  any  similar  court  in  the  country.  It  hears  ap- 
pealed cases  from  the  whole  Pacific  Coast — Arizona,  Idaho, 
Montana,  California,  Oregon,  Alaska,  Hawaii,  and  even  from 
the  United  States  extra-territorial  court  in  Shanghai.  In  addi- 
tion to  the  Post  Office,  the  structure  houses  also  the  court 
rooms,  libraries  and  chambers  of  two  divisions  of  the  United 
States  District  Court  for  the  Northern  District  of  California; 
of  the  Master  in  Chancery;  and  of  many  Federal  officials. 

At  present  the  San  Francisco  Post  Office  holds  about  sev- 
enth place  in  the  United  States  in  respect  to  postal  receipts. 
Since  1888  these  have  grown  from  $665,844,  to  $2,670,179 
for  the  fiscal  year  ending  June  30,  1912;  a  gain  of  more 
than  $2,000,000  a  year,  or  over  300  per  cent  in  the  annual 
totals,  in  24  years. 


HALL  OF  JUSTICE,  CRIMINAL  COURTS,  MODEL 
CITY  PRISON,  PORTSMOUTH  SQUARE. 

San  Francisco's  Hall  of  Justice  is  the  handsome  grey  stone 
building  on  Kearny  street  between  Merchant  and  Washington. 
To  reach  it: 

Take  Kearnv  street  cars.  Lines  No.  15  or  16;  or  Mont- 
gomery and  Tenth  street  line  (no  number ).  The  Sacramento 
street  line,  traveling  east,  runs  a  block  south  of  it,  or  two  blocks 
south  of  it  rvhen  traveling  rvest. 

The  Hall  of  Justice  contains  the  city's  four  police  courts. 


Portsmouth  Square  1  73 


and  the  three  criminal  departments  of  the  Superior  Court  of 
San  Francisco  County.  (Civil  departments  are  in  the  City 
Hall.)     The  courts  open  at  10  a.  m. 

The  building  cost  over  $1,100,000,  and  is  of  the  finest 
steel  frame  construction.  From  without  it  would  never  sug- 
gest a  thought  of  the  citv  prison  on  the  top  floor,  yet  here  is 
one  of  the  model  jails,  said  by  visiting  police  officials  and  cor- 
rective experts  to  be  the  finest  thing  of  the  kind  in  the  United 
States. 

The  Hall  of  Justice  stands  on  a  historic  site  and  overlooks 
historic  ground. 

Portsmouth  Square  was  the  plaza  of  the  early  settlement, 
and  was  the  center  of  activity.  The  first  custom  house  was 
built  on  the  northwest  corner  of  the  plaza  in  1845,  with  its 
north  end  on  Washington  street,  according  to  Eldridge,  in  his 
"Beginnings  of  San  Francisco,"  and  was  used  as  a  barracks 
on  the  American  occupation.  In  front  of  the  custom  house 
was  the  flag  pole  on  which  Montgomery,  from  the  sloop-of- 
war  "Portsmouth,"  raised  the  American  flag.  The  square 
was  the  scene  of  public  gatherings,  celebrations,  parades,  mass 
meetings,  sometimes  riots,  and  all  about  it  were  the  brilliantly 
lighted,  mirror-walled  gambling  palaces,  where  the  flush  miners 
craving  excitement  sometimes  lost  the  fruits  of  a  year's  labor 
in  a  night ;  and  went  back  to  more  toil  on  the  river  bars  instead 
of  "going  home."  Here  Col.  E.  D.  Baker  pronounced  his 
celebrated  funeral  oration  at  the  bier  of  Senator  Broderick, 
before  a  concourse  of  30,000  people. 

Near  the  southeast  corner  of  Clay  and  Kearny  streets,  over- 
looking the  square,  Robert  Ridley  kept  a  billiard  hall,  and 
in  it  there  hung  the  Vioget  map  of  Yerba  Buena,  as  the  town 
was  called  at  that  time.  Grants  of  land  were  made  according 
to  this  map,  and  the  name  of  the  grantee  was  written  on  it  in 
the  appropriate  place — so  here  we  have  the  original  hall  of 
records.  The  Jenny  Lind  theater  overlooked  the  square  from 
the  east,  and  after  it  had  twice  burned  and  had  been  re- 
built in  stone,  it  was  sold  to  the  city  in   1852  for  a  city  halL 


74 


Handbook  for  San  Francisco 


The  Civic  Center  1  75 


In  1  895  the  ground  was  cleared  for  the  Hall  of  Justice  that 
was  destroyed  in  the  conflagration  of  1 906.  Before  its  de- 
struction, however,  the  Committee  of  Fifty,  appointed  by  the 
Mayor  on  April  1 8th,  met  in  the  basement  of  the  building, 
on  the  Merchant  street  side,  on  the  evening  of  that  day,  to  dis- 
cuss measures  for  the  safety  of  the  city.  It  was  the  last  public 
use  of  the  building. 


THE  CIVIC  CENTER. 

San  Francisco  has  voted  $8,800,000  of  bonds  through 
which  to  provide  lands  for  and  help  create  one  of  the  noblest 
groups  of  public  buildings  in  America.  The  total  cost,  includ- 
ing land  and  construction,  will  come  to  about  $16,800,000. 

The  site  lies  in  a  general  easterly  direction  from  Van  Ness 
avenue  between  McAllister  and  Grove  streets  to  Hyde;  and 
the  median  line  of  it,  which  is  Fulton  street,  extends  a  block 
beyond,  to  the  junction  of  Fulton  and  Market. 

The  two  blocks  between  Polk  and  Larkin,  running  from 
Grove  to  McAllister,  form  a  beautiful  plaza,  with  ornamental 
shrubbery  and  a  band  stand,  and  about  it  will  be  the  Muni- 
cipal Auditorium,  Opera  House,  Museum,  State  Building, 
Public  Library,  and  City  Hall. 

The  architects  for  the  Civic  Center  are  John  Galen  How- 
ard, Fred  Meyers  and  John  Reid,  Jr. 

Naturally  the  dominant  feature  of  such  a  group  will  be  the 
City  Hall,  plans  for  which  were  awarded  after  open  competi- 
tion to  the  local  firm  of  architects,  Bakewell  &  Brown. 

The  City  Hall  will  occupy  two  blocks  between  Grove  and 
McAllister  streets,  with  one  facade  on  the  line  of  Polk  street, 
and  another  on  Van  Ness  avenue.  The  plans  show  a  building 
covering  an  area  of  300  by  400  feet.  The  main  two  facades 
are  composed  each  of  a  central  pediment  carried  on  columns  of 
the  Doric  order,  flanked  by  smaller  Doric  colonnades.  The 
main  architectural  feature  of  the  building  is  an  immense  dome. 


76 


Handbool(  for  San  Francisco 


Panama-Pacific  Exposition  1  77 

I  1 0  feet  in  diameter,  or  1 4  feet  less  than  the  dome  of  the 
Capitol  at  Washington,  and  300  feet  high,  or  1 0  feet  higher 
than  the  capitol  dome. 

The  structure  will  cost,  complete  and  equipped,  about 
$4,000,000.  In  it  will  be  accommodated  the  various  offices 
of  the  consolidated  city  and  county  of  San  Francisco. 

At  present,  the  Ci/p  Hall  is  lemporarily  located  in  an  office 
building  on  Market  street  near  Eighth. 


THE   PANAMA-PACIFIC   INTERNATIONAL  EX- 
POSITION. 

At  the  present  writing,  the  place  of  most  absorbing  interest  in 
San  Francisco  is  the  625  acres  at  Harbor  View,  Fort  Mason 
and  the  east  end  of  the  Presidio,  that  is  being  covered  by  the 
courts  and  exhibit  palaces  of  the  Panama-Pacific  International 
Exposition.  Until  the  gates  are  opened  on  the  completed 
scheme,  the  mere  physical  construction  of  the  gigantic  "plant" 
will  be  an  exhibition  of  stupendous  human  effort. 

Visitors  will  be  admitted  within  the  fence  for  a  nominal  fee. 
To  reach  the  center  of  activity  at  the  Exposition  grounds,  near 
the  general  Service  Building: 

Tal^e  any  Sutter  street  car  and  transfer  to  Fillmore  street, 
going  north.  Or,  Presidio  &  Ferries  car  (Union  street  line) 
and  transfer  to  Fillmore. 

To  reach  foreign,  state  and  county  buildings,  in  the  Pre- 
sidio : 

Take  Presidio  &  Ferries  car  (Union  street  line)  from  the 
Ferry,  or  on  transfer  from  the  O'Farrell  street  line,  and  go  to 
terminus. 

Automobiles  can  go  out  Van  Ness  avenue  and  turn  in  at 
Lombard  street. 

Extensions  of  present  street  car  facilities  will  provide  many 
additional  ways  of  reaching  the  exposition  grounds,  but  these 
are  the  direct  approaches  at  present. 


78 


Handhool(  for  San  Francisco 


Fifty  million  dollars  is  a  conservative  estimate  of  the  amount 
that  will  be  expended  in  the  construction  of  this  greatest  of 
world's  fairs.  Over  $10,000,000  will  be  invested  in  amuse- 
ment concessions  alone. 


PLAN    OF    THE    rANAMA-PAClFIC    EXPOSITION. 


The  celebration  of  the  opening  of  the  Panama  Canal  in  this 
manner  was  first  suggested  at  a  meeting  of  the  directors  of 
the  old  Merchants'  Asociation  in  1904,  by  Mr.  R.  B.  Hale, 
then  a  director  of  the  Association  and  now  a  director  of  the 
Exposition.  On  the  28th  of  April,  1910.  over  $4,000,000 
dollars  was  subscribed  to  the  stock  of  the  Exposition  company 
in  less  than  two  hours  by  a  meeting  that  crowded  the  Mer- 
chants Exchange  to  the  walls.  The  total  subscriptions  of 
the  citizens  of  San  Francisco  will  approximate  $7,000,000. 
The  State  of  California  has  appropriated  $5,000,000,  and 
the  municipal  government  a  like  amount.  The  California 
counties  are  raising  millions  for  their  exhibits. 

The  officers  of  the  corporation  are: 

President,  Charles  C.  Moore;  vice-presidents,  William  H. 
Crocker.  R.  B.  Hale,  I.  W.  Hellman  Jr.,  M.  H.  de  Young. 
Leon  Sloss  and  Hon.  James  Rolph  Jr. ;  secretary,  Rudolph  J. 
1  aussig;  treasurer.  A.  W.  Foster;  executive  committee.  Charles 
C.  Moore.  Frank  L.  Brown,  M.  H.  de  Young.  Alfred  I. 
Esberg.  William  H.  Crocker,  Curtis  H.  Lindley.  A.  W.  Fos- 


Panama-Pacific  Exposition 


79 


ter,   R.    B.    Hale,   James   McNab,    I.   W.    Hellman   Jr.,   and 
Leon  SIoss. 

The  general  offices,  downtown,  are  in  the  Exposition  Build- 


^-"^^.T  «y 


Pin-:    WORLD'S   EXPOSITION   AT   THE    GULDEN    (JATK. 


ing,  at  2  I  6  Pine  street,  corner  of  Battery. 

In  addition  to  celebrating  the  completion  of  the  Panama 
Canal,  the  Exposition  has  for  a  concrete  ambition  nothing 
less  noble  than  the  advancement  of  civilization  by  twenty-five 
years. 

The  department  of  exploitation  issues  this  significant  "fore- 
word" : 

The  Panama-Pacific  Internationa!  Exposition  is  a  distinctly  national 
undertaking  determined  upon  by  the  Congress  of  the  United  States,  and 
designated  by  the  President  of  the  United  States  for  the  purpose  of  cel- 
ebrating the  opening  of  the  Panama  Canal — a  national  accomplishment 
that  importantly  affects  the  world. 

In  assuming  the  burden  and  expense  of  the  Exposition,  in  response 
to  the  call  of  the  President  and  the  Congress  of  the  United  States,  the 
people  of  California  are  discharging  an  important  public  duty  and  execut- 
ing a  national  trust,  the  accruing  benefits  of  which  will  be  shared  by 
every  slate   in  the  union  and  by  the  entire  citizenship  of  the  nation. 

While  this  great  inter-hemisphere  waterway  is  a  national  project,  it 
is  nevertheless  a  world's  asset,  and  the  celebration  of  its  opening  will  be 
participated  in  by  all  countries  and  peoples.  The  Exposition  will  con- 
stitute an  international  concourse  of  tremendous  significance  m  its  effect 
upon  the  natural  productivity  and  commercial  activity  of  all  countries, 
and  of  the  United  States  in  particular. 


1  80  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

MARKETS. 

San  Francisco  is  a  great  depot  for  the  collection  and  dis- 
tribution of  foods,  and  her  markets  are  a  feature  of  interest 
that  no  traveler  should  miss.  Here  can  be  seen  the  best 
of  California  fruits  in  their  perfection;  such  interesting  things 
as  the  Burbank  spineless  cactus  pear;  the  loquat;  oranges, 
lemons  and  grape  fruit  of  the  cleanest  and  most  beautiful  ap- 
pearance and  the  finest  flavor,  the  earliest  shipments  of  which 
go  east  from  Rocklin,  I  1  2  miles  northeast  of  San  Francisco. 
Tropical  fruits  from  the  islands  are  on  display. 

The  best-known  entrepot  of  foods  in  San  Francisco,  and  the 
most  modern  and  completely  equipped  in  the  world  is  the 

California  Market,  running  through  the  block  from  Pine  to 
California  street,  between  Montgomery  and  Kearny.  This  is 
a  large,  open,  airy  place,  spacious  and  clean,  where  one  can 
see  all  the  different  kinds  of  fish,  fruits,  flowers,  meats  and 
game  that  can  be  procured  in  San  Francisco  at  any  given  sea- 
son of  the  year.  The  building  is  new,  erected  since  the  fire 
of  I  906,  of  reinforced  concrete,  on  the  site  of  the  old  market 
that  was  built  here  in  1 867,  and  has  served  as  a  model  of 
sanitation  for  markets  in  several  other  coast  cities.  The  ground 
floor  is  devoted  to  retail  trade.  The  fish  booths  are  interesting, 
showing  in  season  on  their  marble  counters  the  finest  striped 
bass,  shad,  pompano,  small  fry,  Tahoe  trout,  sturgeon,  salmon, 
soles  and  sanddabs,  crabs  and  clams. 

Along  the  east  side  are  oyster  booths  long  ago  grown  into 
full  sized  restaurants,  where  the  fish  is  fresh  and  the  cookery 
skillful.  These  places  have  been  prime  favorites  with  San 
Franciscans  for  almost  two  generations.  It  was  here,  it  is 
said,  that  the  oyster  cocktail  was  invented;  the  small  tooth- 
some California  oyster  being  especially  adapted  to  this  par- 
ticular form  of  appetizer. 

It  is  below  the  ground  floor,  however,  that  the  main  activi- 
ties of  the  market  are  carried  on.  The  magnitude  of  the 
business  transacted  here  is  a  thing  of  which  San   Franciscans 


In   the  Markets  181 


themselves  know  little.  One  firm  of  tenants  conducts  a  complete 
creamery  in  the  basement,  which  turns  out  1 ,000  pounds  of 
butter  a  day.     Upstairs  the  buttermilk  can  be  had  on  draught. 

Two  tenants  of  this  market  do  80  per  cent  of  the  poultry 
business  of  the  city.  One  firm  sells  an  average  of  3,000  fowls 
daily.  About  8,000  chickens  are  kept  on  hand  continuously. 
The  transports  running  to  the  Philippines,  the  United  States 
forces  at  the  Presidio  and  Fort  Mason,  are  supplied  from  this 
institution.      Beef  and  mutton  are  handled  on  a  similar  scale. 

The  California  Market  covers  55,000  square  feet  of  ground, 
and  the  investment  in  land  and  plant  represents  three-quarters 
of  a  million  dollars.  The  refrigeration  machinery  and  cold 
storage  chambers  alone  cost  over  $60,000. 

Other  downtown  markets,  similarly  neat,  modern  and  sani- 
tary, and  also  new  since  the  fire,  are  the 

Spreckels  Market,   751    Market  street. 

Lincoln  Market,  877  Market  street. 

Long's  Market,  945  Market  street. 

Ba\^  City,  970  Market  street. 

Washington,  983   Market  street. 

Some  of  these  do  an  enormous  retail  business  and  are  well 
worth  visiting. 

Besides  these,  there  are  two  that  deserve  special  mention. 

If  you  would  see  living  and  moving  scenes  such  as  those  from 
which  the  old  Dutch  painters  wrought  their  bitumen  pictures, 
leave  your  hotel  about  4  a.  m.,  or  earlier,  and  find  your  way 
down  through  the  echoing  emptiness  of  dark  streets  to  the 
Colombo  Market,  on  Davis  street,  running  through  to  Front, 
between  Jackson  and  Pacific.  Here  come  the  Italian  truck 
gardeners  from  South  San  Francisco  and  below  Hunter's  Point, 
and  from  San  Mateo  county,  trundling  in  the  day's  garden 
truck  and  the  salad  for  a  city,  on  gigantic,  high-sided  carts 
that  loom  in  the  murk  like  Gargantuan  tumbrils  with  the  food 
for  an  army.  It  is  a  weird  scene — the  echoing  hoof-beats  in 
the  vacant  streets,  the  shadowy  lines  of  wagons  moving  between 
brick  walls   broken   here   and  there   by   a   cavernous   arch,    the 


I  82  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

booted  and  belted  teamsters  shouting  to  one  another  in  full- 
throated  Italian,  the  tons  of  dimly  descried  produce  dumped  in 
the  market  under  the  struggling  electric  lights,  the  loud-voiced 
huckstering  and  chaffering,  and  after  that  is  done  the  swarm- 
ing into  the  neighboring  restaurants  for  coffee  or  "vino"  and 
breakfast,  and  the  final  dispersal  as  the  day  grows  lighter  and 
the  uncertain  shapes  of  the  night  have  taken  normal  form;  all 
go  to  make  a  series  of  tableaux  vivants,  that  once  witnessed 
will  long  remain  as  one  of  your  most  picturesque  impressions  of 
San  Francisco. 

Returning  to  more  conventionalized  parts  of  town,  arrive 
by  7  a.  m.,  or  earlier,  at  the  San  Francisco  Wholesale  Crotvers' 
Flower  Market,  at  347  Bush  street,  just  below  the  Stock  Ex- 
change. Here  you  will  find  assembled  in  a  dim  basement, 
scores  of  gardeners  and  flower  dealers,  with  such  an  abundance 
of  floral  beauty  as  you  will  seldom  see  elsewhere ;  for  San 
Franciscans  are  a  flower  loving  people.  It  matters  not  what 
the  season  may  be,  June  or  December,  January  or  August, 
there  will  be  a  wealth  of  bloom  and  it  does  not  have  to  be 
protected  from  freezing,  even  in  the  open  air.  The  flower  ven- 
ders along  Market  street  draw  a  large  part  of  their  supplies 
from  this  point. 

The  free  fish  and  crab  market  near  Fishermen's  Wharf  has 
been  sufficiently  described  in  the  directions  for  Trolley  Trip 
No.   3,  in  this  book. 


SAN  FRANCISCO'S  YEAR-'ROUND  FLORAL  EX- 
POSITION. 

That  sparkling  bit  of  Vanity  Fair,  the  Market  street  after- 
noon parade,  passes  in  its  course  two  corners  where  masses  of 
gorgeous  bloom  are  set  like  snares  for  the  contents  of  the 
passer's  pocketbook.  Yet  the  lure  is  not  a  serious  financial 
danger.  A  small  amount  commands  a  large  gratification.  It 
would  hardly  be  correct  to  say  that  everybody  buys  flowers, 


Floral  Exposition 


183 


but  it  is  true  that  everybody  that  wants  them  can  have  them, 
for  the  prices  are  ridiculously  small.  All  the  long  summer 
through,  and  a  large  part  of  the  winter,  25  cents  will  buy  a  cor- 
sage bouquet  of  roses,  or  a  spray  of  carnations  and  maiden 
hair,  or  a  cluster  of  huge  chrysanthemums  larger  and  more  per- 
fectly developed  than  ever  grew  in  Japan. 


Till-;   (lU'l'DDiil!    FF,()I!AL   FAlli. 

In  February,  fifty  cents  will  buy  exactly  such  a  mass  of 
acacia  bloom  as  it  takes  ten  dollars  to  buy  in  New  York.  A 
great,  fragrant  bunch  of  violets  that  will  perfume  a  room  can 
be  bought  for  a  dime. 

San  Francisco  is  the  only  city  in  the  United  States  that  per- 
mits flower  vending  at  free  street  stands,  and  one  of  the  very 
few  in  which  the  climate  would  allow  these  perishable  wares  to 
be  exposed  for  sale  the  year  around.  Most  of  the  trade  is  cen- 
tered at  Market  and  Kearny  streets,  but  the  venders  are  all 
through  the  shopping  district,  and  are  patronized  by  all  classes. 


1  84  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

The  long-stemmed  and  odorous  Princess  violets  are  espe- 
cially noteworthy.  Possibly  the  little  district  of  Grasse,  in 
southern  France,  grows  violets  as  fine  as  the  San  Francisco 
variety,  but  no  other  part  of  the  world  does.  Most  of  them 
come  from  the  vicinity  of  Colma,  just  across  the  San  Francisco 
line,  in  San  Mateo  county,  where  some  four  hundred  acres 
of  them  perfume  the  air  all  through  the  long  blossoming  sea- 
son. From  San  Francisco  they  are  shipped  up  and  down  the 
coast,  from  San  Diego  to  Canada,  and  other  shipments  go 
as  far  east  as  Kansas  City  and  Chicago. 

From  March  to  June  you  will  see  the  satin-petaled,  shining 
glory  of  California  fields  and  hillsides,  the  Golden  Poppy, 
called  by  the  Spaniards  "Copa  de  Oro,"  or  Cup  of  Gold.  It 
is  a  brave  and  living  thing  of  fire,  making  in  the  valleys  pools 
of  dazzling  radiance,  and  in  places  pouring  itself  down  the 
western  slopes  of  the  coast  hills  in  glowing  carpets  that  can  be 
seen  far  out  at  sea.  Named  botanically  for  the  first  naturalist 
that  described  it,  Eschscholtzia  Californica,  has  been  formally 
and  by  statute  adopted  as  the  State  flower. 

The  regular  retail  florists,  doing  business  in  their  own  stores, 
make  bewildering  displays  of  orchids,  lilies  of  the  valley,  and 
polnsettias,  showing  a  prodigal  abundance  of  stock  that  only  a 
vigorous  and  general  demand  would  justify  carrying. 


LINCOLN  PARK  AND  FORT  MILEY. 

Lincoln  Parl(  is  a  part  of  San  Francisco  no  one  should  fall 
to  visit.  It  is  situated  on  the  heights  above  Land's  End,  and 
northeast  of  Point  Lobos  and  the  Cliff  House,  and  from  an 
elevation  of  two  hundred  feet  it  commands  a  close  view  of  all 
the  wonderful   features  of  the  harbor  entrance.      To  reach  it: 

Tal(e  Sutler  &  Clement  car.  Line  No.  2,  get  off  at  33d  ave- 
nue, and  Ti>aU(  a  block  T^^st;  or,  take  Sutler  and  California  car. 
Line  No.  /,  marked  Cliff,  to  33d  avenue. 


Lincoln  Park  and  Fort  A/j'/ep 


185 


LOOKIXO   IM'ii   TlIK   ( 


If  you  take  time  while  visiting  the  vicinity  of  the  CHff  House, 
it  is  an  easy  walk  from  there. 

Part  of  these  airy  uplands  have  been  laid  out  by  the  city 
for  public  golf  links,  where  one  can  play  six  holes  on  a  north- 
and-south  course,  or  nine  by  playing  westward  from  the  north- 
ern-most green,  toward  Land's  End.  The  links  are  open  to 
public  use  without  charge. 

Lincoln  Park  was  once  the  city  cemetery,  and  considered 
so  far  removed  from  the  city  that  it  was  given  over  largely 
to  the  burial  of  the  poor,  and  of  a  few  foreign  sailors.  Here 
the  Chinese,  also,  gave  their  dead  temporary  interment,  before 
shipping  home  the  bones  to  lie  in  the  soil  of  the  Celestial  King- 
dom. West  of  the  golf  course  are  two  curious  structures  of 
brick  and  cement,  forming  enclosures  open  to  the  sky,  with 
high  walls  at  the  west  ends.  They  look  like  stone  beds  for 
giants.  These  were  the  mortuary  chapels  where  the  Chinese 
held  their  final  funeral  rites,  offering  the  sacrifices  of  roast  pig 


186 


Handbool(  for  San  Francisco 


and  fowl,  and  burning  the  paper  images  whose  ghosts  were  to 
attend  the  dead. 

On  a  hill  toward  the  north  stands  a  monument,  "A  Land- 
mark of  the  Seaman's  Last  Earthly  Port  and  Resting  Place, 
in  which  he  Awaits  the  Advent  of  the  Great  Pilot."  It  was 
erected  by  Dr.  Henry  D.  Cogswell,  to  the  Ladies'  Seaman's 


CHINESE    MORTUAKY    CIlArKI,,    L\    LINCOLN    PARK. 

Friend  Society,  and  dedicated  to  Mrs.  Rebecca  H.  Lambert, 
the  society's  founder,  whose  grave  is  under  the  cypresses  nearby. 
From  the  turn  of  the  road  just  west  of  this  monument  is 
one  of  the  most  inspiring  views  to  be  found  anywhere,  em- 
bracing the  Golden  Gate  and  a  large  part  of  the  city.  You 
are  close  to  the  water,  and  directly  opposite  the  Marin  county 
bluffs,  which  rise  three  hundred,  four  hundred,  nine  hundred 
feet,  sheer  from  the  waters  of  the  Golden  Gate,  and  have 
been  eroded  into  rugged  canyons  and  sharply  sculptured  ridges. 
You  can  look  north  to  Drake's  Bay,  and  then,  turning  to  the 


Lincoln  Park  and  Fori  Miley  187 

right,  you  see  Point  Bonita,  the  north  headland  of  the  har- 
bor. Point  Diablo  directly  across,  Lime  Point  with  Battery 
Spencer  on  the  bluff  above,  the  mile-wide  opening  of  the  Golden 
Gate  between  Lime  Point  and  Fort  Winfield  Scott,  and 
through  the  Gate,  Raccoon  straits,  leading  into  the  northern 
part  of  the  Bay,  with  Angel  Island  to  right  of  the  channel. 
Stretching  back  from  the  little  brick  fort  are  the  scarred  bluffs 
of  the  Presidio,  against  whose  wooded  heights  are  ranged  the 
coast  defense  batteries,  though  indistinguishable  at  this  distance. 
Far  beyond  are  the  Contra  Costa  hills,  across  the  Bay.  Still 
further  to  the  right  appears  Lone  Mountain  with  its  cross, 
the  towers  of  St.  Ignatius  church,  the  heights  of  Buena  Vista 
Park,  the  Affiliated  Colleges  on  the  slope  of  Mt.  Sutro,  and 
before  the  college  buildings  the  long,  dark  lane  of  verdure  run- 
ning westward,  which  is  Golden  Gate  Park.  A  bit  beyond  the 
line  of  the  Affiliated  Colleges,  and  in  the  Park,  rises  the  Prayer 
Book  Cross,  commemorating  the  first  religious  service  ever  held 
en  the  Pacific  Coast — that  one  conducted  by  Drake's  chaplain 
in  1 5  79  on  the  shore  of  the  little  bay  that  appears  dimly  in 
the  north. 

Lincoln  Park  is  in  process  of  development,  but  when  con- 
nected with  Golden  Gate  Park  and  the  Presidio  by  good  roads 
it  will  be  one  of  the  famous  parks  of  the  world,  for  its  inspir- 
ing view   can   be   matched   nowhere. 

Fort  Mile'^.  On  the  heights  above  Point  Lobos  and  Land's 
End,  and  west  and  south  of  Lincoln  Park.  Accessible  from 
the  Cliff  House  by  walking  eastward  up  Point  Lobos  avenue 
to  Forty-third  avenue  and  then  northward  to  main  entrance  at 
Forty-third  avenue  and  Clement  street.     Or, 

Take  Suiter  &  Clement  car.  Line  No.  2,  to  43d  avenue  and 
n?alk  north. 

This  is  a  small  artillery  post,  established  in  1901,  and  is 
headquarters  for  the  Pacific  Coast  Artillery  District.  The 
views  from  the  roads  here  are  very  fine  and  command  the  coast 
for  many  miles  to  the  northward. 


Handbook  for  San  Francisco 


FORT  MASON  AND  THE  TRANSPORT  DOCKS. 

TaJ(e  Ninth  &  PoUi  streets  cross  torvn  line,  north  bound,  fcp 
transfer  from  an^  line  of  the  United  Railroads,  and  go  to  Lom- 
bard street.    Walk  three  blocks  north  and  a  block  "D^est. 

The  United  States  military  reservation  at  Black  Point,  known 
as  Fort  Mason,  is  one  of  the  many  beautiful  spots  in  San  Fran- 
cisco. The  view  from  the  bluffs  overlooking  Black  Point 
Cove,  and  from  the  entire  water  front  of  the  reservation,  pre- 
sents that  wonderful  panorama  of  bay  and  hills  and  wandering 
shore-line,  of  islands,  ships  and  broken  coast,  of  which  the 
lover  of  the  inspiring  aspects  of  nature  can  never  get  enough. 
The  Point  projects  well  into  the  bay,  and  gives  a  view  from 
the  Berkeley  hills  clear  around  to  the  Golden  Gate  and  through 
il  out  to  sea. 

Fort  Mason  is  the  site  of  the  general  supply  depot  of  the 
Quartermaster's  Department,  the  Signal  Corps  depot,  the  Medi- 
cal Supply  depot  and  the  army  transport  wharves.  The  resi- 
dences of  the  Department  Commander  and  his  staff  are  also 
here.  Here  is  the  largest  Quartermaster's  supply  depot  in 
the  country  carrying  general  stores. 

Directly  westward  are  the  Panama-Pacific  Exposition 
grounds  occupying  the  floor  of  the  amphitheater  known  as 
Harbor  View.  Just  under  the  bluff  to  the  east  is  one  of  the 
two  pumping  stations  of  the  city's  auxiliary  salt  water  fire 
protection  system,  practically  a  twin  of  the  one  at  Second  and 
1  ownsend  streets. 

The  Dolphin  Swimming  and  Boating  Club,  the  Ariel  and 
the  South  End  Boating  Clubs  are  just  below  in  Black  Point 
Cove. 

Projecting  northward  into  the  channel,  west  of  the  point, 
are  the 

United  States  Arm^  Transport  Docks,  the  only  transport 
docks  in  the  country  that  are  owned  by  the  government. 

These  three  piers  are  500  feet  long.  The  outer  ones  are 
8 1   feet  wide,  and  the  center  one  1  1  9  feet  in  width,  with  a  rein- 


Alcatraz  Island  189 


forced  concrete  shed  90  by  428  feet,  and  two  lines  of  railroad 
track. 

One  or  two  transports  are  always  lying  at  these  wharves,  and 
visitors  will  be  permitted  to  board  them  on  application  to  the 
superintendent  of  the  service,  whose  office  is  in  the  southeast 
corner  of  the  pier,  up  stairs.  The  best  time  to  visit  the  docks 
is  on  the  fifth  of  the  month,  when  the  troop  ship  departs  for 
Guam  and  the  Philippines.  The  soldiers,  five  or  six  hundred 
of  them,  are  brought  over  in  the  morning  from  the  recruiting 
camp  on  Angel  Island,  and  lined  up  along  the  dock  to  receive 
their  mess  kits  for  the  voyage.  The  embarkation,  in  military 
order,  is  one  of  the  sights  of  the  city.  Lines  are  cast  off  and  the 
vessel  leaves  the  dock  promptly  at  noon.  If  the  fifth  falls  on 
Sunday,  the  tranrport  sails  on  Monday. 

In  early  days  Black  Point  was  a  choice  residence  locality, 
and  some  of  the  dwellings  along  the  east  side  of  the  point 
which  are  now  occupied  as  quarters  for  the  officers  of  the 
division  commander's  staff  were  "mansions"  of  the  elite.  In  one 
of  them,  the  old  residence  of  Leonidas  Haskell,  Senator  Brod- 
erick  died  of  the  wound  he  received  in  the  duel  with  Judge 
Terry,  in  1  859. 


ALCATRAZ  ISLAND. 

Alcatraz  (in  Spanish,  Pelican)  island,  opposite  North 
Beach  and  Meiggs  Wharf,  and  just  within  the  Golden  Gate 
is  the  site  of  the  great  military  prison  of  the  west,  and  is  known 
throughout  the  army  as  "the  Rock." 

This  is  the  Chateau  D'lf  of  America,  a  place  from  which, 
it  is  claimed,  no  prisoner  ever  escaped.  It  is  about  20  acres 
in  extent,  and  is  safeguarded  by  the  racing  tides  of  the  Golden 
Gate  which  at  this  point  would  baffle  the  strongest  swimmer. 
With  its  light-house  tower  and  grey  prison  walls  it  has  a  most 
romantic  aspect,  from  many  points  on  the  bay.  Military  pris- 
oners are  at  present  confined  there,  and  there  are  accommoda- 


1 90  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

tions  for  about  600,  but  it  is  about  to  be  turned  over  to  the 
Department  of  Justice  and  converted  into  a  Federal  penitentiary. 
The  Hght  on  Alcatraz  is  one  of  the  most  powerful  in  the 
light-house  service.  It  is  214  feet  above  mean  high  water 
and  on  a  clear  night  can  be  seen  2  I   miles  at  sea. 


SAN  FRANCISCO  IN  BOOKS. 

San  Francisco  has  supplied  the  material  of  a  notable  liter- 
ature. Every  era  of  its  history  has  produced  its  fiction  historian, 
and  the  life  atmosphere  has  persisted  through  all  vicissitudes. 

Of  this  city  Bret  Harte  wrote  Gabriel  Conroy;  Frank 
Norris  wrote  McTeague,  Blix,  Moran  of  the  Lad^  Leitv 
and  in  part  The  Octopus;  and  that  gentle  wizard  whose  fancy- 
freighted  galleon  floats  the  long  years  through,  above  the  con- 
verging paths  of  Portsmouth  Square,  wrote  his  masterpiece. 
The  Wrecker,  with  its  smugglers,  its  plungers,  its  thrilling  auc- 
tion of  the  wreck,  on  the  floor  of  the  Merchants  Exchange;  its 
reminiscences  of  the  "What  Cheer  House"  and  of  the  Emperor 
Norton. 

On  this  local  institution,  the  Empire  of  Norton,  begotten  of 
lunacy  on  the  one  side  and,  on  the  other,  of  a  big-souled  char- 
ity that  expressed  itself  in  a  touching  sort  of  fun,  Stevenson 
has  left  us  a  passage  redolent  of  the  literary  flavor  of  the  city. 
He  says: 

Of  all  our  visitors  I  believe  I  preferred  Emperor  Norton,  the  very 
mention  of  whose  name  reminds  me  I  am  doing  scanty  justice  to  the  folks 
of  San  Francisco.  In  what  other  city  would  a  harmless  madman  who 
supposed  himself  emperor  of  the  two  Americas  have  been  so  fostered  and 
encouraged?  Where  else  would  even  the  people  of  the  streets  have 
respected  the  poor  soul's  illusion?  Where  else  would  bankers  and  mer- 
chants have  received  his  visits,  cashed  his  cheques  and  submitted  to  his 
small  assessments?  Where  else  would  he  have  been  suffered  to  attend  and 
address  the  exhibition  days  of  schools  and  colleges?  Where  else  in  God's 
green  earth  have  taken  his  pick  of  restaurants,  ransacked  the  bill  of  fare 
and   departed  scathless?      They   tell   me    he  was   even   an   exacting  patron, 

threatening    to    withdraw   his    custom    when    dissatisfied a    portly, 

rather  flabby  man,  with  the  face  of  a  gentleman,  rendered  unspeakably 
pathetic  and  absurd  by  the  great  sabre  at  his  side  and  the  peacock's 
feather  in  his  hat. 


San  Francisco  in  Books  191 

Including  such  writers  as  Ambrose  Bierce,  Bret  Harte, 
Mark  Twain,  Gertrude  Atherton,  W.  C.  Morrow,  Gelett 
Burgess  and  the  Irwins,  Wallace  and  Will,  there  is  a  long 
list  of  men  and  women  of  standing  in  their  art  who  have 
sought  to  translate  into  letters  the  peculiar  charm  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. That  the  visitor's  enjoyment  of  the  locality  may  be 
heightened  by  their  appreciation  of  it  we  give  a  list  of  some  of 
them,  and  the  work  in  which  they  have  interpreted  the  spirit 
of  the  place.  The  books  may  be  found  in  the  public  library  or 
Mechanics-Mercantile,  or  may  be  purchased  at  the  leading 
book  stores: 

By  Gertrude  Atherton:  A  Daughter  of  ihe  Vine;  Ancestors;  Rez- 
anof ;  The  Californians ;  Patience  Sparhawl( ;  American  IVives  and 
English  Husbands;    The  Splendid,   Idle  Forties. 

By  Geraldine  Bonner:  Hard  Pan;  The  Pioneer;  Tomorrow's 
Tangle ;  Rich  Men's  Children. 

Gelett  Burgess:      The  Heart  Line;  Lad^  Mechanic. 

Charles  Warren  Stoddard:     Footprints  of  the  Padres. 

Gelett  Burgess  and  Will   Irwin:      The  Picaroon. 

Esther  and  Lucia  Chamberlain:      The  Other  Side  of  the  Door. 

Arnold  Genthe  and  Will  Irwin:     Old  Chinatown. 

Sara  Dean:      Travers. 

A.  M.  Douglas:     A  Little  Girl  in  Old  San  Francisco. 

E.  E.  Green:      The  Ci7p  of  the  Colden  Gate. 

Jeremiah  Lynch:     A  Senator  of  the  Fifties. 

C.  J.  Jackson:      The  Day  of  Souls. 

Joseph  L.  King:  History  of  ihe  San  Francisco  5/oc^  and  Exchange 
Board. 

Mrs.  Fremont  Older:      The  Socialist  and  ihe  Prince. 

Helen  Throop  Purdy:  San  Francisco  As  It  Was,  As  It  Is,  and  How 
to  See  It. 

Earl  Ashley  Walcott:  Blindfolded ;  The  Apple  of  Discord;  The 
Open  Door. 

Clyde  Westover:      The  Dragon's  Daughter. 

Emma  Wolf:     A  Prodigal  in  Love;   Other  Things  Being  Equal. 

W.  C.  Morrow:      The  Ape,   ihe  Idiot,  and  Other  People. 

Chester  Bailey  Fernald:  The  Cai  and  the  Cheruh ;  The  Gentleman 
in  the  Barrel. 

Ernest  Peixotto:      Romantic   California. 

For  broad  and  colorful  sketching  of  the  city  before  the  fire, 
one  can  hardly  do  better  than  Will  Irwin's  The  City  Thai 
Was;  and  for  good,  vivacious  narrative  of  the  reconstruction 
we  commend  Rufus  Steele's  The  Cily  That  Is.     For  the  day 


1 92  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

of  the  Spanish  pioneer,  read  Zoeth  Eldredge  on  The  Beginnings 
of  San  Francisco.  John  P.  Young's  history  of  the  city  em- 
braces the  entire  subject. 

Very  readable  San  Francisco  history  runs  through  Theodore 
Hittell's  History  of  California,  and  there  is  good  descriptive 
matter  in  Hubert  Howe  Bancroft's  Some  Cities  and  San  Fran- 
cisco. 

One  of  the  leading  sources  of  local  history  is  the  Colonial 
History  of  the  Cit])  of  San  Francisco,  by  John  W.  Dwinelle, 
known  as  "Dwinelle's  Colonial  History";  a  brief  prepared  for 
the  trial  of  an  early  land  title  case.  There  is  also  a  History 
of  the  City  of  San  Francisco,  by  John  S.  Hittell. 

Other  good  books  dealing  with  early  conditions  or  special 
topics  are: 

The  March  of  Portola  and  the  Discovers  of  the  Ba\]  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, by  Zoeth  S.  Eldredge,  with  which  is  included  The  Log  of  the  San 
Carlos,   and   other  documents   translated   and   annotated  by    E.   J.    Molera. 

The  Adventures  of  a  Forty-niner,  by  Daniel  Knower. 

Men  and  Memories  of  San  Francisco  in  the  Spring  of  '50,  by  Theo- 
dore  Augustus   Barry. 

The  New  and  the  Old,  by  J.  \V.  Palmer,   M.   D. 

Lights  and  Shades  in  San  Francisco,  by   Benjamin  E.  Lloyd. 

Lights  and  Skadonts  of  Life  on   the  Pacific  Coast,  by  S.  D.  Woods. 

Seven  Years'  Street  Preaching  in  San  Francisco,  by  William  Taylor. 

California  Life,  by  the  same  author. 

San  Francisco  and   Thereabout,  by  Charles  Keeler. 

Pioneers  of  Prosperity,  by   David  H.   Walker. 

San  Francisco's  Ocean  Trade,  Past  and  Future,  by  Benjamin  C. 
Wright. 

The  Clouds  and  Fogs  of  San  Francisco,  by  Alexander  Mc.Adie. 


LIBRARIES. 

San  Francisco  has  some  notable  libraries  and  facilities  for 
historical  and  scientific  research.  It  has  the  finest  medical 
library  in  the  West,  a  Polish  library,  the  largest  French  library 
in  the  United  States,  and  just  across  the  Bay,  at  the  University 


Libraries  193 

of  California,  in  Berkeley,  an  important  reference  collection  of 
300,000  volumes,  including  the  famous  Bancroft  library  of 
original  historical  documents  and  sources  of  history  for  Cali- 
fornia and  the  Pacific  Coast. 

The  San  Francisco  Public  Library  has  its  main  collection, 
reference  and  reading  room  in  a  temporary  building  at  Hayes 
and  Franklin  streets,  but  is  to  occupy  a  monumental  public 
building  in  the  Civic  Center.  It  contains  about  1  35,000  vol- 
umes.    To  reach  its  present  location : 

Take  Hayes  street  car.  Line  No.  6. 

At  present  a  visitor  may  have  the  privilege  of  drawing  books 
by  filing  the  proper  application  for  a  card,  signed  by  a  tax 
payer  as  guarantor.  Application  blanks  may  be  obtained  at 
the  main  library  or  any  branch.  An  additional  card  may  be 
obtained  for  works  other  than  fiction,  which  enables  the  holder 
to  draw  two  books  at  a  time.  Cards  expire  two  years  from 
date  of  issue. 

The  reference  and  reading  rooms  are  open  to  the  public  from 
9  a.  m.  to  9  p.  m. ;  Sundays,  1  : 30  to  5  p.  m. 

Mechanics'  -Mercantile  Library.  At  57  Post  street,  in  the 
Mechanics'  Institute  building,  between  Montgomery  and 
Kearny  streets.  Open  from  9  a.  m.  to  1 0  p.  m.  on  week 
days ;  and  on  Sundays  and  holidays  from  II   a.  m.  to  5  p.  m. 

This  is  a  subscription  circulating  library.  A  member  may 
introduce  a  friend  not  a  resident  of  the  city,  who  will  be  allowed 
the  use  of  the  rooms  for  one  month ;  or  non-residents  may  use 
the  library  for  a  month  on  payment  of  50  cents  in  advance; 
but  members  only  can  draw  books.  The  terms  of  membership 
are:  entrance  fee,  $1.00;  quarterly  dues,  in  advance,  $1.50; 
life  membership,  $50.00. 

The  Mechanics'-Mercantile  is  next  in  point  of  popularity 
to  the  Public  library,  having  been  formed  by  the  merger  of 
two  local  institutions  that  were  rooted  in  the  life  of  the  city 
in  early  days.  Its  chess  room,  a  favorite  resort  of  many  pio- 
neers, is  headquarters  for  the  Mechanics'  Institute  Chess  and 
Checker  Club. 


194  HandbooJf  for  San  Francisco 

Booklovers  and  Tabard  Inn  Libraries.  At  20  Geary  street, 
near  Market.     Open  from  9  a.  m.  to  5:30  p.  m. 

The  Booklovers  is  a  circulating  library  of  late  fiction.  Dues, 
$5.00  a  year  or  50  cents  a  month.     About  10,000  volumes. 

The  Tabard  Inn  Library,  conducted  at  the  same  place, 
has  a  slightly  different  plan.  The  initial  fee  of  $1.50  entitles 
the  subscriber  to  the  ownership  of  the  first  book,  which  may 
thereafter  be  exchanged  on  payment  of  a   fee  of  5   cents. 

The  Paul  Elder  Library.  At  239  Grant  avenue,  in  the 
rear  of  the  book  store  of  Paul  Elder  &  Co.  Hours,  8:30 
a.  m.  to  5  :30  p.  m. 

A  library  of  late  fiction.  Books  are  rented  at  the  rate  of 
2  cents  a  day,  (day  of  issue  but  not  day  of  return)  minimum 
charge,  5  cents;  no  membership  fee.  A  membership  card  is 
isued  to  each  patron  of  the  library,  and  accepted  by  the  librarian 
as  an  identification.  No  deposit  is  required  if  a  business  refer- 
ence is  given.  About  1 ,500  copies  of  the  latest  titles.  Espe- 
cially attractive  to  visitors,  as  they  pay  only  when  they  have 
books  out. 

California  State  Mining  Bureau  Library  and  John  Hays 
Hammond  Public  Mining  Library.  In  the  offices  of  the  State 
Mining  Bureau,  Ferry  building,  foot  of  Market  street.  Refer- 
ence only.  Open  to  the  public,  free,  every  day  but  Sundays 
and  holidays,  from  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.  Closed  at  1  2  m.  Sat- 
urdays. 

Bibliotheque  Francaise.  126  Post  street,  over  the  Pig  'n' 
Whistle.  Ouverte  tous  les  Jours  Excepte  les  Dimanches  et 
Jours  Feries  de  2  h.  a.  6  h.  de  I'apres-midi,  et  de  8  h.  a.  10  h. 
du  Soir. 

Largest  collection  of  French  books  in  this  country.  Before 
the  fire  it  had  25,000  volumes,  and  now  has  nearly  12,000. 
Free  to  visitors,  and  on  the  tables  will  be  found  the  leading 
French  magazines  and  newspapers.  The  circulating  privilege 
is  obtained  on  payment  of  $1.00  entrance  fee,  and  50  cents  a 
month  thereafter.      Books  may  be  kept   1  5  days  and  renewed 


Libraries  1 95 

for  a  like  period.  The  library  dates  from  1876,  when  it  was 
founded  with  a  surplus  from  subscriptions  raised  among  the 
French  people  of  San  Francisco  for  the  assistance  of  France 
in  the  Franco-Prussian  war. 

Library  of  the  Polish  Society  of  California.  At  2091  Fif- 
teenth street.  Open  Saturdays,  from  7  to  8  p.  m.  Circulating. 
Visitors  welcome.     About  500  volumes  in  Polish  and  English. 

San  Francisco  Law  Library.  Fourth  floor  temporary  City 
Hall,  Eighth  and  Market  streets.  Open  week  days  from  9 
a.  m.  to  10:45  p.  m.,  and  Sundays  from  10:30  a.  m.  to 
4:30  p.  m. ;  closes  on  week  days  during  court  vacation  at 
6  p.  m.  A  free  circulating  and  reference  library  of  27,000 
volumes,  supported  by  municipal  appropriation,  and  fees  paid 
by  litigants  on  suits  filed  in  the  Superior  Court. 

Library  of  the  Genealogical  Society  of  California.  In  the 
Green  Room  of  the  Fairmont  Hotel,  first  floor,  at  California 
and  Mason  streets.  A  reference  library  for  members  only; 
between  three  and  four  hundred  volumes  on  biography,  gen- 
ealogy and  history.     Open  from  9  a.  m.  to  1  0  p.  m. 

Library  of  Leland  Stanford  Junior  University.  At  Palo 
Alto,  Cal. 

Southern  Pacific  train  leaving  Third  and  Torvnsend  depot, 
to  Palo  Alto,  and  trolley  car  from  the  station. 

Open  during  the  university  term  from  8  a.  m.  to  10  p.  m. ; 
during  vacations,  from  8:30  a.  m.  to  4:30  p.  m.  Closed 
Saturday  afternoons  and  Sundays.  Largely  for  reference,  but 
has  some  books  that  may  circulate.  To  those  not  connected 
with  the  university  a  fee  of  $5  a  year  is  charged.  The  library 
has  1 75,000  volumes  and  is  growing  at  the  rate  of  about 
15,000  annually.    Founded  in   1  89  1 . 

Library  of  the  University  of  California.  At  Berkeley, 
across  the  bay. 

Southern  Pacific  or  Key  Route  ferry  and  suburban  electric 
trains  connecting. 


96 


Handboolf  for  San  Francisco 


A   SAN  FRANCISCO  RESIDENCE   PARK. 


Open  during  the  term  from  8  a.  m.  to  10  p.  m.  on  week 
days;  Saturdays  from  8  a.  m.  to  12  m.,  and  from  7  to  1 0 
p.  m. ;  Sundays  from  1 0  a.  m.  to  4  p.  m.  Vacation  hours 
are  from  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.  Free  for  reference.  Circulating 
for  professors  and  students. 

This  hbrary  contains  about  300,000  volumes,  and  grows 
at  the  rate  of  15,000  a  year.  The  new  library  building  is  a 
particularly  beautiful  composition  of  white  California  granite, 
recently  completed  at  a  cost  of  about  $600,000,  from  funds 
bequeathed  by  Charles  F.  Doe  of  San  Francisco.  With  its 
equipment  the  plant  represents  an  investment  of  over  $850,000. 
The  main  reading  room  is  the  second  largest  in  the  United 
States.  Here  is  also  the  Bancroft  Librarv  of  California  and 
Pacific  Coast  History.  This  famous  collection  of  books, 
pamphlets  and  original  documents  is  housed  in  the  same  build- 
ing with  the  Library  of  the  University  of  California,  just  to 
the  left,  as  you  enter.  On  its  accumulation  the  historian  Hubert 
Howe  Bancroft  of  San  Francisco  expended  over  $400,000, 
and  it  is  likely  to  remain  for  a  long  time  the  principal  source 
of  information  for  students  of  the  history  not  only  of  California 
and  the  Pacific  Coast,  but  of  many  other  countries  bordering  on 


Libraries  197 

the  Pacific.     There  are  about  50,000  volumes,  and  it  is  open 
from  9  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m. 

Levi  Cooper  Lane  Library^  of  Medicine  and  5urger\).  Web- 
ster and  Sacramento  streets.  Open  daily  except  Sundays  from 
8:45  a.  m.  to  5:30  p.  m. 

Sacramento  street  cable  car,  either  from  the  Ferry,  or  by 
transfer  from  the  Powell  street  cable,  changing  at  Sacramento 
and  Porvell  streets. 

This  is  the  library  of  the  Department  of  Medicine  of  Leland 
Stanford  Jr.,  University.  It  is  the  largest  medical  library  west 
of  Chicago,  and  the  largest  university  medical  library  in  the 
United  States,  containing  40,000  volumes  at  present.  The 
building  is  a  five-story  structure,  dedicated  in  November,  1912 
with  the  most  improved  equipment,  and  capacity  for  1  20,000 
books.  In  the  reading  room  are  some  very  beautiful  mural 
paintings  by  Arthur  Matthews.  The  fees  are  $5  a  year  for 
reference  use,  and  $  1 0  for  the  circulating  privilege,  with  life 
membership  at  $  I  00. 

The  library  was  founded  and  the  building  erected  with 
funds  provided  by  Dr.  Levi  Cooper  Lane  and  Pauline  C. 
Lane,  his  wife. 

Photographic  Library.  See  California  Camera  Club,  under 
"Clubs  and  Organizations." 

Library  of  the  Commomvealth  Club.  At  153  Kearny  street. 
A  good  and  growing  collection  of  publications  on  political, 
economic  and  sociological  questions.  Club  rooms  open  from  9  a. 
m.  to  5  p.  m.,  week  days,  except  Saturdays,  when  they  close 
at  3  p.   m. 

Library  of  the  Bar  Association.  Pacific  Building,  Market 
and  Fourth  streets. 


198  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

BOOK  STORES,  NEW  AND  OLD. 

Of  good  places  to  buy  books  in  San  Francisco  these  should 
be  mentioned: 

The  shop  of  Alexander  M.  Robertson,  publisher  of  many 
works  by  California  writers;  at  222  Stockton  street,  corner  of 
Union  Square  avenue,  and  facing  Union  Square. 

Paul  Elder's,  at  239  Grant  avenue,  near  Sutter.  Elder 
is  active  as  a  publisher. 

John  Howell's,  at  107  Grant  avenue,  near  Geary.  Howell 
is  an  importer  of  fine  books  and  rare  old  ones. 

H.  S.  Crocker  &  Co.,  565  Market.  A  large  store  with  a 
large  stock. 

John  J.  Newbegin's,  at  31  1-315  Sutter.  Newbegin  is  also 
an  importer. 

Western  Methodist  Book  Concern;  5-7  City  Hall  avenue. 

Westminster  Book  Store ;  400  Sutter  street,  corner  of  Stock- 
ton. 

The  White  House,  department  store,  at  Sutter  street  and 
Grant  avenue,  has  a  very  large  book  department  and  its  stock 
of  foreign  books  is  said  to  be  the  best  in  the  United  States. 

Good  book  departments  are  also  to  be  found  in  the  Em- 
porium, on  the  south  side  of  Market  street  between  Fourth 
and  Fifth,  and  at  Hale  Bros',  at  the  corner  of  Market  and 
Fifth  streets. 

The  city  lost  a  wealth  of  old  libraries  in  the  fire,  but  still 
a  few  find  their  way  into  the  hands  of  the  second  hand  book 
dealers,  whose  stocks  have  recently  begun  to  exhibit  their  former 
variety.  Californiana  is  growing  scarce,  but  occasionally  a 
good  bit  rewards  a  prowl  among  the  old-book  stores.  Some 
of  the  best-known  of  the  second-hand  shops  and  dealers  are: 

The  Holmes  Company,  70  Third  street,  south  of  Market, 
with  another  store  at  221   Market. 

Wellendorf  Book  Company,  1035  Market,  near  Sixth.  Old 
and  new  books. 


The  Press  199 

King's  Book  Store,  1716  Market,  near  Gough. 

King  Bros.,  new  and  second-hand  1182  Market,  be- 
tween Jones  and  Marshall  Square. 

J.  H.  Cain,  679  McAllister,  near  Gough. 

McDevitt's  Book  Omnorium,  1004  Fillmore,  near  McAl- 
lister. 

C.  H.  Ryder,  Philadelphia  Book  Company,  1279  Golden 
Gate  avenue,  near  Fillmore. 

San  Francisco  Occult  Book  Company,  new  and  second-hand, 
1141    Polk,  near  Sutter. 

French  books  can  be  found  at  the  shop  of  Victor  Martin 
and  Charles  Poulin,  664  Broadway,  between  Grant  avenue 
and  Stockton  street,  opposite  the  Liberty  Theater,  and  at  the 
shop  kept  by  A.  Pradels,   1111   Polk  street,  near  Post. 

German  books  can  be  found  at  Richard  Rieger's,  86  Fourth 
street,  and  1320  Fillmore;  and  at  Gustav  Schenk's,  2007 
Fillmore,  near  Pine. 

Italian  books  are  sold  at  the  shop  of  A.  Cavalli  &  Co.,  263 
Columbus  avenue,  above  Kearny,  and  by  Unti  &  Perasso,  at 
343  Columbus  avenue,  near  Grant  avenue. 

Spanish  books  are  kept  by  Jose  Sanchez,  at  639  Vallejo 
street,  near  Grant  avenue. 


THE  PRESS. 

San  Francisco  has  had,  since  its  earliest  history,  a  distin- 
guished press.  Its  tone  has  been  metropolitan  from  the  begin- 
ning, but  it  has  also  been  something  more.  Vitalizing  con- 
tacts with  new  conditions,  and  freedom  from  conventional  re- 
straints, operated  to  produced  journalists  of  originality,  who 
acquired  national  and  international  reputation. 

This  was  the  starting  point  of  such  writers  and  newspaper 
workers  as  Ambrose  Bierce,  Frank  Bailey  Millard,  Arthur 
McEwen,  W.  C.  Morrow,  Charles  Michaelson,  Miriam  Mich- 
aelson,  Charles  Dryden,  Philip  A.  Roche,  Ned  Townsend  of 


200  Handbook  for  San   Francisco 

Chimmie  Fadden  fame,  James  Hopper,  Rufus  Steele,  Daven- 
port and  Edgren,  the  cartoonists,  Earl  Ashley  Walcott,  the 
novelist,  J.  O'Hara  Cosgrave,  who  was  editor  of  the  San 
Francisco  "Wave"  when  Frank  Norris  made  it  the  laboratory 
of  his  early  efforts,  William  Melony,  "Bob"  Davis,  Henry  C. 
Rawley,  Alice  Rix,  Annie  Laurie,  Helen  Dare,  Kathleen 
Norris,  Adele  Brooks;  Swinnerton,  "Tad,"  Maynard  Dixon 
and  Grant  Wallace,  the  illustrators;  Lincoln  Steffens  and  Sam- 
uel E.  Moffett,  the  publicists,  Chester  Bailey  Fernald,  Will  and 
Wallace  Irwin,  Harrison  Fisher,  the  illustrator,  and  "Bud" 
Fisher,  creator  of  "Mutt  and  Jeff."  There  were  many  more; 
humorists,  essayists  on  the  pressing  and  vital  topics  of  the  day, 
from  Bret  Harte  and  Mark  Twain  to  Edward  F.  Cahill,  "Our 
Candid  Friend." 

Today,  this  city  is  an  important  publishing  center,  with 
ever  I  50  daily,  weekly  and  monthly  publications,  representing 
practically  all  leading  languages ;  Greek,  Hebrew,  Italian,  Chi- 
nese, French,  German,  Russian,  Polish.  We  can  not  list  them 
all,  but  the  leading  English  publications  are  the 

San  Francisco  Call;  afternoon,  now  published  from  the 
Claus  Spreckels  building  at  Third  and  Market  streets.  This  was 
recently  changed  to  an  afternoon  paper.  Until  the  change  was 
made  it  was  the  oldest  San  Francisco  morning  paper.  Mark 
Twain  was  one  of  its  reporters  during  his  San  Francisco  days. 

San  Francisco  Chronicle;  morning,  published  at  Market  and 
Kearny  streets.  Founded  by  Charles  and  M.  H.  de  Young. 
Some  famous  writers  have  served  it.  Will  Irwin  was  its  Sun- 
day editor  for  a  time,  and  so  was  Rufus  Steele,  now  holding 
the  same  position  on  the  Call.  John  P.  Young,  the  well-known 
publicist,  is  its  managing  editor,  and  the  noted  literary  critic, 
George  Hamlin  Fitch,  contributes  its  widely  read  book  reviews. 

San  Francisco  Examiner;  morning,  published  at  Market, 
Kearny  and  Third  streets.  This  was  the  first  Hearst  paper  in 
ihe  United  States.  Ambrose  Bierce  contributed  his  famous 
column  of  "Prattle"  to  its  Sunday  numbers  for  several  years, 
Samuel  E.  Moffett  was  one  of  its  editorial  writers,  and  T.  T. 


The  Press  20! 

Williams  one  of  its  leading  spirits.  Arthur  McEwen  and  W. 
C.  Morrow,  the  author,  were  part  of  its  staff,  as  well  as  Frank 
Bailey  Millard,  Earl  Ashley  Walcott,  and  Wallace  Irwin. 

Bulletin;  afternoon,  published  at  767  Market  street.  This 
is  the  oldest  existing  San  Francisco  newspaper,  having  been 
founded  in  1855  by  James  King  of  William,  whose  murder 
the  following  year  led  to  the  uprising  of  the  Vigilantes  and 
made  much  early  history. 

San  Francisco  Evening  Post;  afternoon,  published  at  727 
Market  street.  The  single  tax  movement  in  America  origin- 
ated with  its  founder,  Henry  George,  author  of  "Progress  and 
Poverty,"  who  established  the  paper  in   1879. 

News;  afternoon,  published  at  340  Ninth  street.  A  penny 
paper  of  the  Scripps-McRae  group. 

Commercial  Neips,  morning,  published  at  330  Sansome 
street.     Shipping  and  marine  intelligence  and  financial  news. 

Journal  of  Commerce,  afternoon,  published  at  1 65  Jessie 
street,  corner  of  Annie.  Commercial,  financial,  shipping,  mu- 
nicipal and  general  news. 

Municipal  Record,  published  every  Thursday  by  the  Board 
of  Supervisors  at  the  City  Hall,  1231  Market  street,  for  the 
purpose  of  furnishing  information  concerning  public  municipal 
improvements  and  the  work  of  the  several  municipal  depart- 
ments. 

News  Bureau,  issued  during  the  noon  hour  from  88  First 
street,  containing  brief  presentations  of  important  news,  espe- 
cially financial,  for  business  men  at  their  desks. 

Recorder,  morning,  published  at  28  Montgomery  street. 
Contains  the  court  calendars,  important  Supreme  court  deci- 
sions, and  other  information  of  value  to  attorneys,  together  with 
a  page  of  general  news  and  a  column  of  editorial. 

Argonaut,  weekly,  published  at  207  Powell  street;  editorial 
comment,  short  stories,  selected  verse  and  European  corre- 
spondence. Founded  in  1877  by  Fred  M.  Somers  and  Frank 
Pixley.  The  Argonaut  is  the  leading  literary  weekly  of  the 
West,  and  one  of  the  foremost  in  the  country.     It  circulates  in 


202  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

every  civilized  land.  Almost  every  San  Francisco  writer  that 
has  risen  to  distinction  since  its  founding  has  sought  the  public 
through  its  columns,  and  we  find  among  them  such  names  as 
Gertrude  Atherton,  Frank  Norris,  W.  C.  Morrow,  Harry 
Dam,  E.  W.  Townsend,  Jerome  A.  Hart,  Ambrose  Bierce, 
Frank  Bailey  Millard  and  John  Fleming  Wilson. 

IVasp,  weekly,  121  Second  street;  politics,  society,  finance, 
art  and  theatrical  reviews.  This  was  the  first  paper  in  the 
United  States  to  run  colored  cartoons. 

Nervs  Letter,  weekly,  2 1  Sutter  street.  Oldest  existing 
weekly  in  San  Francisco.  Founded  in  1856.  Political  com- 
ment, financial,  society  and  theatrical  news. 

Town  Talk,  weekly,  88  First  street.  Current  comment  on 
the  amusements  and  social  doings  of  the  city,  with  interesting 
sketches  of  prominent  persons. 

Among  magazines  there  are  the 

Overland  Monthly,  21  Sutter  street;  founded  by  Bret  Harte 
and  built  up  by  the  work  of  many  distinguished  contributors. 
The  Overland  first  published  "The  Luck  of  Roaring  Camp" 
and  "The  Heathen  Chinee."  Joaquin  Miller  wrote  for  it,  and 
in  its  pages  first  appeared  parts  of  Mark  Twain's  "Innocents 
Abroad." 

Sunset  Magazine;  monthly,  published  at  448  Fourth  street. 
Devoted  to  the  literary  exploitation  of  the  beauties  and  resources 
of  California  and  the  West.  Visitors  will  find  in  its  pages 
most  attractive  descriptive  matter  on  California,  accompanied 
by  fine  colored  illustrations.  Sunset  has  had  a  remarkable 
career.  Beginning  as  a  "house  organ"  of  the  Southern  Pacific 
Railroad  Company  it  was  developed  by  judicious  management, 
under  the  editorship  of  the  late  Charles  S.  Aiken,  into  a  maga- 
zine of  the  best  type,  appealing  to  a  wide  and  general  interest. 
It  is  doubtful  if  there  is  another  publication  in  the  West  that 
has  done  so  much  to  make  the  West  known  to  the  world. 

In  addition  there  is  a  number  of  religious  journals,  such  as 
the  Pacific  Unitarian,  the  Pacific  Presbyterian,  the  Monitor 
and  the  Leader  (Catholic),  the  Hebrew,  and  Emanu  EI  (Jew- 


Banks  and  Finance  203 


ish),  the  Pacific  (Congregational),  the  Pacific  Churchman 
(Episcopahan),  the  Pacific  Christian  (Christian  church),  and 
the  Pacific  Methodist  Advocate,  and  fraternal  and  trade  publi- 
cations too  numerous  to  mention  here. 


BANKS  AND  FINANCE. 

Both  the  cosmopolitan  character  and  the  financial  strength 
of  San  Francisco  appear  in  its  banks.  Here  are  British, 
French,  Italian,  Portuguese,  German,  Chinese  and  Japanese 
financial  institutions.  There  were  in  this  city  at  the  beginning 
1913,  37  banks  with  9  branches,  showing  a  total  capital, 
surplus  and  undivided  profits  of  $80,727,948.  The  savings 
deposits  of  Dec.  31st,  1912,  amounted  to  $189,714,076,  the 
largest  on  record,  and  the  depositors  numbered  over  half  the 
population.  On  Feb.  10th,  1913,  the  deposits  had  grown 
to  $202,295,143. 

The  aggregate  resources  of  three  of  the  national  banks  of 
San  Francisco  are  larger  than  the  aggregate  resources  of  all 
the  national  banks  in  any  one  of  30  states.  In  population, 
San  Francisco  stands  eleventh,  according  to  the  census  of 
1910,  but  in  aggregate  resources  of  all  her  national  banks,  she 
ranks  sixth  among  the  cities  of  the  country,  being  exceeded  in 
this  respect  only  by  New  York,  Chicago,  Boston,  Philadelphia 
and  Pittsburg.  At  this  writing  clearings  run  over  $50,000,000 
a  week,  and  for  1912  almost  equalled  the  combined  clearings 
of  the  next  largest  six  cities  of  the  Pacific  Coast.  Comparative 
clearings  of  these  cities  for  1912  were  as  follows: 

San  Diego   $    131,265.154 

Oakland    192,711,075 

Tacoma     218,941,896 

Portland    596,327,185 

Seattle    602,430,660 

Los    Angeles    1,167,782,516 

Total    $2,909,438,486 

San  Francisco   $2,677,561,952 


204  Handbook  for  San   Francisco 

Clearings  for  1913  thus  far  show  San  Francisco  to  be  the 
most  important  banking  center  west  of  Kansas  City,  and  eighth 
among  the  cities  of  the  country. 

The  underwriting  power  of  San  Francisco  has  grown  tre- 
mendously in  the  past  few  years  as  one  success  after  another 
has  demonstrated  the  profitable  nature  of  California  develop- 
ment enterprises  when  properly  conceived  and  executed.  In 
1912  this  city  stood  third  in  the  United  States  in  the  transac- 
tions of  its  bond  market,  being  exceeded  in  this  respect  only 
by  New  York  and  Baltimore. 

The  San  Francisco  Chapter  of  the  American  Institute  of 
Banffing  (section  of  the  American  Bankers'  Association)  is  in 
the  eleventh  year  of  its  existence  and  has  its  office  and  library 
at  1  325  First  National  Bank  Building,  Post  and  Montgomery 
streets. 

Consonant  with  their  financial  strength  and  the  opportunities 
presented  by  the  destruction  of  their  old  buildings,  the  down- 
town banks  of  San  Francisco  are  palatially  and  beautifully 
housed.  Every  visitor  should  make  the  round  of  the  banks, 
or  at  least  look  in  upon  them  when  passing,  for  they  constitute 
one  of  the  most  artistic  features  of  the  rebuilt  city. 

Foremost  historically,  in  the  financial  section  of  the  city,  is 
the  Banl(  of  California,  National  Association,  at  California 
and  Sansome  streets. 

This  institution  was  founded  in  1  864  by  William  C.  Ral- 
ston and  D.  O.  Mills,  and  for  many  years  was  the  most  active 
factor  in  the  financing  of  ore  milling  and  other  operations 
along  the  famous  Comstock  lode,  in  Nevada. 

The  bank  dominated  the  financial  situation  in  the  city  during 
the  Comstock  mining  days  of  the  "sixties"  and  "seventies," 
and  is  today  the  leading  financial  institution  of  the  West.  In 
1912  its  total  assets  were  nearly  sixty  millions.  The  building 
is  imposing  and  beautiful.  Notice  its  enormous  columns  and 
the  color  harmonies  of  its  interior. 

The  Wells  Fargo  Nevada  National  Ban}(,  at  the  northeast 
corner  of  Market  and  Montgomery  streets,  is  another  historic 


Banks  and  Finance  205 


institution  of  the  city,  one  of  its  elements,  the  Nevada  Bank, 
having  been  founded  during  the  bonanza  days  of  the  great 
Comstock  operators.  Flood  &  O'Brien,  and  Mackay  &  Fair. 
It  long  occupied  the  famous  old  Nevada  block  on  Montgomery 
street  at  the  corner  of  Pine,  destroyed  by  the  fire  of  1  906. 

First  National  Bank  of  San  Francisco,  Montgomery  and 
Post  streets.  The  oldest  national  bank  in  California.  Its 
beautiful  building  stands  on  the  site  of  the  old  Masonic  Tem- 
ple. 

Crocker  National  Bank  of  San  Francisco,  Post  and  Market 
streets.  The  building  is  particularly  fine.  It  survived  the 
fire,  structurally  unharmed,  but  the  interior  was  burned  out 
and  had  to  be  renewed. 

Merchants  National  Bank,  at  the  corner  of  Market  and 
New  Montgomery  streets.  Formerly  the  Western  Metropolis 
National  Bank. 

The  Mutual  Savings  Bank  is  at  706  Market  street,  just 
above  Kearny. 

The  Union  Trust  Company  of  San  Francisco  formerly  occu- 
pied the  location  of  the  Wells  Fargo  Nevada  National  Bank, 
and  erected  its  present  building  at  Grant  avenue  and  Market 
streets  after  the  fire.  This  is  one  of  the  chief  ornaments  of 
Market  street. 

Savings  Union  Bank  and  Trust  Company,  Grant  avenue 
and  O'Farrell  streets.  The  pediment  was  designed  by  Haig 
Patigan.  Notice  the  bronze  doors,  designed  by  Arthur 
Matthews,  their  panels  representing  the  Indian,  the  Spaniard, 
the  American  and  the  spirit  of  the  new  San  Francisco.  The 
reception  room  of  the  safe  deposit  department  is  decorated  with 
a  mural  painting  of  St.  Francis,  also  by  Matthews. 

The  Humboldt  Savings  Bank  occupies  its  own  building,  an 
1 8-story  structure,  which  was  in  course  of  erection  at  the 
time  of  the  fire  and  was  completed  immediately  afterward,  at 
783  Market  street. 

Farther  up  Market  street,  at  its  junction  with  McAllister 
and  Jones,  is  the 


206 


Handbook  for  San  Francisco 


Hibernla  Savings  and  Loan  Society.  This  is  one  of  the 
city's  oldest  and  most  substantial  organizations  engaged  in  the  1 
savings  bank  business.  The  conspicuous  feature  of  the  exterior  \i 
is  the  dome  surmounting  the  McAllister  and  Jones  street  corner, 
which  is  of  handsome  design  and  is  covered  with  gold  leaf. 
The  classic  composition  of  its  single  story  is  most  beautiful  and 
effective. 


1\  I  KUiiil;    iij'     A    SW    J'KAM  ISru    KANK 


The  German  Savings  and  Loan  Society,  at  526  California  *] 

street  between   Montgomery   and  Kearny,   is  one  of  the  city's  j 

important  savmgs  mstitutions  and  its  interior  decoration  scheme,  -i 

in  dim  gold  and  old  ivory  tones,  is  very  attractive.  I 

The  Anglo  and  London  Paris  National  Banff,  at  the  corner  *; 
of  Sansome   and   Sutter   streets,    is   one   of   the   city's   gems   of 

architecture,  a  remarkably  harmonious  and  beautiful  composi-  ., 

tion,  both  in  proportions  and  embellishment.  | 


Banks  and  Finance  207 


The  Bank  of  Daniel  Meyer,  at  224  Pine  street,  is  an  old 
institution  that  has  had  much  to  do  with  State  development. 

The  International  Banking  Corporation,  in  the  Mills  build- 
ing, corner  of  Bush  and  Montgomery  streets,  is  the  San  Fran- 
cisco branch  of  the  main  organization,  through  which  it  has 
many  Oriental  connections. 

The  Italian  banks,  in  the  vicinity  of  Montgomery  street  and 
Columbus  avenue,  are  among  the  finest  in  the  city.     These  are: 

Bank  o/  //a/p,  at  Montgomery  and  Clay  streets.  The  build- 
ing is  a  stately  structure  strictly  Italian  in  feeling,  with  an 
interior  finished  in  Sienna  marble.  This  bank  has  a  branch  at 
Mason  and  Market  streets,  in  the  heart  of  the  business  district. 

The  Italian  American  Bank  ^s  at  Montgomery  and  Sacra- 
mento streets.  This  is  a  fine  building  in  Italian  renaissance 
style.  The  two  granite  columns  in  front  are  the  largest  and 
tallest  monolithic  columns  in  San  Francisco.  This  is  the  only 
representative  on  the  coast  of  the  Banco  di  Napoli. 

Fugazi  Banca  Popolare  Operaia  Italiana.  Gore  of  Mont- 
gomery street  and  Columbus  avenue.  The  building  is  very 
handsome,  the  interior  finish  being  of  Grecian  marble. 

The  Mercantile  Trust  Compan])  of  San  Francisco  and  Mer- 
cantile National  Bank  of  San  Francisco  occupy  a  beautiful 
building  opposite  the  Merchants'  Exchange,  at  464  California 
street,  near  Montgomery. 

The  French  Bank  of  Savings,  at  I  08  Sutter  street,  does  a 
commercial  business  also.  It  is  the  largest  French  savings  bank 
outside  of  France. 

The  Canadian  Bank  of  Commerce  is  at  California  and 
Leidesdorff  streets.  This  is  a  branch  of  the  Canadian  Bank  of 
Commerce  of  Toronto. 

Bank  of  British  North  America,  Battery  and  California 
streets.  The  American  head  office  of  this  bank  is  at  Montreal, 
and  the  court  of  directors  is  at  London. 

The  Mission  Bank  is  at  Sixteenth  street  and  Julian  avenue, 
between  Mission  and  Valencia  streets. 


208  Handbook   for  San  Francisco 

The  Canton  Bank,  ^  Chinese  institution,  is  at  653  Kearny 
street. 

The  Yokohama  Specie  Bank  is  situated  at  the  corner  of 
Sansome  and  Commercial  streets. 

Other  banks  and  trust  companies  of  San  Francisco  are  the 

American  National  Bank  of  San  Francisco,  Merchants' 
Exchange  building,  California  and  Leidesdorff  streets. 

California  Savings  and  Loan  Society,  801  Van  Ness  avenue. 

Columbus  Savings  and  Loan  Society,  700  Montgomery 
street. 

Pacific  States  Savings  and  Loan  Society,  550  California 
street. 

Portuguese-American  Bank  of  San  Francisco,  Front  and 
Commercial  streets. 

Seaboard  National  Bank,  Market  and  Steuart  streets. 

Security  Savings  Bank,  3  1  6  Montgomery. 

Anglo  California  Trust  Company,  Market  and  Sansome. 

Donohoe,  Kelly  Bankmg  Company,  Montgomery  and  Sutter. 

First  Federal  Trust  Company,  Post  and  Montgomery. 

Hong  Kong  and  Shanghai  Banking  Corporation,  401  Mont- 
gomery. 

Marine  Trust  and  Savings  Bank,   ^  00  Market. 

Swiss-American  Bank,  12  Sansome  street. 


SOME  FRATERNAL  AND  ASSOCIATION 
BUILDINGS. 

In  the  rebuilding  of  San  Francisco  it  became  a  matter  of 
local  pride  with  associations  and  fraternal  orders  to  replace 
their  old  homes  in  the  manner  most  creditable  to  the  city. 
Among  directors  and  boards  of  trustees  there  reigned  the  spirit 
of  civic  renaissance,  a  spirit  that  was  one  with  the  past,  but 
unhampered  by  it,  and  that  was  determined  on  taking  every 
advantage  of  this  exceptional  opportunity  lo  create  anew.  As 
a  result,  the  city  is  graced  with  some  of  the  finest  semi-public 


Some  Fraternal  Buildings  209 

buildings  to  be  found,  structures  embodying  original  design, 
and  new  ideas  in  adornment  as  well  as  in  facilities  for  serving 
their  various  objects.  One  of  the  few  buildings  in  America 
comparable  to  some  of  the  good  buildings  in  Europe  is  the 
Masonic  Temple  at  Oak  street  and  Van  Ness  avenue. 

From  the  corner  of  its  broad,  white  walls  a  canopied  King 
Solomon  looks  down  upon  the  modern  city  traffic.  It  is  by 
Adolph  Alexander  Weinman,  the  New  York  sculptor.  The 
canopy  itself  is  adorned  with  sculptured  angels,  and  with 
enshrined  allegorical  figures,  of  which  the  man  with  the  capital 
represents  the  Builder ;  the  one  with  the  book.  Social  Order ; 
the  one  with  the  lyre.  Reverence  for  the  Beauty  of  the  World; 
the  one  with  his  hands  on  his  breast,  Reverence  for  the  Mys- 
tery of  the  Heavens.  These  are  by  Ralph  Stadpole  of  San 
Francisco.     There  are  six  figures,  but  two  are  duplicates. 

The  dominating  feature  of  the  exterior  is  the  machicolated 
parapet,  carried  around  the  top  instead  of  a  cornice.  It  is  in 
the  style  of  the  one  on  the  tower  of  the  Palazzo  Vecchio  of 
Florence,  and  other  structures  of  that  period,  and  has  a  medie- 
val militant  suggestion,  as  of  the  piety  and  valor  of  the  Temple 
Knights  whose  gilded  shields  hang  on  the  face  of  it. 

The  entrance  is  through  a  noble  portal,  under  a  semi-circular 
hood  supported  on  corbels  formed  by  the  stone  figures  of  lions. 
Under  the  ornate  receding  arches  the  tympanum  shows  an 
allegory  in  relief,  also  by  Weinman,  consisting  of  three  figures 
of  Charity,  Fortitude  and  Truth.  Beneath,  the  lintel  bears  a 
row  of  nine  smaller  figures,  by  Stadpole,  representing  David, 
Abraham,  St.  John  the  Divine,  Nathan  the  prophet,  Moses, 
Aaron,  St.  John  the   Baptist,  Joseph,   and  Jonathan. 

The  principal  feature  of  the  interior  is  the  great  Commandery 
Hall,  60  feet  wide,  72  feet  long,  and  rising  from  the  level  of 
the  third  story  85  feet  to  the  summit  of  the  dome  that  one  can 
see  from  almost  every  hill-tcp  in  the  city.  The  wall  spaces 
are  decorated  with  mural  paintings  by  Arthur  Matthews. 


2  1  0  Handbook   for  San  Francisco 

The  architects  of  the  Masonic  Temple  were  BHss  &  Faville. 

Among  other  fine  buildings  of  this  semi-public  character  are 
Scottish  Rite  Temple,  Van  Ness  avenue  and  Sutter  street;  Odd 
Fellows  Hall,  Seventh  and  Market;  Knights  of  Columbus  Hall, 
150  Golden  Gate  avenue;  building  of  the  Native  Sons  of  the 
Golden  West,  430  Mason  street;  German  House,  Polk  and 
Turk  streets;  Elks  Hall,  540  Powell  street. 

The  Young  Mens  Christian  Association  has  one  of  the  finest 
buildings  of  its  kind  in  the  world,  at  Golden  Gate  avenue  and 
Leavenworth  streets.  Here  is  a  large  gymnasium  with  a  salt 
water  swimming  tank,  and  there  are  bowling  alleys,  handball 
courts,  a  billiard  room  and  facilities  for  all  sorts  of  social  gath- 
erings and  receptions. 

The  Young  Women  s  Christian  Association  has  its  home  at 
1249  to  1259  O'Farrell  street,  where  it  maintains  a  boarding 
home  for  young  business  women,  and  an  employment  bureau. 
To  reach  it 

Take  an^  Market  street  car  from  the  Ferry  to  Fourth  and 
Ellis  streets,  transfer  to  Line  No.  20  or  21 ,  get  off  at  Gough 
and  O'Farrell  and  Walk  half  a  block  Ti'est.  From  Third  and 
ToTvnsend  depot  take  Ellis  and  Ocean  car.  Line  No.  20,  to 
Gough  and  walk  half  a  block  west. 

Travelers'  Aid  secretaries  of  the  Y.  W.  C.  A.  meet  steam- 
ers and  trains. 

The  Young  Mens  Institute  has  its  home  at  92  Sanchez 
street. 

The  Independent  Order  B'nai  D'rith,  rebuilt  on  its  old  site 
after  the  fire,  at  149  Eddy  street,  between  Mason  atid  Taylor, 
a  fine  building  that  is  an  ornament  to  the  neighborhood. 


EDUCATIONAL  FACILITIES. 

Early  San  Franciscans  that  wished  to  put  their  sons  in  col- 
lege used  to  send  them  to  Honolulu,  but  California  has  probably 
advanced  more  rapidly  in  the  field  of  education  than  any  other 


Educational  Facilities  211 


phase  of  development,  and  ranks  today  in  this  respect  with 
the  most  progressive  eastern  states.  The  disbursement  of  State 
revenue  for  this  purpose  is  heavier  than  for  all  other  items  com- 
bined; over  $15,000,000  for  the  biennial  period   1913-14. 

The  two  great  universities  and  one  women's  college  of  the 
Pacific  Coast  are  situated  in  suburbs  of  San  Francisco,  while 
in  the  city  itself  the  best  of  instruction  can  be  obtained  in 
almost  everything  teachable,  from  music  to  navigation.  Instruc- 
tion in  the  universities  is  free  to  citizens  of  the  State. 

The  public  free  school  system  of  San  Francisco  is  extensive 
and  efficient,  and  includes  four  high  schools  whose  graduates 
can  matriculate  at  the  universities  without  other  examination. 
This  was  the  first  city  in  the  United  States  to  establish  a  free 
school  of  navigation. 

There  is  a  fine  High  School  of  Commerce.  The  State  Nor- 
mal School  at  San  Francisco  is  conducted  by  one  of  the  most 
progressive  educators  in  the  country.  The  Cogswell  Polytech- 
nic College,  the  Wilmerding  School  of  Industrial  Arts  and 
the  California  School  of  Mechanical  Arts,  (endowed  by  James 
Lick),  and  the  Lux  School  of  Industrial  Training  for  Girls, 
are  unexcelled.     These  are  all  free  schools. 

There  are  business  colleges,  dramatic  schools,  art  schools, 
and  a  noted  Conservatory  of  Music.  And  in  the  suburbs  are 
excellent  academies  such  as  the  Belmont  School  for  Boys,  at 
Belmont,  the  Mt.  Tamalpais  Military  Academy,  near  San 
Rafael ;  St.  Matthew's  Military  School,  at  Burlingame,  and 
many  fine  schools  and  seminaries  for  young  ladies. 

The  professional  schools  of  San  Francisco  hold  high  rank. 
Among  them  are: 

Hastings  College  of  the  Law,  166  Geary  street;  the  law 
department  of  the  University  of  California. 

Hahnemann  Medical  College  of  the  Pacific,  Sacramento 
and  Maple  streets ;  homeopathic. 

Leland  Stanford  Junior  University  Department  of  Medicine, 
(formerly  Cooper  Medical  College),  at  Sacramento  and  Web- 


2  1  2  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

ster  streets,  with  the  largest  universit)'  medical  library  in  the 
country. 

University  of  California  Medical  department  and  Hospital 
(formerly  Toland  Medical  College),  at  Affiliated  Colleges, 
Parnassus  avenue,  opposite  Second  avenue.  Here  are  also 
the  departments  of  Dentistry  and  Pharmac)). 

College  of  Phvsicians  and  Surgeons,  344  Fourteenth  street; 
with  Dentistry  and  Pharmacy  departments. 

Polyclinic  Post  Graduate  Medical  Department  of  the  Uni- 
versity of  California,  443  Fillmore  street. 


UNIVERSITIES  AND  COLLEGES. 

University  of  California.  At  Berkeley,  Alameda  county; 
across  the  bay  from  San  Francisco,  and  about  a  45  minute 
ride  by  ferry  and  suburban  electric  train.     To  reach  it. 

Take  Southern  Pacific  ferry  or  Key  System  ferry,  at  the  foot 
of  Market  street,  and  Berkeley  train  at  the  pier  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  bay. 

The  University  of  California  is  one  of  the  foremost  Ameri- 
can institutions  of  learning.  Its  graduate  astronomical  depart- 
ment is  the  Lick  Observatory  on  Mt.  Hamilton,  where  Bernard 
discovered  the  fifth  satellite  of  Jupiter.  Its  College  of  Agri- 
culture was  the  first  agricultural  experiment  station  established 
in  this  country,  and  enlisted  the  services  of  such  eminent  stu- 
dents of  the  subject  as  E.  W.  Hilgard,  long  recognized  as 
the  world's  greatest  authority  on  soils,  and  E.  J.  Wickson,  a 
leader  and  an  authority  in  horticulture.  The  Le  Conte  broth- 
ers, John  famous  as  a  physicist,  and  Joseph  as  a  geologist  and 
one  of  the  earliest  teachers  of  evolution,  spent  their  productive 
years  in  the  faculty  of  this  university.  Frank  Norris,  the  nov- 
elist, Samuel  E.  Moffett,  the  publicist,  and  Josiah  Royce,  the 
I'hilosopher,  studied  here,  and  Edward  Rowland  Sill,  the 
"poet's  poet,  "  was  an  instructor  in  the  English  department. 
Jacques  Loeb,  the  great  biologist,  was  a  member  of  the  faculty. 


Universities  and  Colleges 


213 


All  over  the  world — in  Alaska,  China,  South  Africa — 
can  be  found  the  graduate  engineers  of  its  famous  school  of 
mines. 

Tuition  is  free  to  residents  of  California,  the  institution 
being  supported  by  the  state  and  by  private  endowments.  Non- 
residents of  the  state  pay  $10  half-yearly.  Expenses  in  the 
college  town  of  Berkeley  are  comparatively  light. 


UXIVI:RSITY    of    CAIJFORXIA    L1I!I?AUY,    BEIiKKr.EY. 

The  university  is  coeducational. 

In  1912-13  the  enrollment  aggregated  6,457,  the  largest 
in  the  country  with  the  single  exception  of  Columbia. 

The  Summer  School  at  the  University  of  California  is  the 
largest  of  its  kind,  and  it  attracts  more  than  two  thousand  stu- 
dents every  y(;ar,  from  all  parts  of  the  United  States.  Among 
the  teachers  have  been  such  men  as  Svant  A.  Arrhenius  of 
Stockholm;  Boltzmann,  the  Austrian  scientist;  Hugo  De  Vries 
of  Amsterdam;  John  Adam  of  the  University  of  London; 
Josiah    Royce,    Frederick    Jackson    Turner,    Albert    Bushnell 


2  1  4  Handbook   for  San  Francisco 

Hart,  and  Barrett  Wendell  of  Harvard;  Spaeth  and  Axon  of 
Princeton;  William  Lyon  Phelps  of  Yale. 

The  tuition  fee  is  $15,  and  there  are  laboratory  fees  in 
some  of  the  courses. 

The  site  of  the  University  is  a  noble  expanse  of  520  acres 
in  the  rolling  hills  of  Berkeley,  looking  over  the  Bay  of  San 
Francisco.  The  town  takes  its  name  from  the  institution,  and 
the  institution  from  the  great  transcendentalist,  the  Bishop  of 
Cloyne.  ' 

A  day  can  be  spent  most  profitably  and  enjoyably,  strolling 
amid  the  giant  oaks  of  the  campus,  some  of  them  centuries  old, 
and  visiting  the  library  and  collections  and  the  famous  Hearst 
Greek  Theater.       (See   Berkeley,   in  index.) 

Leland  Stanford  Junior  University.  At  Palo  Alto,  San 
Mateo  county,  Cal.,  30  miles  south  of  San  Francisco.  A  visit 
there  makes  a  fine  day's  outing.     To  reach  it 

Take  Southern  Pacific  train  on  the  Coast  Division,  at  Third 
end  Torvnsend  depot.  There  are  21  trains  on  tveeff  da};s  and 
1 5  on  Sundays,  and  the  trip  lal(es  about  an  hour  and  five  rriin- 
utes. 

This  institution  is  a  point  of  pride  with  Californians,  and 
although  younger  than  the  University  of  California  it  occu- 
pies an  equally  erninenl  position  in  the  world  of  education. 
Its  great  endowment  of  $25,000,000  has  enabled  it  to  attract 
lamous  teachers.  Its  teachmg  staff  is  one  of  the  strongest  in 
the  country.  It  is  coeducational,  but  the  number  of  women 
students  is  limited  to  500. 

The  university  is  located  on  the  "Palo  Alto  Farm"  of  the 
late  Senator  Leland  Stanford,  by  whom  and  by  his  wife,  Jane 
Lathrop  Stanford,  it  was  endowed  in  memory  of  Leland  Stan- 
ford Jr.,  who  died  in  his  sixteenth  year. 

The  grounds  consist  of  over  7,000  acres,  partly  rising  into 
the  foothills  of  the  Santa  Clara  range. 

All  the  subjects  of  a  full  college  course  are  offered  here, 
and  tuition  is  free  except  for  an  Incidental  and  Guild  fee  of 


Universities  and  Colleges 


215 


$17  half  yearly,  and  charges  in  the  departments  of  law  and 
medicine. 

An  adaptation  of  the  mission  style  of  architecture  has  been 
employed  on  the  campus  with  fine  effect.  The  Memorial 
Church  bears  on  pediment  and  interior  walls,  some  of  the  most 
beautiful  mosaics  in  the  world. 


VXD    STAXFOIin    JUNIOR    UNIVKUSri'V. 


The  Leland  Stanford  Junior  Museum,  containing  the  arch- 
eological  and  art  collections  of  the  university,  is  situated  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  north  and  a  little  west  of  the  Quadrangles. 
It  grew  from  the  collection  begun  by  Leland  Stanford,  Jr. 
Here  is  preserved  the  skeleton  of  the  great  sire  of  trotting  horses. 
Electioneer,  of  much  interest  to  breeders.  There  are  also  in- 
teresting collections  of  Chinese  and  Japanese  art,  and  the  Di 
Cesnola  collection  of  Greek  and  Roman  pottery. 

In  191  1-12  the  number  of  students  enrolled  was  1774,  of 
whom  2  1  6  were  graduate  students. 


216 


Handbool(   for  San  Francisco 


California  is  fortunate  in  having  two  such  universities,  each 
of  which  is  a  stimulus  to  the  other. 

Mills  College  (formerly  Mills  Seminary).  Situated  in  the 
foothill  region  east  of  Oakland,  about  an  hour's  ride  from  San 
Francisco.     To  reach  it. 

Take  Southern  Pacific  ferry  at  the  foot  of  Market  street, 
for  Alameda  pier,  and  there  change  to  train  marked  ''Oakland 


TAMPAMLE   AT   MII.T.S   ('(n.I.KCK,    OAKLAND. 

Fourteenth  5/."  (on  a  red  disk)  ^'hich  runs  to  Fourteenth  and 
Franklin  streets,  Oakland.  At  Thirteenth  and  Franklin,  a 
block  south,  take  the  Mills  College  car  (trolley).  Or,  take 
Key  System  ferry,  foot  of  Market  street,  and  electric  train  on 
the  Key  System  pier,  for  Trvelfth  and  Broadrvay,  Oakland. 
Remain  on  this  car  until  it  gets  to  First  avenue,  and  there 
change  to  Mills  College  car. 


Universities  and  Colleges  2  1  7 

Mills  is  the  only  college  exclusively  for  women,  west  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  Its  students  come  from  the  entire  west; 
from  British  Columbia  to  San  Diego;  from  Chicago  to  Hon- 
olulu and  Japan.  Matriculation  requirements  are  the  same  as 
for  the  University  of  California  and  Stanford. 

The  college  grounds,  secluded,  yet  accessible,  comprise  about 
150  acres  of  charming  country,  with  green  lawns,  palms,  rose 
gardens,  fine  woodland  and  beautiful  streams. 

The  institution  is  the  outgrowth  of  Mills  Seminary,  estab- 
lished at  Seminary  Park,  by  Rev.  Cyrus  R.  Mills  and  Mrs. 
Susan  L.  Mills  in  1871,  and  modelled  on  the  plan  of  Mount 
Holyoke.  Dr.  Mills  and  his  wife  brought  the  institution  from 
Benicia,  where  it  had  existed  as  a  Young  Ladies'  Seminary 
since  1852.  It  became  Mills  College  in  1911.  As  such, 
it  is  recognized  the  country  over  as  a  standard  college  and  was 
classed  by  the  United  States  Commissioner  of  Education  in 
his  report  for  1910  among  the  leading  sixteen  women's  col- 
leges. 

University  of  St.  Ignatius,  at  2211  Hayes  street,  corner  of 
Shrader,   opposite  St.    Mary's   Hospital. 

Hayes  and  Ellis  car.  Line  No.  21. 

This  institution  has  been  in  temporary  quarters  since  the 
great  fire,  but  will  soon  build  at  Fulton  and  Parker  avenues, 
on  the  block  where  St.  Ignatius  church  is  now  rising.  It  was 
founded  in  1855  and  empowered  by  the  state  to  confer  uni- 
versity degrees  in   1  859. 

Only  male  students  are  admitted,  and  these  only  as  day 
scholars.     Tuition,  $50  or  $80  a  year,  according  to  course. 

5/.  Mary's  College  (conducted  by  the  Brothers  of  the 
Christian  Schools),  Broadway,  between  Hawthorne  and  Or- 
chard streets,  Oakland. 

Take  Southern  Pacific  ferry,  foot  of  Market  street,  and  elec- 
tric train  to  Seventh  and  Broadrvay,  Oakland.  There  take 
trolley  car  running  out  Broadivay.     Or  take  Key  System  ferry 


2  1  8  Handbook  for  San   Francisco 

and  Oakland  train  with  red  sign  for  Twenty-second  and  Broad- 
Way,  and  there  take  Broadway  trolley. 

St.  Mary's  is  empowered  to  confer  all  academic  degrees, 
and  is  in  fact  a  university  without  the  title.  Instruction,  board 
and  lodging  are  at  the  rate  of  $1  75  per  semester. 

University  of  Santa  Clara.  In  the  Santa  Clara  valley,  44 
miles  south  of  San  Francisco  and  adjacent  to  the  old  mission 
town  of  Santa  Clara ;  a  ride  of  about  an  hour  and  thirty-five 
minutes. 

Southern  Pacific  train  on  Coast  Division,  to  Santa  Clara 
station. 

This  is  the  oldest  chartered  institution  of  learning  in  the 
West,  having  been  founded  by  the  Franciscan  fathers  De  La 
Pena  and  Murguia  on  January   12,   1777. 

Resident  students  pay  at  the  rate  of  $200  per  half  year 
term,  with  a  matriculation  fee  of  $15,  payable  but  once,  and 
an  athletic  fee  of  $2.50  per  term.  This  covers  board,  lodging, 
tuition  and  laundry.      Non-resident  fees  are  less,  in  proportion. 


HOSPITALS  AND  SANATORIA. 

San  Francisco,  since  early  days,  has  taken  high  rank  for 
the  skill  of  its  physicians  and  the  quality  of  its  medical  and 
surgical  facilities.  Dentistry  and  oral  surgery  have  been 
brought  to  a  high  stage  of  development.  Persons  requiring 
surgical  operations  come  to  San  Francisco  from  the  entire  west 
coast  of  North  and  South  America. 

Fine  hospital  buildings,  new,  sanitary,  and  with  every  mod- 
ern appliance,  have  been  erected  m  large  numbers  since  the 
fire,  and  under  the  building  laws  of  the  city  are,  of  necessity,  of 
th  best  modern  steel  and  fire-proof  construction.  There  are 
few  important  hospitals  in  the  city  are  are  more  than  seven 
years  old,  and  when  the  owners  of  the  new  structures  planned 
them  they  were  able  to  avail  themselves  of  the  best  in  equip- 


Hospitals  and  Sanatoria  219 

ment  and  arrangement  that  human  experience  could  suggest. 
Space  will  not  permit  us  to  list  all  in  the  city,  but  these  are 
among  the  leading  institutions  of  the  kind: 

Adler  Sanatorium,  northeast  corner  of  Van  Ness  avenue 
and  Broadway. 

Children's  Hospital,  Alexander  Maternity  Cottage,  Train- 
ing School  for  Nurses.  At  3700  California  street,  corner  of 
Maple. 

City  and  Count'^  Hospital.  Occupies  the  block  bounded 
by  Potrero  avenue  and  Twenty-second,  Twenty-third  and  Ver- 
mont streets. 

This  hospital  cost  $2,000,000  to  construct,  is  entirely  new, 
and  is  probably  the  finest  municipal  institution  of  its  kind. 

Florence  N.  Ward  Sanatorium.  At  1  195  Bush  street,  cor- 
ner of  Hyde. 

French  Hospital,  "Maison  de  Sante  de  la  Societe  Francaise 
de  Bienfaisance  Mutuelle."  Geary  street  (Point  Lobos  avenue) 
between  Fifth  and  Sixth  avenues. 

German  Hospital.     Fourteenth  and  Noe  streets. 

Hahnemann  Hospital.  Northeast  corner  of  California  and 
Maple  streets. 

Lane  Hospital.  Clay  and  Webster  streets.  X-ray,  clinical 
and  pathological  laboratories  under  direction  of  the  medical 
department  of  Leland  Stanford  Junior  University. 

Letterman  General  Hospital.  (United  States  Army)  Pre- 
sidio military  reservation. 

This  is  the  largest  American  army  hospital,  and  cost  approx- 
imately half  a  million  dollars.  There  is  bed  capacity  for  500, 
and  the  accommodations  can  be  expanded  to  take  care  of 
1,000. 

McNutt  Hospital,  at  1055  Pine  street,  between  Jones  and 
Taylor. 

Morton  Hospital.     At  775  Cole  street. 

Employes  of  the  Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  railway 
needing  hospital  services  in  San  Francisco  are  accommodated 
here. 


220  Handbook  for  San   Francisco 

Mount  Zion  Hospital.  At  2341  Sutter  street,  near  Divisa- 
dero.  A  new  building  is  in  course  of  construction  at  Post  and 
Scott  streets. 

St.  Francis  Hospital.     Bush  and  Hyde  streets. 

5/.  Joseph's  Hospital.  Park  Hill  and  Buena  Vista  avenues. 
Conducted  by  the  Franciscan  Sisters  of  the  Sacred  Heart. 

5/.  Luf(es  Hospital.     Twenty-seventh  and  Valencia  streets. 

5^  Mark's  Hospital.  Hayes  and  Stanyan  streets,  opposite 
the  east  end  of  Golden  Gate  Park.  Conducted  by  the  Sisters 
of  Mercy. 

Saint  Winifred's  Hospital.  At  1  065  Sutter  street,  between 
Hyde  and  Larkin. 

Southern  Pacific  Hospital.     At  Fell  and  Baker  streets. 

Exclusively  for  employes  of  the  Southern  Pacific  railroad. 
One  of  the  best  railroad  hospitals  ever  built. 

Trinity  Hospital.  At  1  500  Page  street,  corner  of  Masonic 
avenue. 

United  States  Marine  Hospital.  On  the  Marine  Hospital 
reservation  adjoining  the  Presidio  of  San  Francisco.  For  the 
care  and  treatment  of  seamen  from  the  Merchant  Marine. 

University  of  California  Hospital.  Second  and  Parnassus 
avenues. 

This  is  the  hospital  of  the  Affiliated  Colleges  of  the  Uni- 
versity of  California. 

Five  emergency  hospitals  are  maintained  by  the  municipality 
in  different  parts  of  the  city.     They  are  located  as  follows: 

Central  Emergency  Hospital.     Stevenson  street,  near  Eighth. 

Harbor  Emergency  Hospital.     No.  7  Clay  street. 

Parl(  Emergency  Hospital.  Stanyan  street  near  Waller, 
close  to  the  Haight  street  entrance  to  Golden  Gate  Park. 

Potrero  Emergency  Hospital.      1  1  52  Kentucky  street. 

Mission  Emergency  Hospital.  Twenty-third  street  and  Po- 
trero avenue. 


Telegraph  and  Express  Offices  221 

. ,         i 

TELEGRAPH,  CABLE  AND  EXPRESS  OFFICES.  ' 

Westerr^  Union  Telegraph  Co.     Main  office.  Pine  and  Mont-         : 
gomery.     Messages  can  be  telephoned  in  by  calling  for  "West- 
ern Union."     Always  open. 

American  District  Telegraph  Company  messengers  furnished 
at  all  Western  Union  offices. 

Federal  Telegraph  Co.,  Merchants'  Exchange  building;  9 
a.  m.  to  5  :30  p.  m. 

1 49  Montgomery.  7  a.  m.  to  8  p.  m. ;  Sundays  I  0  a.  m 
to  2  p.  m.,  and  4  p.  m.  to  8  p.  m. 

Marconi   Wireless   Telegraph  Co.   of  America,   Merchants'         | 
Exchange   building.      Office   8:30   to   5:30.      Station   always 
open. 

Postal  Telegraph  Cable  Co.,  N.  E.  corner  Market  and  Bat- 
tery   (main  office).      Always  open. 


EXPRESS    OFFICES. 

Adams  Express  Co.  Tracing,  delivery  and  claim  depart- 
ment, 54  Post  street.  Wagon  and  call  department.  Ferry 
building.  Money  orders,  travelers'  checks,  foreign  postal  remit- 
tances, money  paid  by  telegraph. 

Globe  Express  Co.  Tracing,  delivery  and  claim  department, 
54  Post  street.  General  Superintendent's  office.  Mills  building. 
Wagon  and  call  department.  Ferry  building.  Money  orders, 
travelers'  checks,  foreign  postal  remittances,  money  paid  by 
telegraph. 

IVells  Fargo  &  Company.  Main  office.  Second  and  Mis- 
sion streets.  Money  orders,  travelers'  checks,  foreign  postal 
remittances,  money  paid  by  telegraph. 


222  Handhool(   for  San   Francisco 

SAN  FRANCISCO'S  PRINCIPAL  STEAMSHIP 
CONNECTIONS. 

PASSENGERS  AND   FREIGHT. 

Alaska  Pacific  Steamship  Company.  For  Seattle,  Tacoma 
and  Alaska.  Howard  street  wharf.  Ticket  office,  654 
Market. 

Independent  Steamship  Company.  For  San  Pedro.  How- 
ard street  wharf.     Ticket  office,  648  Market. 

Matson  Navigation  Company.  For  the  Hawaiian  Islands — 
Honolulu,  Port  Allen,  Kahului,  Kaanapoli  and  Hilo.  Ticket 
office,  268  Market. 

North  Pacific  Steamship  Company.  For  Portland,  Eureka, 
San  Diego,  San  Pedro,  Santa  Barbara,  San  Luis  Obispo. 
Vallejo  street  wharf.  Ticket  office,  654  Market,  and  3 
Market. 

Oceanic  Steamship  Company.  For  Honolulu,  Pago  Pago 
and  Samoa,  and  Australia.  California  and  Davis  street.  Tick- 
et office,  673  Market. 

Pacific  Coast  Steamship  Company.  For  Los  Angeles,  Santa 
Barbara,  San  Diego,  Seattle,  Tacoma,  Victoria,  Vancouver 
and  Alaska.  112  Market,  653  Market  and  Broadway 
wharf. 

Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company.  For  Honolulu,  Japan 
and  China,  Mexico,  Central  America  and  Panama.  Flood 
i)uilding.  Market  and  Powell  street.  Ticket  office,  722  Mar- 
ket. 

Pacific  Navigation  Company.  For  San  Pedro  and  San 
Diego.     Pacific  street  wharf.     Ticket  office,  680  Market. 

San  Francisco  and  Portland  Steamship  Company.  For  Los 
Angeles,  Portland  and  Astoria.  Flood  building,  Powell  and 
Market. 

Toyo  Kisen  Kaisha.  For  Honolulu,  China  and  Japan. 
Merchants'  National  Bank  building,  631    Market. 


Steamship  Connections  223 

Union  Steamship  Company  of  NeTv  Zealand.     Hind,  Rolph 
&  Co.,  agents.     For  Tahiti,  New  Zealand  and  Australia.     310 
California.     Ticket  office,  679  Market. 
FREIGHT. 

American-Hawaiian  Steamship  Company.  For  Puget  Sound. 
Hawaii  and  Salina  Cruz,  Mexico.  Greenwich  street  wharf 
and  3  1  0  Sansome. 

East  Asiatic  Companies,  Lid.  From  Europe  via  Straits  of 
Magellan.     Parrott  &  Co.,  agents,  320  California. 

Harrison  Line.  For  Europe,  Los  Angeles,  Portland,  Seat- 
tle, Tacoma,  Vancouver.  Balfour,  Guthrie  &  Co.,  agents. 
350  California. 

Kosmos  Line.  For  South  American  ports  and  Europe,  I  58 
California  street. 

Lucf^enhach  Steamship  Company.  For  New  York,  via 
Panama.     Merchants'  Exchange  building,  431   California. 

Maple  Leaf  Line.  For  Europe.  E.  C.  Evans  &  Sons, 
agents,  260  California. 

Pollard  Steamship  Company.  For  Grays  Harbor,  Tacoma, 
Seattle,  Vancouver,  Victoria.     244  California. 

Robert  Dollar  Company.  For  China  and  Japan.  1 60 
California. 

W.  R.  Grace  &  Co.  (New  York  and  Pacific  Steamship 
Company).  For  New  York,  Seattle,  Peru,  Bolivia,  Chile. 
California  and  Battery. 

In  addition  to  the  above  there  is  a  large  number  of  lumber 
and  other  vessels  running  from  San  Francisco  to  various  coast 
ports. 


CLUBS  AND  SOCIETIES. 

In  San  Francisco,  club  life  presents  extraordinary  distinc- 
tion and  charm.  Out  of  the  marked  individuality  of  the  peo- 
ple and  their  socially  stimulating  environment  have  arisen  such 
famous  organizations  as  the  Bohemian  Club,  the  Family  Club, 
the  Commonwealth,  the  Olympic  and  others. 


224  Handbook   for  San   Francisco 

We  can  not  present  a  complete  club  directory,  but  may 
mention  some  of  the  most  distinctive  and  interesting,  as  indi- 
cative of  the  social  condition  of  the  community.  Lodge  meet- 
ing notices  of  all  the  more  important  fraternal  orders  will  be 
found  m  the  daily  papers. 

Pacific  Union  Club.  Occupying  what  was  once  the  brown 
stone  mansion  of  the  Comstock  mining  operator,  James  C. 
Flood,  on  California  street  between  Mason  and  Cushman 
streets,  across  from  the  Fairmont  hotel.  There  is  probably  no 
club  in  the  world  that  has  such  a  spacious  and  beautiful  home. 

Bohemian  Club.  At  Post  and  Taylor  streets.  This  is  the 
most  famous  club  in  San  Francisco,  and  one  of  the  really  great 
clubs  of  the  world.  Its  home  in  the  city  is  embellished  with 
sculptures  by  some  of  its  members,  and  decorated  with  sketches 
in  the  gayest  spirit,  illustrative  of  Bohemian  club  life. 

The  mid-summer  grove-play  of  this  organization,  concluding 
with  the  "Cremation  of  Care,"  is  world-famous.  The  festival 
is  held  in  a  magnificent  240-acre  grove  of  California  redwoods, 
which  the  club  owns,  near  Monte  Rio,  in  Sonoma  county. 

Members  camp  here  for  two  weeks,  and  the  festival  concludes 
with  a  dramatic  performance  staged  amid  great  redwoods  on 
a  sloping  hillside,  forming  a  vast  stage-set  beyond  the  facilities 
of  any  theater  to  produce.  The  grove-play  of  the  Bohemian 
Club  is  a  distinctly  Californian  art  growth,  and  yet  such  a  thing 
as  might  have  been  born  in  the  golden  age  of  Greece.  The 
text  is  always  written  by  a  member,  and  the  music  is  also  the 
work  of  a  member.  Members  take  the  parts,  and  none  but 
members  and  visitors  with  cards  of  membership,  are  privileged 
to  witness  it. 

Olympic  Club.  At  524  Post  street.  This  is  the  oldest 
existing  amateur  athletic  organization  in  the  world  and  one  of 
the  greatest.  It  was  formed  May  6,  1  860,  and  antedates  the 
oldest  athletic  organizations  of  New  York  and  London  by 
several  years.  Burned  out  by  the  fire  of  1906,  it  rebuilt  on 
the  old  site.  The  corner-stone  of  the  present  building  was  laid 
May  6,   1911,  and  the  club  reopened  on  June   15,   1912. 


Clubs  and  Societies  225 


In  its  long  life  the  Olympic  has  contributed  much  to  the 
movement  in  favor  of  athletics,  and  clean  athletics,  throughout 
the  country.  It  has  produced  great  boxers  and  wrestlers;  and 
such  famous  track  athletes  at  Robert  Haley,  Peter  Gerhardt, 
V.  E.  Schifferstein  and  Jack  Nelson,  the  "even  time"  men, 
who  could  run  1  00  yards  in  ten  seconds,  or  220  in  22.  Ralph 
Rose,  the  world's  champion  shot  putter,  was  a  member  of  this 
club,  and  so  is  George  Horine,  champion  high  jumper  of  the 
world,  both  of  whom  represented  the  United  States  at  the 
Olympic  games  at  Stockholm  in  1912. 

The  club  house  is  one  of  the  most  beautifully  furnished  and 
appointed  buildings  in  the  city. 

Probably  the  pride  of  the  place  is  the  swimming  plunge,  1  00 
feet  long  and  35  feet  wide,  in  a  spacious  Italian  marble  cham- 
ber. The  pool  is  filled  daily  with  salt  water  pumped  from 
the  ocean. 

The  membership  of  the  Olympic  club  is  over  2,400 — larger 
than  that  of  any  other  men's  athletic  club  in  America  except 
the  New  York  Athletic. 

Universii])  Club.  Corner  of  Powell  and  California  streets. 
More  members  of  the  city's  younger  university  men  can  be 
found  here  than  at  any  other  gathering  place  in  San  Francisco. 

The  University)  of  California  Club  has  its  home  at  212 
Stockton  street. 

Union  League  Club,  with  handsomely  appointed  quarters 
at  the  corner  of  Powell  and  O'Farrell  streets,  in  the  downtown 
section. 

The  Southern  Club  has  a  beautiful  home  at  California  and 
Jones  streets  with  a  classic  portico  suggesting  colonial  times  and 
the  "days  before  the  war." 

Press  Club  of  San  Francisco.  Southwest  corner  of  Sutter 
and  Powell  streets.  The  Press  Club  is  allied  with  the  Friars 
Club  of  New  York.  The  membership  is  well  over  450,  and 
includes  former  Presidents  Taft  and  Roosevelt  and  Secretary 
Knox.     The  club  holds  an  annual  show  on  the   1  7th  of  April 


226  Handbook  for  San   Francisco 

at  one  of  the  down  town  theaters.  The  new  quarters  are  hand- 
some and  commodious. 

Familxi  Club.  Corner  of  Bush  and  Powell  streets.  This 
is  one  of  the  clubs  that  join  the  country  feature  to  the  city 
phase  of  club  life.  It  owns  a  beautiful  "Farm"  with  a  red- 
wood grove,  in  Woodside  canyon,  back  of  Redwood  City, 
San  Mateo  county. 

San  Francisco  Commercial  Club.  On  the  fourteenth  floor 
of  the  Merchants  Exchange  building,  431  California  street. 
This  is  an  association  of  about  1450  of  the  leading  business 
men  of  the  city. 

Transportation  Club  of  San  Francisco.  Mezzanine  floor  of 
the  Palace  Hotel. 

Concordia  Club.  This  is  one  of  the  leading  Jewish  social 
organizations  of  the  city.  It  is  located  at  1  1 42  Van  Ness 
avenue,  between  Post  and  Geary. 

Argonaut  Club.  At  Post  and  Powell.  Another  well- 
known  Jewish  club,  which  grew  out  of  the  San  Francisco 
Verein,  organized  in  1853 — one  of  the  earliest  social  organiza- 
tions in  the  community,  if  not  the  oldest. 

Alliance  Francaise.  Headquarters  for  San  Francisco  are 
at   108  Sutter  street;  French-American  Bank  building. 

Ad  Mens  Club.  Secretary,  Frederick  S.  Nelson,  121  Post 
street. 

Pacific  Aero  Club.  In  room  730  Pacific  building,  at  Fourth 
and  Market  streets.  Affiliated  with  the  Aero  Club  of  America, 
and  through  that  organization  with  the  Federation  Aeronautique 
Internationale. 

Sierra  Club.  This  is  one  of  the  celebrated  mountaineering 
clubs  of  the  world,  and  the  second  largest  in  the  United  States. 
Its  summer  outings,  which  travelers  come  from  almost  every 
country  to  join,  offer  facilities  for  mountain  climbing  and  ex- 
ploration that  would  be  unattainable  without  it. 

The  president  is  John  Muir,  author  of  several  works  descrip- 
tive of  the  Sierra  and  their  Big  Tree  groves;  "The  Mountains 
of  California,"  "Our  National  Parks,"  "My  First  Summer  in 


Clubs  and  Societies  227 


the  Sierra,"  and  "The  Yosemite."  The  secretary  is  WiHiam 
E.  Colby,  604  Mills  building.  Bush  and  Montgomery  streets. 
The  club  has  its  city  headquarters  in  the  Mills  building,  room 
402,  where  members  and  visitors  may  consult  its  remarkable 
collection  of  books,  maps,  exchanges  and  photographs  relating 
to  mountaineering;  and  it  also  has  mountain  headquarters,  dur- 
ing the  months  of  heaviest  travel,  in  the  Le  Conte  Memorial 
Lodge,  Yosemite  Valley,  where  there  is  a  library  and  a  reading 
room  and  where  the  club's  custodian  is  always  prepared  to 
furnish  practical  data  about  the  mountains.  In  fact,  the  most 
serviceable  information  on  all  phases  of  California  mountaineer- 
ing can  always  be  obtained  from  this  organization. 

California  Camera  Club.  At  833  Market  street,  between 
Fourth  and  Fifth.  Visitors  to  San  Francisco  interested  in 
photography  are  invited  to  call  at  the  club  rooms.  This  club  is 
probably  unique,  and  in  membership  is  the  largest  organization 
of  camera  artists  in  the  country.  It  is  not  only  a  rendezvous 
for  advanced  photographers,  but  a  school  for  the  beginner  and 
the  amateur,  where  every  convenience  has  been  assembled  for 
photographic  work.  There  is  a  fine  library  of  reference  works 
on  photography. 

Commonrvealth  Club  of  California.  At  153  Kearny  street. 
This  is  an  active  and  vigorous  organization  for  the  study  and 
discussion  of  problems  affecting  the  community  with  a  view  to 
assisting  in  their  solution.  Students  of  such  subjects  may  con- 
sult the  club's  growing  library  on  political,  economic  and  socio- 
logical topics,  at  the  rooms,  which  are  open  from  9  a.  m.  to  5 
p.  m.,  week  days,  except  Saturday,  when  they  close  at  3  p.  m. 

Local  Council  of  Women,  member  of  the  National  Council. 
President,  Miss  Jessica  Lee  Briggs,  1 942  A  Hyde  street;  cor- 
responding secretary,  Mrs.  Augusta  Jones,  2524  Clay  street. 
This  body  represents  between  2,500  and  3,000  women,  being 
a  federation  of  the  women's  clubs  of  the  city. 

Academ])  of  Sciences.  343  Sansome  street.  Soon  to  erect 
a  fine  steel-framed  building  near  the  Francis  Scott  Key  Monu- 
ment in  Golden  Gate  Park,  where  its  large  natural  history  col- 


228  Handbook,  for  San   Francisco 

lections  will  be  housed.      Its  collection  of  water-fowl  is  said  to 
be  the  best  in  the  world. 

San  Francisco  Turn  Verein.  At  2450  Sutter  street,  between 
Divisadero  and  Broderick.  Accessible  from  the  hotel  district 
b])  Sutter  street  cars  on  Lines  Nos.   I  or  2. 

Columbia  Park  Bo'ps'  Club  of  San  Francisco.  At  458 
Guerrero  street,  between  Sixteenth  and  Seventeenth. 

Valencia  street  car.  Line  No.  9,  to  Sixteenth,  and  rvalk  one 
block  T^cst  to  Guerrero;  or  Fillmore  street  line  to  Sixteenth  and 
Guerrero;  also  fcp  lines  10  or  26,  on  Mission  street,  to  Seven- 
teenth and  Guerrero.  Visitors  are  always  welcome.  Mem- 
bership is  limited  to  those  under  1  2  years.  There  are  no  dues, 
but  personal  service  is  exacted  from  every  member.  The  boys 
are  called  upon  continually  to  assist  in  charitable  enterprises, 
and  through  their  bands,  chorals  and  athletic  and  dramatic  per- 
formances have  been  able  to  earn  their  way  on  travel  tours  to 
every  city  and  town  in  the  State,  along  the  west  coast  as  far 
as  Seattle,  east  as  far  as  New  York,  and  across  the  Pacific  and 
throughout  Australasia.  At  this  writing  a  number  of  them  are 
on  a  tour  of  the  world,  and  in  England  were  entertained  on  Sir 
Thomas  Lipton's  yacht. 

The  work  is  in  progress  after  3:30  every  day  except  Satur- 
days and  Sundays.  There  is  military  drill  at  1  I  o'clock  Satur- 
day.     Visitors  are  always  welcome. 

Caledonian  Club  of  San  Francisco.  Meets  the  first  and 
third  Fridays  of  the  month  at  121  Larkin  street,  one  block 
north  of  Market. 

San  Francisco  Scottish  Thistle  Club.  Regular  meetings  are 
held  on  the  second  and  fourth  Thursdays  of  the  month  at  1  2  I 
Larkin  street,  the  latter  being  a  "smoker." 

Recreation  League  of  San  Francisco.  Office  in  the  Phelan 
building  at  760  Market  street.  An  amalgamation  of  over  80 
civic,  commercial  and  philanthropic  organizations  to  promote 
an  interest  in  outdoor  sports  and  to  make  San  Francisco  known 
as  a  city  of  play. 


Clubs  and  Societies  229 


Sequoia  Club.  At  1  725  Washington  street,  between  Polk 
street  and  Van  Ness  avenue.  Sequoia  Club  Hall  building. 
Gertrude  Atherton  is  an  honorary  member,  and  so  is  Ina  Cool- 
brith,  the  poet. 

San  Francisco- Alaslf a  Club.  At  4  Eddy  street,  near  Mar- 
ket and  Powell. 

Commercial  Travelers'  1915.  Otto  C.  Sievers,  673  Fourth 
avenue,  secretary.  Meets  second  and  fourth  Fridays  at  444 
Market  street. 

Pacific  Coasl  Commercial  Travelers'  Association.  Head- 
quarters 444  Market.      Meets  last  Saturday  of  the  month. 

San  Francisco  Commercial  Travelers'  Association.  Meets 
second  and  fourth  Tuesdays  at  61  1    Pacific  building. 

San  Francisco  Chapter  of  the  American  Institute  of  Archi- 
tects. Sylvain  Schnaittacher,  secretary.  First  National  Bank 
building,  Montgomery  and  Post  streets. 

San  Francisco  Architectural  Club.  Harry  Thompson,  sec- 
retary, 126  Post  street. 

The  Bar  Association  of  San  Francisco  extends  a  welcome  to 
visiting  attorneys  that  may  wish  to  consult  its  law  library, 
ninth  floor  of  the  Pacific  building.  Market  and  Fourth  streets. 

The  Order  of  Railway  Conductors,  Division  I  1  3,  meets  at 
530  Bryant  street  on  the  first  and  third  Tuesdays  of  the  month. 
There  are  two  lodges  of  the  Brotherhood  of  Railroad  Train- 
men in  this  city.  San  Francisco  Lodge  No.  198  meets  at  530 
Bryant  street,  at  7:30  p.  m.,  on  the  first  Tuesday  of  the  month, 
and  at  1  :30  p.  m.,  on  the  third  Sunday.  Golden  Gate  Lodge 
No.  846  meets  at  the  same  place  on  the  second  Wednesday 
and  the  third  Saturday  of  the  month  at  12:30  p.  m. 

Besides  these  there  are  the  Army  and  Navy  Club,  at  126 
Post  street;  the  California  Anglers'  Association,  at  15 
Stockton  street;  the  Concatenated  Order  of  Hoo-Hoo,  in  the 
Fife  building,  with  a  membership  among  the  lumbermen ;  and 
many  more. 

The  San  Francisco  Labor  Council  meets  every  Friday  at  8 
p.  m.,  at  the  Labor  Temple,  316  Fourteenth  street. 


230 


Handbook  for  San   Francisco 


Commercial  Organizations  231 

Building  Trades  Council  headquarters  are  at  Building 
Trades  Temple,  Fourteenth  and  Guerrero  streets.  The  gen- 
eral president  and  secretary-treasurer  of  the  State  Building 
Trades  Council  have  headquarters  in  the  Merchants  National 
Bank  building. 


COMMERCIAL  ORGANIZATIONS. 

Board  of  Trade  of  San  Francisco.  Located  at  444  Market 
street,  foot  of  Bush.  There  is  no  exhibit  here,  nor  other  feature 
of  interest  to  the  visitor,  the  Board  being  organized  to  carry  out 
certain  business  objects  of  its  members. 

Merchants  Exchange.  This  organization  formerly  regulated 
the  shipping,  grain,  beans,  hay  and  allied  trades  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, but  its  commercial  functions  were  assumed  by  the  San 
Francisco  Chamber  of  Commerce  when  that  body  was  formed 
by  the  consolidation  of  the  Merchants'  Association,  the  Mer- 
chants' Exchange,  the  Down  Town  Association  and  the  old 
Chamber  of  Commerce  of  San  Francisco,  in  1911.  The  Ex- 
change now  exists  as  a  holding  body  for  the  Merchants'  Ex- 
change building. 

San  Francisco  Chan:bcr  of  Commerce.  The  offices  of  the 
Chamber  are  on  the  thirteenth  floor  of  the  Merchants'  Exchange 
building,  431  California  street.  Information  about  San  Fran- 
cisco can  be  obtained  here  during  business  hours.  The  organi- 
zation has  over  3,000  members,  is  the  third  largest  in  the  coun- 
try, and  the  largest  body  of  its  kind  in  the  United  States  in  pro- 
portion to  the  size  of  the  city  it  represents.  It  is  the  one  central 
civic  and  commercial  organization  of  San  Francisco,  and  is  con- 
tinuously at  work  through  its  Board  of  Directors  and  its  forty 
standing  and  special  committees  to  promote  the  trade  and  wel- 
fare of  the  community.  This  hand  book  has  been  compiled 
and  published  by  its  Publicity  Committee. 


232  Handbook  for  San   Francisco 

The  Chamber  maintains  an  active  Traffic  Bureau,  a  Foreign 
Trade  Department,  a  Municipal  Affairs  committee,  an  Inspec- 
tion Bureau  that  watches  the  expenditure  of  pubhc  funds  and 
the  execution  of  pubhc  works,  a  Reception  Committee,  a  Grain 
Inspection  Department,  which  grades  the  quaHty  of  grain  bought 
and  sold  on  the  exchange  and  passes  on  the  regularity  of  the 
warehouses  in  which  it  is  stored.  Arbitration  and  Appeals  com- 
mittees, before  which  commercial  arbitrations  are  conducted,  a 
Publicity  Department,  a  Domestic  Trade  Extension  com- 
mittee that  has  conducted  jobbers'  and  manufacturers  excur- 
sions all  over  California,  and  a  National  and  Foreign  Affairs 
committee  that  watches  the  trend  of  national  legislation  and 
diplomacy  and  its  possible  effect  on  San  Francisco,  through  a 
special  Washington  Bureau.  Few  cities  have  such  concentra- 
tion of  civic  and  commercial  function  as  this. 

The  Exchange  Hall  of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  is  on  the 
ground  floor  of  the  Merchants'  Exchange  building  at  431  Cali- 
fornia street,  and  here  is  conducted  the  trade  of  the  city,  and 
of  the  State  as  well,  in  barley,  oats,  wheat,  flour  and  beans. 
The  transactions  take  place  at  two  sessions  a  day ;  from  1  1  to 
1  1  :30  a.  m.,  and  2  to  2:30  p.  m.  Through  a  door  near  the 
east  or  Leidesdorff  street  end  of  the  cross  corridor,  visitors  are 
admitted  to  a  small  railed  gallery  overlookmg  the  grain  pit. 

This  is  the  hall  in  which,  on  April  28,  1910,  amid  a 
tumult  of  enthusiasm  such  as  few  cities  have  ever  witnessed, 
citizens  of  San  Francisco  subscribed  over  four  million  dollars 
m  less  than  two  hours  as  a  beginning  for  the  Panama-Pacific 
Exposition. 

The  San  Francisco  Stock  and  Bond  Exchange  is  on  the 
ground  floor  of  the  Merchants'  Exchange  building,  431  Cali- 
fornia street.     Sessions  are  at  10:30  a.  m.  and  2  p.  m. 


sports  233 

SPORTS. 

If  nothing  else  did,  results  of  sporting  contests  would  go  far 
toward  establishing  the  proposition  that  San  Francisco  is  a 
place  where  men  do  things  well. 

One  San  Franciscan,  W.  D.  Mansfield,  is  the  world  s 
champion  amateur  fly  caster.  Another,  George  Horine,  is  the 
world's  champion  amateur  high  jumper.  Another,  Ralph  Rose, 
is  the  world's  champion  amateur  1  6-pound  shot  putter.  An- 
other, Adolph  Strecker,  held  a  world's  rifle  championship  for 
many  years.  Another,  James  E.  Gorman,  has  a  pistol  score 
that  is  the  highest  ever  made,  and  a  revolver  score  that  has 
never  been  beaten.  Another  San  Franciscan,  Maurice  E.  Mc- 
Laughlin, is  the  champion  tennis  player  of  the  United  States. 

Sport  is  hospitable  here.  Almost  without  exception  the  vis- 
itor properly  introduced  will  find  a  welcome  among  the  sports- 
men's organizations.  For  the  service  of  travelers  we  present 
here  some  information  that  will  enable  them  to  enjoy  the  out- 
door attractions  of  the  Bay  region. 

California,  as  one  enthusiast  has  put  it,  is  "one  great  fish  and 
game  preserve."  Deer  are  actually  more  numerous  in  this  State 
today  than  they  were  30  years  ago,  owing  to  the  destruction  of 
panthers  and  other  predatory  animals,  under  a  wise  bounty 
system. 

The  State  is  750  miles  long,  well  watered,  in  parts  heavily 
wooded,  with  noble  stretches  of  game  cover,  and  some  of  the 
grandest  trout  streams  to  be  found. 

Fish  and  game  abound,  and  if  you  want  to  get  a  shot  at  a 
cinnamon  bear,  waylay  a  cougar  or  entice  a  steelhead  with  a 
dry  fly,  there  are  plenty  of  resorts  so  near  San  Francisco  that 
you  can  reach  them  with  no  more  luggage  than  your  bag  and 
gun  case,  and  no  longer  than  a  few  days'  absence  from  your 
comfortable  city  hotel.  In  fact,  San  Francisco  is  the  focus  of 
a  "Sportsman's  Paradise." 

So  long  is  the  state  and  so  infinitely  varied  are  its  natural 
conditions  that  no  general  game  laws  could  be  applied  to  it,  and 


234  Handbook   for  San   Francisco 

it  has  been  necessary  for  the  legislature  to  divide  it  into  six 
districts  and  vary  the  law  among  them.  Closed  and  open  sea- 
sons differ  with  the  locality.  Moreover,  county  boards  of 
supervisors  have  been  vested  by  the  legislature  with  power  to 
shorten  the  open  seasons,  so  that  it  is  difficult  to  present  reliable 
data  on  this  point  that  would  stay  so  for  any  length  of  time. 
Many  of  the  sporting  goods  houses  print  excerpts  from  the  law 
and  diagrams  of  seasons,  so  that  current  information  for  any 
lime  and  place  can  be  obtained  from  them. 

FISHING. 

One  dollar  license  is  required  for  fishing.  As  to  rods  and 
tackle,  San  Francisco  sporting  goods  houses  can  supply  the  best 
quality  to  be  found  of  the  suitable  thing,  and  advice  about  its  use. 

For  salmon,  the  Wilson  spoon,  a  famous  killer  hereabouts, 
is  a  native  San  Franciscan,  and  the  Kewell  spoon  is  another 
good  one. 

Salmon.  Some  of  the  liveliest  salmon  fishing  in  the  world 
can  be  enjoyed  right  in  San  Francisco  Bay,  or  just  "outside 
the  heads." 

Beginning  in  June,  and  sometimes  as  early  as  May,  the 
salmon  begin  to  run  at  Monterey,  85  miles  due  south  of 
this  city,  or  1  22  miles  by  rail.  Here,  in  this  quaint  old  Span- 
ish town,  the  original  capital  of  California,  you  can  get  good 
accommodations,  boats  and  launches,  bait,  and  men  to  take  you 
out.  Other  points  on  Monterey  Bay  are  Santa  Cruz,  Capitola, 
Aptos,  Soquel,  and  the  famous  resort,  Del  Monte,  all  easily 
reached  from  San  Francisco  by  the  Southern  Pacific  railroad, 
and  all  able  to  supply  fishing  facilities. 

Within  a  few  weeks  after  the  run  begins  at  Monterey  the 
salmon  will  have  reached  the  Golden  Gate.  The  sporting 
goods  houses  along  Market  street,  or  north  Kearny  street,  will 
be  glad  to  give  you  the  needed  information  to  the  minute. 

This  is  the  time,  if  you  wish  to  hook  a  fifty-pound  fish  with 


sports  235 

fighting  blood  in  him,  to  arrange  with  G.  Sanguinetti  for  a 
gasohne  crab  launch  from  Fishermen's  Wharf  to  take  you 
out. 

Sanguinetti  should  have  a  day's  notice.  His  place  is  at  the 
southwest  corner  of  Mason  and  Jefferson  streets. 

Take  the  Powell  street  cable  car  marked  ''Market  and 
PoTvell,  Ba^  and  Taylor''  and  go  to  the  terminus.  Fishermen's 
Wharf  is  dead  ahead  about  four  blocks,  Jefferson  is  the  last 
street  before  you  reach  it,  and  Mason  is  one  block  to  your  right 
(east).  The  right  price  for  the  launch  and  its  engineer  should 
be  $  1  0,  and  the  boatman  will  supply  the  bait. 

In  the  same  manner  you  can  get  rock  cod  fishing  around 
Angel  Island  and  Raccoon  straits,  (between  Angel  island  and 
Belvedere)  and  striped  bass  in  the  rivers,  creeks  and  sloughs 
that  communicate  with  the  Bay.  The  bass  afford  fine  sport, 
often  weighing  as  high  as  55  pounds,  and  furnishing  the  best 
of  food.  Launches  can  be  hired,  also,  from  the  Crowley 
Launch  and  Tugboat  company,  from  Henry  Peterson,  Charles 
Peterson,  Johnson,  Lang,  John  Leary  and  others,  who  can 
be  found  along  the  water  front,  and  by  consulting  the  tele- 
phone directory. 

Launches  and  rowboats  can  be  had  at  Sausalito  and  at 
Tiburon. 

Trout.  Fly  fishing  for  Steelhead  is  a  popular  sport  in  the 
vicinity  of  San  Francisco.  A  steelhead  is  supposed  to  be  a  rain- 
bow trout  that  has  been  to  sea,  and  he  is  a  great  fighting  fish. 

Probably  the  finest  steelhead  fishing  to  be  found  near  this  city 
(and  it  is  near  enough  so  one  can  go  and  return  the  same 
day),  is  in  San  Gregorio  lagoon  and  creek,  three  miles  beyond 
the  present  terminus  of  the  Ocean  Shore  railroad's  northern 
division.  There  is  a  stage  connection  at  Tunitas  Glen,  where 
the  division  ends  at  present. 

Five  miles  below  San  Gregorio  is  Pescadero,  also  very  fine. 

The  Ocean  Shore  skirts  the  bluffs  just  above  the  sea,  south- 
ward from  San  Francisco  for  38  miles,  and  northward  from 
Santa  Cruz   15|/2   miles,  cutting  across  the  courses  of  several 


236  Handbook  for  San   Francisco 

trout  streams.  In  1912  the  company  put  into  these  streams 
200,000  young  fish  from  the  state  hatcheries.  At  any  access- 
ible beach  along  the  line,  and  there  are  many  of  them,  the 
surf-fishing  for  cod,  eels  and  perch  is  good,  and  numbers  of 
people  find  recreation  and  good  food  gathering  mussels  and 
abalones  from  the  rocks. 

Trains  on  the  Ocean  Shore  leave  the  city  from  Twelfth  and 
Market  streets.  Returning,  one  can  leave  Tunitas  at  5:30 
p.  m.,  arriving  at  Twelfth  and  Market  at  7:35  p.  m.  There 
are  four  daily  trains  down  this  road  at  present. 

North  of  San  Francisco,  up  to  the  Oregon  line,  is  a  stretch 
of  coast  country  heavily  wooded,  with  cover  for  quail,  doves, 
grey  and  Douglas  squirrel,  deer,  bear  and  cougar,  and  with 
living  streams  that  reach  the  ocean  and  abound  in  fish.  The 
Northwestern  Pacific,  leaving  Sausalito,  threads  this  region 
for  about  150  miles,  to  Sherwood,  Mendocino  county,  and  for 
most  of  the  distance  runs  several  trains  a  day. 

Large  areas  of  this  country  are  heavily  timbered  with  virgin 
redwood  forest,  and  its  rough  mountain  ranges  are  gashed  to 
the  sea  with  rivers  whose  very  names  spell  fish  to  a  Californian. 
Detailed  information  can  be  obtained  at  the  ticket  office  of  the 
company,  874  Market  street. 

Lake  county  is  called  the  Switzerland  of  California.  Min- 
eral springs  are  many  and  a  health  resort  has  been  built  beside 
nearly  every  one.  Hunting  and  fishing  are  good  all  through 
the  region. 

Southward  again  from  San  Francisco,  on  the  Southern 
Pacific,  one  reaches  such  places  as  Boulder  Creek  and  Brook- 
dale,  in  the  rugged  Santa  Cruz  mountains. 

New  regions  have  recently  been  opened  to  the  hunter 
and  angler  by  the  construction  of  the  Western  Pacific  rail- 
road. On  this  line  one  can  get  directly  at  the  Big  Meadows 
country,  on  the  north  fork  of  the  Feather  river,  in  Plumas 
county.  The  Feather  is  a  magnificent  stream,  broad  and  full, 
carrying  the  largest  low  water  flow  of  any  of  the  streams  of 
Central  California. 


sports 


237 


LAKE   TAHOE  AND  THE   SIERRA,   FROM   UT.    TALLAf. 

Lake  Tahoe  is  within  easy  reach  of  San  Francisco.  One  can 
leave  the  city  at  night  and  be  there  next  morning.  Its  half-mile 
sapphire  depths  hide  big  ones.  Boats  and  launches  can  be 
had  at  the  Tavern  or  at  Tallac,  the  largest  two  resorts,  both 
very  comfortable.  Here  are  rainbow.  Loch  Levin,  great  Mack- 
inaw, and  other  fighting  breeds.  There  are  many  resorts  on 
the  lake,  besides  those  we  have  mentioned,  such  as  Homewood, 
McKinney's,  Moana  Villa,  Emerald  Bay,  with  a  good  camp 
and  near  the  deepest  part  of  the  lake;  Al-Tahoe,  Bijou,  the 
Grove,  Lakeside  Park,  Glenbrook,  Brockway,  Tahoe  Vista, 
Carnelian  Bay,  and  others.  Rubicon  Springs  are  easily  reached 
by  stage  from  McKinney's,  and  the  fishing  nearby  is  excellent. 
All  of  them  have  boats. 

Fallen  Leaf  Lake  is  but  three  or  four  miles  from  Tallac, 
and  the  trolling  here  is  good.  A  stage  leaves  Tallac  for  this 
place  just  after  lunch.     Another  leaves  about  the  same  time  for 

Clen   Alpine  Springs,   about   seven   miles   from   the   Tallac 


238  Handbook  for  San   Francisco 

house  and  around  the  shoulder  of  Ml.  Tallac.  Forty-six  lakes 
lie  within  a  six-mile  radius  of  the  springs.  On  nine  of  them 
the  hotel  camp  keeps  boats  for  its  guests. 

The  Truckee  river  tears  its  way  out  of  Tahoe,  and  its 
riffles  hide  fine  fighters.  It  is  a  stream  for  experts  and  much 
cf  it  is  preserved,  but  there  are  some  good  reaches  that  are  still 
open. 

Then  there  are  Hetch  Hetchy  and  the  Tuolumne  Meadows, 
the  streams  above  Yosemite  valley,  the  Merced  river  in  the 
valley  itself,  but  the  fishing  here  is  a  hard  proposition.  The 
Kern,  King's  River  and  Kaweah  canyons,  and  as  many  more 
as  you  care  to  try,  leading  into  the  fastnesses  of  the  high 
Sierra,  amid  the  most  beautiful  and  wonderful  scenery  in 
North  America. 

And  so  the  story  goes,  north,  south  and  east,  with  the  ocean 
to  the  west,  and  with  San  Francisco  a  hub  from  which  radiate 
transportation  lines  in  every  direction  to  the  finest  fields  of  sport 
on  the  continent.  In  a  work  of  this  size  we  can  not  undertake 
to  describe,  or  even  locate,  all  the  places  where  delight  awaits 
the  angler  and  big  game  targets  await  the  hunter,  but  inquiry 
at  the  railroad  ticket  offices  and  some  vigilance  around  the 
sporting  goods  houses,  which  continually  receive  advices  from 
the  railroad  station  agents,  will  serve  to  inform  any  intelligent 
person  about  facilities  and  accommodations.  The  Southern 
Pacific  offices  are  at  834  Market,  Palace  Hotel,  Third  and 
Townsend  depot;  the  Northwestern  Pacific  at  874  Market;  the 
Santa  Fe  at  673  Market;  the  Western  Pacific  at  665  Market, 
all  of  them  have  offices  and  information  bureaus  at  the  Ferry. 

FLY  CASTING. 

In  this  sport  San  Francisco  stands  supreme,  with  records  that 
have  never  been  approached.  The  organization  that  conducts 
the  events  is  the  San  Francisco  Fly  Casting  Club,  which  has 
a  club  house  at  Stow  Lake,  in  Golden  Gate  Park,  and  a  fish- 
ing lodge  on  the  Truckee  river  about  three  miles  west  of  Boca, 
where  it  owns  two  miles  of  river  bank.     Grover  Cleveland  was 


Sports  239 

a  member  of  this  organization,  and  Dr.  Henry  Van  Dyke  of 
Princeton  belongs  to  it.  The  present  secretary  is  Paul  M.  Nip- 
pert,  Mills  building.  Bush  and  Montgomery  streets.  The  presi- 
dent is  F.  J.  Cooper.  The  membership  includes  many  of  the 
leading  men  of  the  community,  in  business  and  the  professions. 

Contests  at  casting  the  fly  and  the  half-ounce  lure  occur  on 
alternate  Saturdays  and  following  Sundays  at  Stow  Lake,  in 
Golden  Gate  Park,  from  March  to  November,  and  the  per- 
formances here  are  so  remarkable  that  they  have  made  this  bit 
of  water  famous  among  anglers  all  over  the  world.  The  events 
occur  at  2:30  p.  m.,  on  Saturdays  and  10:30  a.  m.,  on  Sun- 
days, at  a  concrete  pier  constructed  by  the  park  commissioners 
especially  for  this  use.     Visitmg  anglers  are  welcome. 

The  world's  record  for  single  handed  fly-casting  with  a 
heavy  rod,  in  open  tournament,  is  1  34  feet,  made  by  Walter 
D.  Mansfield  of  San  Francisco  at  Stow  Lake  in  1902.  Since 
then,  in  club  contests,  H.  C.  Golcher  of  San  Francisco  cast 
140  feet,  T.  W.  Brotherton  of  San  Francisco  137,  J.  B. 
Kenniff  of  San  Francisco  1 35 ;  and  Walter  D.  Mansfield 
in  a  record  exhibition  made  a  cast  of  I  44.  The  nearest  ap- 
proach to  these  marks  is  1  20  feet,  made  at  Chicago. 

With  the  light  rod,  the  record  is  held  by  Mansfield  of  San 
Francisco,  at  1 29  feet,  6  inches,  the  next  best  cast  being  1  1 4 
feet,  made  in  Chicago.  These  records  have  never  been  ap- 
proached in  Europe. 

The  San  Francisco  Fly  Casting  Club  is  a  member  of  the 
National  Association  of  Scientific  Angling  Clubs,  and  its 
records  are  recognized  throughout  the  world.  Its  membership 
is  limited  to  1  00,  and  the  number  is  always  complete. 

HUNTING. 

The  law  imposes  a  hunting  license  fee  of  $1  a  year  on  resi- 
dents of  California,  $10  a  year  on  citizens  not  residing  in  the 
State,  and  $25  a  year  on  aliens.  If  the  $1  license  is  what  you 
require  you  can  buy  it  at  any  first  class  sporting  goods  shop  in 
the  city.     The  others  must  be  obtained  from  the  county  clerk 


240  Handbook   for  San   Francisco  \ 

or  at  the  office  of  the  Fish  and  Game  Commission,  in  the  Mills 
building,  corner  of  Bush  and  Montgomery  streets. 

The  sporting  goods  houses  and  railroad  offices  can  supply      | 
definite  directions  for  getting  at  the  game — ducks,  quail,  snipe, 
geese,  deer,  bear  and  panther.  I 

HORSEBACK   RIDING.  ! 

Saddle  horses  for  riding  in  the  Park  or  elsewhere  about  the 
city  can   be  obtained    from  the   Hulda  Stables,   at    1530   Fell       ' 
street,  the  Park  Riding  Academy,  2934  Fulton  street,  or  the 
Riding  and  Driving  Club,  at  701   Seventh  avenue.     There  are       ; 
delightful    rides    down    toward    Ingleside,    and   to    the    Crystal 
Lakes  and  Lake  Pilarcitos,  in  San  Mateo  county. 

BASEBALL.  i 

i 

At  Recreation  Park,  Fifteenth  and  Valencia  streets.  ' 

Valencia  slreet  car.  Line  No.  9,  or  Eighteenth  &  Park  Line,  \ 
(no  number.) 

Reserved  seats  for  Sundays  and  holidays  may  be  secured  at       | 
884  Market  street  up  to  1   o'clock  of  the  day  of  the  game;  or 
at  Recreation  Park,  in  person  or  by  telephone.     Advance  res- 
ervation may  be  made  for  Sunday  and  holiday  games.     Only       j 
box  seats  are  reserved  on  week  days.      The  prices  are:  ' 

Bleachers,  25  cents.      Grand  stand,  box  seats,   75  cents  on 
week  days  and   $1    on  Sundays  and  holidays.      Grand  stand 
general  admission,  on  week  days  50  cents;  Sundays  and  holi- 
days   (all    seats   reserved),    first    four   rows,    opera   chairs,    75       j 
cents;  all  other  seats  50  cents. 

The  local  ball  park  will  seat  over   12,000  people.  I 

Owing  to  the  climate,  the  coast  schedule  is  the  longest  in  or- 
ganized  baseball.      It   begins   about  April    1st,    and   runs   until        | 
laic   in   October,    a   period   of    30   weeks,    or  practically   seven 
months.  I 

The  schedule  calls  for  baseball  five  days  of  the  week  in  San  i 
Francisco:  Tuesday,  Wednesday,  Friday,  Saturday  and  Sun-  j 
day   afternoons.      There   is   no   game   on   Monday.      On   Sat- 

I 


sports  241 

urdays,  Sundays  and  holidays  game  begins  at  2:30  p.  m. ;  on 
Tuesdays,  Wednesdays  and  Fridays  at  3  o'clock.  On  Thurs- 
day afternoons  and  Sunday  mornings  the  teams  journey  to  Oak- 
land. 

The  Pacific  Coast  Baseball  League  is  composed  of  six 
teams:  San  Francisco,  Oakland,  Los  Angeles,  Portland,  Sac- 
ramento and  Venice. 

The  Oaf(land  Baseball  Parlf  is  located  at  San  Pablo  and 
Park  avenues,  Emeryville. 

Ta}^e  Key  system  ferry  and  Piedmont  train  at  the  mole,  to 
Fortieth  street  and  San  Pablo  avenues,  and  Wall^  three  blocks 
north. 

Here  ball  is  played,  durmg  the  season,  at  3:1  5  p.  m.,  Thurs- 
days, and  10:10  a.  m.  on  Sundays  and  holidays.  Bleacher 
seats  are  25  cents,  grand  stand  50  and  75  cents,  box  seats 
75  cents  and  $  I .  The  grand  stand  here  is  a  modern  and  very 
fine  structure. 

On  the  nine  diamonds  in  Golden  Gate  Park  one  can  see  as 
many  amateur  games  going  on  continuously,  all  day  of  a  Sun- 
day; and  many  other  amateur  teams  use  the  play-ground  dia- 
monds at  various  points  about  the  city. 

FOOTBALL. 

The  English  Rugby  game  is  played  between  the  fifteens  of 
the  University  of  California  and  Leiand  Stanford  Junior  Uni- 
versity, and  the  annual  contest  of  the  two  institutions  is  the 
main  football  event  of  the  Coast.  It  takes  place  in  November; 
at  Berkeley,  on  California  Field,  in  even-numbered  years,  and 
at  Palo  Alto,  on  Stanford  Field,  in  the  odd-numbered  ones. 
The  rivalry  has  continued  for  2 1  years,  having  begun  in  1  89 1 , 
and  the  total  score  of  all  games  played  since  then  stands 
(1913)   at   198  for  CaHfornia  and   195   for  Stanford. 

The  English  Rugby  game  was  mtroduced  m  1 906,  and 
speedily  supplanted  the  early  form  of  the  sport  in  popular 
favor.  It  had  the  further  advantage  of  uniting  the  interests 
of  the  football  men  of  the  Coast  and  those  of  Australia  and 


242  Handbook   for  San    Francisco 

New  Zealand.  The  California  Rugby  Union  now  embraces 
all  teams  playing  English  Rugby  on  the  Coast.  Last  year 
this  organization  imported  the  Australian  "Waratah"  team, 
which  defeated  an  All-America  fifteen.  In  1 909  the  Aus- 
tralian "Wallaby"  team  was  brought  over,  and  next  season  a 
team  will  come  here  from  New  Zealand. 

"Soccer,"  or  association  football,  which  in  England  corre- 
sponds in  interest  and  mode  of  organization  to  our  professional 
baseball,  is  a  summer  game  in  the  East,  but  is  played  straight 
through  the  winter  in  San  Francisco,  and  under  conditions  that 
impose  the  most  rigid  principles  of  clean  amateur  sport.  When 
snow  and  ice  in  other  parts  of  the  country  have  put  an  end  to 
almost  all  outdoor  games,  winter  football  can  be  seen  at  2:30 
every  Sunday,  rain  or  shine,  at  the  Ocean  shore  grounds  at 
Mission  and  Twelfth  streets,  which  can  be  reached  by  taking 
an])  Mission  street  car,  or  MarJ^et  street  car  to  Twelfth  and 
Walking  a  block  south.  Games  in  which  a  university  team 
participates  occur  on  Saturday,  at  the  same  time.  Women 
and  children  under  14  are  admitted  free.     Others  pay  25  cents. 

CRICKET. 

Cricket  games  are  played  between  teams  of  the  California 
Cricket  Association  every  Sunday  afternoon,  beginning  at  1 
o'clock,  from  early  May  to  the  end  of  September,  at  the 
Stadium  in  Golden  Gate  Park,  and  at  CroH's  grounds  in 
Alameda.     To  reach  the  Alameda  grounds 

Take  the  Southern  Pacific  Ferry  from  the  foot  of  Market 
street  to  Alameda  Pier,  and  the  High  street  train  from  there  to 
Webster  street  station. 

The  Association  consists  of  four  teams:  The  Wanderers, 
the  Barbarians,  the  Golden  Gates  and  the  Alameda.  A  chal- 
lenge cup  goes  to  the  winner  of  the  year's  series.  Visiting 
cricketers  are  always  welcome. 

TRACK   AND    FIELD   ATHLETICS. 
There  is  no  season  when  sports  afield  can  not  be  enjoyed  in 
San  Francisco  and  the  vicinity,  as  there  is  almost  no  weather, 


sports  243 

at  any  time  of  the  year,  that  seriously  interferes  with  them. 
Athletic  organization  embraces  the  grammar  schools  and  even 
the  Sabbath  schools. 

The  governing  body  for  California,  north  of  Tehachapi  and 
Nevada,  under  whose  sanction  all  regular  events  are  held,  is 
the  Pacific  Association  of  the  Amateur  Athletic  Union  of  the 
United  States;  the  president  is  John  Elliott,  42  Clay  street, 
San  Francisco,  and  the  secretary  Herbert  Hauser,  4 1  0  Mont- 
gomery street.  San  Francisco  grammar  schools,  high  schools 
all  over  Northern  California,  the  local  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  the 
National  Guard,  all  the  universities  and  colleges  around  the 
bay,  and  the  University  of  Nevada  are  represented  in  it  and 
are  part  of  it. 

The  universities  take  the  lead  in  interest,  although  the  Olym- 
pic, the  Barbarian  and  the  Pastime  Clubs  push  them  close. 
Outdoor  events  begin  in  March  and  continue  until  October, 
and  are  held  in  the  Stadium  at  Golden  Gate  Park,  on  the 
University  of  California  Oval,  at  St.  Ignatius  College,  St. 
Mary's  College,  the  University  of  Santa  Clara,  or  the  athletic 
field  of  Stanford  University.  The  Stadium  in  Golden  Gate 
Park  is  one  of  the  finest  and  most  completely  equipped  athletic 
fields  in  the  world,  and  the  field  at  Stanford  is  very  fine  also. 
Each  has  a  220-yard  stralght-away.  For  locations  and  meth- 
ods of  reaching  these  places  see  the  index. 

The  Recreation  League  of  San  Francisco,  with  its  office  in 
the  Phelan  building.  Market  and  O'Farrell  streets,  does  a  great 
deal  to  promote  a  healthy  interest  in  outdoor  sports  of  all  kinds. 
The  secretary  is  James  E.  Rogers. 

A  San  Franciscan,  Mr.  William  Unmack,  has  been  asked 
by  the  Amateur  Athletic  Union  of  the  United  States  to  take 
an  All-Amerlcan  track  team  to  Australia  and  New  Zealand 
for  the  antipodean  summer  1913  to  1914. 

YACHTING. 

The  Bay  of  San  Francisco  is  a  matchless  sheet  of  water 
for  all  aquatic  sports.     It  has  an  area  of  420  square  miles,  of 


244 


Handbool^  for  San  Francisco 


r  \\1  AI.I'MS, 


j.(Hii\iN(;  n\Ki;  -nil:  |■.A^  i 
which  there  is  a  space  of  1  90  square  miles  that  is  over  30  feet 
deep.  It  offers  fine  saiHng  courses,  and  there  is  so  much  of 
good  brisk  breeze  through  the  summer  that  San  Francisco 
boats  have  about  half  the  sail  plan  of  those  on  the  Atlantic 
Coast. 

Landward  are  several  good  sloughs  or  creeks,  navigable  for 
pleasure  craft,  and  the  mouths  of  two  great  rivers,  the  Sacra- 
mento and  the  San  Joaquin.  The  rivers  are  beautiful  to  travel 
and  give  access  to   most  interesting  country.      At  an  ordinary 


sports  245 

stage  of  water  a  boat  drawing  seven  feet  can  go  as  far  as  Sac- 
ramento on  the  Sacramento  river,  or  Stockton  on  the  San  Joa- 
quin, and  every  foot  of  the  way  is  full  of  charm  and  interest. 

But  this  is  only  the  beginning.  "Outside"  is  the  blue  Pa- 
cific, inviting  bay  yachtsmen  for  cruises  to  Bolinas  and  Drake's 
bays  on  the  north,  and  down  the  coast  to  Monterey  bay,  85 
miles  to  the  southward,  where  are  the  pleasant  resorts  of  Santa 
Cruz,  Monterey  and  Pacific  Grove.  On  such  a  cruise  one  gets 
the  finest  of  sea  fishing.  If  one  has  a  stanch  boat  and  good 
crew  he  is  not  limited  even  to  coastmg,  for  Honolulu  calls  with 
its  tropical  allurements.  This  is  a  cruise  that  can  be  made  in 
fifteen  days  from  San  Francisco,  with  the  greatest  comfort  at 
almost  any  season  of  the  year.  An  eastern  yachtsman  who 
had  brought  his  boat  around  could  not  do  better  than  return 
by  way  of  Honolulu  and  the  Panama  Canal ;  or  keep  on  from 
Honolulu  to  the  Samoan  islands,  the  Philippines  and  China. 

It  was  from  San  Francisco  Bay  that  Robert  Louis  Stevenson 
departed  in  the  yacht  "Casco"  on  the  South  Sea  voyage  that 
took  him  to  Samoa,  and  it  was  from  this  port  that  Jack  London 
set  sail  on  the  "Snark." 

A  line  addressed  to  the  secretary  of  either  the  San  Francisco 
or  the  Corinthian  Yacht  Club  will  put  a  stranger  in  touch  with 
the  yachting  situation ;  when,  if  he  has  letters  from  the  East, 
navigation  will  be  made  easy  for  him. 

The  San  Francisco  Yacht  Club  has  its  club  house  at  Sausa- 
lito,  which  can  be  reached  from  the  Ferry  building  at  the  foot 
of  Market  street  by  ferry  boats  running  half  hourly  during  the 
early  and  late  hours,  and  hourly  during  the  middle  of  the  day. 
It  has  a  spacious  anchorage,  and  all  facilities.  A  steam  yacht 
of  any  size  can  come  alongside  the  float,  and  there  are  cranes 
to  handle  heavy  material. 

The  Sausalito  Yacht  Club  has  its  headquarters  and  club 
house  at  Sausalito. 

The  Corinthian  Yacht  Club  has  its  club  house  at  Tiburon, 
reached  by  an  hourly  ferry  boat  from  Sausalito.  Many  power 
boats  are  represented  in  this  organization. 


246  Handbooff   for  San   Francisco 

The  Aeolian  Yacht  Club  and  the  Encinal  Yacht  Club  are 
both  located  at  Alameda,  which  is  reached  from  the  Ferry 
building,  foot  of  Market  street. 

The  South  Bav  Yacht  Club  is  at  Alviso. 

The  Vallejo  Yacht  Club  is  situated  at  the  town  of  that 
name,  just  above  San  Pablo  Bay. 

The  Pacific  Motor  Boat  Club  is  one  of  the  big  factors  in 
motor  boating  on  the  coast.  Its  club  house  is  at  Belvedere, 
Marin  county. 

In  Oakland  are  the  California  Yacht  Club,  and  the  Oak- 
land Yacht  and  Motor  Boat  Club. 

ROWING. 

Eight-oar  shell  races  occur  between  crews  of  Stanford  Uni- 
versity, the  University  of  California  and  Washington  Uni- 
versity in  the  Oakland  estuary  annually,  some  time  during  the 
month  of  June.  To  reach  the  estuary  take  the  Southern  Pa- 
cific ferry  to  Alameda  Pier,  whence  there  is  good  walking 
along  the  mole  to  the  finish.  This  is  the  main  rowing  event  of 
the  year  in  the  vicinity  of  San  Francisco. 

The  Alameda  Rofping  Club  of  Alameda,  and  the  South 
End  Roiving  and  Boating,  the  Ariel  Rowing  and  Boating, 
and  the  Dolphin  Swimming  and  Boating  Clubs  of  San  Fran- 
cisco form  the  Pacific  Association  of  Amateur  Oarsmen,  which 
holds  a  rowing  regatta,  with  four-oared  barge  races  and  skiff 
races,  every  Fourth  of  July,  at  Black  Point  Cove,  near  Fort 
Mason.  The  three  clubs  last  named  have  club  houses  there, 
and  San  Francisco's  swimming,  boating  and  other  aquatic 
events  occur  along  this  bit  of  water. 

Hyde  street  cars  will  take  vou  to  Black  Point  Cove. 

Persons  fond  of  rowing  will  find  good  boats  at  the  boat 
house  on  Stow  Lake,  in  Golden  Gate  Park. 

GOLF. 

Cool,  rainless  summers,  and  winters  without  snow,  with 
reliable  stretches  of  dry  weather  and  clear  skies,  make  San  Fran- 
cisco and  its  environs  ideal  for  this  sport.     There  are  fine  links 


sports  247 

in  the  vicinity,  laid  out  by  experts,  and  where  they  belong  to 
clubs  the  visitor  needs  only  some  member  to  put  him  up,  in 
order  to  enjoy  the  game.  The  following  are  some  of  the 
best  courses,  either  in  the  city  or  at  such  distance  that  one 
can  go  and  return  in  a  day  or  two: 

Municipal  Course  in  Lincoln  Park,  >San  Francisco.  Sit- 
uated on  bluffs  overlooking  the  Golden  Gate.  The  course  is 
six  holes,  northerly,  with  a  possibility  of  nine  by  playing  west- 
ward from  the  northerly  green  toward  Land's  End.  Open 
to  all  and  no  fees  required. 

Presidio  Coif  Course.  Just  within  the  Presidio  of  San 
Francisco,  to  the  left  of  the  First  avenue  entrance.  An 
eighteen-hole  course,  and  one  of  the  finest  in  the  State.  Main- 
tained by  the  United  States  Army.  Used  by  the  United 
Service  Golf  Club,  and  by  the  Presidio  Golf  Club.  The  head- 
quarters of  the  latter  are  at  8  Presidio  Terrace. 

Ingleside  Golf  and  Country  Club.  This  is  an  18-hoIe 
course,  on  sandy  soil,  and  in  winter  is  like  the  eastern  courses 
at  their  best. 

Burlingame  Country;  Club.  Near  Burlingame,  16  miles 
down  the  San  Francisco  Peninsula ;  about  3 1  minutes  on  the 
Southern  Pacific  railroad  from  Third  and  Townsend  depot. 
An  18-hole  course,  delightfully  situated. 

Beresford  Count})  Club.  Near  San  Mateo,  I  8  miles  down 
the  peninsula,  just  beyond  Burlingame,  and  reached  in  the 
same  way.  The  links  are  but  a  year  old,  but  when  complete 
will  be  one  of  the  best  1 8-hole  courses  in  the  country,  and 
the  longest  near  San  Francisco. 

Menlo  Country  Club.  At  Menlo  Park,  29  miles  down 
the  peninsula,  on  Southern  Pacific.  The  course  now  consists 
of  nine  holes,  but  will  shortly  be  doubled. 

Santa  Cruz.  Situated  on  Monterey  Bay,  76  miles  south 
of  San  Francisco,  on  Southern  Pacific.  Links  are  full  cham- 
pionship length,  6200  yards,  18  holes.  Open  to  all  guests  of 
the  Casa  del  Rey  hotel  at  Santa  Cruz,  and  to  others  on  pay- 
ment of  a  green-fee. 


248  Handbook   for   San.  Francisco 

Del  Monte.  Near  historic  Monterey,  and  about  1  2  1  miles 
from  San  Francisco,  on  Southern  Pacific.  No  cards  or  intro- 
duction necessary.  The  hnks,  within  a  five-minute  walk  of 
the  hotel,  are  the  scene  of  the  annual  Pacific  Coast  Cham- 
pionship contests.  The  course  is  1  8  holes,  full  championship, 
6300  yards,  with  fine  putting  greens. 

San  Jose  Country  Club  and  Coif  Links.  Linda  Vista 
district,  six  miles  east  of  San  Jose.  Eighteen  holes,  6200  yards. 
An  excellent  course,  with  a  beautiful  outlook. 

Claremont  Country  Club.  Across  the  bay,  in  Oakland.  An 
1 8-hole  course,  on  soil  of  the  typical  inland  California  sort. 
Take  Key  system  ferry  and  Fortieth  street  train;  Broadrvay  car 
north. 

Marin  County  Country  Club.  Near  San  Rafael,  1  5  miles 
north  of  San  Francisco,  on  the  Northwestern  Pacific.  There  is 
a  9-hole  course,  in  beautiful  surroundings,  with  the  additional 
attraction  of  a  salt  water  plunge. 

HANDBALL. 

There  are  six  free  handball  courts  in  Golden  Gate  Park, 
directly  south  of  the  Francis  Scott  Key  monument.  Handball 
courts  are  also  found  in  most  of  the  athletic  gymnasiums,  like 
that  of  the  Olympic  Club. 

TENNIS. 

This  is  an  all-year-round  sport  in  San  Francisco,  where 
the  summers  are  never  too  warm  nor  the  wmters  too  cold  for 
brisk  work  at  the  nets.  As  a  result  this  city  takes  the  lead 
at  expert  play,  and  produces  champions  in  numbers. 

Maurice  E.  McLaughlin  of  San  Francisco  is  (1913)  the 
champion  of  the  United  States  in  the  singles  class,  having  won 
the  title  at  Newport,  R.  L,  in  August,  1912.  With  Thomas 
C.  Bundy  of  Los  Angeles  he  also  won  the  doubles  cham- 
pionship in  the  same  tournament.  Carlton  R.  Gardner  of 
San  Francisco  is  champion  of  the  Orient,  havmg  won  that 
title  at  Manila.      Two  other  San  Franciscans,  William  John- 


Sports  249 

ston  and  Elia  Fottrell,  are  champions  of  the  Northwest  in 
the  doubles  class.  In  all,  four  San  Francisco  men  are  among 
the  ten  best  players  in  the  United  States.  Miss  Hazel  Hotch- 
kiss  of  Berkeley  was  the  women's  champion  of  the  United 
States  at  both  singles  and  doubles  in  1910,  1911   and  1912. 

Dr.  Sumner  Hardy  of  San  Francisco  is  president  of  the 
Pacific  States  Lawn  Tennis  Association,  a  confederation  of 
clubs  in  California,  Oregon  and  Washington. 

The  principal  tennis  clubs  in  this  city  are  the  California 
Lawn  Tennis  Club,  and  the  Golden  Gate  Lawn  Tennis  Club ; 
but  one  does  not  have  to  belong  to  a  club  to  enjoy  the 
sport  to  the  full,  for  there  are  courts  in  Golden  Gate  Park 
and  many  of  the  city  squares  that  are  open  to  any  well- 
behaved  person. 

The  California  Tennis  Club's  five  asphaltum  courts  are 
at  the  southwest  corner  of  Scott  and  Bush  streets,  where 
visiting  players  with  proper  credentials  are  always  made  wel- 
come. 

The  Golden  Gate  Club  holds  its  matches  on  the  courts  in 
Golden  Gate  Park. 

There  are  about  a  dozen  courts  in  the  park,  toward  the 
east  end  and  just  south  of  Favorite  point,  where  the  Middle 
Drive  meets  the  Main  Drive.     They  are  free  to  all. 

In  addition  there  are  other  courts  in  Alta  Plaza,  between 
Scott  and  Steiner,  and  Jackson  and  Clay  streets ;  Mission 
Park,  between  Eighteenth  and  Twentieth,  and  Dolores  and 
Church  streets ;  in  Lafayette  Square,  between  Laguna  and 
Gough,  and  Washington  and  Sacramento  streets;  and  in  Holly 
Park,  which  would  be  at  the  crossing  of  Highland  and  Bocana 
avenues,  in  the  southern  part  of  the  city.  These  are  all  public 
squares,  under  the  administrative  control  of  the  Park  Com- 
missioners, and  the  use  of  the  tennis  courts  in  them  is  free. 

Some  fine  matches  are  played  on  the  public  courts,  espe- 
cially in  Golden  Gate  Park,  but  coast  championship  games 
are  usually  played  at  the  Hotel  Del  Monte,  on  the  Bay  of 
Monterey,  just  east  of  the  town  of  that  name. 


250  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

POLO. 

This  is  a  winter  game  in  California,  the  season  running 
from  November  to  May.  Some  of  the  best  contests  occur 
when  Eastern  fields  are  covered  with  snow.  In  fact,  the  same 
climatic  conditions  that  foster  all  kinds  of  outdoor  sport  near 
San  Francisco,  make  the  vicinity  ideal  for  polo — so  much 
so  that  at  San  Mateo,  less  than  twenty  miles  down  the 
peninsula,  there  are  three  fine  polo  fields  within  a  two-mile 
radius.  All  these  can  be  reached  easily  from  San  Mateo, 
which  is  accessible  either  by  the  Southern  Pacific  from  Third 
and  Townsend  depot,  or  by  the  electric  car  starting  from 
Fifth  and  Market  streets. 

Two  of  these  fields  are  on  the  private  estates  of  Francis  J. 
Carolan  and  Charles  W.  Clark.  The  Carolan,  or  "Cross- 
way,"  field  is  about  three  blocks  easterly  from  Burlingame 
depot,  the  last  stop  on  the  Southern  Pacific  before  San  Mateo. 
The  Clark  field  is  just  across  El  Camino  Real,  about  a  block 
west  of  the  Hotel  Peninsula.  The  San  Mateo  Polo  Club  has 
its  field  and  club  house  at  El  Cerrito  Park,  Hillsboro,  about 
ten  minutes'  walk  westward  of  the  depot  at  San  Mateo,  and 
about  fifteen  minutes'  walk  from  the  hotel. 

The  three  fields  are  on  soils  of  different  character,  and 
their  proximity  to  one  another  makes  it  possible  to  find  good 
conditions  in  any  weather.     They  are  generally  used  in  rotation. 

The  game  is  now  well  organized  under  the  auspices  of  the 
San  Mateo  Polo  Club,  formed  in  1 906,  and  play  is  con- 
tinuous through  the  season,  which  begins  Nov.  1  and  lasts 
until  May  I .  There  are  three  teams  of  this  organization  in 
the  field.  The  members  practice  during  the  week ;  and  on 
Saturdays  and  Sundays,  at  3  p.  m.,  there  are  regular  mem- 
bers' games.  The  club  house  premises  are  reserved  for  mem- 
bers and  their  guests.  The  public  grand  stands  seat  about 
three  thousand,  and  parking  space  is  provided  for  autos. 

At  intervals,  especially  on  holidays,  there  are  hard  match 
games,  well  worth  a  trip  to  this  beautiful  locality  to  witness. 


sports  251 

The  annual  tournament  is  held  in  February  and  as  the 
incidental  expenses  are  heavy,  an  admittance  fee  of  twenty-five 
and  fifty  cents  is  charged  for  these  events.  During  the  spring 
of  1912  teams  participated  that  had  come  from  Los  Angeles, 
Santa  Barbara,  Canada  and  England.  In  1  9 1  3  the  Honolulu 
team  played  here. 

Polo  players  from  a  distance  wishing  to  participate  should 
communicate  with  the  San  Mateo  Polo  Club,  San  Mateo, 
California.  Accommodations  can  be  had  at  the  Peninsula 
Hotel,  which  is  open  throughout  the  season. 

A  member  of  the  club  pays  an  entrance  fee  of  twenty-five 
dollars  on  joining,  and  five  dollars  a  month  thereafter.  Dues 
for  non-resident  members  are  five  dollars  per  quarter,  which 
entitles  them  to  all  the  privileges  of  the  club  when  residing  in 
San  Mateo.     Player's  fee  for  the  season  is  fifty  dollars. 

gentlemen's  driving  clubs. 

That  typical  American  sporting  event,  the  trotting  race  in 
harness,  can  be  seen  almost  any  fair  Saturday  or  Sunday 
afternoon,  beginning  about  12:30  p.  m.,  during  the  season 
from  May  to  November,  at  the  Stadium  in  Golden  Gate 
Park,  under  the  best  amateur  conditions.  There  is  no  admit- 
tance fee. 

The  San  Francisco  Driving  Club,  an  organization  of  about 
125  members,  holds  its  race  meets  at  the  Stadium  on  alter- 
nate Sundays.  Half  a  dozen  races  are  likely  to  occur.  This 
is  one  of  the  principal  driving  clubs  of  the  State.  Its  meets 
alternate  with  those  of  the  California  Driving  Club,  so  that 
the  race  track  is  in  use  every  Sunday. 

The  Park  Amateur  Driving  Club  holds  race  meets,  with 
from  twelve  to  twenty  horses  entered,  at  the  Stadium  on 
alternate  Saturday  afternoons  during  the  summer. 

BOWLING    ON    THE    GREEN. 
This   pleasant   sport   is   pursued   on   the    Bowling   Green   in 
Golden  Gate  Park  all  the  year  round  by  members  of  the  San 
Francisco  Scottish  Bowling  Club,  on  Wednesdays,  Saturdays 


252  Handbook   for   San    Francisco 

and  holidays.      Many  tournaments,  for  prizes,  are  held  during 
the  summer. 

RIFLE   AND    REN'OLVER   SHOOTING. 

The  San  Francisco  Scheutzen  Verein,  organized  m  1858, 
shoots  at  Shellmound  Park,  Emeryville,  on  the  Southern 
Pacific  ferry  and  suburban  line,  every  Sunday  the  year  around. 
Several  clubs  shoot  at  this  park,  and  almost  any  of  them  is 
glad  of  the  participation  of  visitors  interested  in  the  sport. 
On  Tuesday  evening  there  is  indoor  revolver  shooting  at  the 
same  place,  and  on  Thursday  evening  indoor  rifle  shooting. 
To  reach  Shellmound  Park, 

Taf^e  California  loop  train,  connecting  at  Oakland  pier  rvith 
Southern  Pacific  ferry  from  the  foot  of  Market  street. 

The  California  Scheutzen  Club  owns  a  park  near  San 
Rafael,  in  Marin  county,  on  the  Northwestern  Pacific,  and 
meets  there  on  the  first  and  third  Sundays  of  the  month. 

There  has  recently  been  organized  the  Panama-Pacific  In- 
ternational Shooting  Association,  which  will  hold  a  great  in- 
ternational shooting   festival  during  the  exposition  in    1915. 

TRAP   SHOOTING. 

Over  200,000  blue  rocks  are  smashed  every  year  by  the 
trap  shooters  of  San  Francisco — more,  it  is  said,  than  in 
any  other  city  in  the  country.  Trap  shooting  occurs  at  the 
grounds  of  the  Golden  Gate  Gun  Club,  Webster  street  and 
Atlantic  avenue,  Alameda,  on  Saturdays  from  1  to  5  p.  m., 
and  all  day  on  Sunday. 

Take  Southern  Pacific  ferry  to  Alameda  mole,  and  "Lin- 
coln Loop''  train  to  Webster  street  station,  and  Walk  north 
about  six  blocks. 

Any  one  living  within  fifty  miles  is  eligible  to  join.  Visitors 
from  a  greater  distance  pay  a  small  charge  for  trapping  targets. 
All  standard  loads  can  be  bought  at  the  grounds.  If  a  visitor 
has  no  gun  one  will  be  found  for  him. 

Visiting  railroad  men  will  find  the  Traffic  Gun  Club  shoot- 
ing here  on  the  first  Saturday  in  the  month. 


sports  253 

MOUNTAINEERING   FROM   SAN    FRANCISCO. 

Within  easy  reach  of  this  city  is  one  of  the  great  mountain 
ranges  of  the  world,  the  Sierra  Nevadas,  with  higher  peaks 
than  the  American  Rockies,  and  stretches  of  scenery  not  sur- 
passed by  that  of  the  Alps.  There  are  many  peaks  over 
12,000  feet  in  height,  and  two,  Shasta  and  Whitney;  over 
1 4,000.  There  are  beautiful  lakes  and  meadows,  wonder- 
fully prolific  trout  streams,  and  great  forests  of  the  Sequoia 
Gigantea,  the  Big  Trees  of  California,  the  largest  living  organ- 
isms and  to  be  found  nowhere  else. 

Added  to  these  attractions  is  the  superlative  one  of  fine 
climate.  No  other  mountain  region  has  such  reliable  weather. 
It  is  so  free  from  storms,  and  offers  such  a  succession  of 
opportunities  for  travel  throughout  the  long  summers  that  the 
Sierra  Club,  the  leader  in  organized  mountaineering  in  Cali- 
fornia, conducts  its  summer  outmgs  without  tents — a  great 
advantage  in  respect  to  the  twin  problems  of  transportation  and 
economy. 

San  Francisco  is  the  best  place  from  which  to  seek  the 
thrilling  experiences  of  the  California  mountains.  The  Sierra 
are  readily  acessible  from  here,  by  railroad,  to  places  well  into 
the  middle  altitudes.  In  this  city  can  be  obtained  the  most 
authentic  and  complete  information  on  the  subject  from  the 
officers  of  the  Sierra  Club,  and  from  its  library,  which  can 
be  found  by  consulting  the  index. 


ROUND  ABOUT  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

In  the  following  pages  we  have  endeavored  to  give  some 
idea  of  what  may  be  done  by  a  visitor  that  has  but  a  few 
days  at  his  disposal,  to  see  some  of  the  best  and  most  char- 
acteristic parts  of  California,  lying  close  to  this  city. 

Everywhere  it  is  a  land  of  beauty  and  of  charm.  Many  of 
the  most  attractive  localities  are  within  a  day's  journey  of 
San  Francisco,  and  others  can  be  visited  on  a  trip  of  two  or 
three  days. 


254  Handbook   for  San   Francisco 

A  traveler  that  has  the  time  should  not  neglect  the  romantic 
Mt.  Shasta  region,  through  the  upper  Sacramento  Valley  by 
the  Shasta  route  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Company,  nor  the 
wonderful  Feather  River  Canyon,  newly  opened  to  travel  by 
the  Western  Pacific  railroad.  Some  trips  closer  to  the  city 
will  be  found  farther  along  in  this  volume. 


EXCURSION  ON  THE  BAY. 

A  delightful  voyage  of  three  and  a  half  or  four  hours  on 
San  Francisco  Bay,  within  sight  of  its  cities,  islands  and 
neighboring  hills,  can  be  made  by  special  excursion  steamers 
leaving  from  points  near  the  Ferry  building.  Three  companies 
conduct  these  excursions  at  present,  and  probably  there  will 
be  many  more  of  them  before  the  exposition  opens,  for  no  city 
in  the  world  commands  such  a  fine  sheet  of  water  for  this  sort 
of  cruising.     The  customary  price  is  $1. 

The  usual  course  includes  the  northern  waterfront.  Expo- 
sition site.  Fort  Scott,  the  Golden  Gate,  Sausalito,  Raccoon 
Straits,  across  the  Bay  to  Winehaven  and  Richmond,  and 
back  to  the  San  Francisco  side,  passing  near  Yerba  Buena 
island  with  its  naval  training  station,  light  house  and  buoy 
depot. 

You  are  apt  to  pass  a  torpedo  boat  flotilla  at  anchor  at 
Sausalito,  and  battleships  anchored  off  the  southern  water 
front  at  San  Francisco,  and  in  returning  will  run  past  the 
Union  Iron  Works,  where  the  "Oregon"  and  the  "Olympia" 
were  built.  Lecturers  explain  all  points  of  interest  on  these 
trips. 


FERRY  LINES,  BAY  AND  RIVER  STEAMBOATS. 

The  suburban  transportation  services  connecting  San  Fran- 
cisco with  the  east  shore  communities  are  probably  the  finest 
that  exist,  and  tempt  the  traveler  to  the  calm  half-hour  voyage 
across  the  Bay.     The  ferry  boats  are  large  and  commodious; 


Ferr^  Lines  255 

and  at  night,  weaving  back  and  forth  with  their  hundreds  of 
electric  lights  full  on,  they  make  a  fairy-like  spectacle,  only 
exceeded  in  brilliance  by  the  sparkling  lamps  flung  broadcast 
over  the  hills  of  San  Francisco,  which  one  sees  from  the 
water  on  the  return  trip  in  the  evening. 

Boats  leave  the  Ferry  building  at  the  foot  of  Market  street, 
some  running  north  to  Sausalito,  others  northeast  to  Richmond, 
and  others  east  to  Oakland  and  Alameda  piers,  where  they 
connect  by  electric  trains  with  Oakland,  Alameda,  Melrose, 
Fruitvale,  Piedmont  and  Berkeley.  The  lines  operating  these 
ferries  are  the  Southern  Pacific,  the  Key  System,  the  Atchison, 
Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  and  the  Western  Pacific. 

The  following  directions  will  assist  visitors  to  make  use 
of  the  ferries  and  river  boats,  which  afford  some  of  the  enjoy- 
able experiences  of  a  visit  to  San  Francisco: 

Southern  Pacific  Ferry  5ijs/em.  Boats  leave  from  the  right 
of  the  main  entrance  of  the  Ferry  building  at  twenty  and 
thirty  minute  intervals  throughout  the  day  for  Oakland  and 
Alameda  piers,  where  they  connect  with  trains  for  Oakland, 
Melrose,  Alameda,  Berkeley  and  way  stops,  including  Fruit- 
vale,  Stonehurst,  Elmhurst,  Fitchburg,  Emeryville,  Shellmound 
Park,  Northbrae,  Thousand  Oaks,  and  Albany.  This  is  the 
most  extensive  ferry  and  electric  train  system  in  the  country, 
the  boats  connecting  with  826  electric  trains  a  day.  The 
mechanical  equipment,  including  steel  cars  throughout,  is  the 
finest  to  be  found  in  such  service. 

Automobiles  are  taken  only  on  the  Oakland  Harbor  Ferry 
of  the  Southern  Pacific,  which  runs  half  hourly  from  the  foot 
of  Mission  street,  south  of  the  Ferry  building,  to  the  foot  of 
Broadway,  Oakland,  from  6  a.  m.  to  9  p.  m.,  week  days, 
and  up  to  11  p.  m.,  Sundays.  After  these  hours,  autos  are 
admitted  to  the  regular  Oakland  ferry. 

Key  System.  Boats  leave  the  Ferry  building,  foot  of 
Market  street,  (left  of  main  entrance)  at  fifteen  or  twenty 
minute  intervals  during  the  day,  beginning  on  the  even  hour, 
and   connect   at  the   Key   System  pier   with  electric   trains   for 


256  Handhoolf   for  San   Francisco 

Berkeley,    Oakland,    Piedmont,    Claremont,    Northbrae,    Al- 
bany and  Richmond. 

Northivesiern  Pacific  Ferrv    (Sausalito)  :      Boats  leave  the    I 
Ferry  building,   foot  of  Market  street    (toward   north  end   of    j 
building)   at  30-minute  intervals  during  the  morning  and  after-    I 
noon,  and  hourly  during  the  middle  of  the  day,  and  connect 
at  Sausalito  with   trains   for   Petaluma,   Santa   Rosa,    Healds- 
burg,    Cloverdale,    Ukiah,    Willits,    Longvale   and    Sherwood; 
and,  by  branch  lines,  for  Guerneville,  Sebastopol  and  Sonoma    i 
Valley  points.  I 

San  Rafael,  San  Anselmo,  Larkspur,  Ross,  Mill  Valley  ' 
and  Fairfax  are  reached  by  this  route.  Look  for  the  name  . 
of  your  destination  on  the  train  boards  at  Sausalito. 

From   Sausalito   there    is   an   hourly    ferry   to   Tiburon   and 
Belvedere.      From   Tiburon   trains   leave   for   Hilarita,    Reed, 
San  Clemente,  Green  Brae,  Schuetzen  Park  and  San  Rafael.    , 
For  Sausalito   there   are  eight  boats  every  week  day  and   ten    \ 
on  Sundays. 

Mt.  Tamalpais  and  the  Muir  Woods  are  reached  from  Mill 
Valley  via  the  Sausalito  ferry,  by  three  trains  a  day. 

Stage  conection  for  the  State  prison  at  San  Quentin  is  made  | 
twice  daily  at  Greenbrae.  i 

Santa  Fe  Ferr]^    (Local   service).      Boats   leave   the   Ferry    | 
building,    foot   of   Market   street,    for   Ferry   Point,    and   there 
connect  with   trains   for   Richmond.      There   are  eight  boats  a    : 
day. 

Western  Pacific.      Four  ferry  boats  a  day  leave  the  north- 
ernmost  slip,    Ferry   building,    and   connect   with   the   overland    | 
trains  of  this  company.  i 

California  Navigation  and  Improvement  Company.  For  ; 
Stockton,  Antioch,  Pittsburg,  Crockett,  Benicia,  Martinez,  j 
Bay  Point  and  way  landings.  Boat  leaves  Washington  street  j 
wharf,  north  of  the  Ferry  building,  daily  except  Sundays  at  , 
6  p.  m.  Office,  foot  of  Washington  street,  north  of  Ferry  j 
buildmg.  I 

i 


River  Steamboats  257 


California  Transportation  Company.  For  Sacramento,  and 
river  landings,  and  connecting  with  Northern  Electric  railroad 
for  Marysville,  Yuba  City,  Oroville  and  Chico.  Boats  leave 
Jackson  street  wharf  at  5  p.  m.  daily  except  Sundays. 

Sacramento  River  Steamers;  Netherlands  Route.  (South- 
ern Pacific).  Boats  leave  Pacific  street  wharf  daily  except 
Sundays  at  I  p.  m.  and  9  p.  m.,  and  daily  except  Sundays 
and  Wednesdays  at  8:30  a.  m. 

Monticello  Steamship  Compan};.  Vallejo  (en  route  to  Mare 
Island)  and  connecting  with  San  Francisco,  Napa  and  Calis- 
toga  railway  (electric)  to  Napa,  St.  Helena  and  Calistoga. 
Boats  leave  foot  of  Merchant  street,  north  of  Ferry  building. 
(Ferry  runs  every  hour  from  Vallejo  to  Mare  Island  Navy 
Yard.) 

Napa  Transportation  Compan)).  For  Napa,  Vallejo  and 
Mare  Island.  Boats  leave  Mission  street  wharf,  south  of  the 
Ferry  building,  at  5  p.  m.,  daily  except  Sundays;  touch  at 
Mare  Island  Navy  Yard  and  run  up  Napa  creek  to  Napa. 

Petaluma  and  Santa  Rosa  Raillvay.  For  Petaluma,  and 
connecting  with  P.  &  S.  R.  electric  line  to  Sebastopol  and 
Santa  Rosa,  Graton  and  Forestville.  Boats  leave  Washing- 
ton street  bulkhead  daily,  except  Sundays,  at  11  a.  m.  and 
4  p.  m. 


CITIES  OF  THE  EAST  SHORE. 

Oakland,  Alameda,  Berkeley,  Richmond,  Piedmont,  Hay- 
ward  and  their  outlying  suburbs 

Can  he  reached  by  the  Southern  Pacific  or  the  Key  System 
ferry,  leaving  the  Ferry  building  at  the  foot  of  Market  street, 
and  connecting  jvith  electric  suburban  trains.  The  Southern 
Pacific  ferry  depot  is  in  the  Ferry  building  to  the  south,  or 
right  of  the  center  as  you  approach  down  Mari^et  street;  the 
Key  System  depot  is  to  the  north  of  the  center.  Boats  of  each 
system  run  every  twenty  minutes.     Fare,  ten  cents.     The  auto- 


258  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

mobile  ferr^  is  operated  from  a  slip  at  the  foot  of  Mission 
street,  south  of  the  Ferry  building. 

The  cities  of  the  east  side  of  the  bay  are  an  important  and 
interesting  part  of  the  community  that  is  growing  up  in  the 
San  Francisco  bay  basin. 

Their  recent  growth  has  been  rapid.  Oakland  has,  in  fact, 
outgrown  its  suburban  relationship,  and  become  a  city  of 
importance,  with  a  population  estimated  in  1913  at  200,000. 
Berkeley   has    about    40,000    inhabitants    and   Alameda    over 

23,000. 

Up  the  Bay  shore,  north  of  Berkeley,  is  Richmond,  with 
its  factories  and  shops.  Southward  out  of  Oakland  are  the 
towns  of  Hayward,  San  Leandro,  San  Lorenzo,  Niles  and 
Mission  San  Jose. 

From  almost  any  elevation  in  San  Francisco  one  can  see 
across  the  Bay,  in  clear  weather,  the  Oakland  City  Hall,  one 
of  the  tallest  buildings  west  of  New  York.  It  stands  in  a 
park  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  at  the  corner  of  Washington  and 
Fourteenth  streets.  It  is  335  feet  to  the  top  of  the  lantern 
and  cupola,  and  376  feet  to  the  cluster  of  lights  that  shine 
abroad  every  night  from  the  top  of  the  steel  mast  surmounting 
the  whole.  From  the  cupola  one  can  see  into  nine  counties 
surrounding  the  bay — Alameda,  Marin,  Sonoma,  Napa,  So- 
lano, Contra  Costa,  Santa  Clara,  San  Mateo  and  San  Fran- 
cisco. 

Oakland  has  a  very  extensive  street  car  system  that  enables 
you  to  go  almost  anywhere  on  the  east  side  of  the  Bay,  from 
Berkeley  to  Hayward.  For  five  cents  you  can  ride  from  the 
northerly  limits  of  Berkeley,  through  Oakland  to  the  upper 
end  of  Fruitvale,  a  distance  of  twenty  miles. 

Generally  speaking,  the  whole  street  railway  system  is 
brought  to  a  focus  at  Thirteenth  and  Broadway,  or  at  corners 
within  a  block  of  that  one,  and  this  is  the  key  to  transporta- 
tion for  the  traveler  in  Oakland.  You  reach  this  point  either 
on  the  Key  System  to  Twelfth  and  Broadway,  a  block  south 
of    Thirteenth,    or    by    the   Southern    Pacific    to    Seventh    and 


Cities  of  the  East  Shore  259 

Broadway  and  trolley  from  there  to  Twelfth  street.  The 
Hayrvard  car,  the  Dimond  Canyon,  the  Mills  College,  the 
Piedmont,  the  Alameda,  the  University,  the  College  avenue 
and  several  more  lines  afford  delightful  rides  from  Oakland  in 
every  direction. 

The  Grand  avenue  car  will  take  you  to  Lakeside  Park,  on 
Adams  Point,  at  the  north  end  of  Lake  Merritt,  one  of  the 
beauty  spots  of  Califorina. 

Oakland's  Free  Library,  at  Fourteenth  and  Grove  streets,  is 
worth  a  visit  for  the  fine  mural  paintings  it  contains. 

The  Municipal  Museum  is  on  Oak  street  north  of  Thir- 
teenth. It  has  a  great  collection  of  Indian  basketry,  besides 
colonial,  Indian  and  South  Sea  work.  Open  on  week  days 
from  10  to  5,  and  on  Sundays  from  2  to  6  in  the  afternoon. 
Admittance    is  free. 

Idora  Park  is  the  largest  amusement  park  in  the  West,  has 
a  good  theater  where  opera  bouffe  is  occasionally  given,  and  is 
a  paradise  for  children.  During  the  summer  light  opera  is 
given  in  the  open  air  without  other  charge  than  the  park  ad- 
mittance fee. 

Young  Mens  Christian  Association,  Telegraph  avenue  and 
Hobart  street.  Can  be  reached  by  the  Telegraph  and  Shat- 
tuck  avenue  cars.  At  Fourteenth  and  Caslro  streets  is  the 
home  of  the  Young  Wom.ens  Christian  Association. 

The  Hotel  Oakland,  recently  completed  at  a  cost  of  about 
a  million  and  a  half,  occupies  the  block  between  Thirteenth 
and  Fourteenth,  and  Alice  and  Harrison  streets.  Its  large 
banquet  halls  are  the  scene  of  the  civic  festivities  and  social 
life  of  the  east  shore  city.  Other  good  hotels  are  the  St. 
Mark,  at  Twelfth  and  Franklin  streets;  the  Metropole,  at 
Thirteenth  and  Jefferson;  the  Athens,  at  Broadway  and  Fif- 
teenth; the  Crellin,  at  Eighth  and  Washington;  the  Adams, 
on  Twelfth,  between  Jefferson  and  Clay;  the  Arcade,  at  San 
Pablo  and  Twentieth,  and  the  Key  Route  Inn,  at  Broadway 
and  Twenty-second. 


260 


Handbook  for  San  Francisco 


Opposite  the  Hotel  Oakland  is  the  Oakland  Chamber  of 
Commerce,  at  245  Thirteenth  street.  Nobody  should  visit 
Oakland  without  seeing  this  place,  and  its  collection  of  "pro- 
cessed" flowers  and  small  fruits. 

Twelfth  street  is  the  eastward  outlet  of  Oakland  through 
East  Oakland  with  its  fine  old  residences  and  down  the  shore 


ACROSS    THK    HAV,    FKOM    Xol?    IIII.I.. 

of  the   Bay.      The  Havward  car,   from  Twelfth  and   Broad- 
way,   will   take   you    on    a   beautiful    ride   through   the   cherry 

orchards  of  San   Leandro  to  the   thriving  town  of  Hayxvard,  " 

thirteen  miles  south  of  the  city.     At  Broadmoor,  on  the  way,  j 

is  one  of  Luther  Burbank's  experimental  farms.  I 

Hay  ward  is  also  on  the  Foothill  Boulevard,  one  of  the  en-  ! 
joyable    things   of   Oakland    for    those    that    have    automobiles 

or    care    to    hire    them.      Near    Hayward    is   the   State    Game  j 

Farm.  ! 

South   of    Hayward    the    automobile    highway    continues    to 

Niles,    where    is    located    the   California    Nursery,    the    largest  I 

single  block  of  land  devoted  to  nursery  purposes  in  the  country,  j 


Cities  of  the  East  Shore  261 

It  makes  a  bewildering  display  of  citrus  and  deciduous  fruit 
stock,  amid  flourishing  palms  and  semi-tropical  plants  of  many 
interesting   varieties. 

In  this  favored  strip  of  country  is  situated  the  old  Mission 
San  Jose  (not  near,  nor  connected  with,  the  city  of  San  Jose), 
where  there  are  many  interesting  souvenirs  of  early  Spanish 
times.  In  the  cemetery  are  the  graves  of  the  Bernals,  the 
Alvisos  and  other  old  Spanish  families. 

Mission  San  Jose  is  near  Irvington  station  on  the  Southern 
Pacific,  whence  one  can  reach  "Pa/mJa/e,"  a  private  estate 
on  which  there  is  such  a  luxuriant  growth  of  tropical  plants 
that  travelers  have  gone  long  distances  to  see  it.  With  its 
palm  and  olive  groves,  some  of  the  trees  of  which  are  1 00 
years  old,  this  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  sights  of  the 
eastern  shore  of  the  Bay.     A  stage  runs  from  Irvington. 

These  places  of  distinctively  Californian  beauty  and  charm 
beyond  Hayward  are  best  reached  by  automobile,  down  the 
Foothill  Boulevard,  which  connects  with  fine  automobile  roads 
clear  to  San  Jose  and  beyond. 

Riding  out  East  Fourteenth  street,  one  catches  glimpses 
to  southward,  of  many  masts  of  vessels  rising  from  the  water 
at  the  foot  of  every  street.  These  lie  in  Oakland's  inner 
harbor,  connected  with  the  Bay  by  the  "Estuary,"  a  channel 
thirty  feet  deep  and  eight  hundred  feet  wide.  This  is  the 
locality  of  many  of  the  scenes  in  Jack  London's  novel,  "John 
Barleycorn." 

The  Oakland  Baseball  Park  is  at  San  Pablo  and  Park 
avenues.  The  grand  stand  is  an  exceptionally  fine  structure. 
The  park  can  be  reached  by  the  San  Pablo  avenue  cars  from 
any  point  on  Broadway  south  of  Fourteenth  street,  or  by  the 
/Cei;  System  jerry  from  San  Francisco. 

The  residence  section  about  Piedmont  and  Piedmont  Parf( 
is  one  of  the  most  attractive  in  the  country,  with  handsome 
homes  set  in  green  gardens  where  palm  trees  and  roses  flourish. 
This  district  can  also  be  reached  from  the  center  of  the  city, 
by  the  Piedmont  avenue  cars. 


262  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

Claremonl,  a  sheltered  cove  of  the  hills  north  of  Oakland, 
is  another  beautiful  suburb.  Here  is  rising  a  great  tourist 
hotel  in  a  superb  location,  amid  the  most  attractive  surround- 
ings. Claremont  can  be  reached  by  the  Kev  System  ferr\) 
direct  from  San  Francisco,  or  by  the  Telegraph  avenue  line 
from  the  center  of  Oakland,  transferring  at  Ashhy  to  a  car 
bound  east.  North  of  Claremont  is  the  State  institution  for 
the  deaf,  dumb  and  blind. 

The  Walnut  Cree}(  and  Mount  Diablo  country  can  be 
seen  to  good  advantage  from  the  cars  of  the  Oakland  &  An- 
lioch  electric  railroad,  leaving  from  the  Key  System  pier. 

Across  Oakland's  estuary  harbor,  to  the  southward,  is 

Alameda.  This  fine  residence  city  can  be  reached  by  trolley 
car  from  Oakland,  running  south  on  Washington  street,  the 
first  street  west  of  Broadway,  or  by  Southern  Pacific  ferry 
from  San  Francisco,  taking  the  boat  to  Alameda  pier. 

One  of  the  "sights"  of  Alameda  is  the  arctic  fleet  of  the 
Alaska  Packers  Association  in  her  harbor ;  and  the  ship-build- 
ing plants  along  her  water  front  are  another.  Yachting,  canoe- 
ing and  swimming  are  popular  sports  in  the  warm  waters  of 
the  Bay,  along  the  south  shore,  and  give  the  place  a  distinctly 
aquatic  character. 

The  Alameda  Baths,  a  fine  outdoor  place  for  a  swim,  can  be 
reached  from  San  Francisco  by  taking  the  Southern  Pacific 
ferry  to  Alameda  pier  and  the  Encinal  Loop  train  to  the 
second  stop,  at  Fifth  street 

The  Horseshoe  route  of  the  Southern  Pacific  ferry  system 
offers  a  good  way  to  see  part  of  Alameda  and  the  growing 
industrial  district  about  Oakland  Harbor. 

Take  the  ferry  to  Alameda  Pier  and  there  tal(e  the  train 
marked  "Horseshoe." 


KEY  TROLLEY  TRIP. 

One  of  the  most  enjoyable  and  profitable  ways  to  see  the 
cities   of   the   eastern   shore   is   by    means  of   the   Key   Trolley 


/Cep    Trolley    Trip  263 


Trip,  personally  conducted,  under  the  management  of  the  San 
Francisco-Oakland  Terminal   Railways. 

The  trip  takes  a  day  and  costs  a  dollar.  The  excursion 
leaves  by  the  Key  System  ferry,  at  the  foot  of  Market  street, 
at  10  o'clock  a.  m.,  and  returns  to  San  Francisco  at  4:50. 
A  stop  is  made  at  the  Key  Route  Inn,  Oakland,  for  luncheon. 
All  other  expenses  are  included  m  the  original  charge. 

Sixty-eight  miles  are  covered  in  the  day's  journey,  including 
the  transit  of  the  bay  on  one  of  the  Key  System's  ferry  steam- 
ers. Berkeley,  Northbrae,  Thousand  Oaks,  Claremont,  Oak- 
land, Piedmont,  Melrose,  San  Leandro  and  Hayward  are 
visited;  all  interesting  and  beautiful  cities  and  suburbs.  If 
one  misses  the  1 0  o'clock  trip,  another  starts  at  1  p.  m.  and 
joins  the  first,  omitting  the  Berkeley  part  of  the  journey. 

At  Piedmont  is  a  beautiful  park,  and  one  of  the  principal 
art  collections  in  the  West,  Melrose  has  an  ostrich  farm, 
which  is  one  of  the  places  visited. 


PIEDMONT  PARK  AND  THE  HAVENS  ART 
COLLECTION. 

Situated  in  the  hills  northeast  of  Oakland,  east  side  of  the 
Bay;  open  from  9  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m.  (Park  closes  at  6:30  p. 
m. )  Admittance  to  park,  10  cents  for  adults,  5  cents  for 
children  between  5  and  1 4 ;  under  5  years,  free.  Admittance 
to  art  gallery,   1 0  cents. 

Cross  the  Bay,  either  fcp  Southern  Pacific  or  Key  System 
ferry.  Take  Piedmont  avenue  trolley  line,  either  at  Seventh 
and  Broadway  station  of  the  Southern  Pacific,  or  at  the  end 
of  the  Piedmont  branch  of  the  Key  System. 

There  is  a  club  house  and  a  popular-price  cafe,  an  open 
air  amphitheater,  where  "al  fresco  "  performances  sometimes 
take  place,  a  children's  playground,  with  donkeys  to  ride  and 
pony  carts. 


264  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

Directly  across  from  the  gate  house,  one  passes  the  sulphur 
springs,  and  the  band  stand,  where  open  air  concerts  are 
given  every  Sunday  from  1  to  4  p.  m. ;  and  beyond  that  is 
the  Art  Caller]).  Beyond  the  art  gallery  there  is  a  basketball 
field,  and  a  tennis  court. 

PIEDMONT  ART  GALLERY. 

This  collection,  brought  together  by  Mr.  Frank  C.  Havens, 
of  Oakland,  is  housed  in  a  building  400  feet  long,  of  ten 
chambers,  in  which  there  now  hang  some  450  paintings.  Among 
other  good  things  it  contains  a  Julien  Dupre,  a  Corregio,  a 
Paulus  Potter  from  the  Hoe  collection  of  New  York,  and  a 
portrait  by  Jansen  Van  Ceulen  from  the  same  collection. 
Possibly  more  interesting  than  these  from  some  standpoints 
are  a  number  of  Russian  canvases  that  were  part  of  the  St. 
Louis  Exposition. 

Another  delight  of  artist  visitors  is  Hans  Hansen's  "Interior 
of  a  Copenhagen  Restaurant." 

One  of  the  popular  pieces  is  a  large  painting  of  the  cats 
once  belonging  to  Mrs.  Kate  Johnson  of  San  Francisco,  en- 
titled, "My  Wife's  Lovers." 

Old  San  Franciscans  will  remember  the  "Sampson  and 
Delilah,"  by  Jacobs,  which  hung  in  Hackett's  Palace  of  Art 
on  Post  street  near  Montgomery  before  the  fire.  In  the  upper 
right  hand,  corner  are  a  couple  of  small  rents  in  the  canvas, 
said  to  be  bullet  holes.  This  painting  made  its  debut  in  the 
Bank  Exchange,  at  the  corner  of  Montgomery  and  Wash- 
ington streets,  San  Francisco.  It  was  purchased  by  Milton 
S.  Latham,  one  of  the  early  Governors  of  the  State,  and 
resold  by  him  to  Hackett. 

California  artists  are  well  represented,  and  a  painting  that 
never  fails  to  awaken  the  delight  of  the  lovers  of  the  scenery 
of  the  bay  region,  as  well  as  the  admiration  of  all  artists  that 
see  it,  is  Thad  Welch's  "Tamalpais." 

There  is  a  William  Keith  of  forty  years  ago:  "The  Cali- 
fornian   Alps.  "      It   is    of   the    beginning   of   the    Keiths,    and 


The   University^  of  California 


265 


shows  his  early  mastery  of  the  structure  of  the  mountains  and 
the  rocks. 

Space  will  not  permit  a  full  enumeration,  but  a  picture  lover 
will  find  enough  here  to  delight  him  for  several  hours. 


'I'liK    IIKAKST   (;i;i:i;i\    ■iiii:\ii;i;,    i',i;i;ki:i.i;\  . 


BERKELEY  AND   THE   UNIVERSITY  OF  CALI- 
FORNIA—THE HEARST  GREEK  THEATER. 

This  will  make  a  most  enjoyable  day's  outing  from  San 
Francisco,  and  is  an  experience  no  visitor  to  this  locality  should 
miss. 

To  reach  Berkeley,  take  either  the  Southern  Pacific  ferry 
or  the  Key  System  ferry  from  the  foot  of  Market  street,  and 
the  Berkeley  train,  on  the  Oakland  mole  of  either  line. 

Before  visiting  the  University  it  is  well  to  get  an  idea  of  the 
city  and  of  bay  geography,  and  to  see  at  the  same  time  one 
of  the  best  views  of  San  Francisco  Bay  by  taking  a  trolley 


266 


Handboolf  for  San  Francisco 


MAP   OF   THE   UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA. 


The  Hearst  Creek  Theater  Idl 

ride  on  the  Cragmont  car,  of  the  Euclid  avenue  line,  which 
you  can  board  on  University  avenue  at  Shattuck. 

The  University  of  California  occupies  520  acres  on  the 
slopes  of  the  Berkeley  hills,  commanding  a  view  of  the  Bay 
of  San  Francisco  and  some  times  far  out  to  sea ;  one  of  the 
grandest  and  most  inspiring  locations  for  an  institution  of 
this  kind. 

There  are  groves  of  pine,  eucalyptus  and  ancient  oaks.  The 
architecture  of  the  new  buildings  is  imposing  and  beautiful. 

The  world-famous  Creef^  Theater,  gift  of  William  Ran- 
dolph Hearst,  lies  eastward  of  the  main  buildings,  in  a  hollow 
of  Charter  Hill,  once  known  as  Ben  Weed's  Amphitheater. 
It  seats  8,000  people,  and  here  have  appeared  such  artists  as 
Schumann-Heink,  Gadski,  Nordica,  Tetrazzini,  Bispham, 
Wullner,  Petchinikoff,  Beel,  Adele  Verne,  Josef  Hoffman, 
Myrtle  Elvyn,  the  Ben  Greet  players,  Constance  Crawley, 
Nance  O'Neill,  Maude  Adams,  Margaret  Anglin  and  Sarah 
Bernhardt — some  of  the  greatest  players  of  the  world,  in  their 
greatest  roles. 

California  Field,  scene  of  football  contests,  is  south  of  the 
old  campus.  It  seats  24,000  spectators.  North  of  the  field 
is  the  California  Museum  of  Vertebrate  Zoology^,  with  more 
than  24,000  birds  and  1  9,000  mammals  of  the  Pacific  Coast. 
Not  far  away,  in  a  galvanized  iron  building,  is  a  most  inter- 
esting Museum  of  Casts,  showing  the  beauties  of  Greek  and 
Roman  sculpture — the  gift  of  Mrs.  Phoebe  Hearst. 

THE    CHRISTIAN    SCIENCE    CHURCH    OF    BERKELEY. 

No  one  should  leave  Berkeley,  (or  for  that  matter,  San 
Francisco),  without  a  visit  to  the  Christian  Science  church  at 
Bowditch  street  and  Dwight  Way ;  a  shrine  of  beauty  that 
would  be  famous  if  it  were  in  Europe.  It  is  easily  reached  by 
either  the  College  avenue  or  the  Telegraph  avenue  line,  being 
about  half  way  between  them,  and  may  be  viewed  on  applica- 
tion to  the  janitor  any  afternoon  except  Sundays  and  Wednes- 
days, 


268  Handboolf  for  San  Francisco 

It  is  one  of  the  works  of  B.  R.  Maybeck,  architect  of  the 
Palace  of  Fine  Arts  at  the  Panama-Pacific  Exposition.  The 
exterior  reveals  surprising  originality  in  timbering  and  trellising, 
and  in  the  concrete  window  traceries.  Inside  there  is  a  startling 
boldness  of  composition  and  color.  Masses  of  gilding  flung 
aloft  on  beams  and  trusses  and  concrete  screens,  splashes  of 
emerald  and  vermilion,  delicate  blues,  and  gouts  of  madder, 
and  mingled  elements  of  Gothic  and  rich  Byzantine  done  in 
a  spirit  of  prodigal  exuberance,  convey  a  resistless,  uplifting 
sense  of  joyousness  and  vitality. 

All  the  backgrounds  are  a  soft  and  gentle  gray.  The  walls 
and  floors  are  gray,  the  principal  columns  and  pilasters  are 
gray,  the  pews  are  gray,  the  open  timbering  is  gray,  and 
gray  light  filters  through  the  wide  windows;  until  the  whole 
colorful  glory  of  it  seems  to  swim  in  a  cool  and  pearly  mist. 
Free  from  precedent  or  convention,  this  edifice  is  the  embodi- 
ment of  the  new  artistic  spirit  of  the  West ;  large,  vigorous, 
spontaneous,  reaching  heights  of  beauty  possibly  unattainable 
through  more  orthodox  methods. 


SAN  LEANDRO  AND  LAKE  CHABOT.  , 

A  pleasant  day's  outing,  involving  a  visit  to  the  pretty  town    | 
of  San  Leandro,  across  the  bay,  and  a  walk  of  about  a  mile 
into  the  Alameda  county  hills,  can  be  made  with  Lake  Chabot 
as  its  objective. 

Take  Southern   Pacific  ferr^   to   Oakland  Mole,   and  San 
Leandro  train  from  there,  fcp  n^a])  of  Havenscourt  and  Broad-    i 
moor.      Get  off  at  Estudillo  avenue,  San  Leandro,  and  wall( 
north. 

Crossing  the  Foothill  Boulevard,  u'hich  runs  out  from  Oak- 
land, take  the  hill  road,  a  continuation  of  Estudillo  avenue,  and    ' 
turn   to  the   right   at   the   first   fork.      If  going  by   automobile, 
leave  the  Foothill  Boulevard  at  old  Hunters'  Inn,  just  beyond    ] 
the   concrete   bridge,    and   climb   the   hill   road,   turning   to   the 
right  at  the  first  opportunity.  j 


Richmond  269 

Lake  Chabot  is  the  reservoir  from  which  the  cities  of  Oak- 
land, Alameda  and  Berkeley  are  supplied  with  water.  It 
stands  328  feet  above  sea  level,  a"d  has  a  capacity,  up  to  the 
spillway,  of  eight  billion  gallons.  It  is  four  and  one-half  miles 
long  and  twelve  miles  around. 

The  lake  is  set  in  rolling  hills,  timbered  in  places,  but  with 
much  open  country  and  rounded,  brushy  knolls.  Two  long 
blue  wings  reach  far  up  into  romantic  canyons.  The  tributary 
water-shed  has  an  extent  of  48  square  miles. 

A  day  could  easily  be  spent  on  a  jaunt  to  this  pretty  spot, 
and  through  the  level  lands  about  San  Leandro,  which  are  set 
thick  with  cherry  and  apricot  orchards  and  in  Spring  are  a 
wilderness  of  perfumed  blossoms.  The  Estudillo  House  at 
San  Leandro,  preserving  the  name  of  the  old  Spanish  family 
of  this  locality,  is  a  good  place  for  luncheon. 


RICHMOND,  A  NEW  INDUSTRIAL  GROWTH. 

Richmond,  Contra  Costa  county,  has  grown  from  a  wheat 
field  to  an  industrial  city  of  15,000  people  in  about  twelve 
years.  No  better  example  exists  of  the  robust  expansion  of 
industry  about  San  Francisco  Bay  during  the  last  decade,  and 
any  one  interested  in  the  development  of  modern  industrial 
plants  will  be  able  to  find  some  of  their  highest  types  here. 

A  round  trip  to  Richmond  can  be  made  very  comfortably 
by  the  Atchison,  Topeffa  and  Santa  Fe  jerry  from  the  foot 
of  Market  street,  for  forty-five  cents.  There  are  two  boats 
in  the  morning  to  Ferry  Point,  in  Contra  Costa  county,  whence 
a  train  will  convey  you  to  the  town,  and  two  returning  in  the 
afternoon,  so  that  you  can  have  several  hours  to  inspect  the 
neighborhood.  The  town  is  also  on  the  Southern  Pacific  Rail- 
road, and  in  addition,  can  be  reached  by  way  of  the  Ke\i 
System. 

The  Santa  Fe  has  great  repair  shops  here.  The  Richmond 
refinery  of  the  Standard  Oil  Company  is  the  largest  west  of 


270  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

New  Jersey  and  is  destined  to  become  the  greatest  in  the  world. 
It  covers,  already,  300  acres  of  ground,  laid  out  in  streets  and 
blocks,  and  receives  crude  oil  from  the  Kern  County  fields 
by  a  pipe  line  260  miles  long. 

In  the  outskirts,  at  Pullman,  are  the  western  shops  of  the 
Pullman  Palace  Car  company,  the  principal  establishment  of 
this  concern  west  of  the  Mississippi.  The  industrial  develop- 
ment that  has  its  larger  nucleus  at  Richmond  extends  clear  up 
the  bay  shore  to  Bay  Point,  Antioch,  Pittsburg  and  similar 
points.      It  is  San  Francisco  extended. 

At  Winehaven,  a  suburb  with  which  Richmond  is  con- 
nected by  a  belt  railroad,  are  the  great  cellars  of  the  California 
Wine  Association ;  the  largest  wine  vaults  in  the  world,  and 
the  central  plant  of  the  world's  largest  wine  making  organiza- 
tion. Both  grapes  and  wine  are  brought  here  from  the  Asso- 
ciation's vineyards  and  wineries  all  over  California.  Among 
the  huge  redwood  tuns  in  these  cellars  are  twelve  miles  of 
passages,  and  the  storage  capacity  is  about  ten  million  gallons. 
The  shipping  capacity  is  over  500,000  gallons  a  month,  and 
between  six  and  eight  million  gallons  go  out  every  year  to  ail 
parts  of  the  world.  Sixty-seven  kinds  of  wine  are  shipped  from 
this  plant,  and  from  its  pier  forty  or  more  ships  annually  sail 
for  New  York  alone. 

Winehaven  is  rather  difficult  for  the  traveler  to  reach  from 
Richmond,  but  is  usually  one  of  the  features  of  a  bay  ex- 
cursion. 


SAUSALITO,  THE  "SORRENTO  OF  AMERICA." 

Sausalito,  six  miles  north  of  San  Francisco,  is  the  water- 
gate  to  Marin,  Sonoma,  Mendocino,  Lake  and  Humboldt 
counties;  in  fact  to  all  that  infinitely  varied  and  attractive 
country  made  accessible  by  the  Northwestern  Pacific  railroad. 
In  addition  it  is  an  entrancing  villa  suburb  only  30  minutes 
from  San   Francisco,   set  amid  oak   groves  by   the  water-side, 


Sausalito  271 

on  hills  that  rise  directly  from  the  bay  and  that  command 
views  as  fine  as  any  to  be  found  on  that  famous  Route  de  la 
Corniche  which  Napoleon  built  along  the  Riviera  from  Nice 
to  Mentone. 

After  seeing  San  Francisco  a  visitor  could  hardly  do  bet- 
ter with  a  day's  time  than  to  make  a  ferry  trip  to  Sausalito  and 
take  the  trails  from  there  to  heights  overlooking  the  Bay  and 
the  Golden  Gate,  and  on  toward  the  Ocean.  Or,  if  one 
wishes  to  see  Belvedere,  with  its  villas,  and  its  orange,  lemon 
and  grapefruit  trees,  it  can  be  reached  by  an  hourly  boat  from 
Sausalito.     To  reach  the  latter  place, 

Tal^e  Sausalito  ferry  (Norihrve&tern  Pacific)  from  the 
Ferry  building,  north  of  the  main  entrance. 

Boats  run  every  half  hour  through  the  morning  and  even- 
ing; hourly  during  the  middle  of  the  day.  The  round  trip 
fare  is  25  cents. 

On  this  trip,  one  of  the  most  interesting  by  ferry,  you  pass 
along  the  northern  piers  and  the  old  grain  sheds,  obtaining  a 
close  view  of  some  big  shipping,  and  of  the  industrial  and 
commercial  part  of  the  city  that  lies  at  the  base  of  Telegraph 
Hill.  You  pass  eastward  of  Alcatraz  Island,  close  to  the 
military  prison;  and  westward  of  Angel  Island. 

Approaching  the  landing  slip,  you  pass  gay  white  yachts 
at  anchor,  and  perhaps  lean,  gray  torpedo  boats  and  hungry- 
looking  four-funneled  destroyers.  The  San  Francisco  Yacht 
club  has  its  club  house  here. 

All  over  the  hill  slopes,  peeping  from  groves  of  low- 
growing  oaks,  are  villas  and  bungalows,  between  which  the 
steeps  are  scaled  by  long  flights  of  stairs. 

At  Sausalito  you  can  get  automobiles  or  horses;  or,  if  you 
are  even  but  an  average  walker,  you  will  find  here  the  begin- 
ning of  two  paths  that  will  show  you  grand  scenery. 

Suppose  you  go  afoot,  as  far  as  you  choose,  on  the 
short  cut  to  Fort  Barry,  which  is  situated  near  Point  Bonita, 
the  northern  outer  headland  corresponding  to  Point  Lobos. 
The   road   goes   over   the   hills.      To   reach   it,    take   Excelsior 


272  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

Lane,  beginning  at  a  flight  of  wooden  steps  directly  west  of 
the  Httle  rock-walled  palm  garden  near  the  ferry  landing.  You 
mount  by  one  flight  after  another,  crossing  Buckley  avenue 
and  Harrison  avenue,  between  the  bungalows  and  the  thick- 
eted  hillside  gardens,  until  you  come  to  San  Carlos  avenue. 
Here  turn  to  the  left,  on  San  Carlos,  and  then  take  Spencer 
avenue,  the  first  turn  to  the  right,  and  follow  it  around  the  bend 
and  up  the  hill.  At  the  plank-covered  reservoir  keep  to  the 
right-hand  road.  A  trail  marked  Bonita  Point  takes  off 
to  the  left,  but  while  it  is  more  direct,  the  road  makes  an 
easier  ascent. 

Looking  back  from  these  hillsides  the  view  is  one  of 
magnificence.  Through  northward  hill-gaps,  Tamalpais  ap- 
pears in  one  of  its  loveliest  aspects,  ridged  and  wooded,  seamed 
with  great  canyons,  and  with  placid,  verdant  Mill  Valley 
flowing  sinuously  toward  the  bay.  Richardson's  bay  itself 
is  like  a  mountain  lake,  from  here.  You  will  look  up  Raccoon 
straits,  between  Belvedere  and  Angel  Island,  to  San  Pablo 
bay — "up  river  direct"  the  shipping  men  call  it,  for  into  San 
Pablo  bay  the  waters  of  the  Sacramento  and  the  San  Joaquin 
rivers  find  their  way  to  the  larger  bay  below.  Point  Pedro 
runs  out  from  the  left,  and  opposite  one  can  see  the  oil  tanks 
at  Richmond,  directly  across  the  water. 

South  of  Angel  Island  you  look  across  to  Berkeley  and 
Oakland  and  the  long  range  of  hills  crouching  behind  them. 
This  is  a  beautiful  view  at  night,  when  the  foothills  are 
strewn  with  lights  like  swarms  of  fireflies.  Far  to  the  south 
appears  the  Oakland  city  hall.  Over  the  hills  behind  Oakland 
can  be  seen  the  crest  of  Mt.  Diablo. 

Alcatraz  is  in  the  foreground,  and  back  of  it  is  Yerba 
Buena  island,  which  the  ferry  boats  pass  on  their  way  to 
Oakland  and  Berkeley.  Lastly,  as  you  turn  southward,  you 
see  what  appears  to  be  the  tip  of  a  long  peninsula,  crowned 
with  houses.  It  is  San  Francisco's  Telegraph  Hill,  standing 
like  a  sentry  where  the  great  ships  pass  to  reach  the  city's 
eastern   and   southern   docks. 


Sausalito  273 

Other  water  scenes  there  are  that  show  us  vastness  and 
inimitable  distance,  but  they  lack  the  limitations  that  make 
this  view  a  matchless  composition.  Water-scapes  need  boun- 
dary, and  this  one  has  it — a  frame  of  the  eternal  hills  and  at 
least  one  mighty  mountain,  making  the  noblest  setting  it  is 
possible  to  conceive.  Straits,  islands,  ships,  cities,  and  hills 
and  valleys  spread  themselves  before  you  in  such  a  panorama 
as  one  can  find  nowhere  else.  Not  even  the  view  from 
Virgil's  tomb  across  the  Bay  of  Naples  can  compare  with  this. 

Over  upland  pastures  you  may  go,  through  tempting  stiles 
and  by  land  covered  with  wild  flowers  in  Spring,  catching 
glimpses  of  the  city  or  the  sand  dunes  beyond  the  Park,  and 
seeing  cupped  in  notches  of  the  hills,  bits  of  sapphire  which 
are  the  waters  of  the  Golden  Gate.  Soon  the  ocean  bursts 
upon  you;  and  the  dazzling  brightness  of  it  may  lure  you  on 
to  Rodeo  lagoon  or  Tennessee  Cove  if  you  are  fond  of  roving. 

We  can  give  you  no  permission  to  pass  over  these  private 
lands,  but  it  has  heretofore  been  the  careless  and  comfort- 
able California  practice  to  take  such  permission  for  granted. 

Past  Rodeo  lagoon  (the  long  sheet  of  water  that  seems 
cut  in  from  the  ocean)  the  road  leads  down  to  Fort  Barry 
and  Point  Bonita,  and  from  here  one  can  take  the  lower 
road  back  by  way  of  Fort  Baker.  It  is  worth  while,  how- 
ever, to  return  as  you  came,  for  the  sake  of  the  shifting  scenes 
as  you  descend. 

If  you  are  an  American  citizen,  with  proper  identification, 
you  can  visit  the  defenses  at  any  of  the  forts  around  the  bay 
by  application  to  the  authorities  at  the  post  you  desire  to  visit. 
Cameras  must  be  left  at  home. 

On  application  to  the  authorities  at  Forts  Baker  and  Barry 
a  limited  number  of  automobiles  may  be  permitted  to  pass 
over  the  public  road;  which,  however,  will  be  found  to  be 
narrow — too  narrow  at  many  points  west  of  the  Fort  Baker 
garrison  proper,  to  allow  two  vehicles  to  pass. 

To  reach  Fort  Balder,  directly  from  Sausalito,  follow  Water 
street  southward  from  the  town  and  turn  to  the  left  at  South 


274  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

street.  The  reservation  line  is  marked  by  distinctive  signs 
and  an  iron  gate.  There  are  about  two  thousand  acres  in 
the  Forts  Balder  and  Barry  reservation,  extending  from  Sau- 
saHto  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  portion  east  of  Point  Diablo 
is  known  as  Fort  Baker,  and  west  of  it  as  Fort  Barry. 

Here  you  breast  the  hills  and  mount  until  you  top  a  ridge, 
and  see  in  a  pretty  hollow  beneath  you  the  barracks  and 
guard  house  and  the  officers'  quarters  of  the  post. 

A  few  hundred  yards  beyond  a  little  wharf  you  see  the 
Needles,  and  Lime  Point  Light  House.  Here,  and  just  west- 
ward, is  the  narrowest  and  deepest  part  of  the  Golden  Gate, 
where  the  tides,  and  the  volume  of  water  brought  down  by 
the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin  rivers,  keep  the  channel 
scoured  to  a  depth  of  63  fathoms. 

Near  the  Needles  the  road  winds  up  and  around  the  hill 
at  about  a  ten  per  cent  grade,  and  after  a  mile  of  it  you  find 
yourself  just  above  the  Light  House,  whence  you  look  down 
on  the  Golden  Gate  and  the  little  antiquated  brick  structure 
opposite  on  Fort  Point,  known  as  Fort  Winfield  Scott,  built 
before  the  Civil  War. 

Keeping  to  the  right  after  passing  this  bluff,  and  following 
the  fence,  one  reaches  Fort  Barrv  garrison,  after  a  journey 
of  some  seven  miles  from  Sausalito. 

Two  miles  farther  is  Point  Bonita,  with  its  Light  House. 
This  point  is  farther  westward  than  the  seal  rocks;  and  here 
ir  an  interesting  relic  of  former  days:  an  old  cannon  used 
in  1850  as  the  first  fog  signal  anywhere  near  the  Golden  Gate. 

If  the  pedestrian  on  the  jaunt  to  Fort  Barry  will  leave  the 
main  road  at  the  divide  a  little  over  two  miles  west  of  Fort 
Baker  garrison,  and  take  the  path  around  Diablo,  he  will  be 
rewarded  by  a  view  surpassingly  beautiful. 

Across  the  Golden  Gate,  in  the  foreground,  and  to  the  left, 
stretch  the  wooded  hillsides  of  the  Presidio.  Farther  on  is 
spread  the  fairy-land  of  the  Panama-Pacific  Exposition. 
Then  comes  the  city,  and  to  eastward  of  it,  the  Bay  with  its 
islands  and  the  cities  of  the  eastern  shore. 


Ml   Tamalpals  lib 


The  crowning  feature  of  the  scene  is  San  Francisco  itself, 
or  at  least  the  part  of  it  that  appears  along  its  northern  edge. 
From  Harbor  View  to  Telegraph  Hill  the  houses  stretch,  block 
after  block  of  them,  climbing  the  hills  to  the  crenelated  sky- 
line in  great,  square  platoons.  Shipping  from  the  seven  seas 
is  scattered  along  the  city's  base.  Smoke  from  hundreds  of  fac- 
tories and  mills  goes  up  into  its  shifting  atmosphere.  As  you 
look  you  realize  that  this  is  the  one  grand  imperial  position 
for  the  western  metropolis  of  America — at  the  gate  to  the 
Pacific,  which  is  at  the  same  time  the  gate  from  the  Pacific 
to  the  western  world:  the  meeting  place  of  continent  and  ocean, 
a  position  of  power  and  command  almost  identical  in  every 
commercially  strategic  sense  with  the  position  of  New  York. 

You  will  be  fortunate  if,  on  your  return,  the  day  is  about 
done  and  you  get  the  ferry  back  to  San  Francisco  in  the  early 
evening.  It  is  a  wondrous  thing  to  see  the  city  veiled,  like 
a  sorceress,  in  twilight  mists,  the  sky  above  the  Golden  Gate 
red  with  the  glow  of  a  dying  California  day,  and  Alcatraz 
throbbing  its  five-second  pulses  of  light  to  homing  mariners 
twenty  miles  at  sea. 


MT.  TAMALPAIS  AND  THE  MUIR  WOODS. 

To  Mt.  Tamalpais  it  is  six  miles  by  ferry,  five  miles  on 
the  electric  train,  and  eight  on  the  Mt.  Tamalpais  and  Muir 
Woods  steam  railroad;  a  total  of  19  miles. 

From  every  good  view  point  in  San  Francisco  one  can  see, 
across  the  Golden  Gate,  this  lofty  height,  reared  a  clean  half- 
mile  above  the  waters  of  the  Bay.  To  be  exact,  it  is  2592 
feet  high,  only  48  feet  less  than  half  a  mile,  and  has  every 
effect  of  bemg  higher  because  it  rises  almost  directly  from 
sea  level.  And  if  the  vicinity  has  many  and  varied  beau- 
ties worth  hunting  out  and  enjoying  one  by  one,  Tamalpais 
shows  them  all  in  one  splendid  picture,  and  throws  on  the 
screen  for  good  measure  a  panorama  of  the  Ocean,  the  Faral- 


276 


Handbool(  for  San   Francisco 


COASTING   DOWX   TAMALPAIS. 


Mt.    Tamalpais  111 


lone  islands,  the  Golden  Gate,  the  Exposition  site,  the  Bay 
with  its  islands  and  ships,  the  cities  across,  the  estuary  of 
the  great  rivers,  Mts.  Hamilton,  Diablo  and  St.  Helena,  and, 
on  clear  days,  a  view  straight  across  the  interior  valley  of  Cali- 
fornia to  the  snow-capped  Sierra,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
away.  A  circular  walk  around  the  peak  shows  the  varied 
features  of  the  surrounding  country  in  rotation. 

Here  one  sees  what  might  be  called  the  ground  plan  of 
the  greatest  landlocked  harbor  on  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and 
of  the  region  surrounding  it,  destined  to  play  so  large  a  part 
in  the  affairs  of  men. 

So  much,  in  passing,  for  the  view.  But  the  view  is  by 
no  means  all  of  Tamalpais.  The  mountain  itself  is  a  domain 
of  delight.  Open-air  plays  are  given  in  glades  near  its  summit. 
Forests  clothe  its  shaggy  sides  with  laurel,  buckeye,  redwood, 
manzanita  and  that  shining  green-and-vermilion  "gallant  of  the 
glade,"  the  madrone.  Deer  and  other  wild  animals  run  wild 
on  the  slopes  of  Tamalpais,  within  a  few  minutes'  ride  of  San 
Francisco — and  probably  they  often  gaze  from  the  cover  of 
these  beautiful  forests  across  a  narrow  sheet  of  water,  upon 
the  great  white  city  that  bristles  on  the  opposite  hills.  All 
this  within  an  hour  of  Market  street.  Where  else  in  the 
world  will  you  find  primeval  forests  and  forest  life  rubbing 
elbows,  as  it  were,  with  a  great  modern  city  and  its  hustling 
activities  ? 

Tamalpais  is  a  grand  hike.  With  hob-nailed  boots,  a 
good  stick  and  a  haversack  for  your  lunch,  take  the  Saiisalilo 
ferry  from  the  foot  of  Market  street  and  the  Northxeestern 
Pacific  train  from  Sausalito  to  Mill  Valley,  whence  the  trail 
leads  up  the  mountain.  You  can  get  a  boat  as  early  as  6:45 
and  a  connecting  train  that  will  land  you  at  the  beginning  of 
the  climb  in  fifty  minutes. 

If  it  is  a  Sunday  the  trail  will  be  thronged.  If  it  is 
Saturday,  or  for  that  matter,  any  other  day  in  the  week,  you 
will  be  at  no  loss  for  trail  companions,  for  the  mountain  is  the 
playground    for    thousands    of    San    Franciscans    eager    as   you 


278 


Handbook  for  San  Francisco 


are  for  the  crystalline  air  and  the  inspiring  landscapes  that 
open  fresh  vistas  as  you  mount. 

One  can  return  to  the  city  the  same  day,  or  stop  over  night 
at  the  Tavern  of  Tamalpais  at  the  top. 

The  same  trail  part  of  the  way  will  make  another  day's 
fine   hiking,    for    a    branch    takes    off    from   West    Point,    well 


IN    TlIK    Ml'II!    \V(»(il)S. 


Tilibitls,    I'liolo. 


up  on  the  flank  of  the  mountain,  and  thence  descends  to  Wil- 
low Camp,  on  Bolinas  Bay,  where  there  are  accommodations 
for  the  night.  If  you  go  there  in  summer  to  remain  over,  it 
is  necessary  to  make  reservations  m  advance.  A  stage  line 
is  also  operated  to  Willow  Camp  and  Bolinas  from  West 
Point,  daily  from  June  to  September,  and  the  rest  of  the  year 
connecting  with  the  1  :45  trip  from  San  Francisco  on  Sat- 
urday and  2:45  on  Sunday. 


Ml    Tamalpais  279 


For  those  that  do  not  care  to  tramp  it,  a  most  convenient 
and  pleasant  way  to  reach  the  summit  is  provided  by  the 
Mount  Tamalpais  and  Muir  Woods  Railway,  which  runs 
from  Mill  Valley  to  Muir  Woods  and  the  Tavern.  This  is 
called  the  "crookedest  railway  in  the  world,"  and  is  inter- 
esting in  itself  as  an  example  of  difficult  railroad  construction. 

The  trip  takes  about  two  hours,  trains  connecting  with  the 
9:45  week  day  boat  and  train  for  Sausalito  and  Mill  Valley, 
and  the  8:45  on  Sunday.  A  return  can  be  made  the  same 
day,  but  it  is  a  pity  to  miss  the  glories  of  the  sunset  from 
the  top. 

On  foggy  days  it  is  well  worth  the  journey  to  look  down 
on  the  sunlit  tops  of  the  billows  of  grey  vapor  rolling  in 
through  the  Gate  and  mantling  the  city  and  the  bay. 

A  delightful  experience  is  the  coasting  ride  down  the  moun- 
tain by  the  "gravity  car"  in  the  early  morning  after  a  night 
at  the  tavern. 

Muir  Woods  can  be  reached  by  a  branch  line  which  leaves 
the  main  railroad  at  the  "double  bow  knot."  This  is  a  stately 
grove  of  Sequoia  Sempervirens,  or  California  redwood,  which 
should,  by  all  means,  be  seen  and  enjoyed  as  one  of  the  main 
attractions  of  the  Bay  region.  The  trees  are  undoubtedly 
thousands  of  years  old,  and  represent  the  grandest  forest 
growths  of  California,  with  the  exception  of  the  Big  Trees 
in  the  Sierra.  The  woods  are  a  government  reservation  and 
thus  are  preserved  for  the  enjoyment  of  the  public  for  all 
time.  There  is  a  cozy  inn  on  a  sunny  knoll  overlooking  the 
forest.  All  about  are  shaded  walks  leading  to  still  and  somber 
depths  among  the  redwoods,  oaks  and  madrones.  There  are 
about  295  acres  in  the  grove,  which  is  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful of  all  California's  show  places.  It  is  a  gift  to  the  nation, 
from  William  E.  Kent,  of  Kentfield,  Marin  county. 


280  Handbook  for  San   Francisco 

MARIN   AND  SONOMA  COUNTIES.     THE  TRI- 
ANGLE TRIP. 

Wild  mountain  scenery,  forests  where  deer  and  quail  abound, 
vales   of   exquisite   loveliness    in   which   San    Franciscans   have 
built    rural    homes    for    their    families    while    they    themselves 
"commute"    it   to    and    from   their   business,    are   to   be    found 
within   an   hour  of  the  city,   in  the   counties  extending  up   the  :| 
coast    from   the    northern   penmsula    partly   enclosmg   the   bay.  ; 
No  other  city  has  such  playgrounds  and  such  sylvan  retreats  j 
so  near  it. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  trips  that  can  be  made  in  this 
region  has  already  been  planned  for  the  convenience  of  trav- 
elers.    This  is  the  so-called  i 

"Triangle    Trip,''    of    the    Northwestern    Pacific    railroad,  J 
which  takes  you  from  the  Ferry  building  at  the  foot  of  Market  i 
street  to  Sausalito,  thence  through  San  Rafael,  Petaluma  and! 
Santa  Rosa  to  Fulton;  westward   from  Fulton  to  Guerneville 
and  Monte   Rio  on  the   Russian  river,   and  thence  southward 
by    Camp    Meeker,    Tomales,    Point    Reyes    station    and    San 
Anselmo   to   Sausalito   again,   getting  you   back   to   San    Fran-, 
cisco  at  7  p.  m.,  after  a  circuit  of  150  miles.  i 

The  trip  costs  $2.80,  except  Fridays  and  Saturdays,  when 
the  price  is  $2.50,   and  Sundays  when  it  is  $2.20. 

This  journey  skirts  the  foot  of  Mt.  Tamalpais,  takes  you 
northward  into  beautiful  hill  country  and  rolling  lands  set  with 
orchards  and  vineyards,  or  given  over  to  poultry  raising  on  a , 
colossal  scale,  and  through  part  of  the  beautiful  Russian  river  I 
valley,  where  the  bottom  lands  are  covered  with  the  light  j 
emerald  green  of  hop  fields,  and  the  mountain  sides  rising  above  j 
them  are  clothed  with  shaggy  forests  of  California  redwood. 

San  Rafael  was  once  the  site  of  an  old  Spanish  mission, 
few  traces   of  which   remain.      It   is  now   the   county   seat   of] 
Marin  county.      It  is  a  thriving  town,  of  many  fine  homes  and 
a   good   business  section,   and   is   much   frequented   by   summer  i 
visitors   from   the   city.      The   trip   to  San   Rafael   alone   takes] 


Marin  and  Sonoma  Counties  281 

about  an  hour,  and  a  visit  will  make  a  most  enjoyable  day  s 
outing,  possibly  with  luncheon  at  "Coppa's,"  down  the  main 
street,  and  a  side  trip  to  Pastori's,  near  San  Anselmo. 

Petaluma,  Sonoma  county,  is  the  world's  greatest  poultry 
center.  The  hens  in  this  vicinity  have  laid  as  many  as  a  hun- 
dred million  eggs  in  a  year,  and  one  incubator  establishment 
has  a  capacity  of  165,000  at  a  hatch.  It  is  a  rich  little  place, 
with  five  banks  and  four  newspapers.  Petaluma,  direct,  is 
less  than  two  hours  from  San  Francisco,  and  its  bridge  is  the 
head  of  navigation  on  Petaluma  creek.  The  Petaluma  and 
Santa  Rosa  Railway,  an  electric  line,  runs  from  here  to  Sebas- 
topol,  and  from  there  to  Forestville  by  one  branch  and  to 
Santa  Rosa  by  another.  Either  terminus  of  this  road  makes 
a  good  excursion  from  San  Francisco. 

Gertrude  Atherton  selected  Petaluma  as  possessing  the 
necessary  beauty  and  local  interest  for  the  scenes  of  some  of 
the  most  interesting  chapters  of  her  novel,  "Ancestors." 

Santa  Rosa,  county  seat  of  Sonoma  county,  is  a  handsome 
and  well  kept  town  of  about  12,000  inhabitants.  It  is  re- 
nowned as  the  home  of  the  great  plant  breeder,  Luther  Bur- 
bank,  and  the  scene  of  many  of  the  labors  whereby  he  created 
the  pitless  prune,  the  Shasta  daisy,  the  Burbank  and  Wickson 
plums,  the  spineless  cactus  and  other  invaluable  horticultural 
forms.  Travelers  stopping  at  Santa  Rosa  may  easily  find  his 
experimental  gardens,  but  are  warned  that  his  time  belongs 
to  humanity. 

Santa  Rosa  holds  a  great  Rose  Carnival  in  May,  when  it 
makes  displays  of  roses  that  can  hardly  be  matched  in  the 
world.      From   Fulton,   stages   leave   for   Mark  West   Springs. 

Cuerneville  and  Monte  Rio,  on  the  Russian  river,  are 
famous  resorts  and  pleasure  places  for  the  people  of  San 
Francisco,  Oakland  and  the  neighborhood.  At  Guerneville 
one  sees  a  remarkable  sight — the  tall  stumps  of  the  mighty 
redwood  forest  that  once  occupied  the  vicinity. 

Guerneville  is  72  miles  from  San  Francisco,  and  can  be 
reached  m  3Yl   hours.      A  round  trip  can  be  made  between 


282  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

8:45   in  the  morning  and   7:05  at  night,  with  3  hours  in  the  | 
town  and  vicinity.  i 

Near   Monte   Rio   the   Russian   river   is   at   its   loveHest,   its 
banks  clad  with  the  verdure  of  wild  grapes  and  rock  maples,  i 
against  a   deep   green   background  of   redwood    forest.      Doz-  I 
ens  of  boats  are  on  the  river  in  summer,  and  many  in  winter 
as  well,  when  the  water  is  not  too  high,  for  it  never  freezes  as  '< 
eastern  streams  do,   and,   all  year  round,   dwellers  in  the  hill-  , 
side  cottages  are  enjoying  life  in  the  open.     The  time  to  Monte 
Rio  from  San  Francisco  direct  is  about  four  hours. 

Up  river  from  Monte  Rio  a  short  distance  is  the  famous  ; 
grove  of  the  Bohemian  Club  of  San  Francisco,  where  the  ; 
world  famous  "Grove  Play"  is  held  yearly.  I 

Camp  Meeker  is  a  popular  resort  for  families  from  the  : 
city.  Summer  cottages  perch  on  steep  hill-sides  among  dense 
growths  of  redwood,  fir  and  madrone,  and  occasionally  great  , 
teams  of  oxen  can  be  seen  hauling  giant  saw  logs  to  mill. 
One  can  reach  Camp  Meeker  from  the  city  in  about  four  ; 
hours  and  make  a  round  trip  to  this  point  alone  between  ' 
8:15  a.  m.  and  7:35  p.  m.  j 

San  Anselmo  is  a  beautiful,  hill-sheltered  village,  with  one  j 
of  the  finest  climates  in  California.     The  Presbyterian  Orphan- 
age is  located  here,  and  the  handsome,  ivy-clad  stone  structures  ; 
seen    from   the   train    are   the   buildings   of   the   San    Francisco  , 
Presbyterian   Theological  Seminar]^.  i 

San  Anselmo  is  almost  in  the  center  of  Marin  county,  and  j 
also  of  Ross  valley. 

It  is  about   I  6  miles  and  a  little  over  an  hour  from  the  city. 
The   return   to  Sausalito   completes   the   "Triangle   Trip,"   but  i 
only  begins  on  the  beauties  and  interests  of  Marin  and  Sonoma  j 
counties. 

Inverness  and  Tomales  DaV.  A  favorite  resort  for  many  i 
a  San  Francisco  fisherman  and  duck  hunter.  In  the  woods  j 
on  its  western  shore  is  the  little  town  of  Inverness,  where  good  I 
boarding  houses  can  be  found,  and  where  one  M.  Peridot  j 
keeps  a  French  restaurant  of  excellence.  i 


Marin  and  Sonoma   Counties  283 

Mill  Valley  and  Ross  Valley  are  enchanting  suburban  set- 
tlements, snuggled  among  the  long  sloping  buttresses  of  Mt. 
Tamalpais.  Here  many  San  Franciscans  find  most  satisfying 
lural  conditions. 

These  places  are  on  different  branches  of  the  Northwestern 
Pacific.  Ross  can  be  reached  in  about  an  hour,  and  Mill 
Valley  in  less  than  that  time. 

Sonoma,  on  the  Sonoma  branch  of  the  Northwestern  Pa- 
cific, has  the  only  Spanish  mission  building  owned  by  the 
State — that  of  St.  Francis  de  Solano,  established  by  the 
padres  in  1823  as  a  health  resort  for  the  Indians.  It  is 
partly  restored,  and  its  thick  adobe  walls  and  tiled  roof  are 
very  interesting  as  examples  of  this  type  of  construction. 

The  town  is  charmingly  environed,  set  in  a  level  valley, 
amid  vine-clad  hills,  and  is  historically  interesting,  for  it  was 
here  that  a  party  of  American  settlers,  determined  to  achieve 
independence  from  Mexico,  and  abetted  by  John  C.  Fremont, 
raised  the  "Bear  Flag"  in  1 846.  On  a  huge  rock  in  the 
Plaza  is  a  tablet  commemorating  the  event. 

The  trip  to  Sonoma,  Boyes  Hot  Springs  or  Glen  Ellen 
can  easily  be  made  in  a  day,  leaving  San  Francisco  at  9:15 
a.  m.  and  getting  back  at  6:05  p.  m.,  with  time  to  spare. 
This  is  the  region  known  to  Jack  London's  readers  as  the 
"Valley  of  the  Moon."  The  sheer  Californian  loveliness  of 
the  district  where  the  prolific  vineyards  produce  some  of  the 
choicest  wines,  and  the  Grecian  beauties  of  nature  prompt  to 
all  sorts  of  outdoor  seasonal  festivals,  makes  the  visitor  rejoice 
that  he  came,  and  long  to  return. 

Healdshurg,  Cloverdale  and  the  Italian-Srviss  Colony  at 
Asti.  Beyond  Fulton,  the  farthest  point  north  on  the  "Tri- 
angle Trip"  described  above,  the  main  line  of  the  North- 
western Pacific  continues  northward  through  the  length  of  the 
Santa  Rosa  valley,  renowned  as  one  of  the  finest  parts  of 
California. 


284  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

Healdsburg,  66  miles  north  of  San  Francisco,  is  a  pros- 
perous place  with  locust  lined  streets  and  pretty  homes.  An 
auto  stage  runs  from  Healdsburg  to  the  Geysers. 

Above  Healdsburg,  at  Geyserville,  one  can  take  a  stage 
to  Skaggs  Springs. 

At  Asti,  half  a  dozen  miles  farther,  are  the  great  vine- 
yards and  wineries  of  the  Italian-Swiss  Colony,  where  a  cred- 
itable brand  of  champagne  is  being  produced  after  years  of 
study  and  the  importation  of  experts  from  Europe,  and  where 
the  gigantic  glass  lined  wine  vat  is  renowned  as  the  largest 
thing  of  the  kind  in  the  world. 

Along  this  stretch  of  road  between  Healdsburg  and  Clover- 
dale  ten  miles  of  grape  vines  are  trellised  on  the  right-of-way 
fences. 

Cloverdale,  at  the  head  of  the  valley  and  about  80  miles 
north  of  San  Francisco,  is  noted  for  its  citrus  fair,  which  occurs 
every  February. 

Here  the  orange  produces  blossom  and  fruit  in  every  door- 
yard,  and  the  annual  fair  consists  of  a  fine  exhibition  of 
oranges,  grape  fruit,  lemons,  olives,  olive  oil  and  wines.  No 
better  picture  of  plenty  can  be  found,  no  more  effective  dem- 
onstration of  the  mildness  of  the  California  climate. 

A  mile  out  of  Cloverdale,  in  Oat  Valley,  is  a  popular 
summer  resort,  the  "Old  Homestead,"  much  favored  by  peo- 
ple from  San  Francisco  and  Oakland. 

Leaving  San  Francisco  in  the  morning  at  7:45,  the  trip  to 
Cloverdale  can  be  made  before  noon,  and  a  train  returning 
can  be  taken  at  a  little  after  4  p.  m.,  which  will  land  the 
traveler  in  San  Francisco  before  8  o'clock  in  the  evening;  or 
the  journey  can  be  limited  to  any  intermediate  point.  From 
Cloverdale  one  can  make  the  trip  to  the  Geysers  of  California, 
go  from  the  Geysers  to  Calistoga,  and  return  to  San  Francisco 
by  running  down  the  Napa  valley. 

The  Ce\)sers.  Ten  miles  east  of  Cloverdale  is  one  of  the 
wonder  places  of  the  State:  the  Geysers  of  California.  Stages 
leave  Cloverdale  every  day  except  Sundays,   at    I  :30  p.    m.. 


Mare  Island  Nav^  Yard  285 

connecting  with  the  7:45  Sausalito  boat  and  train  from  San 
Francisco.  One  should  arrange  to  stay  at  least  a  day  or  two 
to  see  this  strange  region,  which  has  been  famous  among  Cali- 
fornians  for  generations.  There  are  boihng  springs  and  a  jet 
of  steam  that  rises  mountain-high.  The  place  has  a  good 
hotel,  and  bath  houses  where  you  can  get  natural  steam.  Ham- 
mam  and  mineral  baths.  There  is  a  swimming  lake  of  mineral 
waters  and  good  fishing  in  the  Pluton  river. 

For  those  wishing  to  visit  some  of  the  many  beautiful  resorts 
in  the  region  north  of  San  Francisco,  the  Northwestern  Pacific 
railroad  issues  a  descriptive  booklet  called  "Vacation,"  which 
can  be  obtained  at  874  Market  street. 


MARE  ISLAND  NAVY  YARD. 

Mare  Island  is  30  miles  from  San  Francisco,  and  the 
journey  there  takes  about  two  hours. 

This  is  a  one-day  excursion  from  San  Francisco,  consisting 
of  a  sixty-mile  round  trip  on  the  sheltered  waters  of  the  bay. 
No  visitor  should  omit  to  take  it  and  thus  broaden  his  knowl- 
edge of  the  way  in  which  the  United  States  Government  car- 
ries on  the  biggest  kind  of  construction  work  and  keeps  its 
fighting  ships  in  trim.  It  is  a  wonderfully  beautiful  and  inter- 
esting ride. 

A  good  way  to  make  this  excursion  is  to 

Take  the  Monticello  Steamship  Company's  steamer  "Napa 
City,''  leaving  from  the  foot  of  Merchant  street,  just  north 
of  the  Ferry  building  at  9:45  a.  m.,  for  Vallejo,  and  return 
from  Vallejo  at  3:20  p.  m.,  reaching  San  Francisco  at  5:20 
p.  m. 

Fare  for  the  round  trip  by  this  route  is  $1  to  Vallejo  and 
return,  with  an  extra  20  cents  for  the  Vallejo-Mare  Island 
ferry. 

These  excursions  are  personally  conducted,  by  a  guide  who 
points  out  the  different  points  of  interest  on  the  bay,   attends 


286  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

to  getting  yard  passes  at  the  ferry  landing  on  the  island,  and 
shows  visitors  about. 

Luncheon  can  be  had  on  the  boat  going  up,  or  in  Vallejo. 
No  luncheon  can  be  obtained  on  the  Government  ground. 

Vallejo  is  a  pleasant  town  of  about  15,000  people,  with 
three  newspapers,  two  banks,  and  a  yacht  club.  It  can  also 
be  reached  by  the  Southern  Pacific  railroad,  leaving  from 
the  Ferry  building  at  the  foot  of  Market  street,  running  up 
the  east  shore  of  the  bay  and  crossing  by  another  ferry  at 
Vallejo  Junction. 

Mare  Island  Nav^  Yard  occupies  a  strip  of  shore  on  a 
large  island  opposite  Vallejo,  from  which  it  is  separated  by 
the  opening  into  Napa  bay.  The  crossing  is  made  by  a  ferry 
from  a  landing  near  that  of  the  Monticello  Company.  This 
ferry  runs  every  hour. 

Visitors  are  allowed  in  the  yard  between  7  a.  m.  and 
sunset.  The  Navy  Yard  was  founded  in  1  854,  and  the  gov- 
ernment plant  represents  an  investment  of  about  $18,000,000. 


UP  THE  NAPA  VALLEY. 

This  trip,  through  one  of  the  loveliest  of  California's  fruit 
and  wine  districts,  can  be  made  in  a  day  from  San  Francisco, 
but  it  is  worth  giving  more  time  for  some  of  the  side  excur- 
sions that  can  be  made  from  points  on  the  line.  It  leads 
through  Napa  and  St.  Helena  to  Calistoga,  73  miles  from 
San  Francisco,  the  main  point  of  departure  for  the  celebrated 
Petrified  Forest,  Clear  Lake  and  the  resorts  of  Lake  county. 

Take  Monticello  Steamship  Company's  boat  to  Vallejo,  as 
per  Mare  Island  trip,  and  there  conned  rpith  San  Francisco, 
Napa  and  Calistoga  Electric  Railivay. 

The  trip  to  Calistoga  and  back  can  be  made  in  a  day, 
including  the  Petrified  Forest,  a  place  where  great  trees  have 
been  turned  to  stone.      Private  conveyance  from  Calistoga. 

This  trip  can  also  be  made  by  the  Southern  Pacific  rail- 
road,  along  the  Alameda  county  shore  to  Vallejo  Junction, 


Up   the  Napa   Valley  287 

thence  to  Napa  Junction  and  on  up  the  Napa  Valley.  It  takes 
about  3 1/2  hours.     To  go  this  way, 

Take  Oakland  ferry  from  foot  of  Market  street. 

The  Napa  Valley  is  a  five-mile-wide  strip  of  the  most 
fertile  soil  to  be  found,  poured  from  the  foot  of  Mt.  St, 
Helena  down  between  long  ridges  of  beautiful  timbered  hills 
about  35  miles  to  the  northern  shore  of  San  Pablo  bay,  30 
miles  north  of  San  Francisco.  Here  grow  in  profusion  and 
in  perfection  the  grape,  the  apricot,  the  prune,  every  variety  of 
plum,  the  olive  and  the  fig,  cherries,  pears,  peaches,  almonds 
and  walnuts.  Citrus  fruits  are  a  garden  delight,  though  it  is 
not  hot  enough  to  produce  them  on  a  commercial  scale. 

Good  roads  mark  the  prosperity  of  the  region.  Picturesque 
stone  bridges  span  the  streams.  The  hill  forests  are  full  of 
game,  and  the  lower  slopes  are  clad  with  orchards  and  vine- 
yards. Here  and  there  a  fine  stone  winery,  built  at  the 
entrance  to  thousands  of  feet  of  tunneled  wine  vaults,  suggests 
the  valley  of  the  Rhine. 

The  principal  towns  on  the  route  are  Napa,  the  county 
seat,  a  thriving  little  manufacturing  city  where  boots  and  shoes 
and  gloves  are  made,  and  where  the  State  has  a  great  hospital 
for  the  insane ;  St.  Helena,  with  its  sanitarium  and  its  White 
Sulphur  Springs  close  at  hand ;  and  Calistoga,  at  the  head 
of  the  valley.  On  the  way  up  one  passes  St.  Joseph's 
Agricultural  College,  and  the  Veterans'  Home  at  Yountville, 
where  many  pensioners  of  the  Civil  War  reside. 

From  Napa  there  is  an  auto  stage  to  Napa  Soda  Springs, 
a  favorite  resort  for  San  Franciscans. 

From  St.  Helena  one  reaches  Aetna  Springs,  another  fa- 
mous resort.     Nearby  is  the  well  known  St.  Gothard  Inn. 

From  Vallejo,  the  Vallejo  White  Sulphur  Springs  can  also 
be  reached  by  automobile  stage. 

The  Napa  Valley  makes  a  beautiful  automobile  trip.  From 
Calistoga  one  can  reach  the  Geysers  (see  index),  continue  to 
Cloverdale  and  return  down  the  Santa  Rosa  Valley  to  Sau- 
salito. 


288  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

THE  NETHERLANDS   ROUTE— UP  THE 
RIVER  TO  SACRAMENTO. 

If  California  is  an  Italy  it  also  contains  another  Holland, 
and  almost  another  Egypt.  In  the  interior  valley,  typical  delta 
deposits  have  been  laid  down  by  its  great  rivers  before  they 
reach  the  Bay,  and  in  this  lavish  soil  grows  a  profusion  of 
the  finest  garden  produce  to  be  found.  The  broad  "islands" 
formed  by  the  network  of  this  huge  drainage  system  are  prod- 
igally fertile.  In  this  region  are  the  world's  greatest  asparagus 
beds. 

The  Netherlands  Route,  Southern  Pacific,  offers  a  fine  trip 
by  a  commodious  river  boat  through  this  region  of  orchards, 
truck  gardens  and  melon  and  asparagus  plantations,  stretching 
125  miles  up  the  river  to  Sacramento,  the  Capital  of  the  State. 
Boats  leave  the  wharf  at  the  foot  of  Pacific  street  north  of 
the  Ferry  building  every  morning  except  Sundays,  taking  a 
day  to  make  the  journey  one  way;  and  at  1  :30  p.  m.  daily, 
except  Sundays,  reaching  Sacramento  at  4  a.  m.  (Passengers 
can  remain  on  the  boat  until  morning).  The  afternoon  trip 
makes  a  delightful  night  excursion,  especially  when  there  is  a 
moon.  The  steamers  have  comfortable  staterooms  and  good 
meals  are  served  in  the  dining  hall.  The  fare  to  Sacramento 
is  $1.50;  berths  and  meals  extra. 

With  the  Bay,  in  various  aspects,  you  are  probably  familiar, 
from  other  trips  about  it,  but  to  see  these  silvery  reaches  of 
the  river  in  the  evening  glow,  or  by  moonlight  after  the  sun 
has  dropped  behind  the  hills  of  Napa  county,  is  something 
to  be  remembered  all  your  life.  Except  for  the  lack  of  Arab 
villages  and  storied  temples,  the  stream  has  all  the  mystic 
loveliness  of  the  Nile,  framed  in  the  living  verdure  of  Cali- 
fornia. 

As  the  steamer  enters  Carquinez  Straits,  which  connect  San 
Pablo  Bay  and  Suisun  Bay,  it  comes  into  view  of  one  of  the 
most  interesting  engineering  works  in  the  country:  four  cob- 
web strands  of  wire  cable,  suspended  across  the  narrowest  part 


up   the  River  to  Sacramento 


289 


:\rnoxijfirrT  ox  tiik  Sacramento. 


of  the  channel,  between  huge  steel  towers,  which  look,  to 
the  stranger,  like  oil-well  derricks.  This  is  the  longest  sus- 
pension span  of  wire  in  the  world,  a  monument  to  California 
enterprise  in  the  long-distance  transmission  of  hydro-electric 
energy,  and  to  the  skill  of  Western  engineers  and  constructors. 
It  belongs  to  the  Pacific  Gas  &  Electric  Company. 

The  tower  on  the  north  side,  at  Dillon's  Point,  in  Solano 
county,  is  224  feet  in  height.  The  one  across  the  straits  at 
Eckley,  in  Contra  Costa  county,  is  shorter,  but  stands  on 
higher  ground.  Between  them  the  tenuous  steel  threads  span 
a  distance  of  4427  feet,  and  at  the  extreme  low  point  the 
lowest  one  hangs  206  feet  above  the  water,  or  high  enough  to 
permit  the  passage  of  the  tallest  ship  in  the  American  mer- 
chant marine. 

Over  these  wires  runs  the  unseen  energy  that  lights  the 
lamps  in  Oakland  and  Berkeley,  and  drives  the  trolley  cars 
in  the  cities  along  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Bay. 


290  Handboof^  for  San  Francisco 

This  line  was  built  in  1900  by  the  Bay  Counties  Power 
Company,  then  newly  formed  by  a  combination  of  power 
plants  on  the  Yuba  river;  and  in  April  of  the  following  year 
the  company  began  delivering  electric  current  from  Colgate, 
36  miles  above  Marysville,  to  Oakland,  1  42  miles  away,  and 
to  San  Jose,  a  distance  of  184  miles;  the  longest  transmission 
of  electricity  that  had  ever  been  accomplished  at  that  time. 

This  whole  northern  and  northwestern  shore  of  Contra  Costa 
county,    from    Richmond    to    Antioch,    is    undergoing    a    most     ; 
remarkable  industrial  development,  and  here,   from  Port  Costa 
eastward  along  the  south  shore  of  Suisun   Bay,   it  is  growing     \ 
up  with  small  towns  like  Bay  Point  and  Pittsburg,  which  will     1 
one  day  produce  a  large  volume  of  the  manufactures  of  the     i 

West.  : 

Opposite  Port  Costa  is  Benicia,  and  between  these  two  | 
points  the  trains  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Company  are  ferried  1 
across  the  straits  by  the  largest  car  ferry  in  the  world,  the  I 
"Solano."  I 

Your  boat  will  stop  at  Benicia,  where  the  Government  has 
an  arsenal  and  ordnance  depot.  I 

The   Sacramento    and    San    Joaquin    rivers    empty    into    the     ' 
eastern  end   of  Suisun   Bay.      In   these   waters   a   considerable 
salmon,   bass   and   shad   fishery   is   carried   on   by   Italians   and     [ 
Greeks,   who   may  be  observed   sailing   gracefully   and   swiftly 
about  in  their  lateen-sailed  boats,  the  peculiar  rig  of  the  Medi-     ' 
terranean  and  San  Francisco  Bay,  attending  their  long  nets  that     ; 
stretch  half  across  the  channel.      Jack  London  has  portrayed 
some  of  the  romance  of  their  occupation  in  his  "Tales  of  the     ! 
Fish  Patrol." 

Stops  are  made  at  Rio  Vista,  Isleton,  and  Walnut  Grove,  ; 
where  there  is  a  picturesque  Chinese  settlement  with  galleried  ' 
buildings  and  quaint  little  second-story  alleys  stretching  back  j 
from  the  levee.  J 

Sacramento  occupies  the  old  Sutter  grant,  the  site  of  the  ' 
first  considerable  white  settlement  in  the  interior  of  the  State.  I 
It  was  the  objective  of  many  of  the  trains  of  "prairie  schoon-     ! 


up   the  River   to  Sacramento  291 

ers"  bearing  the  early  Argonauts  and  their  famiHes  "across 
the  plains,"  for  here,  long  before  the  discovery  of  gold. 
General  John  H.  Sutter  had  established  a  colony  of  Swiss 
settlers  which  he  called  New  Helvetia,  and  which  he  made 
secure  against  the  Indians  by  means  of  an  old  adobe  fort, 
built  in  1  839.  The  fort  still  stands,  and,  with  its  museum  of 
pioneer  relics,  is  one  of  the  worth-while  show  places  of  the 
city.  Sutter  himself  was  the  employer  of  Marshall,  whom  he 
sent  into  the  mountains  to  build  a  saw  mill  at  Coloma,  in  El 
Dorado  county,  and  who  picked  up  in  the  mill  race  the 
nugget  which  made  so  much  of  the  subsequent  history  of  the 
State. 

The  first  railroad  in  the  State  was  built  from  Sacramento 
to  Folsom,  and  here  was  born  the  project  for  a  transcontinental 
rail  line. 

There  is  much  to  be  seen  here.  The  State  Capitol  is  an 
imposing  structure  and  from  its  dome  one  can  get  grand  views 
of  the  surrounding  valley,  the  delta  lands  and  islands  and 
the  far  off  snow-capped  mountains.  The  State  Library  in 
this  building  contains  155,780  volumes,  and  there  is  a  very 
extensive  law  library.  The  park  about  the  Capitol  embraces 
33  acres  and  contains  1  I  6  varieties  of  trees  and  shrubs  from 
all  parts  of  the  world,  besides  the  memorial  grove  of  trees 
collected  from  the  battlefields  of  the  Civil  War. 

In  the  Capitol  grounds  is  the  State  Insectary,  which  yearly 
collects,  breeds  and  distributes  millions  of  fruit-protecting  in- 
sects. This  work  has  probably  been  farther  advanced  in 
California  than  anywhere  else  in  the  world,  and  has  attracted 
the  attention  of  Government  scientists  from  France,  Spain, 
Japan,  Formosa  and  South  Africa. 

There  is  an  ostrich  farm  in  Sacramento,  with  from  fifty  to 
a  hundred  birds. 

Another  attraction  is  the  Crocker  Art  Gallery,  gift  of  Mrs. 
Margaret  E.  Crocker,  and  open  to  the  public  free  of  charge. 


292 


Handbook  for  San  Francisco 


RIVER.  RAIL  AND  RIVER:     TO  SACRAMENTO 
AND  STOCKTON. 

A  somewhat  longer  expedition  than  the  Netherlands  trip, 
one  that  combines  in  one  panorama  the  great  river  system  of 
the  State,  the  Capital  of  California,  and  the  fertile  farming 
country   lying   between   Sacramento   and   Stockton,    is   what   is 


TlIK   ST.VI'K  CAI'TTiiI.,    AT   SACItAM  KNi'O. 

called  the  "Triple  S  Trip."  It  affords  a  delightful  travel 
experience  of  two  or  three  days  and  is  one  of  the  most  inter- 
esting excursions  that  can  be  made  out  of  San  Francisco. 

One  can  leave  the  city  on  Friday  night,  or  Saturday  night, 
and  return  by  Monday  morning  or  Monday  night,  having 
covered  250  miles  on  two  great  rivers  and  a  fine,  modern 
electric  car  propelled  by  the  energy  of  falling  streams  in  the 
Sierra  Nevada  mountains.  The  fare  is  $2.50  for  the  round 
trip,  with  extras  for  berth  and  meals. 


Sacramento  and  StocJfton  293 

The  first  leg  of  the  journey  is  to  Sacramento,  the  State 
Capital,  on  one  of  the  steamers  of  the  California  Transporta- 
tion Company,  which  leaves  Jackson  street  wharf,  north  of  the 
Ferry  building  and  just  beyond  the  Chief  Wharfinger's  office, 
at  5  p.  m.  on  week  days,  arriving  at  Sacramento  at  6  the 
following  morning. 

Information  about  Sacramento  itself  will  be  found  in  the 
previous  chapter.  At  Eighth  and  K  streets  at  10:15,  12:15 
or  2:15,  you  take  the  Central  California  Traction  Company's 
car  for  a  ride  of  fifty  miles  or  more,  southward  through  the 
"land  of  the  flaming  Tokay"  to  Stockton.  At  Coffing,  on 
this  route,  you  pass  the  largest  vineyard  of  Tokay  grapes  in 
the  world,  1 ,200  acres,  all  under  irrigation.  The  line  passes 
the  Cosumnes  river,  and  a  short  distance  beyond  is  a  wine  vine- 
yard of  2,100  acres  extending  southward  for  three  miles. 
Then  you  get  into  the  real  Tokay  grape  country  and  see 
miles  and  miles  of  vineyards  and  orchards  stretching  away  on 
every  side. 

Stockton  is  a  city  of  about  35,000  inhabitants,  the  "capi- 
tal" of  the  northern  San  Joaquin  valley,  and,  of  old,  the  main 
supply  depot  for  the  "southern  mines"  on  the  mother  lode. 
The  Sacramento  and  the  San  Joaquin  are  really  one  valley, 
and  San  Francisco  Bay  receives  the  waters  of  both.  Stockton 
has  long  been  the  head  of  a  great  grain  growing  section,  some  of 
which  is  now  changing  to  horticulture,  but  not  before  making 
this  thriving  little  city  a  great  flour-milling  center.  Here  also 
was  invented  and  developed  the  Gargantuan  harvesting  ma- 
chinery that  has  astonished  the  world  outside  of  California ; 
and  the  application  of  the  traction  engine  to  the  work  of  plow- 
ing and  reaping  has  been  carried  farther  here  than  anywhere 
else. 

It  is  said  that  more  barley  is  grown  within  25  miles  of 
Stockton  than  in  any  similar  area  in  the  United  States. 

Steamers  of  the  California  Navigation  and  Improvement 
Company  leave  Stockton  daily  except  Saturdays  at  6  p.  m., 
from   the  wharf  directly   opposite   the   Hotel   Stockton.      The 


294  Handbook  for  San   Francisco 

trip  down  the  San  Joaquin  to  the  Bay  is  fully  as  interesting 
as  that  up  the  Sacramento,  threading,  as  it  does,  what  is 
aptly  called  the  Holland  of  America.  The  great  islands, 
reclaimed  and  protected  by  the  levees,  produce  incredible 
yields  of  asparagus,  beans,  corn,  onions  and  potatoes,  which 
form  the  cargoes  of  numberless  small  craft  that  keep  every 
water  lane  busy. 


SAN  JOSE  AND  THE  SANTA  CLARA  VALLEY. 

(Pronounce  it  San  Hosay. ) 

Beginning  twenty-five  or  six  miles  south  of  San  Francisco 
and  stretching  southeastwardly  for  possibly  fifty  more,  the 
Santa  Clara  Valley  embraces  the  most  fertile  and  salubrious 
part  of  California  yet  developed. 

Imagine  a  climate  so  bland  and  genial  that  standard  roses 
grow  into  trees,  while  oranges  and  lemons  flourish  along  the 
foothills.  Imagine  a  county  that  supports  more  than  half  a 
million  tender  apricot  trees,  that  produces  more  than  half  the 
prunes  grown  in  the  United  States,  that  sends  yearly  to  the  mar- 
kets of  the  world,  including  such  distant  cities  as  New  York, 
Paris,  Berlin,  London.  140,000,000  pounds  of  dried  fruits, 
30,000.000  pounds  of  canned  goods,  200,000,000  of  fresh 
fruit;  and  where,  every  spring,  the  whole  region  looks  as 
though  it  had  been  drowned  in  a  tidal  wave  of  dazzling, 
scented  apple,  apricot,  cherry,  peach,  plum  and  almond  blos- 
soms; one  hundred  and  twenty-five  square  miles  of  bloom,  on 
seven  million  trees,  in  mid-March  when  all  over  the  eastern 
states  the  plumbers  are  thawing  out  the  water  pipes  with  gaso- 
line  torches. 

"Personally,"  says  E.  Alexander  Powell,  "I  shall  always 
think  of  the  Santa  Clara  as  a  sleeping  maiden,  fragrant  with 
perfume  and  intoxicatingly  beautiful,  lying  in  a  carven  bed 
formed  by  the  mountains  of  Santa  Cruz,  curtained  by  fleecy 
clouds,   her   coverlet   of  eider   down,   tinted  with   rose,   quilted 


The  Santa  Clara  Valley 295 

with  green,  edged  with  yellow ;  her  pillow  the  sun-kissed  waters 
of  San  Francisco  Bay.  When  you  come  closer,  however, 
you  find  that  the  coverlet  which  conceals  her  gracious  form  is 
in  reality  an  expanse  of  fragrant  blossoms;  that  the  green  tufts 
are  the  live  oaks  which  rise  at  intervals  above  the  orchards  of 
cherry,  peach  and  prune;  and  that  the  yellow  edging  is  the 
California  poppies  which  clothe  the  encircling  hills." 

Beginning  at  the  northern  end,  where  Senator  Stanford  on 
his  Palo  Alto  farm  bred  his  great  trotting  horses,  and  where 
the  magnificent  buildings  of  Leland  Stanford  Junior  University 
now  stand,  to  Gilroy  at  the  southern  end,  with  its  famous  hot 
springs  and  its  seed  farms  in  the  neighborhood,  the  county  is 
set  thick  with  pretty  towns.  Electric  car  lines  radiate  from 
San  Jose  into  all  this  favored  region,  and  entertaining  rides 
can  be  taken  to  Santa  Clara  and  its  college  and  mission  site, 
to  Los  Gatos  and  to  Saratoga. 

San  Jose  itself,  49  miles  south  of  San  Francisco,  is  easily 
reached  by  several  Southern  Pacific  trains  a  day  from  Third 
and  Townsend  depot.  Before  1915  the  State  highway  will 
connect  it  with  the  city  by  a  fine  automobile  road.  There  is  a 
population  of  about  33,000,  with  beautiful  homes  and  gar- 
dens, a  fine  normal  school  and  an  unexcelled  public  school 
system. 

Every  year  in  blossom  time  a  festival  is  held  at  Saratoga 
that  rivals  the  feast  of  cherry  blossoms  at  old  Tokio.  The 
town  is  easily  reached  from  San  Jose  and  well  repays  a  visit. 
The  festival  demonstrations  extend  southward  as  far  as  Los 
Gatos,  and  the  Sunday  afternoon  automobile  processions  along 
the  roads  during  this  period  are  a  remarkable  sight. 

All  through  the  summer  in  this  favored  land  one  sees  along 
the  hillsides  and  in  the  pastures  great  beds  of  glowing  orange 
color  which  are  the  wild  California  poppy,  or  Eschscholtzia, 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  all  the  wild  flowers,  and  the 
official  flower  of  the  State. 

Santa  Clara  is  the  oldest  town  in  the  Santa  Clara  Valley. 
It  is  a  place  of  beautiful  homes,   an  old  mission  church,   the 


296  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

site  of  the  University  of  Santa  Clara;  and  near  it  are  some 
of  the  finest  seed  farms  in  the  world,  producing  sweet  pea 
seed,  lettuce,  radish,  onion,  canary  bird  seed  and  many  more, 
by  the  carload.  The  town  is  connected  with  San  Jose,  which 
is  three  miles  distant,  by  trolley,  and  between  the  two  runs 
the  Alameda,  the  shaded  walk  of  the  mission  fathers  who 
founded  Santa  Clara  Mission  in   1777. 


MT.    HAMILTON    AND    THE    LICK    OBSERVA- 
TORY OF  THE  UNIVERSITY  OF 
CALIFORNIA. 

The  Lick  Observatory  is  situated  on  the  summit  of  Mt. 
Hamilton,  Santa  Clara  county,  at  an  altitude  of  4,209  feet. 
It  is  thirteen  miles  due  east  of  San  Jose,  with  which  it  is  con- 
nected by  a  fine  mountain  road  whose  easy  grades  take  27 
miles  to  make  the  ascent.  Leaving  Third  and  Townsend 
depot,  the  trip  to  San  Jose  takes  from  an  hour  and  fifteen  to 
an  hour  and  thirty  minutes. 

The  Mt.  Hamilton  Auto  Stage  (R.  W.  Eaton,  proprietor, 
323  South  First  street,  San  Jose),  leaves  that  city  about  8:45 
in  the  morning  every  day  except  Sunday,  reaching  Mt.  Ham- 
ilton before  noon.  Returning,  the  stage  leaves  the  top  at  I  :30 
p.  m.,  and  reaches  San  Jose  at  4  p.  m.  The  round  trip  fare 
is  $5.  Luncheon  can  be  obtained  at  Smith's  Creek  hotel,  part 
way  up.  The  stage  will  call  for  passengers  at  any  of  the 
leading  San  Jose  hotels,  and  bookings  can  be  made  by  phone 
or  through  the  hotel  office. 

The  observatory  is  open  to  day  visitors  until  sundown,  but 
not  thereafter,  except  Saturday  evenings.  On  Saturday  it  is 
open  to  visitors  that  arrive  before  9  p.  m.  Arrangements  can 
be  made  with  the  Mt.  Hamilton  Auto  Stage  for  the  Saturday 
evening  trip,  or  for  day  trips.  For  the  Saturday  evening  trip, 
stages  leave  San  Jose  at  4  p.  m.  and  return  about  midnight. 


The  Lick  Observator})  297 

The  mountain  grade  discloses  an  inspiring  view  over  the 
Santa  Clara  valley  and  the  Santa  Cruz  mountains. 

Since  the  advent  of  the  automobile  the  number  of  day  vis- 
itors at  the  observatory  greatly  exceeds  the  number  of  Satur- 
day evening  visitors.  Those  arriving  by  day  have  opportunities 
to  see  several  of  the  principal  instruments  as  well  as  the  num- 
erous intensely  interesting  photographs  of  celestial  objects  dis- 
played in  the  corridors. 

Saturday  evening  visitors  are  privileged,  weather  permitting, 
to  look  through  the  1  2-inch  and  36-inch  telescopes. 

There  are  no  charges  for  admission. 

The  gauge  of  the  importance  of  this  observatory  was  laid 
down  as  far  as  it  was  possible  to  do  so  by  its  founder,  James 
Lick,  the  San  Francisco  philanthropist,  in  the  deed  of  trust 
by  which  he  provided  for  it;  in  which  he  directs  the  trustees 
to  expend  $700,000  for  the  most  powerful  telescope  yet  made, 
together  with  the  observatory. 

Lick  was  one  of  the  earliest  of  the  pioneers,  having  come 
to  San  Francisco  in  1847.  He  made  millions  out  of  San 
Francisco  real  estate,  died  in  1876,  leaving  millions  to  public 
institutions,  and  is  appropriately  buried  under  the  pedestal  of 
the  great  refracting  telescope  on  the  mountain's  top.  There 
is  a  fine  bronze  relief  of  him  in  the  vestibule  of  the  Mechanics 
Institute  building,  on  Post  street,  between  Montgomery  and 
Kearny. 

It  is  well  known  that  this  telescope,  of  which  the  objective 
lense  is  36  inches  in  diameter,  was  the  largest  refractor  ever 
built  when  the  Clarks  of  Cambridgeport,  Mass.,  turned  out  the 
flawless  glass.  Through  it,  Bernard  discovered  the  Fifth  Satel- 
hte  of  Jupiter.  What  is  not  so  well  known  is  that  the  great 
Crossley  reflector  has  been  sent  from  England  to  Mt.  Hamil- 
ton, where  the  large  percentage  of  clear  nights  has  vastly 
increased  its  efficiency,  and  is  housed  but  a  short  distance  from 
the  Lick  telescope.  The  finest  pictures  of  Halley's  comet  were 
made  here,  and  by  means  of  the  Crossley  glass  the  sixth  and 
seventh  satellites  of  Jupiter  were  discovered. 


298  Handbooff  for  San  Francisco 

The  director  of  the  observatory  is  Prof.  W.  W.  Campbell, 
who  has  associated  with  him  at  Mt.  Hamilton,  R.  H.  Tucker, 
R.  G.  Aitken,  the  great  authority  on  double  stars,  W.  H. 
Wright  and  H.  D.  Curtis,  and  a  number  of  assistants  and  fel- 
lows of  the  University. 


DOWN  THE  OCEAN  SHORE  RAILROAD. 

From  San  Francisco  to  the  end  of  the  line,  at  Tunitas  Glen, 
is  38  miles,  and  the  trip  to  that  point  takes  two  hours  and  20 
minutes — one  way. 

From  the  depot  at  Twelfth  and  Mission  streets,  in  San 
Francisco,  the  Ocean  Shore  railroad  cuts  across  the  city  south- 
westerly and  then  runs  thirty-eight  miles  down  a  rock-bound 
coast,  over  bold  headlands,  past  sandy  beaches,  and  across 
entrancing  little  valleys.  Another  section  runs  northward  from 
the  city  of  Santa  Cruz.  At  present  there  is  a  considerable  gap 
between  them,  but  the  line  here  will  soon  be  completed,  and 
it  will  then  give  direct  rail  transportation  to  San  Gregorio, 
Pescadero,  and  the  famous  Pebble  Beach. 

Several  trains  a  day  are  operated  on  the  northern  or  San 
Francisco-Tunitas  section. 

Every  mile  of  this  road  exhibits  scenery  of  an  imposing 
grandeur  and  an  entrancing  loveliness,  diversified  at  every  turn 
the  train  makes.  One  of  the  pleasant  sights  is  Pedro  Valley, 
a  veritable  thicket  of  artichokes.  There  is  good  surf  fishing 
all  along,  and  trout  in  such  streams  as  San  Pedro,  Purisima, 
Lobitos  and  Tunitas  creeks,  and  San  Gregorio  creek  and 
lagoon. 

On  Half  Moon  Bay  is  an  old  Spanish  settlement,  charming 
with  its  atmosphere  of  the  past  surviving  in  these  busy  times. 

There  are  bath  houses  at  Salada,  Moss  Beach,  Princeton 
and  Granada.  The  beaches  at  nearly  every  station  are  shel- 
tered and  warm,  and  there  is  an  absence  of  the  undertow  that 
often  makes  bathjng  in  the  surf  dangerous  elsewhere. 


Santa  Cruz 


299 


At  many  of  the  stations  there  are  comfortable  inns,  operated 
on  reasonable  tariffs,  where  one  can  get  good  sea-food  dmners, 
and  accommodations  for  the  night. 


•  Sir*  ^    '  ■ 


SANTA    (KtZ   (  AM\i'    A\li    l'.\rili\i 


SANTA  CRUZ,  AND  ITS  BIG  TREES. 

Seventy-six  miles  from  San  Francisco. 

Three  hours  and  a  half  by  rail  from  the  Southern  Pacific 
depot  at  Third  and  Townsend  streets  will  bring  you  to  the 
seaside  town  of  Santa  Cruz,  on  Monterey  bay.  Here  is  a 
fine  casino,  a  broad  bathing  beach,  a  large  swimming  tank, 
all  sorts  of  summer  resort  attractions,  good  fishing  in  the 
bay,  several  good  hotels,  (one  with  fine  golf  links)  and  a 
general  atmosphere  of  holiday-making,  during  the  season.  It 
is  said  that  the  Casino  and  bathing  pavilion  surpass  anything 
of  the  sort  in  America.  The  town  is  made  up  of  pretty  homes, 
and  in  its  suburbs  are  many  fine  villas  belonging  to  wealthy 
San  Franciscans.     A  day  can  be  spent  most  enjoyably  in  an 


300  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

excursion  from  San  Francisco  to  Santa  Cruz  and  return. 

Six  miles  out  of  this  seaside  city,  and  seventy  miles  south 
of  San  Francisco,  is  the  Fremont  grove  of  coast  range  red- 
vv^ood  trees.  Sequoia  Sempervirens,  that  compare  not  unfavor- 
ably for  size  with  the  Big  Trees  in  the  Sierra,  some  of  them 
being  twenty  feet  through  the  base,  and  300  feet  high.  South- 
ern Pacific  trains  stop  at  this  grove,  and  there  is  a  pleasant 
club  house  where  meals  are  served. 

A  trip  can  be  arranged  so  that  one  can  have  an  hour  at 
the  grove,  arrive  in  Santa  Cruz  a  little  after  12,  have  an  hour 
in  Santa  Cruz  and  return  to  San  Francisco  in  time  for  dinner; 
or  spend  five  hours  in  Santa  Cruz  and  return  to  San  Francisco 
in  the  evening,  arriving  a  little  after  9  o'clock. 

From  Santa  Cruz  one  can  also  reach  the  Big  Basin,  or 
California  Redwood  Park,  a  most  beautiful  primeval  Califor- 
nia forest  of  3,800  acres. 


DEL  MONTE,  MONTEREY,  PACIFIC  GROVE. 

Del  Monte  is  121  miles  from  San  Francisco  by  rail,  and 
the  trip  takes  three  hours  and  forty-five  minutes,  one  way. 

These  resorts,  each  famous  in  a  different  manner,  are 
located  on  Monterey  Bay,  and  are  so  situated  that  each  is  an 
added  attraction  of  the  others.  They  are  connected  with  one 
another  by  trolley,  and  can  all  be  reached  from  San  Fran- 
cisco by  the  Southern  Pacific  railroad  from  Third  and  Town- 
send  depot.  Any  one  of  them  will  form  a  most  enjoyable 
objective  for  a  day's  outing,  with  a  stop  of  three  or  four  hours 
at  the  other  end  and  a  return  to  San  Francisco  by  nightfall. 

The  Hotel  Del  Monte  is  one  of  the  finest  tourist  resorts  on 
the  coast,  offering  year-round  golf  on  a  full  professional  course 
of  eighteen  holes  and  6,000  yards,  all  grass  greens;  bathing 
in  its  great  indoor  tank,  filled  with  warm  salt  water;  polo 
grounds,  croquet  and  archery  fields,  fine  bitumen  tennis  courts 
on  which  coast  championship  tournaments  are  held ;  a  bowling 


Del  Monte  and  Monterey  301 

green,  and  other  outdoor  attractions.  There  is  an  art  gallery 
where  California  painters  exhibit  characteristic  bits  of  work, 
and  there  is  also  a  great  pipe  organ.  The  hotel  has  500 
rooms  and  seats  750  in  its  dining  hall. 

The  benign  climate  of  this  region  has  made  possible  the 
most  beautiful  effects  in  the  125  acres  of  the  Del  Monte 
lawns  and  gardens,  which  contain  over  1,360  varieties  of 
plant  life,  including  examples  of  all  the  principal  trees  of  the 
Pacific  Coast,  with  a  large  collection  of  Arizona  cactus,  aloe 
and  yucca.  The  statement  has  often  been  made  and  never, 
to  our  knowledge,  contradicted,  that  these  are  the  most  beau- 
tiful gardens  in  the  world. 

The  Del  Monte  Express  leaves  the  Third  and  Townsend 
depot  at  2  p.  m.,  and  arrives  at  the  hotel  in  time  for  dinner. 

Monterey,  "wrapped  in  the  mantle  of  old  traditions,"  was 
the  first  capital  of  California  and  is  now  a  town  of  about 
5,000  people.  It  is  a  mile  beyond  Del  Monte,  and  easily 
reached  by  trolley  from  there.  There  are  many  relics  of  the 
Spanish  regime,  and  of  the  period  of  transition  to  American 
domination;  such  as  the  old  Spanish  custom  house  over  which, 
in  1 846,  Commodore  Sloat  raised  the  first  American  flag  in 
California ;  Colton  Hall,  in  which  was  drafted  the  first  consti- 
tution of  the  present  State ;  an  adobe  building  which  was  the 
first  theater  in  California,  and  in  which  Jenny  Lind  once 
sang;  the  old  Washington  hotel;  and  near  it  the  house  of  old 
Jules  Simoneau,  in  which  Robert  Louis  Stevenson  lived.  All 
about,  except  in  certain  quarters  that  have  felt  the  push  of 
modern  improvement,  is  the  air  of  age  and  settled  things  with 
their  foundations  in  California's  romantic  past.  Old  roses 
grown  almost  to  trees,  clamber  over  the  lichened  fences  and 
garden  walls — one  of  them  said  to  have  been  planted  by 
General  William  T.  Sherman,  while  paying  gallant  attentions 
to  a  certain  senorita  who  tended  it  always  from  that  day;  or 
so,  at  least,  the  story  goes.  Here  is  also  the  mission  church 
San  Carlos  de  Borromeo. 


302  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

There  is  a  Presidio,  or  military  post,  at  Monterey,  where 
infantry  is  stationed,  so  that  the  streets  are  apt  to  be  gay  with 
uniforms.  Within  the  reservation  is  a  monument  erected  by 
Mrs.  Leland  Stanford  to  the  memory  of  Padre  Junipero  Serra, 
the  pioneer  of  missions  and  missionaries,  who  landed  here  in 
1  770,  and  who  is  buried  at  the  Mission  San  Carlos  Borromeo, 
or  Carmelo,  not  far  away.  Monterey  was  at  one  time  the 
site  of  an  active  whale  fishery.  A  California  grayback  whale 
can  occasionally  be  seen  "blowing"  off  shore,  and  great  whale 
bones  ornament  some  of  the  gardens  about  the  town.  Nearby 
are  two  large  sardme  canneries. 

Three  miles  beyond  Monterey  by  rail,  (although  the  two 
towns  are  rapidly  building  together)  and  well  out  on  the 
peninsula  forming  the  southern  boundary  of  the  bay,  is 

Pacific  Grove,  scene  of  the  annual  meeting  of  the  Pacific 
Coast  Chautauqua,  the  Women's  Christian  Temperance  Union, 
the  California  Conference  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church, 
and  the  Students'  Conference  of  the  Young  Men's  Christian 
Association. 

This  is  a  sort  of  cottage  city  by  the  sea,  a  place  of  3,000 
permanent  inhabitants  that  began  as  a  camp  meeting  ground. 
So  attractive  is  it  that  its  summer  population  is  estimated  at 
15,000.  The  summer  school  of  Leland  Stanford  Junior  Uni- 
versity is  held  here,  and  because  of  the  wealth  of  sea  life,  here 
is  located  that  university's  marine  laboratory,  while  the  Uni- 
versity of  California  is  preparing  to  establish  one  on  an  eight- 
acre  site  recently  acquired. 

At  Pacific  Grove  there  is  a  very  interesting  marine  museum. 
Monterey  Bay  is  like  one  great  aquarium,  so  prolific  are  its 
waters,  its  beaches  and  its  rocky  coves.  Here  one  can  ride  in 
the  glass-boltomed  boat  and  from  within  a  darkened  chamber 
gaze  into  wonderful  submarine  grottoes  where  the  anemone 
and  star-fish  grow,  where  sea  urchins  empurple  the  rocks  and 
strange  plants  with  a  fruitage  like  myriads  of  gold  nuggets 
move  to  and  fro  in  the  weaving  currents. 


San  Juan  Baulisia  303 


There  are  two  good  hotels  at  Pacific  Grove,  and  board  can 
be  obtained  at  a  number  of  private  houses.  There  are  plenty 
of  boats,  and  there  is  good  fishing.  Over  150  species  of  food 
fish  are  found  in  the  bay,  including  the  fighting  king  salmon. 

Sea  and  shore  exhibit  strange  moods  that  attract  the  artist 
and  have  furnished  subjects  for  some  of  the  best  of  our  Califor- 
nia canvases — vistas  openmg  toward  the  blue  bay,  sugar-white 
sand  dunes,  and  jagged  bluffs  topped  by  the  characteristic 
Monterey  cypresses  which  throw  their  wind-tossed  arms  aloft 
like  distracted  ghosts. 

The  Seventeen-Mile  Drive  is  a  famous  excursion,  by  tally-ho 
or  automobile,  which  shows  the  unusual  beauties  of  the 
peninsula  to  advantage,  and  is  especially  weird  and  fascinating 
at  night. 

The  Mission  San  Carlos  de  Rio  Carmelo  is  near  the  town  of 
Carmel-by-the-Sea,  which  has  become  a  colony  of  artists  and 
literary  lights.  At  the  mission  one  can  see  many  interesting 
relics,  including  the  robes  of  Junipero  Serra,  father  of  all  the 
missions  of  California,  who  is  buried  there. 

Pebble  Beach,  with  a  good  grill  serving  sea  food.  Moss 
Beach,  where  one  gets  delicious  orange-colored  mussels,  and 
other  places  along  shore,  afford  good  opportunities  for  the 
study  of  conchology.  The  abalone,  a  large  univalve  with  a 
highly-colored  iridescent  shell,  abounds  in  these  waters.  It  is 
fine  eating,   and  the  shells  make  beautiful  souvenirs. 


SAN    JUAN    BAUTISTA,    MOST    INTERESTING 
OF  THE  MISSIONS. 

Less  than  a  morning's  journey  from  San  Francisco,  in  the 
San  Juan  Valley  of  San  Benito  county  (pronounced  San 
Whan,  and  San  Baneto),  is  the  mission  that  best  recalls  the 
scenes  of  Spanish  and  Indian  life  in  California. 

The  old  Padres  and  the  Indians  are  gone,  but  the  setting 
remains,  unspoiled  by   "improvements"  which  have   mercifully 


304  Handhoo}(  for  San   Francisco 

taken  place  a  block  away  and  out  of  sight.  The  old  mission 
buildings  overlook  the  same  plaza  as  of  yore.  An  ancient 
Spanish  mansion  fronts  them,  in  which  Fremont,  the  "Path- 
finder," once  lived;  and  along  one  side  of  the  plaza  still  stand 
a  couple  of  galleried  adobe  houses,  one  of  which  has  become 
a  most  comfortable  inn. 

Mission  and  plaza  and  hospitable  old  tavern  stand  upon  a 
low  bench  of  the  hills,  overlooking  a  level  valley  of  such  fer- 
tility that  a  large  seed  concern  now  uses  it  to  grow  seeds,  so 
that  in  June  it  is  a  wilderness  of  color  and  perfume.  The 
sweet  pea  display  here  in  May  and  June  is  something  won- 
derful. 

The  mission  church  is  most  interesting,  and  in  the  rooms 
that  open  off  the  cloistered  portico  are  relics  of  early  Cali- 
fornia ;  an  ancient  spinet ;  old  music  scores  with  huge  black 
notes  to  be  read  from  one  copy  by  the  whole  choir;  cunning 
convex  mirrors  from  Paris  that  hung  before  the  altar  and 
revealed  to  the  priest  any  communicant  that  misbehaved  in 
church;  a  curious  old  viol;  and  an  antique  hand-organ, 
actuated  by  a  crank  and  bellows  and  making  music  through 
true  organ  pipes,  to  call  the  Indian  laborers  from  the  valley 
when  the  day  was  done. 

The  mission  was  founded  in  1  797,  and  is  said  to  have 
ministered  to  the  spiritual  needs  of  some  4,000  Indians  in  its 
time.  Helen  Hunt  Jackson,  author  of  "Ramona,"  says  of 
it  in  her  book  on  "The  Missions  of  California:" 

At  San  Juan  Bautista  there  lingers  more  of  the  atmosphere  of  the 
olden  time  than  is  to  be  found  in  any  other  place  in  California. 

The  mission  church  is  well  preserved;  its  grounds  are  enclosed  and 
cared  for;  in  its  gardens  are  still  blooming  roses  and  vines,  in  the  shelter 
of  palms,  and  with  the  old  stone  sun  dial  to  tell  time. 

In  the  sacristy  are  oak  chests,  full  of  gorgeous  vestments  of  brocades, 
with  silver  and  gold  laces.  The  church  fronts  south,  on  a  little,  green, 
locust-walled  plaza — the  sleepiest,  sunniest,  dreamiest  place  in  the  world. 

In  the  plaza,  bull  fights  occurred  in  the  Spanish  days;  and 
the  cowboys  of  the  neighboring  great  cattle  ranges  still  gather 
there  of  a  Saturday  night  as  generations  of  cowboys  have  been 


Other  Missions   of  California  305 

doing  for  scores  of  years  past.  Just  below  the  plaza  are  some 
tall  pear  trees,  planted  by  the  padres  more  than  a  hundred 
years  ago. 

Here,  in  short,  are  the  most  distinct  and  unspoiled  vestiges 
you  will  find  of  the  dolce  far  niente  times  of  Spanish  Cali- 
fornia; the  sunlit,  pastoral  peace  of  the  "days  before  the 
Gringo  came." 

San  Juan  is  about  eight  miles  west  of  Hollister,  and  possibly 
sixteen  miles  inland  from  the  Bay  of  Monterey.  It  can  be 
reached  by  taking  the  Southern  Pacific  train  from  Third  and 
Townsend  depot  to  Sargent  station  and  staging  between  six 
and  seven  miles  from  there ;  or  by  train  to  Salinas  and  auto- 
mobile  from   that  point. 

The  other  missions  of  California,  the  dates  of  their  estab- 
lishment, and  the  nearest  railroad  stations,  are: 

Mission  Founded  Station 

San  Francisco  Solano July  4,    1823.  .  .Sonoma 

San    Rafael   Archangel    Dec.  14,    181 7.  .  .San  Rafael 

S.   F.   D'Assisi   (Dolores)    Oct.  9,    1776... San    Francisco 

Santa  Clara Jan.  12,   1777...  Santa  Clara 

San   Jose June  II,    1  797.  .  .  Irvington    (1    mi.) 

Santa  Cruz    Sept.  25,    1  79 1  .  .  .  Santa  Cruz 

San  Juan  Bautista June  24,    1797.  .  .Sargent    (6   mi.) 

San  Carlos  de  Borromeo June       3,    1770.  .  .Monterey 

■  San  Carlos  de  Rio  Carmelo July  10,    1771  .  .  .Monterey   (5  mi.) 

Nuestra  Senora  de  la  Soiedad    .  .  .Oct.  9,    1791  .  .  .  Soledad  (4  mi.) 

San  Antonio  de  Padua July  14,    1771  ...  King   City    (26  mi.) 

San  Miguel    July  25.    1 797...  San   Miguel 

San  Luis  Obispo  de  Tolosa Sept.      I,    1772.  .  .San  Luis  Obispo 

Santa  Ynez Sept.  17,    1804.  .  .Los  Olivos  (12  mi.) 

La    Purisima   Conception Dec.  8,    1787.  .  .  Lompoc  (3  mi.) 

Santa  Barbara Dec.  4,    1  786.  .  .  Santa   Barbara 

San  Buenaventura Mar.  31,    1  782  .  .  .  Ventura 

San  Fernando  Rey  de  Espana.  .  .  .  Sept.     8,    1  797.  ..  Fernando    (2  mi.) 

San  Gabriel  Archangel    Sept.  8,    1771  .  .  .Los  Angeles  (10  mi.) 

San  Juan  Capistrano    Nov.      I,    1776.  .    Capistrano 

San  Antonio  de  Pala June  14,    1771  .  .  .  Fallbrook    (12    mi.) 

San  Luis  Rey  de  Frania June  13,    1798.  .  .Oceanside 

San  Diego  de  Alcala July  16,    1769... San    Diego    (5   mi.) 

Santa  Ysabel ,.,,.,,,,,,,,  1822 Foster   (28  mi.) 


306  *  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

YOSEMITE   VALLEY. 
Pronounce  it  Yo  SEMity. 

Located  1 50  miles  due  east  of  San  Francisco,  in  an  air 
line.  By  the  Southern  Pacific  it  is  151  miles  and  by  the 
Santa  Fe  143  miles  to  Merced,  whence  the  Yosemite  Valley 
railroad  takes  you  to  El  Portal,  near  the  entrance,  a  distance 
by  rail  of  79  miles. 

San  Francisco  is  the  main  point  of  departure.  You  can 
leave  the  city  from  the  Ferry  building  in  the  morning,  arrive 
at  Merced  early  in  the  afternoon,  and  reach  the  hotel  at  El 
Portal  in  time  for  dinner.  Next  morning  a  stage  ride  of  twelve 
miles  takes  you  to  the  hotel  or  the  boarding  camps  in  the 
Valley.  Or  during  the  summer  season,  beginning  April  30th 
or  May  1  st,  one  can  take  a  Pullman  in  the  evening  and  arrive 
at  El  Portal  for  breakfast,  without  change  of  cars. 

The  round  trip  transportation  fare,  including  stage  ride  from 
El  Portal,  is  $22.35  from  San  Francisco.  Excess  baggage 
on  the  stage  from  El  Portal  is  $1.00  a  hundred  pounds. 
Fifty  pounds  are  carried  free.  There  is  a  small  charge  for 
seats  in  the  observation  car  from  Merced.  On  this  line  one 
sees  many  remains  of  old  gold  "diggings" — chimneys  of 
miners'  cabins  burned  long  ago,  and  one  old  stone  structure 
that  was  used  as  a  bank. 

Rates  at  the  Sentinel  Hotel  are  $3  to  $4  a  day,  or  $20 
to  $25  a  week;  at  Camp  Lost  Arrow,  at  the  foot  of  Yosemite 
Falls,  $2  a  day;  at  Camp  Curry,  at  the  foot  of  Glacier 
Point,  and  on  the  way  to  the  Happy  Isles,  Vernal  Falls  and 
Nevada  Falls,  $2  a  day ;  at  Camp  Ahwahnee,  the  first  camp 
you  come  to  in  the  Valley,  $3  a  day. 

At  Glacier  Point,  3,234  feet  above  the  floor  of  the  Valley, 
are  a  good  hotel  and  camp,  where  the  rates  are  respectively 
$4  and  $2  a  day.  All  the  camps,  as  well  as  the  hotel,  are 
comfortable,  with  floored  tents  and  ample  bathing  facilities. 


Yosemiie   Valley  307 


The  Sentinel  hotel,  on  the  floor  of  the  Valley,  is  open  all 
year.  The  camps  and  the  Glacier  Point  hotel  are  open  only 
in  summer. 

In  regard  to  equipment,  your  requirements  in  Yosemite 
will  be  comparatively  simple,  unless  you  wish  to  make  a  dress 
affair  of  it;  so  you  can  afford  to  leave  most  of  your  luggage 
at  your  hotel  in  the  city.  Take  tramping  clothes  and  hob- 
nailed boots,  for  it  is  a  place  of  goodly  distances,  and  although 
plenty  of  trail  animals  are  to  be  had  you  will  frequently  wish 
to  walk.  Supply  yourself  at  Butler's,  Payot,  Upham  & 
Company's,  or  the  Lietz  Company's,  with  one  of  the  topo- 
graphical maps  isued  by  the  United  States  Geological  Survey; 
they  show  the  roads  and  trails,  the  elevations,  the  courses  of 
the  streams  and  the  locations  of  the  falls.  Get  a  pocket  com- 
pass; it  win  help  you  find  yourself  on  the  map.  A  haversack 
for  your  lunch  is  a  great  convenience,  and  a  collapsible  cup  is 
almost  indispensable.  And,  finally,  for  good  reading  on  the 
Yosemite,  get  John  Muir's  book  of  that  title. 

The  Valley  is  open  the  year  around  and  is  matchless  at 
any  season. 

In  Spring  there  is  most  water  going  over  the  falls.  In 
Summer  the  foliage  and  flowers  are  more  brilliant  and  abun- 
dant, and  this  is  the  season  for  campers.  In  Autumn  the 
Indian  Summer  haze  tints  the  far-away  cliffs  with  wondrous 
color  and  makes  this  the  favorite  time  with  real  Yosemite 
lovers;  the  sort  that  make  yearly  and  sometimes  semi-yearly 
pilgrimages  to  the  Valley. 

Winter  adds  grand  effects  to  the  streams  and  crags  and 
mighty  domes  of  this  enchanted  region.  You  may  witness  the 
fall  and  crash  of  blocks  of  ice  as  big  as  a  box  car,  dropping 
1 ,600  feet  over  the  Yosemite  Fall.  At  this  season  many 
Californians  enjoy  here  touches  of  the  cold  they  do  not  get 
elsewhere  than  in  their  mountain  heights;  with  bits  of  Winter 
sport,  such  as  ski  running,  sleighing  and  skating  on  Mirror 
Lake. 


308  Handbook  /or  San  Francisco 

From  the  Himalayas  to  the  Alps,  there  is  not  another  place 
Hke  Yosemite  in  the  world.  It  is  the  only  place  where  one 
can  travel  on  a  practically  level  road  eight  miles  into  the 
granite  core  of  a  mountain  range;  a  range  that  rises  on  either 
hand  as  you  proceed  from  an  elevation  of  about  3,900  feet 
where  you  enter  the  Valley,  to  the  7,042  of  El  Capitan,  the 
7,214  of  Glacier  Point,  the  7,072  of  Liberty  Cap  and  the 
8,852  of  the  Half  Dome  whose  riven  face  rises  almost  a 
mile  high  from  the  Valley  floor.  All  about  are  stupendous 
cliffs,  with  swimming,  tangled  perspectives  that  daze  the  senses. 

Thousands  of  feet  above,  rivers  wandering  in  pleasant 
mountain  valleys  come  to  the  tops  of  these  awful  walls,  and 
drop.  Their  waters  are  sifted  by  the  air  into  floating  spray 
and  weaving  vapors,  in  which  rainbows  appear;  they  slide 
like  molten  silver  down  long  inclines  of  granite;  they  break 
into  cascades  of  liquid  diamonds  that  splinter  the  mountain 
sunlight  into  flashing  jets  of  ruby  and  orange  and  emerald. 

There  is  a  point  at  which  the  mind  wearies  of  its  awe,  and 
complacently  gives  itself  over  to  a  bewildered  sort  of  en- 
chantment. You  reach  it  by  the  second  day.  You  begin  to 
see  that  the  archetypes  of  all  the  natural  beauty  in  the  world 
have  been  crammed  and  compacted  into  this  wondrous  chasm, 
eight  miles  long  and  half  a  mile  wide,  with  its  lateral  gorges — - 
evergreen  lirs  that  "tremble  on  the  mountain  wall,"  dogwood 
blossoms,  mountain  lilies,  azaleas,  the  Mariposa  tulip  if  you 
are  lucky,  wild  strawberries,  gleaming  trout  in  the  river,  a  lake 
like  plate  glass  silvered ;  the  Happy  Isles  where  the  divided 
river  warbles  its  endless  music  over  tree  root  and  boulder ;  the 
fairy  loveliness  of  the  lililouette.  You  climb  to  Glacier  Point, 
and  at  5  o'clock  next  morning  turn  out  of  your  warm  bed  in 
the  Glacier  Point  hotel  and  become  one  of  the  blanket  Indians 
on  the  east  porch  to  see  the  sun  rise  behind  the  Half  Dome 
and  pierce  the  heavens  with  long  darts  of  flame  like  the  corona 
of  an  eclipse — an  utterly  thrilling,  unforgettable  vision. 

You  have  come  for  three  days.  You  see  that  it  was  a  mistake, 
that  you  should  have  made  it  a  month.      But  you  will  return. 


Big   Trees   of  California 


309 


THE  BIG  TREES  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

These  are  earth's  largest  living  things,  and  oldest. 

You  will  find  them  nowhere  but  in  the  Sierra  Nevadas. 
Their  only  known  relatives  are  the  Sequoia  Sempervirens,  the 
California  redwoods  of  the  Coast  Range  mountains.  Unless 
transplanted  the  Sequoia  Gigantea,  or  Washingtonia,  as  the 
Forestry  Service  now  calls  it,  does  not  grow  on  the  coast. 


TIIK    KAI.I.KN    M 


Along  the  Sierra  slopes  the  Big  Trees  grow  in  groves,  of 
which  the  best  known  are  the  Calaveras,  South  Park,  Tuol- 
umne, Mariposa  and  Fresno.  These  may  contain  anywhere 
from  30  trees  in  the  Tuolumne  grove,  to  1,300  in  the  Cala- 
veras. Forests  of  them  are  found  in  the  canyons  of  the  Kings 
and  Kaweah  rivers.  In  the  Giant  Forest  there  are  said  to  be 
over  6,000  trees  with  diameters  of  not  less  than  1 5  feet. 
But   1  5  feet  is  not  a  large  diameter  for  a  Big  Tree ;  some  are 


3  I  0  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

a  hundred  feet  around.  In  some  cases  the  stage  road  has 
been  cut  through  a  standing  trunk  and  you  can  drive  through 
in  a  double-decker  "thoroughbrace."  On  one  of  them,  fallen, 
a  squadron  of  cavalry  has  lined  up.  They  reach  a  height  of 
340  feet,  and  even  then  it  invariably  happens  that  the  tip  has 
been  broken  off  nobody  knows  how  far  down,  by  nobody 
knows  how  many  strokes  of  the  jealous  lightning. 

So  perfect  are  their  proportions,  so  slender  and  graceful  the 
taper  of  their  boles,  so  harmonious  their  salmon  tinted  bark, 
and  their  sparse  and  lace-like  foliage,  that  the  traveler  is  likely 
to  be  struck  at  first  by  their  beauty  instead  of  their  size.  As 
he  gazes  upward,  however,  he  notices  that  some  minor  limb, 
branching  from  the  main  trunk,  is  of  a  thickness  that  would, 
if  it  grew  alone,  make  it  a  large  tree.  The  Grizzly  Giant,  in 
the  Mariposa  grove,  has  such  a  limb  eighty  feet  from  the 
ground  that  is  seven  feet  through.  Gradually  it  dawns  upon 
the  beholder  that  these  organisms  are  stupendous,  overwhelm- 
ing, awe-inspiring,  one  of  the  greatest  of  the  world's  wonders. 

The  Mariposa  grove  is  probably  the  best  known,  and  is 
easily  reached  from  Yosemite  by  way  of  Wawona,  where 
there  is  a  comfortable  hotel.  Stages  run  from  Glacier  Point, 
which  one  reaches  from  the  floor  of  the  Valley  either  afoot 
or  horseback,  passing  by  Vernal  and  Nevada  Falls;  and  also 
from  the  floor  of  the  Valley  over  the  old  Wawona  road  by 
Inspiration  Point.  If  one  desires  to  go  direct,  Wawona  can 
also  be  reached  from  San  Francisco  by  way  of  Madera,  on 
the  Southern  Pacific  railroad,  and  automobile  stage  from 
there. 

The  prove  is  about  six  miles  from  the  hotel  at  Wawona, 
which  will  furnish  conveyances  for  the  trip.  No  automobiles 
are  permitted  at  present. 

The  Calaveras  Big  Trees,  in  the  county  of  that  name,  are 
another  fine  grove,  containing  more  trees  than  the  Mariposa. 
The  route  is  by  the  Southern  Pacific  to  Angels  Camp,  one  of 
the  historic  places  of  California  in  the  Bret  Harte  and  Mark 
Twain  mining  country.     A  stage  runs  from  Angels. 


Lake    Tahoe  31  1 

Another  magnificent  grove  is  the  General  Grant,  near  San- 
ger. 

Few  authors  have  written  as  entertainingly  of  this  region 
and  these  giant  trees  as  the  CaHfornia  mountaineer,  John 
Muir.  His  books,  "The  Mountains  of  California,"  "Our 
National  Parks"  and  'My  First  Summer  in  the  Sierra,"  treat 
the  whole  subject  sympathetically,  understandingly  and  de- 
lightfully. 


LAKE  TAHOE,  GLEN  ALPINE  SPRINGS  AND 
DESOLATION  VALLEY. 

Only  second  in  interest  to  Yosemite  Valley  is  the  region  of 
Lake  Tahoe  and  Glen  Alpine  Springs,  lying  on  the  eastern 
slope  of  the  Sierra,  1 50  miles,  in  an  air  line,  northeast  of 
San  Francisco,  and  about  1  00  miles  north  of  Yosemite. 

This  region  can  be  reached  by  taking  the  Southern  Pacific 
to  Truckee,  209  miles,  and  1  I  hours,  away ;  and  thence  the 
Lake  Tahoe  Railway  and  Transportation  Company's  train 
past  Deer  Park,  a  popular  mountain  resort,  to  Tahoe  City  and 
Tahoe  Tavern,  leaving  San  Francisco  at  night  and  reaching 
the  tavern  about  the  middle  of  the  following  morning.  The 
Tavern  accommodates  500  guests  and  the  rates  are  $4  a 
day  and  up,  American  plan.  It  is  a  good  place,  with  every 
modern  convenience,  and  is  located  on  the  western  side  and 
toward  the  northern  end  of  the  lake. 

Tallac  is  at  the  southern  end  of  the  lake.  Here,  also,  is 
a  fine  hotel,  where  the  accommodations  are  at  the  rate  of  $3 
a  day  and  upward.  It  is  reached  by  steamer  from  Tahoe  City 
or  the  1  avern,  and  the  steamer  trip  is  a  beautiful  one.  An 
equally  interesting  way,  perhaps  even  more  beautiful,  is  to 
take  the  Southern  Pacific  train  from  Sacramento  to  Placer- 
ville,  in  El  Dorado  county,  and  the  automobile  stage  from 
that  point  up  the  canyon  of  the  south  fork  of  the  American 
river   to  Tallac,   passing   through   wild   mountain   scenery,    and 


3 1 2  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

park-like  woods  of  pine  and  fir  and  mountain  hemlock. 

In  addition  to  the  Tavern  and  Tallac,  there  are  many 
excellent  resorts  at  different  points  on  the  lake,  where  accom- 
modations can  be  had  at  varying  prices — such  as  Emerald  Bay 
Camp,  Al  Tahoe,  the  Brockway  Hotel,  Tahoe  Vista,  The 
Grove,  Glenbrook,  McKinney's  (whence  a  seven  mile  ride  will 
take  you  to  Rubicon  Springs),  Moana  Villa,  and  others.  The 
steamer  stops  at  all  of  them  in  its  rounds. 

Tahoe  is  a  wonderful  sheet  of  crystal-clear  water,  23  miles 
long,  1 3  wide,  over  half  a  mile  deep,  poised  in  a  mountain 
basin  at  an  altitude  of  more  than  a  mile  above  the  sea.  It  has 
been  compared  to  Como  and  Maggiore,  but  its  proportions  are 
more  ample  and  satisfying  and  it  is  framed  in  grander  moun- 
tains. Its  waters  are  full  of  fish,  and  every  resort  keeps  boats 
for  its  guests.  Trout  are  sometimes  taken  weighing  twelve 
pounds.  The  depths  are  trolled  with  copper  wire  for  the  big 
ones,  and  the  sport  is  finer  than  Eastern  fishing  for  bass,  pike 
or  muskalunge.  Tahoe  is  the  lake  of  lakes,  the  most  delight- 
lul  inland  sheet  of  water  where  large  numbers  of  people  can 
find  accommodations  suited  to  purse  and  taste.  There  are  no 
pests  of  flies  or  mosquitoes.  In  this  serene  mountain  air,  free 
from  dust  and  pollen,  hay  fever  is  unknown  and  the  victims 
of  it  that  come  here  from  the  Eastern  States  experience  instant 
relief. 

At  present,  travel  about  the  lake  is  almost  entirely  by 
steamer,  as  the  distances  are  generous  and  the  roads  are  few, 
but  a  road  is  being  built  by  the  State  from  Tahoe  City  and 
the  Tavern,  around  by  Emerald  Bay  to  Tallac,  which  will 
enable  automobiles  to  make  this  much  of  the  circuit,  and  open 
land  communication  between  these  two  main  points. 

Clen  Alpine  Springs  and  Desolation  Valley.  A  stage  leaves 
Tallac  daily  after  lunch  for  Glen  Alpine,  passing  for  about 
three  miles  along  the  east  shore  of  Fallen  Leaf  Lalfc,  where 
there  is  a  good  lodge  or  inn.  Accommodations  here  are  at 
the  rate  of  $14  a  week  and  upward.  Rates  in  camp  at  Glen 
Alpine  are  $14  to  $16  a  week. 


Clen  Alpine  Springs  313 

Although  but  seven  miles  by  the  road  from  Tahoe,  the 
scenery  and  surroundings  at  Glen  Alpine  Springs  are  of  an 
altogether  different  order,  and  the  traveler  that  has  spent  any 
time  at  the  lake  feels  that  he  has  been  transported  into  another 
world.  The  Springs  themselves  are  in  a  narrow  glen,  but 
good  trails  lead  to  the  heights  above,  and  to  more  than  a 
score  of  gem-like  mountain  lakes,  in  which  big  trout  abound, 
and  on  nine  of  which  the  camp  proprietors  keep  boats  for  the 
accommodation  of  their  guests. 

You  should  have  a  topographical  map  of  this  region,  as  for 
Yosemite,  hob-nailed  boots,  a  haversack,  a  compass  and  a 
collapsible  cup.  Lunches  are  provided  by  the  camp  on  a 
night's  notice. 

One  of  the  best  hikes  of  this  neighborhood  is  to  the  top  of 
Mt.  Tallac,  9,785  feet  above  the  sea.  Trail  animals  (horses 
or  mules)  can  be  obtained  by  those  that  do  not  care  for  tramp- 
ing. The  scenery  on  the  way  is  of  a  nature  that  is  nothing 
less  than  startling. 

At  the  summit,  one  of  the  wonder  visions  of  the  continent 
lies  before  you.  You  see  a  vast  stretch  of  the  tops  of  the 
Sierra,  the  grandest  chain  of  mountains  in  the  United  States, 
from  a  scenic  standpoint.  The  gem  of  the  picture  is  Tahoe 
itself,  spread  at  your  feet,  where  it  looks  as  though  you  could 
throw  a  stone  into  it,  but  so  far  below  that  the  steamer  has 
the  dimensions  of  a  canoe,  and  seems  only  to  creep  from  one 
landing  to  another.  The  colors,  also,  are  wonderful.  The 
water  is  of  the  light  and  crystalline  blue  that  eastern  Moguls 
looked  for  in  the  "female"  sapphire.  The  plains  about  Tallac 
are  brown  and  umber,  shading  into  topaz  tints  and  finally 
going  into  unmistakable  yellows.  The  timber  is  a  combination 
of  greens  and  saffron;  and  all  is  softened  and  exquisitely 
blended  by  the  downward  distance. 

There  are  many  good  hikes  in  the  neighborhood,  but  the 
best  one  is  by  way  of  Heather  Lake  to 

Desolation  Valley.  Unless  accustomed  to  the  mountains 
and  to  keeping  track  of  your  location  you  would  better  have 


314  Handboolf  for  San  Francisco 

a  guide.  With  or  without  a  guide,  this  is  one  of  the  grandest 
day's  marches  you  will  ever  make.  Here,  amid  the  granite 
crestings  of  the  Sierra,  surrounded  by  peaks  that  rise  to  1 0,  - 
000  feet,  is  a  vast  stone  floor  covered  with  a  labyrinthine 
spread  of  lakes,  between  which  are  growing  dwarfed,  snow- 
bent  and  despairing  trees;  a  "suicidal  throng"  such  as  Childe 
Roland  saw  on  his  way  to  the  Dark  Tower.  Rafts  of  snow 
are  floating  in  the  lakes.  Hummocks  of  bare  granite  rise  here 
and  there  with  streams  brawling  between. 

Above,  the  knife-edge  ridges  hold  snow  fields  and  bits  of 
old  glaciers,  remnants  of  the  ice  age.  Pyramid  Peak  rises  to 
a  height  of  1  0,020  feet  from  the  farther  side,  built  of  gigantic, 
overlapping  grey  slabs,  as  though  some  primordial  Chufru  had 
taken  the  cosmos  for  his  tomb. 

No  life  appears.  Not  a  bird  flies  over.  There  is  no  sound 
except  the  dismal  crcaknig  of  thousands  of  frogs. 

The  scene  at  first  appals ;  but  as  you  gaze  in  bewilderment, 
fascination  seizes  you,  and  then  the  beauty  and  charm  of  a 
great  natural  garden — the  Garden  of  Granite.  The  contorted 
pines  and  junipers  have  a  Japanese  effect.  The  waters  of  all 
these  lakes  and  connecting  streams  sparkle  and  glitter  in  the 
mountain  light.  Clumps  of  taller  timber  take  an  added  dig- 
nity from  their  isolation.  Dwell  upon  it,  and  it  becomes  a 
scene  of  wondrous  beauty,  unearthly  and  weird,  transporting 
in  its  charm,  and  making  the  strange  appeal  that  later  trans- 
lates itself  into  homesickness  for  the  sight  of  it  again.  Few 
people  that  have  once  fallen  under  the  spell  of  Desolation 
Valley  can  be  content  until  they  have  wandered  through  its 
stony  mazes  for  a  second  time. 

The  ascent  of  Pyramid  Peak  becomes  an  ambition  here, 
and  can  be  made,  with  the  return  to  camp,  in  a  day  if  you 
are  a  pretty  good  climber.  The  panorama  from  the  top  is 
reward  enough,  and  so  are  those  from  the  summits  of  Dick's, 
Jack's.  Ralston  and  Angora. 


Automobiling  315 


AUTOMOBILING. 

San  Francisco  is  the  hub  of  a  region  affording  opportunity 
for  most  fascinating  and  dehghtful  automobile  trips.  The 
vicinity  contains  all  the  variety  of  mountains,  plains,  valleys 
and  great  river  courses.  The  basin  of  the  Bay  itself,  with 
the  connecting  bays  and  straits,  presents  scenes  of  ever  chang- 
ing interest.  Every  hill  discloses  a  new  and  wonderful  cyclo- 
rama.  Old  Ocean  lies  to  westward,  and  forms  the  distant 
blue  perspective  of  every  approach  to  the  coast. 

Nowhere  can  one  find  such  limitless  variety,  such  a  succes- 
sion of  abrupt  changes  of  grand  and  beautiful  scenery.  North, 
east  and  south  the  roads  stretch  away,  to  Marin  county,  to 
Sonoma  county,  to  Mendocino  county,  to  Lake  and  Napa 
counties,  up  to  Shasta,  to  the  Klamath  region  and  beyond  to 
Oregon ;  to  Lake  Tahoe,  to  the  Yosemite,  to  the  Sacramento 
and  San  Joaquin  valleys,  to  Santa  Cruz,  Del  Monte,  Monterey, 
Pacific  Grove,  the  Salinas  valley  and  Paso  Robles  and  down 
the  coast  to  Santa  Barbara,  Los  Angeles,  San  Diego  and 
Mexico. 

World  travelers  declare  there  are  no  scenes  along  the  Ri- 
viera, nor  yet  on  the  famous  Amalfi  drive  from  Naples,  to 
compare  with  the  scenery  of  the  Alpine  Drive  from  Pescadero 
to  La  Honda,  accessible  from  this  city  in  less  than  two  hours; 
or  some  of  the  country  to  the  northward  of  San  Francisco, 
including  trips  over  to  the  coast  from  points  in  the  interior  of 
Marin  county ;  while  such  views  as  one  gets  from  the  hill  road 
from  Martinez  to  Port  Costa,  overlooking  Carquinez  Straits, 
and  from  the  top  of  Mt.  Diablo,  are  no  less  than  sublime. 

California  is  becoming  famous  for  good  roads.  The  State 
has  bonded  itself  to  the  extent  of  $18,000,000  for  the  con- 
struction of  a  north-and-south  highway  system,  and  the  different 
counties  are  voting  sums  that  will  probably  reach  a  like 
amount  for  lateral  connections.  For  California  touring  one 
should  have  Ross'  "Land  and  Auto  Map  of  California's 
Twenty-five   Central   Counties,"   or  Candrian's   'Auto   Roads 


316 


Handhool(  for  San  Francisco 


Handybook  of  California  and  Nevada,"  which  will  give  a 
general  view  of  the  field,  and  for  specific  distances  the  "Tour 
Book"  of  the  California  State  Automobile  Association.  We 
can  do  no  more  here  than  indicate  a  few  of  the  most  delightful 
rides  in  and  around  San  Francisco,  as  an  introduction  to  the 
country,  which  the  automobilist  is  practically  certain  to  follow 
with  enthusiasm  to  a  closer  acquaintance. 


I.ICK   MOXUMENT   TO  THE   PIONEERS. 


I.       A   day's   automobile   trip    in    SAN    FRANCISCO.  J 

The  visitor  that  intends  seeing  the  region  of  San  Francisco  i 
by  automobile  should  give  his  first  day  or  half  day  if  he  has' 
no  longer  time,  to  the  city  itself,  for  he  will  not  find  one  more  ^ 
entrancing.  A  comprehensive  idea  of  it  can  be  gained  in  half 
a  day  without  fatigue,  but  one  could  easily  extend  the  route  to  i 
occupy  the  better  part  of  a  day.  j 

i 


Automobiling  31  7 


Visit  first  the  Embarcadero,  and  see  the  piers  and  the 
shipping. 

Turn  up  Market  street  to  California,  follow  California 
through  the  financial  district  and  up  the  lower  slope  of  Nob 
Hill  as  far  as  Grant  avenue,  which  at  this  point  enters  China- 
town. Grant  avenue  is  its  main  street  and  you  can  turn  north 
for  a  few  blocks  and  get  a  fleeting  glimpse  of  this  most  inter- 
esting place. 

South  on  Grant  avenue  to  Post  street,  turn  west  on  Post 
to  Stockton,  then  south  on  Stockton  to  Market  street.  This 
will  take  you  through  the  principal  shopping  section  of  the  city, 
past  Union  Square,  surrounded  by  hotels  and  large  stores. 
Then  run  out  Market  street  to  Van  Ness  avenue.  The  stores 
and  automobile  agencies  along  "Gasoline  Row"  are  new  and 
handsome  structures  and  the  other  improvements  of  the  avenue 
are  rapidly  making  it  one  of  the  most  attractive  parts  of  down- 
town San  Francisco.  For  much  of  its  length  Van  Ness  was 
the  western  limit  of  the  conflagration  of  1 906. 

Continue  on  Van  Ness  to  Fort  Mason,  with  its  fine  views 
over  Black  Point  Cove  and  the  Bay.  Enter  the  Panama- 
Pacific  Exposition  grounds,  and  then  return  through  Fort 
Mason  to  Van  Ness  avenue.  Go  south  to  Jackson  street  and 
take  Jackson  west  to  Arguello  boulevard,  called  also  First 
avenue.  This  takes  you  through  a  section  of  the  city  with  fine 
water  views,  where  many  wealthy  San  Franciscans  have  built 
their  town  houses. 

Enter  the  Presidio  by  the  First  avenue  entrance  and  make 
a  square  turn  to  the  right.  Then  follow  McDowell  avenue  to 
the  left,  swinging  around  the  hills,  whence  there  is  a  magnifi- 
cent view  across  the  garrison  buildings,  and  the  islands  of  the 
Bay. 

At  the  foot  of  the  grade,  turn  to  the  left  and  run  out  to 
old  Fort  Winfield  Scott,  (within  the  Presidio  reservation  but 
organized  as  a  separate  artillery  post). 

Doubling  back  from  Fort  Scott,  keep  along  the  foot  of  the 
slope,  run  past  the  National  Cemetery,  and  through  the  Pre- 


3  1  8  Handbook  for  San   Francisco 

sidio  parade  with  its  flag  staff,  to  the  terminus  of  the  Union 
street  car  hne.  The  view  is  a  grand  panorama,  unroHing  as 
you  go;  one  of  the  great  marine  prospects  of  the  western 
coast. 

From  this  point  take  the  road  to  the  right,  running  south- 
easterly. Keep  to  the  right  and  run  westerly  along  the  fence 
back  to  the  First  avenue  gate.  Thence  take  First  avenue 
southward. 

A  block  south  of  the  Presidio  is  the  entrance  to  Presidio 
Terrace,  a  restricted  residence  district  of  fine  homes  set  amid 
palms,  in  park-like  grounds.  The  Presidio  Golf  Club  has  its 
club  house  here,  and  plays  on  the  Presidio  links.  Emerging, 
follow  Arguello  boulevard  south  to  Fulton  street,  passing  the 
Odd  Fellows'  Cemetery,  where  you  can  see  the  dome  of  its 
beautiful  columbarium.  At  Fulton  street  run  eastward,  to  the 
left,  around  the  corner  of  Golden  Gate  Park  to  the  Stanyan 
street  entrance. 

This  is  the  finest  artificial  park  in  the  United  States,  and 
you  could  spend  the  day  enjoying  its  statuary,  its  Music  Tem- 
ple, its  Japanese  Tea  Garden,  its  manifold  beauties  of  hill  and 
dale,  with  its  roads  winding  among  lovely  lakes  where  the 
wild  ducks  nest,  its  herds  of  elk  and  buffalo,  and  its  huge 
Dutch  windmills. 

At  the  west  end  of  the  Park  is  the  sloop  "Gjoa,"  in  which 
Amundsen,  discoverer  of  the  South  Pole,  sailed  through  the 
Northwest  Passage. 

To  the  right  as  you  emerge  from  the  west  end  of  the  Park 
IS  San  Francisco's  far-famed  Cliff  House.  Beyond,  up  the 
hill,  are  the  great  Sulro  Baths,  and  the  Sulro  Gardens,  which 
the  public  is  privileged  to  enter  and  enjoy — afoot. 

Run  down  the  Great  Highxvay  southward,  within  sight  of 
the  booming  surf  of  the  Pacific  for  about  three  miles  to  Sloat 
Boulevard,  and  then  turn  east,  passing,  on  your  right  the  Lake 
Merced  lands  of  the  Spring  Valley  Water  Company. 

A  short  distance  beyond,  you  come  to  the  neighborhood  of 
three  of  San   Francisco's  newly  developed  residence  districts: 


Aulomobil'mg 


319 


THREE  MILES  OF  BEACH;  FROM  THE  CLIFF  HOUSE. 

Ingleside  Terraces,  Forest  Hill  and  5^  Francis  Wood,  beau- 
tified with  contoured  streets,  parked  walks,  ornamental  vases 
and  columns,  and  parks  with  pretty  fountains,  in  the  highest 
art  of  the  modern  landscape  engineer. 

Take  Corbett  avenue,  winding  up  the  heights  to  the  east 
face  of  Trvin  Peaffs,  over  900  feet  high.  The  view  from  this 
point  is  marvelous.  The  whole  amphitheater  of  the  Bay  ap- 
pears, with  the  city  sloping  downward  before  you.  Market 
street  running  direct  to  the  water  front,  islands,  shipping,  the 
encircling  hills,  and  Tamalpais  rising  like  Vesuvius  to  com- 
plete a  scene  far  surpassing  in  beauty  the  famed  bay  of  Naples. 

If  the  traveler  has  a  few  days  he  should  by  all  means  make 
the  trip  to  the  top  of  Twin  Peaks  in  the  evening  and  look 
upon  the  myriad  lights  of  the  city  spreading  down  the  slopes 
before  him. 

From  the  top  of  Twin  Peaks,  descend  to  Corbett  avenue, 
lake  Ashbury  street  northward,  following  the  car  line,  to  Fred- 
erick street;  turn  west  on  Frederick  street  to  Clayton,  south  on 
Clayton  to  Carl,  west  on  Carl  to  Stanyan,  south  on  Stanyan 


320                       Handbook  for  San  Francisco  i 

to   Parnassus  avenue,   and  out  Parnassus  avenue  westwaird  to  ' 
the   Affiliated  Colleges,   whence   there   is   another   grand   view 
across  Golden  Gate  Park,  the  Presidio,  and  the  Golden  Gate, 
and  westward  far  out  to  sea. 

Returning,    follow  the   car  track   along  Stanyan,   Carl   and 

Clayton    streets    to    Frederick,    and    Frederick    east    to    Buena  , 
Vista  Park.     You  can  run  to  the  top  of  this  500-foot  height 
and  get  another  grand  view  across  the  city  to   the   eastward, 

and  over  the  Bay.  i 

The  whole  trip  here  laid  out  can  be  made  in   four  hours, 

without  stops ;  but  it  would  be  a  pity  not  to  give  a  day  to  the  i 

enjoyment  of  its  beauties  and   the   grandeur  of  the  scenery   it  i 

discloses.  i 

If  you   have  but   three   hours,    omit   either   the    Presidio   or 

Twin  Peaks.  , 

An  hour  or  more  can  be  spent  profitably  in  the  down  town  [ 
part  of  the  city,  including  Chinatown.      Or  the  whole  can  be 
combined   with   a   trip   through   the    Potrero   industrial   district, 

passing   near   the   Union    Iron   Works,    the   rope   walk   of   the  | 

Tubbs  Cordage  Company,  the  Western  sugar  refinery  and  I 
other  large  industrial  plants. 

II.       DOWN    THE    PENINSULA   TO    HALF    MOON    BAY,    PESCA-  | 

DERO  AND   LA   HONDA.  ■ 

This  route  will  take  you  among  some  of  the  finest  country  ; 

estates   in   the   world,   where    Italian   gardeners   and   landscape  | 

artists  have  exercised  their  highest  talents ;   to   lakes  as  lovely  ' 

as  Como  or  Killarney ;  and  over  a  mountain  drive  which,  were  j 

it  in  Europe,  would  be  favored  beyond  the  most  famous  to  be  ! 

found  there.     Within  one  day's  journey  of  98  miles  you  will  j 

see  the  fertility  of  smiling  California  valleys,  the  sublimity  of  ' 

the    ocean,    the    grandeur    of    the    mountains    and    the    solemn  1 

depths  of  mighty  forests.  j 

Start  at  9  o'clock,  or  earlier  if  you  choose,  and  run  through  ] 

Golden  Gate  Park  and  southward  over  Nineteenth  avenue  to  ] 
Sloat    boulevard,    whence   you    can    turn    southward    again    to 


i 


Automobiling 


321 


School  street,   and  passing  Caleb  Coakley's  take  the   Mission 
road  to  San  Mateo  county. 

At  Colma,  just  below  the  county  line,  are  violet  farms  of 
400  acres  extent,  where  the  world's  finest  violets  are  grown. 
Violets  from  these  beds  are  shipped  from  San  Francisco  up 
and  down  the  Pacific  coast  and  as  far  east  as  Chicago. 


GAUDKN  IN  SAX  MATKO  COUNTY. 

At  Burlingame,  Hillsboro  and  San  Mateo  are  many  of  the 
country  places  of  wealthy  San  Franciscans,  beautified  with 
artificial  lakes,  or  open  air  Greek  theaters,  or  conservatories 
with  unrivalled  collections  of  orchids. 

From  San  Mateo  take  the  Half  Moon  Bay  road  to  Cr'^slal 
Lakes.  These  are  part  of  the  water  supply  system  of  San 
Francisco,  and  lie  extended  in  a  softly  beautiful  valley  for  a 
distance  of  over  twelve  miles.  Crossing  by  the  great  dam,  run 
down  the  long  grade  to  Half  Moon  Bay  and  the  old  Spanish 
Town. 


322  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

From  Half  Moon  Bay  continue  down  the  coast  through  San      I 
Gregorio  to   Pescadero,   and  thence  run  down  to  the   famous 
Pebble  Beach.     In  a  Httle  strip  of  beach  about  I  00  feet  wide 
by  less  than   200   in   length,   all   sorts   of  curious  stones   have 
been   found,   including  a   few  pearls.  i 

Returning  to  Pescadero  take  the  road  to  La  Honda,  over  j 
the  famous  Alpine  Drive.  It  will  lead  you  into  the  Coast  i 
Range  mountains,  through  an  immense  virgin  forest  of  Cali- 
fornia redwoods,  and  to  altitudes  of  hundreds  of  feet,  whence  ■ 
you  can  look  for  miles  to  the  southward,  across  the  Big  Basin,  i 
and  over  great  mountain  ranges.  i 

From   the    little   hamlet    of   La    Honda    the    road   proceeds      I 
northward    along    San    Gregorio    creek,    taking    you    into    the      I 
refreshing  depths  of  the  forest,  and  again  into  the  open,  until      i 
as  you  top  the  mountain  you   reach   a  point   from  which  you 
can    look    down    1 ,600    feet    and   see    spread   before   you    the 
whole  floor  of  the  Santa  Clara  valley.  i 

From  this  point  the  trip  down  the  mountains  is  by  a  very 
easy  grade  to  Woodside,  and  thence  to  Redwood  City,  30 
miles  south  of  San  Francisco,  on  the  State  Highway,  which 
affords  fine  traveling  all  the  way  back  to  the  city. 

On  this  trip,  called  the  Pescadero  and  Alpine  Mountain 
Drive,  there  are  many  beautiful  branch  roads  which  would 
keep  a  traveler  busy  and  delighted  for  weeks.  An  introduction 
is  all  that  is  necessary  to  make  an  enthusiastic  San  Francisco 
motorist  of  any  visitor  that  has  the  time  to  spend  in  the  State. 

III.       WISHBONE  ROUTE,  TO  SAN  JOSE  AND  OAKLAND. 

For  your  third  day's  tour  out  of  San  Francisco,  take  the 
"Wishbone  Route,"  around  the  south  arm  of  the  Bay,  into 
the  Santa  Clara  valley,  to  San  Jose,  and  up  the  east  shore 
through  Mission  San  Jose,  Hayward,  San  Leandro  and  Oak- 
land. It  will  give  you  one  hundred  miles  of  smooth  going, 
through  charming  country,  with  a  great  variety  of  scene,  but 
on  the  whole,  quieter  and  more  restful  than  the  mountains. 


Automobiling  323 


Take  the  same  route  to  San  Mateo  outlined  in  the  previous 
trip,  and  continue  southward  through  Redwood  City,  Menio 
Park,  and  Palo  Alto,  the  former  location  of  Senator  Stanford's 
famous  stock  farm,  and  now  the  site  of  Leland  Stanford 
Junior  University. 

There  are  several  good  hotels  in  San  Jose,  and  a  most  inter- 
esting and  beautiful  country  can  be  seen  from  here.  To  return 
to  San  Francisco  in  a  day,  however,  and  see  the  east  side  of 
the  Bay,  go  northward  by  the  Gish  road  and  the  Milpitas  road 
to  Irvington,  and  here  take  the  right-hand  road  for  Mission  Sau 
Jose,  1  6  miles  from  the  city  of  San  Jose.  This  is  a  typical  old 
California  town.  Relics  of  the  mission  and  part  of  the  old 
adobe  buildings  are  still  in  the  keeping  of  the  church,  and  vis- 
itors are  welcome.  Near  Irvington  is  the  celebrated  Lachman 
home,  known  as  Palmdale,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  estates 
in  California. 

From  the  southerly  point  of  Lake  Chabot  the  road  turns 
where  is  located  the  largest  single  block  nursery  in  the  world. 
Here  you  take  the  boulevard  for  Haytvard,  passing  the  Ma- 
sonic Home  at  Decoto.  There  is  a  delightful  straight  run  to 
San  Leandro  and  in  to  Oakland,  by  way  of  Elmhurst,  Fitch- 
burg,  Melrose,  with  its  ostrich  farm,  Fruitvale  and  across  Lake 
Merritt  dam  to  Broadway,  at  the  foot  of  which  you  take  the 
Oakland  Harbor  Ferry,  (Southern  Pacific),  for  San  Francisco. 

IV.       MARIN    COUNTY   AND   THE    MT.    TAMALPAIS   COUNTRY. 

Marin  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  touring  counties  in  the 
State,  with  a  varied  scenery  of  ever  changing  charm.  Here 
it  is  not  a  question  which  is  the  most  beautiful  route,  but  which 
of  many  beautiful  ones  to  recommend  for  a  day's  tour.  Prob- 
ably the  most  serviceable  to  suggest  is  to  San  Anselmo,  Lagu- 
nitas  Creek,  San  Geronimo  and  Petaluma. 

Take  the  Northwestern  Pacific  Ferry  to  Sausalilo.  Proceed 
northwesterly  to  Corle  Madera,  Larkspur,  Kentfield  and  San 
Anselmo,  all  nestled  in  the  picturesque  valleys  that  radiate 
from  the  base  of  Tamalpais. 


324  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

From  San  Anselmo  go  north  to  Fairfax.  Near  Fairfax  is 
a  well-known  French-Italian  restaurant,  Pasloris,  where  one 
dines  in  a  rustic  portico  over  a  stream.  Beyond  Fairfax  you 
ascend  the  famous  ''Whiles  Hilly 

Past  White's  Hill,  you  begin  to  get  into  the  mountains  and 
among  grand  Coast  Range  scenery,  with  forests  on  one  side 
and  cultivated  hills  and  opens  on  the  other.  The  road  runs 
along  Lagunitas  creek  to  San  Geronimo,  Lagunitas  and  Camp 
Taylor,  and  shortly  beyond  Tocaloma  you  take  a  northeasterly 
course  through  open  country  to  Peialuma. 

From  Petaluma  take  the  road  back  to  San  Rafael,  a  dis- 
tance of  20  miles.  From  this  point  you  can  take  the  road  over 
the  hill  to  Greenbrae,  whence  if  you  are  curious  about  such 
ihirgs  vcu  can  visit  the  State  Penitentiary  at  San  Quer-.tin,  or 
com.e  directly  back  to  Sausalito  and  San  Francisco. 

Another  fine  trip  in  this  region  is  to  turn  off  from  Fairfax 
to  the  southwest  and  go  to  Bolinas  Bav.  The  ocean  views  are 
superb. 

Another  beautiful  drive  from  Sausalito  is  to  Greenbrae, 
thence  southward  to  Tiburon  and  around  the  peninsula,  over- 
looking Raccoon  Straits  to  California  Cil\),  and  return ;  a  dis- 
tance, one  way,  of  approximately  sixteen  miles.  San  Rafael 
is  easily  reached  from  Greenbrae,  and  so  is  San  Quentin. 

V,       SONOMA    VALLEY,    THE    GEYSERS,    CLOVERDALE 
AND   LAKE   COUNTY. 

This  journey  is  at  your  discretion.  You  can  go  as  far  and 
''ay  as  long  as  you  like,  in  a  country  that  is  always  beautiful, 
j.r.J  (hat  changes  with  every  mile  you  make. 

Ncrlh  of  Petaluma  is  a  fairly  level  farming  country,  lying 
between  bold  hills,  and  affording  smooth  going,  up  to  Sanla 
Rosa.  At  Santa  Rosa  is  what  might  be  called  the  "home 
farm"  of  Luther  Burbank,  whose  horticultural  achievements 
have  made  hi5  name  famous  all  over  the  civilized  world. 


Automobiling  325 


Healdsburg  is  northward,  and  here  you  begin  to  get  into 
the  enchanting  valley  of  the  Russian  river,  lined  with  fine  vine- 
yards and  broad  orchard  lands,  all  the  way  to  Cloverdale. 

Just  beyond  Healdsburg  a  good  road  takes  off  for  the 
Censers,  a  natural  wonderland  where  one  sees  an  enormous  jet 
of  steam  rising  mountain  high,  and  other  interesting  phenomena. 
The  Geysers  are  1 8  miles  from  Healdsburg,  and  offer  the 
traveler  the  refreshment  of  a  steam  bath,  followed  by  a  plunge 
into  fresh  or  sulphur  water.     There  is  a  good  hotel. 

If  you  return  to  the  main  road  from  Healdsburg  to  Clover- 
dale  you  will  soon  arrive  at  Asti,  where  are  located  the  vine- 
yards and  huge  wineries  of  the  Italian-Swiss  Colony,  one  of 
the  largest  wine  making  concerns  in  California.  Here  is  the 
largest  wine  vat  in  the  world,  a  concrete  cistern  lined  with 
glass,  with  a  capacity  of  half  a  million  gallons.  Here  also  is 
California's  largest  champagne  producing  plant,  and  if  you 
are  there  in  May,  June  or  July,  you  can  see  the  highly  inter- 
esting processes  of  bottling  and  "disgorging"  champagne. 

Cloverdale,  beyond  Asti,  and  eighty  miles  north  of  San 
Francisco,  is  one  of  the  beauty  spots  of  California.  Oranges, 
lemons  and  citrons  grow  in  almost  every  garden.  A  mile  be- 
yond Cloverdale  is  McCray's,  or  "The  Old  Homestead,"  a 
popular  place  for  automobile  parties.  One  can  spend  the 
night  here  and  then  go  on  up  the  Russian  river  valley  to 
Pieta,  in  Mendocino  county,  whence  a  fine  highway  leads  over 
the  mountains  to  Highland  Springs  and  Lake  county. 

Lake  Counl}^  is  the  "Switzerland  of  California."  Here, 
within  a  radius  of  twenty  miles,  are  some  of  the  most  famous 
medicinal  springs  in  the  country,  with  mineral  waters  equal  to 
those  of  some  of  the  great  European  spas.  Here  also  is  Clear 
Lake,  a  fine  sheet  of  water  about  ten  miles  in  extreme  width 
by  twenty  in  length,  on  which  there  are  launches  and  other 
small  craft.  Lakeport,  on  the  western  shore  of  the  lake,  is 
about  eleven  miles  from  Highland  Springs,  and  thence  there 
is  a  good  road  over  the  mountains  to  Bartlett  Springs,  one  of 
the    most   popular    resorts    of   the    State.      On    this    road    one 


326  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

encounters  grades  of  8  to  10  per  cent,  but  the  views  are  well 
worth  it.  Other  well-known  resorts  in  this  celebrated  county 
are  Ziegler  Springs,  Harbin  Springs,  Howard,  Adams,  Sara- 
toga, Witter,  Anderson  and  Gordon  Springs,  and  the  Blue 
Lakes. 

A  traveler  by  automobile  can  leave  San  Francisco  on  a  Sat- 
urday, tour  the  whole  of  Lake  county  and  be  back  by  the  fol- 
lowing Wednesday  or  Thursday.  Or  he  can  follow  the  Rus- 
sian river  to  Ukiah,  county  seat  of  Mendocino  county,  by 
green  hop  fields  and  through  thick  woods  of  maple,  madrone 
and  redwood,  overgrown  with  wild  grapes  and  other  climbing 
vines,  make  a  trip  to  the  famous  Vichy  Springs  with  its  "cham- 
pagne bath,"  go  farther  north  to  Willits,  Sherwood  and 
Eureka,  and  from  there  tour  to  the  Oregon  line  and  Crater 
lake. 

Closer  to  San  Francisco  one  can  turn  off  to  the  eastward, 
three  or  four  miles  north  of  Santa  Rosa,  to  the  Petrified  Forest, 
where  giant  trees  have  been  turned  to  stone,  and  then  run  over 
to  Calistoga,  at  the  foot  of  Mt.  St.  Helena  and  the  head  of 
the  beautiful  Napa  Valley  (see  index),  one  of  the  garden 
spots  of  California.  This  valley  is  about  35  miles  in  length, 
and  can  be  followed  down  by  smooth  roads,  over  fine  stone 
bridges,  past  ivy-clad  wineries  and  through  the  beautiful  town  of 
St.  Helena  and  the  thriving  manufacturing  community  of  Napa, 
to  Vallejo,  whence  a  return  to  San  Francisco  can  be  made  by 
boat. 

VI.       OAKLAND,    LAKE   CHABOT,   PLEASANTON,   MISSION  SAN 
JOSE,   HAYWARD. 

This  is  an  irregular  circuit  of  about  75  miles,  leading 
through  a  fascinating  country  to  one  of  the  loveliest  of  lakes, 
to  the  Sunol  Water  Temple,  to  the  old  Spanish  town  of  Mis- 
sion San  Jose,  and  back  by  the  Foothill  Boulevard  to  Oakland 
and  the  ferry  for  San  Francisco.  It  can  be  made  in  a  day, 
leaving  San  Francisco  by  9  a.  m.,  and  returning  in  time  for 
dinner,  with  time  for  a  picnic  luncheon  at  Sunol  if  you  wish. 


Automobiling 


327 


THE   WATER   TEMPLE  AT   SUNOL. 


Take  Oakland  Harbor  Ferry,  at  the  slip  south  of  the  Ferry 
building,  which  runs  half-hourly  beginning  at  6  a.  m.  This 
will  land  you  at  the  foot  of  Broadway,  Oakland.  Run  up 
Broadway  to  Twelfth  street,  turn  to  the  right  on  Twelfth, 
cross  the  Lake  Merritt  dam,  and  just  beyond  the  dam  turn  to 
the  left  into  the  Lake  Shore  Boulevard.  Where  this  drive 
makes  a  bend  to  the  left,  following  the  margin  of  the  lake,  turn 
to  the  right  instead,  making  a  hairpin  turn  straight  south  one 
block  to  East  Sixteenth  street.  Follow  East  Sixteenth  east- 
wardly  to  Fourteenth  avenue,  where  it  turns  to  the  left  a  short 
block ;  and  proceed  again  eastwardly  on  East  Sixteenth  and 
cut  the  Foothill  Boulevard. 

This  is  good  going  along  the  foothills,  very  beautiful  here, 
with  views  across  Oakland's  inner  harbor,  crowded  with  the 
masts  of  sailing  vessels. 

After  crossing  San  Leandro  creek  on  the  concrete  bridge, 
turn  up  hill  to  the  left  just  before  reaching  old  Hunters'  Inn, 
now  headquarters  for  an  automobile  club,  and  after  a  distance 
of  about  two  blocks  take  the  turn  to  the  right,  which  will  put 
you  on  the  road  to  Lal(e  Chahol. 

From  the  southerly  point  of  Lake  Chabot  the  road  turns 
southward  (to  the  right),  and  after  about  five  miles,  with  a 
left  turn   and   a  right   turn,   it  will   lead   you  into  the   Dublin 


32B  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

Cannon  road  a  short  distance  east  of  Hayward. 

On  reaching  DubHn,  continue  eastward  to  the  first  or  second 
right  turnout,  and  thence  drop  southward  to  Pleasanton.  You 
are  now  in  the  lovely  Livermore  valley,  between  the  north 
end  of  the  Mt.  Hamilton  range  and  the  south  slopes  of  the 
Mt.  Diablo  range,  a  farming  country  as  rich  as  it  is  beautiful. 

On  a  rise  of  ground  near  Pleasanton  is  the  Hacienda  of 
Mrs.  Phoebe  Hearst,  where  the  grounds  and  gardens  exhibit 
the  full  possibilities  of  a  rich  soil  and  the  benign  California 
climate. 

Southward  from  Pleasanton  is  the  old  town  of  Sunol,  and 
near  it  the  classic,  circular  Water  Temple  of  the  Spring  Valley 
Water  Company,  the  corporation  which  supplies  San  Francisco 
with  water. 

A  most  enjoyable  hour  or  two  can  be  spent  here.  On 
leaving,  go  south  over  the  hill  to  Mission  San  Jose,  and  back 
to  San  Francisco  over  the  Foothill  Boulevard  by  way  of 
Hayward. 

VII.       STOCKTON   AND   THE   SAN    JOAQUIN   VALLEY 

SACRAMENTO. 

The  great  interior  valley  of  California  can  be  reached  by 
automobile  from  San  Francisco  with  ease  and  comfort,  and 
few  trips  will  give  a  better  idea  of  the  agricultural  character 
and  resources  of  the  State.  It  is  level  going,  and  full  of  variety 
and  the  most  intense  interest. 

Go  to  San  Leandro  by  the  Foothill  Boulevard  from  Oak- 
land, as  on  the  previously  described  trip,  and  from  San  Lean- 
dro continue  to  Hayward.  From  Hayward  take  the  Dublin 
canyon  road,  and  follow  it  eastward  to  Livermore  and  Tracy. 
Between  these  pomls,  beyond  Altamont,  a  road  takes  off  for 
Byron  Hot  Springs.  From  Tracy  there  is  no  danger  of  get- 
ting off  the  Stockton  road,  which  is  a  macadamized  boulevard. 
From  San  Francisco  to  Stockton  is  about  80  miles,  and  the 
run  can  be  made  easily  in  four  hours. 


Automobiling  329 


The  return  to  this  city  from  Stockton  can  be  best  made  over 
the  same  route,  except  that  one  can  vary  it  by  coming  through 
Mission  San  Jose. 

If  it  is  desired  to  make  a  longer  trip  out  of  San  Francisco 
and  see  more  of  the  San  Joaquin  and  Sacramento  valleys,  go 
north  from  Stockton  about  47  miles  to  Sacramento.  The  road 
is  a  model  smooth  asphalt-macadam  boulevard,  running  near 
Lodi,  center  of  a  great  Tokay  grape  district,  a  region  that 
supplies  fancy  table  grapes  to  Chicago  and  New  York ;  through 
Gait,  the  center  of  a  rich  farming  region,  and  on  across  the 
Cosumnes  river  to  the  Capital  of  the  State.  Some  of  the 
attractions  of  Sacramento  have  been  noted  in  another  part 
of  this  book,  and  can  be  found  by  consulting  the  index. 

LAKE    TAHOE. 

From  Sacramento  there  is  a  fine  road  to  Folsom,  site  of 
one  of  the  State  penitentiaries,  a  good  road  from  Folsom  to 
Placerville,  and  from  Placerville  another  fine  stretch  of  road 
up  mto  the  mountams  to  Tallac,  on  Lake  Tahoe.  As  this  is 
being  written,  the  State  Engineer's  forces  are  constructing  a 
road  around  the  western  rim  of  the  lake,  by  Emerald  Bay,  to 
Tahoe  Tavern.  Thus  a  wonderland  of  mountain  scenery  as 
grand  and  beautiful  as  any  to  be  found  in  Europe  is  brought 
within  easy  automobile  travel   from  San  Francisco. 

VIII.       CLAREMONT,    WALNUT    CREEK,    MARTINEZ,    THE 
GRAND   STRAITS   VI EV/. 

This  trip  will  show  you  wonderful  scenery — the  road  from 
Martinez  to  Port  Costa,  narrow  and  crooked,  but  affording  a 
panorama  and  water  view  nothing  less  than  sublime.  It  is 
better  not  to  attempt  it  in  the  rainy  season. 

Take  the  Oakland  Harbor  Ferry  to  the  foot  of  Broadway, 
Oakland.  Run  out  Broadway  as  far  as  Telegraph  avenue, 
out  Telegraph  avenue  to  Claremont  avenue,  out  Claremont 
avenue  to  Claremont,  with  its  fine  hotel,  and  here  take  the 
"Tunnel  Road"  to  Contra  Costa  county,  Lafayette  and  Wal- 


330  Handboolf  for  San  Francisco 

nut  Creek.  From  Walnut  Creek,  go  northward  through  Pa- 
checo  to  Martinez.  Mt.  Diablo  will  be  on  your  right.  Its 
forested  slopes  and  long  green  canyons  winding  down  to  the 
plain  on  which  you  are  riding  make  a  grand  landscape. 

From  Martinez  take  the  Port  Costa  road.  It  mounts  the 
hills  above  the  railroad  track,  skirts  the  heights  from  two  to 
three  hundred  feet  above  the  water,  and  in  places  more,  winds 
up  to  the  heads  of  long  gullies  and  runs  out  in  startling  hairpin 
bends  around  the  contours  of  ridges  where  a  timid  traveler 
may  have  some  breathless  moments — and,  to  repeat,  it  should 
not  be  undertaken  except  when  the  roads  are  dry,  and  then  only 
by  experienced  drivers.  But  here  is  one  of  the  great  views  of 
the  continent. 

You  look  down  on  the  Straits  of  Carquinez,  one  of  the  sig- 
nificant water  passes  of  the  western  world,  for  it  carries  the 
drainage  and  a  large  part  of  the  commerce  of  the  interior 
valleys  of  California  down  to  the  Bay  and  the  city  by  the 
Golden  Gate.  It  gleams  and  shines  directly  below  you  from 
a  dozen  different  turns  of  this  crooked  road.  It  bears  Italian 
salmon  boats,  barges,  river  craft  with  garden  produce  and  with 
more  substantial  commodities  from  up  the  Sacramento  or  the 
San  Joaquin — square-nosed  "hookers"  with  baled  hay  or  huge 
deck-loads  of  raw  wool,  or  sacked  wheat  and  barley.  On 
the  opposite  shore  is  Benicia,  and,  down  stream,  Vallejo,  with 
Mare  Island,  where  the  United  States  Navy  Yard  is  located. 
There  is  a  long  jetty  running  out  to  confine  the  current  and 
keep  sufficient  depth  in  the  channel.  Beyond  are  rolling, 
tumbling  hills,   framing  broad  and  fertile  valleys. 

From  Port  Costa  one  can  run  in  to  Oakland  by  way  of 
Crockett,  Pinole  and  San  Pablo,  within  sight  of  the  bay  almost 
all  the  distance,  and  down  San  Pablo  avenue  through  West 
Berkeley  to  Broadway,  Oakland,  at  the  foot  of  which  thor- 
oughfare is  the  Oakland  Harbor  Ferry  for  San  Francisco.  On 
another  day,  you  can  make  a  trip  by  the  Tunnel  Road  to 


Aulomobiling  33 


IX.       MOUNT  DIABLO. 

This  mountain  rises  over  4,000  feet  and  because  of  its 
central  location  gives  one  of  the  most  magnificent  views  in  the 
State.  A  good  automobile  road  now  runs  to  the  summit,  where, 
in  days  of  old,  travelers  used  to  ascend  by  a  horse-drawn 
stage  coach  from  Oakland  and  feel  that  they  were  more  than 
repaid  by  the  grand  landscape. 

From  the  top  you  look  out  westward  over  the  Bay  of  San 
Francisco,  and  the  city,  if  it  is  clear;  out  the  Golden  Gate, 
and  up  the  velvet  flanks  of  Tamalpais.  San  Pablo  Bay,  Car- 
quinez  Straits  and  Suisun  Bay  are  part  of  the  wondrous  pic- 
ture. You  can  see  the  great  rivers  of  California  and  their 
delta  lands,  the  northern  end  of  the  San  Joaquin  and  southern 
end  of  the  Sacramento  valleys ;  the  range  of  the  Sierra  Nevada 
mountains,  sharply  serrated,  spread  with  great  snow  fields, 
from  the  region  of  Mt.  Shasta  to  the  region  of  Mt.  Whitney. 
You  can  see,  also,  Mt.  Hamilton  as  a  near  neighbor,  and  the 
Santa  Clara  valley  at  its  feet. 

X.      MISSION  SAN  JUAN  BAUTISTA,  DEL  MONTE,  MONTEREY, 
PACIFIC    GROVE. 

It  is  127  miles  from  San  Francisco  to  the  famous  California 
travel  resort  of  Del  Monte,  by  way  of  San  Jose  and  Gilroy ; 
and  three  miles  and  a  half  farther  to  Pacific  Grove,  through 
Monterey,  the  old  Spanish  capital  of  California.  It  is  an  easy 
and  beautiful  day's  ride,  one  way.  As  you  can  get  good 
accommodations  at  any  of  the  points  mentioned  on  Monterey 
Bay,  it  would  be  better  to  take  two  days  at  least  for  this 
tour,  and  add  to  it  the  1  7-mile  ocean  shore  drive  out  of  Del 
Monte  or  Pacific  Grove,  with  its  recent  extensions. 

Run  straight  down  to  San  Jose  from  this  city,  a  distance 
of  52. 1  miles  by  the  road.  From  San  Jose  follow  First  street 
southeast,  down  the  center  of  the  Santa  Clara  valley  to  Gilroy. 

This  is  old,  Spanish  California,  a  chosen  land  of  priest 
and  hidalgo,  of  mission  and  cattle  barony,  and  of  an  idyllic 
life  in  a  land  of  sunshine  and  plenty. 


332 


Handbooli  for  San  Francisco 


I\    THE    DEL    MOXTE    GROUNDS. 


Frcm  Gilroy  go  scuih  by  way  of  5argenl  to  old  San  Juan. 
Here  a  modern  town  has  grown  up,  but  It  is  behind  the  plaza 
and  hidden  from  it.  Once  in  the  three-sided  square  of  Spanish 
times,  and  the  scene  is  the  same  as  it  was  a  hundred  years  ago. 
For  information  on  the  Mission  San  Juan  Bautista,  see  index. 

A  delightful  side  trip  of  eight  miles  up  the  little  San  Juan 
valley  will  bring  you  to  Hollister,  one  of  the  prettiest  towns 
in  California,  and  the  county  seat  of  San  Benito  county.  Or 
you  can  take  the  road  direct  from  San  Juan  southerly,  and 
then  southwesterly  over  the  hills  to  Salinas,  being  careful  to 
take  the  left  turn,  due  south,  at  Santa  Rita.  Three  miles 
south  of  Salinas  you  come  to  the  Spreckds  beet  sugar  refinerv, 
at  Spreckels.  The  main  building  here  is  103  feet  wide,  500 
feet  long,  and  six  stories  high,  and  can  dispose  of  3,000  tons 
of  beets  in  24  hours.  When  in  operation  it  employs  from 
800  to  1,000  men  and  can  turn  out  half  a  million  100-pound 
bags  of  sugar  in  a  season's  run  of   70  days.      It  is  a  jungle 


Automobiling 


333 


Tibbitts,    photo 
MIDWAY    rOTNT,    17-MILE    DRIVE,    MONTEREY    COUNTY. 

of  pumps,  presses,  vacuum  pans,  and  mazes  of  electrically 
operated  tram  ways,  well  worth  stopping  a  few  minutes  to  see, 
if  you  can  gain  admittance. 

On  Monterey  Bay  one  reaches  the  125-acre  park  in  which 
is  situated  the  Hotel  Del  Monte.  These  grounds  contain 
every  form  of  plant  life  that  can  be  made  to  grow  in  this 
genial  climate,  and  in  addition  there  are  golf  links  and  tennis 
courts  where  the  finest  of  outdoor  sport  can  be  enjoyed  right 
through  the  winter. 

Some  of  the  charms  of  old  Monterey,  and  Pacific  Grove, 
we  have  attempted  to  note  elsewhere  in  this  book,  and  at  least 
some  mention  of  them  can  be  found  by  consulting  the  index. 
Readily  accessible  from  these  points  is  the  famous  Seventeen- 
Mile  Drive,  with  possibilities  of  extending  it,  and  taking  in 
Carmel  Bay,  Carmel  Mission  and  the  literary  cblony  at  Car- 
mel-by-the-Sea.  No  traveler  that  has  the  time  should  omit 
this  excursion.     The  views  of  the  ocean  with  its  broken  shore 


334 


Handboolf  for  San  Francisco 


line,  its  bits  of  beach  and  rocky  coast,  of  the  sand  dunes  lying 
inland  sometimes  under  pine  woods,  and  the  strange  forms  of 
the  Monterey  cypresses,  like  gnarled  and  twisted  cedars  of 
Lebanon,  make  a  changing  panorama  such  as  you  will  find 
nowhere  else  except  on  the  canvases  of  some  of  our  enthusias- 
tic California  painters.  At  Carmel  Mission  Padre  Junipero 
Serra  is  buried,  and  the  church  contains  many  interesting  relics. 


1U(;    |{|;l)\V()()l)S    AT    SANTA    CIUIZ. 
XI.      SANTA   CRUZ,    BY   WAY   OF   SAN    JOSE   AND    LOS   GATOS. 

Santa  Cruz  is  the  popular  seaside  resort  at  the  north  end 
of  Monterey  Bay.  Near  it  is  a  grove  of  gigantic  Sequoia 
Sempervirens,  individual  specimens  of  which  rank,  for  size, 
with  some  of  the  Big  Trees  in  the  Sierra.  Two  days  at 
least  should  be   given   this  expedition. 

Go  south  to  San  Jose  as  directed  for  trips  II  and  III,  leave 
San  Jose  by  way  of  Market  street  and  San  Carlos  street,  and 
continue  southward  to  Los  Gatos.    Or,  if  you  have  seen  San 


Aulomohilmg  335 

Jose,  you  can  save  some  14  miles  by  taking  off  to  the  right 
at  Mayfield  and  running  along  the  foot  of  the  hills  to  Los 
Gatos. 

From  Los  Gatos  take  the  canyon  road  through  the  Santa 
Cruz  mountains  to  Soquel,  overlooking  the  Bay  of  Monterey. 
The  run  through  the  mountains  will  take  you  through  I  3  miles 
of  wonderful  scenery,  the  climax  of  which  will  be  the  grand 
views,  from  the  down  grade,  into  the  amphitheater  of  Monterey 
Bay. 

From  Soquel  to  Santa  Cruz  you  will  run  along  the  rim  of 
the  bay  for  four  miles,  the  mountains  marching  on  your  right 
and  the  blue  waters  of  the  bay  breaking  into  snow-white  surf 
on  the  yellow  sands  below. 

When  you  have  reached  Santa  Cruz  you  will  have  made 
90  miles  from  San  Francisco.  Here  are  fine  bathing  beaches, 
a  swimming  tank,  a  great  casino,  two  or  three  good  hotels, 
one  of  the  finest  golf  courses  in  California,  and  in  the  vicinity 
many  summer  homes  of  San  Franciscans. 

If  you  stop  over  at  Santa  Cruz,  you  will  find  it  an  easy 
and  delightful  ride  up  the  San  Lorenzo  river  into  the  Santa 
Cruz  mountains  to  the  Big  Trees,  Felton  and  Boulder  Creek. 
From  Boulder  Creek  it  is  about  ten  miles  into  the  Big  Basin, 
a  State  park  consisting  of  3,800  acres  of  magnificent  virgin 
California  forest,  with  a  grove  of  monster  Sequoia  Semper- 
virens. 

Returning  to  San  Francisco,  you  have  a  choice  between 
the  route  you  took  going  down  and  the  Bear  Creek  route, 
which  will  take  you  through  40  miles  of  the  most  romantic 
scenery  imaginable. 

It  would  take  a  larger  volume  than  this  even  to  enumerate 
the  interesting  automobile  trips  one  can  make  from  San  Fran- 
cisco. The  above,  however,  will  furnish  a  suggestion  of  the 
varied  topography  of  the  neighborhood,  and  the  beauties  and 
sublimities  of  California  scenes. 


336  Handbook  f^f  S<^^  Francisco 

Automobile,  Taxicab  and 
Carriage  Fares 

Automobiles  can  be  hired  at  rates  varying  from  $2.50  to  $4.50  per  hour, 
according  to  the  capacity  and  quality  of  the  vehicle. 

At  the  time  this  book  went  to  pre.ss,  October,  1913,  the  follo^^dng  were  the 
legal  maximum  rates. 

AUTOMOBILES 

FOUE-PASSENGEE  CAPACITY,  EXCLUSIVE  OF  DEIVEE 

First  half  hou/  or  fraction  thereof $2  .00 

Each  subsequent  hour 3.50 

SIX-PASSENGEE  CAPACITY,  EXCLUSIVE  OF  DEIVEE 

First  half  hour  or  fraction  thereof $2  .  .50 

Each  sub.seqent  hour 4  .  50 

TAXICABS     (Meter  Rates) 

TAEIFF  No.  1   a  OE  2  PASSENGEES) 

First  3-5  mile  or  fraction  thereof $    .00 

Each  1-5  of  a  mile  thereafter 10 

Each  three  minutes  of  waiting 10 

TAEIFF  No.  2   i3   OE  4  PASSENGEES) 

First  ^  mile  or  fraction  thereof 60 

Each  1-6  of  a  mile  thereafter 10 

Each  three  minutes  of  waiting 10 

For  each  additional  passenger  over  four  persons   for  the  entire  journey 50 

TAXICABS     (Hour  Rates) 

For  a  taxicab  by  the  hour S3  .50 

First  half  hour  or  fraction  thereof , 2.00 

The  passenger,  when  engaging  a  taxicab,  must  state  whether  he  will  employ 
it  by  meter  or  hour  rates. 

CARRIAGES  AND  HACKS 

TWO-HOESE   CAEEIAGE,  FOUE  PASSENGEES  OE  LESS 

First  half  hour  or  fractiou  thereof .SI  .00 

Each  subsequent  half  hour -.  .  . 1  .00 

Waiting  time  to  be  at  above  rates. 

TWO-HOESE   COUPE   OE  HACK,  TWO  PASSENGEES  OE  LESS 

First  half  hour  nr  fractiou  thiTcof -S    .  75 

Each  sub.sequeiit  half  hour 75 

FLAT  RATES  TO  DOWNTOWN  HOTELS 

Taxicabs,  automobiles  and  carriages  are  re<)uired  by  the  city  ordinances  to 
carry  passengers  from  the  Ferry  Depot,  the  Third  atid  Townsend  Street  railroad 
depot  or  the  steamboat  landings  and  steamship  docks  to  any  of  the  downtown 
hotels  located  in  the"  Downtown  Hotel  District"  for  a  flat  rate.  This  rate 
had  not  been  firudly  established  at  the  time  this  book  went  to  press.  Drivers 
will  fumi.sh  the  flat  rate  upon  demand.  The  above  flat  rate  does  not  apply  to 
limousines  or  seven-passenger  touring  cars  furnished  upon  special  call  and  not 
occupying  public  space  for  hire. 


Street  Car  Routes  337 


STREET  CAR  ROUTES 


Numbered  Lines  of  the  United  Railroads 
Electric  Cars 


Car  1,  Sutter  and  California.  Out,  Market  from  Ferry  Depot  to  Sutter  to 
Presidio  Avenue  to  California  to  33rd  via  Scenic  Boulevard  to  Sutro  Heights. 

Car  2,  Sutter  and  Clement.  Out  Market  from  Ferry  Depot  to  Sutter  to 
Presidio  Avenue  to  California  to  Parker  Avenue  to  Euclid  Avenue  to  Arguello 
Boulevard  to  Clement  to  33rd  to  Geary  to  Sutro  Baths. 

Car  3,  Sutter  and  Jackson.  Out  Market  from  Ferry  Depot  to  Sutter  to 
Fillmore  to  Jackson  to  Presidio  Avenue  to  California. 

Car  4,  Turk  and  Eddy.  Out  Market  from  Ferry  Depot  to  Eddy  to  Divi-sa- 
dero  to  Sacramento  to  Lake  to  Sixth  to  Clement  to  Eighth  to  Fulton  to  Sixth  to 
Lake  to  Sacramento  to  Divisadero  to  Turk  to  Mason  to  Eddy  to  Market,  starting 
point.  Cars  start  at  Powell,  Market  and  Eddy  Streets,  from  4:35  p.  m.  to  6:39 
p.  m. 

Car  5,  McAllister.  Out  Market  from  Ferry  Depot  to  McAllister  to  Fulton 
to  Beach. 

Car  6,  Hayes.  Out  Market  from  Ferry  Depot  to  Hayes  to  Fillmore  to  Pase 
to  Ma.sonic  to  Frederick  to  Clayton  to  Carl  to  Stanyan  to  Parnassus  to  .Jud.ah 
to  Ninth  Avenue  to  Forest  Hill. 

Car  7,  Halght.  Out  Market  from  Ferry  Depot  to  Haight  to  (Jolden  (iatc 
Park. 

Car  8,  Market.     Out  Market  from  Ferry  Depot  to  Castro  to  ISth. 

Car  9,  Valencia.  Out  Market  from  Ferrv  Depot  to  Valencia  to  Mission  to 
29th  to  Noe. 

Car  10,  Sunnyside  (Glen  Park).  Out  Mission  from  Ferry  Depot  to  14th 
to  Guerrero  to  San  .Jose  .\ venue  to  30th  to  Chenery  to  Diamond  to  San  Jose 
Avenue  to  Sunnyside  .-Vvenue  to  Genessee. 

Car  11,  Mission  and  Twenty-fourth.  Out  Mission  from  Ferry  Depot  to 
22nd  to  Dolores  to  24th  to  Hoffman  Avenue:  returning  via  same  route  except 
between  22nd  and  22th,  on  Chattanooga  instead  of  Dolores. 

Car  12,  Ingleside.  Out  mission  from  Ferry  Depot  to  Onondaga  to  Ocean 
Avenue  to  Sloat  Boulevard  to  the  Beach. 

Car  14,  Cemeteries.  Out  Mission  from  Ferry  Depot  to  Daly  City  and 
Colma  to  Cemeteries,  via  San  Jose  Road.  Line  runs  only  to  Daly  Citv  after 
7;07  p.  m. 

Car  15,  Third,  Kearny  and  North  Beach.  From  Third  and  Townsenil 
via  Third  to  Kearny  to  Broadway  to  Powell  to  Jefferson:  returning  from 
Jefferson  to  Powell,  via  Powell,  to  Columbus  Avenue  to  Union  to  Stockton  to 
Broadway  to  Ktarny  to  Third  to  Townsend  St.  Decot. 


338  Handboolf  for  San  Francisco 


Car  16,  Third  and  Kentucky — Ferry.  From  Ferry  Depot  via  Embarca- 
<Iero  to  Broadway  to  Kearny  to  Third  to  Berry  to  Fourth  to  Kentucky  to 
Kailroad  Avenue  to  32nd. 

Railroad  Avenue  Extension.  From  32iid  and  Railroad  Avenue  via  Rail- 
road Avenue  to  San  Bruno  Avenue  to  Milliken  Avenue  to  Sunnydale  Avenue 
to  Six  Mile  House. 

Car  17,  Ellis  and  Ingleside.  From  Third  and  Townsend  via  Townsend 
to  Fourth  to  I'^llis  to  Divi.sadeto  to  Page  to  Staiiyan  to  Frederick  to  Lincoln  Way 
to  Twentieth  to  W.  Street  to  19th  Avenue  to  Sloat  Boulevard  to  Ocean  Avenue 
to  Ingleside  Terrace. 

Car  18,  Mission.  From  Fifth  and  Market  via  Fifth  to  Mission  to  Onondaga 
Avenue. 

Note: — Sundays  the  line  is  extended  to  Holy  Cross  via  Mission  and  San  Jose 
Road . 

Car  19,  Ninth  and  Polk.  From  Polk  and  Lombard  via  Polk  to  Post  to 
Larkin  cros.sing  Market  to  Ninth  to  Brannan. 

Car  20,  Ellis  and  Ocean.  From  Third  and  Townsend  via  Townsend  to 
Fourth  to  Ellis  to  Divisadero  to  Page  to  Stanyan  to  Frederick  to  Lincoln  Way 
to  49th  Avenue  to  B  Street:  returning  via  49th  Avenue  to  Lincoln  Way  to 
Frederick  to  Stanyan  to  Oak  to  Divisadero  to  O'Farrell  to  Hyde  to  Ellis  to 
Fourth  to  Townsend  to  starting  point. 

Car  21,  Hayes  and  Ellis.  From  Fourth  and  Market  via  Ellis  to  Divi-sadoro 
to  Hayes  to  Stanyan  to  Fulton:  returning  via  Stanyan  to  Hayes  to  Divisadero 
to  O'Farrell  to  Hyde  to  Ellis  to  starting  point. 

Car  22,  Fillmore  and  Sixteenth.  From  Broadway  and  Fillmore  via 
Fillmore  to  Duboce  Id  Church  to  16th  to  Bryant. 

Note: — From  6:37i  a.  m.  to  8:25  a.  m.,  and  from  4:29  p.  m.  to  5:49  p.  m.,  in 
addition  to  the  above  mentioned  route,  the  line  runs  over  the  following  exten- 
sion; from  16th  and  Bryant  to  Kansas  to  17th  to  Connecticut  to  18th  to  Ken- 
tucky to  23rd. 

Fillmore  Hill.  This  extension  of  Line  No.  22  runs  from  Broadway  and 
Fillmore  via  Fillmore  to  the  Bay  (the  entrance  to  the  Exposition  Grounds). 

Car  23,  Fillmore  and  Valencia.  From  Divi.sadero  and  Sacramento  via 
Sacramento  to  Fillmore  to  McAllister  to  Gough  to  Market  to  Valencia  to  Mis- 
sion to  Richland   .Vvenue. 

Note:-  -On  Sundays  only  this  line  is  extended  from  Divi.sadero  and  Sacra- 
mento via  Sacramento  to  First  Avenue  to  Lake  to  Sixth  to  Fulton  to  Eighth  to 
Clement  to  Sixth  to  Lake  to  Fir-<t  Avenue  to  Sacramento. 

Car  24,  Mission  and  Richmond.  From  Bank  Street  and  Cortland  Avenue 
via  Cortland  .\veiiue  to  .Mission  to  16th  to  Church  to  Duboce  to  Fillmore  to  Oak 
to  Divisadero  to  Sacramento  to  Lake  to  Sixth  to  Fulton  to  Eighth  to  Clement 
to  Sixth  to  Lake  to  Sacramento  to  Divisadero  to  Page  to  Fillmore  to  Duboce  to 
Church  to  16th  to  Mission  to  Cortland  Avenue  and  Bank  Street. 

Car  25,  San  Bruno.  From  Fifth  and  Market  via  Fifth  to  Bryant  to  Army  to 
San  Bruno  lioad  to  Dwight. 

Note:      l.iiic  IcrMiinates  at  22ud  and  Mission  after  8  p.  m. 

Car  26,  Guerrero  (Ocean  View).  From  Ferry  Depot  via  Mis.sion  to  14th  to 
Guerrero  to  San  Jose  Avenue  to  30th  to  Chenery  to  Diamond  to  San  Jose  Avenue 
to  Daly  City. 

Car  27,  Bryant.      From   2nd   and    Market    via  2nd   to   Bryant,    to   26th    to 
Mission:  returning  via  26th  to  Bryant,  to  10th   to   Brannan,  to  2nd  to  Market. 
Note: — Line  terminates  at  Fifth  and  Market  after  7:50  p.  m. 


Street  Car  Routes  339 


Unnumbered  Lines 

(ELECTRIC   CABS) 

•"  Divisadero  Street  Extension.     The  line  runs  on  Divisadero  from  Sacra- 
mento to  Jackson  com.  ecting  with  lines  numbered  3,  4  and  24. 

"    Eighteenth  and  Park.     From  Stanyan  and  Waller  to  Clayton  to  Frederick 
to  Ashbury  to  Casselli  Avenue  to  Falcon  Avenue  to  18th  to  Guerrero  to  14th  to 
Harrison  to  Third. 
^  Note:     Line  runs  only  to  8th  and  Harrison  after  7:04  p.  m. 

''   Parkside.     From  35th  and  Sloat  Boulevard  via  3.5th  to  V  Street  to  33rd 
Avenue  to  T  Street  to  20th  Avenue. 

San  Mateo.  From  5th  and  Market  to  5th  to  Mission  to  San  Jose  road  to 
Cemeteries  to  BurUngame  to  San  Mateo. 

Visitacion.  From  Mi.s.sion  and  Geneva  Avenue  via  Geneva  Avenue  to 
Walbridge  Avenue  to  Schwerin  to  McDonald  to  County  Line  to  Milliken  Avenue 
to  Sunnydale  Avenue  to  Six  Mile  Hou.se. 

South  San  Francisco,  Railroad  and  Peninsula  Co.  (South  City  Line.) 
From  Paint  Factory  via  P.  R.  W.  to  South  City  (South  San  Francisco)  to  Holy 
Cross  cemetery. 

Twenty-second  and  Howard.  From  Army  and  Precita  via  Army,  Folsom, 
26th,  Howard,  22nd,  Chattanooga,  24th  to  Hoffman  Avenue:  returning  via  24th 
Dolores,  22nd,  Howard,  26th,  Folsom,  Precita  to  Army. 

BOSWOrth  Street.  From  Glen  Park  and  Berkshire  via  Berkshire  to  Bos- 
worth  to  Mis.sion. 

Folsom.  From  Precita  Avenue  and  FoLsom  via  Folsom  to  Embarcadero  to 
the  Ferry  Depot. 

Howard  Line.  From  Rhode  Island  and  24th,  via  24th,  to  Howard  to 
Kmbarcadero  to  Ferry  Depot.     lAiie  runs  to  22nd  and  Mission  after  12:20  a.  m. 

Montgomery  and  Tenth.  From  10th  and  Bryant,  via  10th,  Polk,  Grove, 
City  Hall  Avenue,  to  Leavenworth  to  Post  to  Montgomery  to  Washington  to 
Kearny. 

Sixth  and  Sansome.  From  Si-tth  and  Brannan,  via  6th  Street  to  Taylor 
to  Post  to  Kearny  to  Bu.sh  to  Sansome  to  Chestnut. 

Mission  and  Ocean.  (Sundays  and  Holidays  only).  From  the  Beach  via 
Sloat  Boulevard  to  Ocean  Avenue  to  Onondaga  to  Mi.s.sion  to  8th  to  Market. 

Eighth  and  Eighteenth  Streets  Line.  From  23rd  and  Kentucky,  via 
Kentucky,  to  18th  to  Connecticut  to  17th  to  Kan.sas  to  16th  to  Bryant  "to  8th 
to  Market.  From  5:45  a.  m.  to  8:12  a.  in.  and  from  4:18  p.  m.  to"  6:36  p.  m. 
this  hne  runs  to  18th  and  Railroad  Avenue. 

Harrison  Street.  From  Third  and  Townsend,  via  3rd,  to  Brannan  to  2nil  to 
Bryant  to  Stanley  Place  to  Harrison  to  Steuart  to  Howard  to  Embarcadero  to 
the  Ferry  Depot. 

First  and  Fifth  Streets.  From  Fifth  and  Market,  via  5th,  to  Brannan  to 
2nd  to  Folsom  to  1st  to  Bush:  alternating  trip  to  Battery  and  ('alifornia:  re- 
turning via  Ist  to  Folsom  to  2nd  to  Brannan  to  3rd  to  Town.send  to  4th  to 
Brannan  to  5th  to  Market.  After  6  p.  m.  this  hne  runs  from  2nd  and  Market  to 
Bryant  and  Alameda  Streets,  from  2nd  and  Market  via  2nd  Street  to  Bryant  to 
Alameda:  returning  via  Bryant  to  10th  to  Brannan  to  2nd  to  .Market. 

Union  Street  Line.     From  Ferry  Depot  via  Embarcadero  to  Washinaton  to 
Montgomery  to  Columbus  Avenue  to  Union  to  Larkin  to  Vallejo  to  FrankUn  to     >-> 
Union  to  Lyon  into  the  Pre.sitlio  Reservation :  returning  over  satne  route  to  the    ^ 
Embarcadero  via  Jack.son  instead  of  Washington.     (To  he  operated  as  a  munici- 
pal hne  in  1914.) 


340  Handbook  for  San  Francisco 

CABLE  LINES 

Castro  Cable.     From  26th  and  Castro  via  Castro  to  18th  and  Castro. 

Jackson  Cable.  From  Jackson  and  Steiner,  via  Steiner,  to  Washington  to 
Powell  to  Market:  returning:  via  same  route  except  from  Powell  to  Steiner  via 
Jackson  instead  of  Washington. 

Powell  Cable.  From  Bay  and  Taylor,  via  Taylor,  to  Columbus  Avenue  to 
Mason  to  \\  ashinfiton  to  Powell  to  Market:  returning  via  .same  route,  except  over 
.lackson  between  Powell  and  Mason  instead  of  Washington. 

Sacramento  Cable.  From  Fillmore  and  Sacramento,  via  Sacramento,  to 
Larkin  to  Clay  to  lOmbarcadero  to  Ferry  Depot:  returning  via  Kmbarcadero  to 
Sacramento  to  Fillmore. 

Pacific  Avenue  Cable.  From  Divisadero  and  Pacific  Avenue,  via  Pacific 
Avenue,  to  Polk  Stivel. 


The  Geary  Street  Municipal  Line 

(ELECTRIC) 

Line  A.      From  Ferry  Depot  out  Market  to  (Jeary  to  Tenth  .\ venue  to  CoMcii 
fiate  Park. 

Line  B.      From  Ferry  Depot  out  Market  to  deary  to  .33ril  to  Balboa  to  15lh 
to  C'abrillo  to  the  Great  Highway. 

Note.      Additional  municipal  Wwrs  will  be  in  operation  by  19I-"). 


California    Street    Cable    Railway    Company 

(CABLE) 

California  Street  Line.     From   California  and    Market,   via  California,   to 

Presidio  .\\crLU('. 

Hyde  and  O'Farrell  Line.      From  Market  and  O'Farrell,  via  O'Farrell,  to 
Jones  to  Pine  to  H.\  <lc  lo  .N'orth  Point  Street. 

Jones  Street  Line.      Runs  on  Jones  from  O'Farrell  to  .Market. 


INDEX  TO  HANDBOOK 


Page   Nos. 

Alameda     262 

Alcatraz    Island    189 

Alligator  Farm    98 

Alpine  Drive 315 

American  Institute  of  Banking. 204 
Amundsen's  Sloop  "Gjoa".  .  .  .  1  55 
Andrews    Diamond    Palace.  ...    59 

Angel    Island     95 

Anza,  Juan  Baulista 7 

Ayala,    Lieut 7 

Appraisers  Building 89 

Armory    113 

Art  Association,  San  Francisco  160 

Ashbury  Reservoir    100 

Asfi  283-284-325 

Atchison,     Topeka     and     Santa 

Fe    Ry 47 

Auditoriums     1 30 

Automobiling    315  to  335 

Baggage 31 

Bakers   Beach    95 

Band  Concerts   in   the   Park    .  .  1 52 

Bank    Exchange    138 

Banks  and  Finance  .  .  .  .203  to  208 

Banks   and  Clearings    203 

Baseball     240 

Baths   and    Natatoria    47 

Battery,  Spencer 187 

Bay    Excursions    254 

Belvedere 271 

Benicia 290 

Berkeley     265 

Berkeley  and  the  University  of 

California 265 

Berkeley  Christian  Science 

Church   267 

Big  Basin,  California  Redwood 

Park     300 

Big  Trees 309 

^lack    Point   Cove    188 

K'nai    Brith    210 

Board  of  Trade   231 

Boat  Houses    246 

Sook  Stores    62-198 

Books  on  San  Francisco 190 


Page   Nos. 

Bowling  on  the  Green 251 

Broderick,  Senator    13 

Bryce's    Description    19 

Buena  Vista   Park    114 

Buffalo    Herd    152 

Burbank's  Farm  at  Santa  Rosa  281 


Caf 
Cal 
Cal 
Cal 
Cal 
Cal 
Cal 


ss    50 

fornia  City    324 

fornia  Development  Board   164 

fornia    Indians    163 

fornia    Market    180 

fornia  Street  Cable    92 

stoga     286 


Calvary    Cemetery    140 

Camera    Club    227 

Camp    Meeker     282 

Capitol    of    California    291 

Carmel    Mission    334 

Carquinez    Straits    and    Power 

Line    288-330 

Casey,  James  P 11 

Cemeteries    1 39 

Cemeteries    in    San    Mateo 

County    no 

Chamber  of  Commerce    231 

Chess  and  Checker  Club 193 

Chinese  Funeral  and  Wedding  70 
Chinese  Mortuary  Chapel  ....185 
Chinatown  Telephone  Exchange  73 

Chinese    Newspaper    77 

Chinese    Festivities    80 

Chinese    Processional   Dragon    .  1 59 

Chinese   Restaurants    71 

Christian    Science    Church    at 

Berkeley     267 

Churches    116  to   127 

Circuit  Court  of  Appeals 172 

City  Hall  (temporary  location)    177 

City    Prison     1 73 

Civic  Center 175 

Claremont 262 

Claus  Spreckels  Building 65 

Cliff  House 97 

Climate     20 

Cloverdale    283 


Page   Nos. 

Cloverdale    Citrus    Fair    284 

Clubs   and   Societies    223 

Colombo    Market    181 

Commercial  Organizations    ...  .231 

Comstock    Lode     60 

Comstock   Mmes    '3 

Conflagration  of    1906    17 

Cook   &   Sons,   Thos 46 

Coppa's    Restaurant    138 

Council  of  Women    227 

County    Relief    Home    99 

Cricket   242 

Crimmal    Courts    1 72 

Crocker  Art  Gallery    291 

Crossley    Reflector    297 

Crystal   Lakes    23 1 

Custom    House    89 

Customs  Regulations    22 

Desolation    Valley    313 

Dewey    Monument    62 

Diamond    Palace     59 

Drake's    Bay    186 

Dublin   Canyon    Road    327 

Dunning,  W.  H.  &  Co.   ......    46 

Dutch  Windmill    155 

Del  Monte 300 

East   Shore   Cities    ....257   to   262 

Educational  Facilities 210 

El  Camino  Real    148 

Elder's    Book    Store 162 

Electioneers    Skeleton    215 

Elk's  Hall  210 

Emanu-El    62 

Embarcadero    9-27 

Emperor  Norton    190 

Ems-Bourne   Tours   Co.    (Ltd.)    46 

Episcopal    Cathedral     90 

F.schscholtzia    Californica     ....  184 

Exposition  Tour   Co 46 

Express  Offices    221 

Emergency   Hospitals    220 

Fallen    Leaf    Lake    237 

Ferry  Boats 254  to  257 

Ferry    Building    85 

Fisherman's    Wharf    102 

Fishing     234 

Fly    Casting     238 

Football    241 

Foothill    Boulevard     260 


Page   Nos. 

Foieword     

Fort    Baker    273 

Fort    Barry    274 

Fort  Gunnybags    12 

Fort  Mason   188 

Fort    Miley    187 

Fort    McDowell    95 

Fort  Point    28 

Fort  Winfield   Scott    107-274 

Fruits — See    California     Devel- 
opment   Board    164 

Fruit  Pests 29 

French    Restaurants     M 

Caspar  de   Porlola    7 

German  House    210 

Getting  Up  Town 30 

Geysers   of   California    284 

Gjoa     155 

Glass-bottomed     Boat     302 

Glen    Alpine    Springs     312 

Goat    Island     24 

Gold    Discovered    291 

Gold    Production — See    Mining 

Bureau    166 

Golden    Gate     19 

Golden    Gate    Park    149 

Golf     246 

Great   Circle   Route    6 

Great    Highway    20 

Greek  Catholic  Cathedral    ....  106 

Greek  Colony    56 

Greek  Theater — Berkeley    ....265 

Grills    56 

Grove- Play  of  the  Bohemian 

Club   224 

Guerneville     281 

Gulf    of    the    Farallones     .  .  .  .6-28 

Half  Moon  Bay 298 

Hall    of    Justice    172 

Hall    of    Records    99 

Hamman  Baths 48 

Handball    248 

Harbor   View    188 

Havens   Art   Gallery    264 

Hay  ward    260 

Healdsburg     283-284 

Hearst   Collections — 

Anthropology     161 

High   Buildings    65 

Horseback    Riding    240 


Page   Nos. 

Horseshoe  Route 262 

Hospitals    and    Sanatoria    .  .  .  .218 
Hotel    Del    Monte    300 

Hotels  32  to  46 

House-numbering    Plan    20 

Hunters'  Point  Drydocks 25 

Hunting  Licenses    239 

Huntington    Falls    1 54 

Hyde   &   OTarrell    Street   Cars  92 

Indian    Basketry    163 

Information    Bureau    46 

Insectary     291 

Institute  of  Art 160 

Inverness  and  Tomales  Bay    ..282 

Ishi   163 

Islais    Creek    i  10 

James   King  of  William 11 

Japanese    Stores    71 

Japanese  Tea  Garden    1  53 

Jenny   Lind    Theater    1 73 

Junipero    Serra    7-302 

Key   Trolley   Trip    262 

King.    Thomas    Starr    13 

Knights  of  Columbus  Hall...    210 

La    Honda     322 

Lake  Chabot    268 

Lake  County 325 

Lake    Merced    . 113 

Lake  Merritt   259 

Lake  Shore  Boulevard 327 

Lake   Tahoe    312 

Latin  Quarter   88 

Laurel    Hill 141 

Leland  Stanford  Junior 

University     214 

Letterman    Hospital    219 

Libraries    192 

Lick    Monument    99 

Lick  Observatory    296 

Lime  Point    28 

Lincoln    Park 184 

Lloyd    Lake    1 54 

Lone  Mountain    1 39 

Lotta's   Fountain    133 

Mail    Docks     84 

Mare  Island  Navy  Yard 285 

Marin  and  Sonoma  Counties   ..280 


Page   No». 

Markets    180 

Marshall    Square    99 

Masonic   Cemeteries    144 

Masonic  Home    323 

Masonic  Temple 209 

Medal   Presented  to  San  Fran- 
cisco       I  59 

Medical    and   Law   Colleges    ..211 

Memorial   Museum    1  56 

Merchants    Exchange    231 

Mill    Valley    283 

Mills    Building    61 

Mills    College    216 

Mining  Bureau    166 

Mint 167 

Minting,    private    171 

Mission   Dolores    145 

Mission  San  Jose    .  .  .323   and  261 
Mission  San  Juan  Bautista...    303 

"Mission"  The 113   and   110 

Missions    of    California    303 

Model  City  Prison    173 

Model  Yacht  Regattas 155 

Money    22 

Monte    Rio    282 

Monterey    301 

Montgomery  Block    136 

Monuments   and   Landmarks    ..131 

Mt.  Diablo    27-331 

Mt.  Diablo  Country    262 

Mt.    Hamilton    and    Lick    Ob- 
servatory     296 

Mt.    Olympus    134 

Mt.    Sutro    99 

Mt.  Tamalpais   275  to  279 

Mountaineering    253 

Mountaineering — See  Sierra 

Club  under  "Clubs" 226 

Muir  Woods 279 

Museum  of  Anthropology    ....  161 
Museum    of    Casts — Berkeley  .  .267 
Museum      of      Vertebrate      Zo- 
ology— Berkeley    267 

Napa    287 

Napa  Valley    286-287 

National   Cemetery    317 

National    Guard    Armory    ....113 
Native     Sons     of     the     Golden 

West    64    and   210 

Netherlands   Route    288 

Newspaper    Square    25-27 


Page  Nos. 

Nob  Hill    16-89 

Northwestern  Pacific  .  .47  and  256 
Nuestra  Senora  de  Guadalupe   102 

Oakland     258 

Ocean  Shore  Railroad 298 

Odd    Fellows    Cemetery    143 

Odd   Fellows  Hall    210 

Old  Cemeteries    139 

"Old  St.  MaryV    93-136 

Olympic    Club    224 

Ostrich    Farm    98 

Pacific  Gas  and  Electric  Map.    62 

Pacific  Grove    302 

Pacific   Heights    108 

Pacific   Railroad    14 

Palmdale    261 

Panama- Pacific     International 

Exposition     28-177 

Panama-Pacific  Site 105 

Park,   Golden   Gate    149 

Pebble    Beach     322 

Peck-Judah  Co.   Inc 46 

Pescadero     322 

Petaluma    281 

Petrified  Forest    326  and  286 

Photography — See    "Clubs"     .  .227 

Piedmont    261 

Piedmont    Art    Gallery     264 

Point    Bonita    28-274 

Point    Lobos    28 

Polo    250 

Population      17 

Portals  of   the   Past    1 54 

Portsmouth   Square    10-173 

Position    18 

Post  Office 171 

Potrero     25 

Prayer    Book   Cross    1  54 

Presidio    106 

Presidio    Terrace    318 

Press 199  to  203 

Private   Minting    171 

Produce  District    88 

Pullman    270 

Pumping  Station  No.   1  .84  and  109 

Railroad   Offices    46 

Raymond  and  Whilcomb  ...  46 
Reservoir  on  Twin  Peaks  ....  100 
Restaurants,  Cafes  and  Grills.  .    50 


Page   Nos. 

Richmond     269 

Rifle    and    Revolver   Shooting.  .252 

Rincon  Hill 114 

Rincon    Point    85 

River   Boats    254   to   257 

Robertson's  Book  Store   198  and  62 

Ross    283 

Rowing     246 

Russian   Hill    90 

Russian  River    282 

Sacramento    290 

Sacramento  River — 

Netherlands  Route   ..288  to  291 

St.    Helena    287 

St.    Mary's    College 218 

San    Anselmo    282 

San    Francisco — the  name    ....    10 

San    Francisco    Bay    18 

San   Jose    294 

San  Juan    305 

San  Leandro    26S 

San  Mateo Ill 

San   Rafael    280 

Santa  Clara 295 

Santa  Clara  Valley    294 

Santa   Cruz    299 

Santa  Rosa    281 

Santa  Rosa  and   Burbank's  Ex- 
perimental Farm   281 

Saratoga     295 

Sausalito 270 

School  of   Design    160 

Schools     21  1 

Scottish    Rite    Temple    210 

Seal    Rocks 98 

Seventeen    Mile    Drive    303 

Sierra  Club    226 

Sierra    Nevada    253 

Sightseeing  Automobile  Cars    ..131 

Six    Companies    76 

Sonoma 283 

Sonoma  County 280 

Southern   Pacific   Co 46 

Sports    233   to  253 

Spreckels  Beet  Sugar  Refinery  332 

Spreckels  Lake    155 

Stadium    155 

Standard   Oil    Building    ^    61 

Stanford    University    i214 

State   Flower — Eschscholtzia 

Californica 184 


Page   Nos. 
Statistics      of      California — See 
California  Development 

Board 165 

Steamship   Lines   of   San    Fran- 
cisco     222 

Stevenson   Monument    135 

Stock   Exchange    60 

Stockton   293 

Stow  Lake I  54 

Street  Railway  Trips    91 

Street  Railways  and  Routes  91  &337 
Summer   School — Berkeley    ...213 

Superior   Court    1 73 

Sutro    Baths     48  and  97 

Sutro  Gardens 95 

Sutro    Museum    97 

Sutter's   Fort    291 

Tahoe,  L  ake    312 

Tamalpais    24 

Tanforan   Ill 

Taxicab  Rates 336 

Telegraph    Hill    25-87 

Telegraph  Offices    221 

Temple  of  Quan  Dai 77 

Temple   of   Queen   of   Heaven      74 

Tennis    248 

Tetrazzini    Tablet     133 

Tivoli   Opera   House.  .  .64  and  128 

Theaters 127  to  130 

Third  and  Townsend  Depot    .  .  109 

Ticket  Offices 46 

Tomales  Bay 282 

Tomb  of  Thomas  Starr  King.  .  127 

Tourist  Agencies 46 

Track   and    Field    242 

Transport   Docks    28-29- 1 8S 

Trap    Shooting    252 

Triangle  Trip    280 


Page   Nos. 

1  rotting   Races    251 

Turkish    Baths    48 

Turn    Verein     228 

Twin    Peaks    319 

Union    Iron    Works    109 

Union    Square     62 

U.  S.  Mint  167 

U.    S.    Sub-treasury    61 

University  of  California  .  .212-265 
University  of  St.  Ignatius  ....217 
University  of  Santa  Clara   ...  .218 

Validating   Tickets    46 

Vallejo     286 

Vessel  Movements 47 

Vigilance  Committee II 

Violet    Fields    at    Coima    321 

Water  Front    84 

Water  Temple  at  Sunol 328 

Western    Pacific    47 

What  Cheer  House    142 

What  To  Eat   50 

Wholesale    Flower   Market    ...182 

Winehaven 270 

Wishbone  Route 322 

Woman's   Occidental    Board   of 

Foreign    Missions    76 

V.'oodward's  Garden; 142 

Yachting     243 

Yerba    Buena    7 

Yerba   Buena   Cove    131 

Yerba    Buena    Island    24 

Yosemite    Valley     306 

Y.  M.  C.  A 210 

Y.  M.  1 210 

Y.  W.  C.  A 210 


Press  of 

Phillips  &  Van  Orden  Co. 

San  Francisco 


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